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®l|r  ®.  i.  Bill  IGtbrarg 


5s"ortl|  (£arolina  ^tate  Inineraity 


Z.  SMITH  REYNOLDS 
FOUNDATION 

COLLECTION  IN 
SCIENCE  AND  TECHNOLOGY 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 

DESK. 

JUN2  7  1994 

'■t       9  1996 

OCT  2  4  \m 

OCT  1 6  1994 

J/.H  2  4  1995 

MAY  1  1  1995 

AUG  2  1  1995^ 

MOV  29  19951 

"''<  2  0  ,99^ 

^M    2  m 

Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2009  witii  funding  from 

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littp://www.arcli  ive.org/details/everyladylierownOOjolin 


EVEKY   LADY 


(^^r  @ii^ii  ^^k«it  (^mUtm. 


ADDRESSED    TO    THE 


INDUSTRIOUS  AND  ECONOMICAL. 

CONTAINIXO 

SIMPLE  AND  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS 

CULTIVATING  PLANTS  AND  FLOWERS 

IN  THE  GARDEN  AND  IN  ROOMS. 

BY  LOUISA  JOHNSON. 

Eevised  from  the  Fourteenth  London  Edition,  and  Adapted  to  tho 
USE  OF  AMERICAN  LADIES. 


NEW  YORK: 
C.    M.    SAX  TON   AND     COMPANY, 

AGRICULTURAL    BOOK    PUBLISHERS, 

No.  110  Fulton  Street. 

1851. 


KntereJ  accordiRff  to  act  ol'  Congress,  in  tae  year  18.j'2,  by 

c.  M.  SArroK, 

in  th*  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  ^oulhero 
District  of  Naw  York. 


m 


•HJ- 


PUBLISHER'S  ADVERTISEMENT 


The  Publisher,  having  found  the  want  of  small,  cheap  Books,  of 
acknowledged  merit,  on  the  great  topics  of  farming  oconomy,  and 
meeting  for  those  of  such  a  class  a  constant  demand,  offers,  in  his 
Ivural  HandV^ks,  of  which  this  is  one,  works  calculated  to  fill  the 
void. 

He  trusts  that  a  discerning  Public  will  both  buy  and  read  these 
little  I'reatises,  so  admirably  adapted  to  all  classes,  and  fitted  by 
their  size  for  the  pocket,  and  thus  reada,ble  at  the  fireside,  on  the 
road,  and  in  short  everywhere. 

C.  M.  SAXTON, 

AgiicihUural  Book  Publisher, 


I  HAVE  been  induced  to  compile  this  little  work  from  hearing  many  of  vif 
companions  regret  that  no  single  book  contained  a  sufficiently  condensed  and 
general  account  of  the  business  of  a  Flower  Garden.  ''  We  require,"  they 
said,  "a  work  in  a  small  compass,  which  will  enable  us  to  become  our  own 
gardener;  we  wish  to  know  how  to  set  about  everything  ourselves,  without 
expense,  without  being  deluged  with  Latin  words  and  technical  terms,  and 
without  being  obliged  to  pick  our  way  through  multiplied  publications,  re- 
dolent of  descriptions,  and  not  always  particularly  lucid.  We  require  a 
practical  work,  telling  us  of  useful  flowers,  simple  modes  of  rearing  them, 
simply  expressed,  and  free  from  lists  of  plants  and  roots  which  require  ex- 
pensive methods  of  preservation.  Some  of  us  have  gardens,  but  we  cannot 
afford  a  gardener ;  we  like  flowers,  but  we  cannot  attempt  to  take  more 
than  common  pains  to  raise  them.  We  require  to  know  the  hardiest  flowers, 
and  to  comprehend  the  general  business  of  the  garden,  undisturbed  by  fear 
of  failure,  and  at  the  most  economical  scale  of  expense.  Who  will  write  ua 
such  a  book  t " 


n  PREFACE. 

I  have  endeavored  to  meet  their  views  ;  and  my  plan  of  Floriculture  may 
be  carried  into  effect  by  any  lady  who  can  command  the  services  of  an  old 
man,  a  woman,  or  a  stout  boy.  In  the  present  Edition,  the  publishers  have 
added  a  paper  on  Window  Gardening,  written  by  Mr.  M'Intosh — and 
another  on  Domestic  Greenhouses,  an  apparatus  by  which  a  small  collec- 
tion of  exotics  may  be  given  in  great  perfection,  and  by  a  process  which 
any  lady  may  superintend  with  much  gratification.  In  every  other  respect 
the  work  is  the  result  of  my  own  experience,  and  I  dedicate  it  to  all  of  rr  y 
own  sex  who  delight  in  flowers,  and  yet  cannot  allow  themselves  tc  enter 
u»to  great  expense  in  their  cultivation. 

LOUISA  JOHNSON. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  1. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Pleasures  of  Gardening — How  conducive  to  health — Early  taste  for 
Gardening  in  England — Pleasure-gardens  at  fhcobalds — Garden- 
ins;  for  Ladies 0 

CHAPTER  II. 

GENERAI    1EJIARKS. 

Situation  for  a  Flower-garden — On  improving  the  Soil — Aspect  and 
choice  of  Flowers— Monthly  Roses — Rustic  Stages — Garden  Tools 
and  Working  Dress — India-rubber  Shoes  indispensable 13 

CHAPTER  111. 

LAriNG  OUT. 

Arrangement  of  Plants — Root-houses — Annuals — Biennials — Perennials 
— Planting  out  Beds — Amelioration  of  Soils — Monthly  Lists  of 
Flowers — Destructi\e  habits  of  Hares  and  Ral)bits — Snails,  Ear- 
wigs, Mildew  and  Blight — Neatness  and  order  indispensable  in  a 
well-kept  Garden — Spring  Plants — List  of  Perennials 18 

CHAPTER  IV. 

BULBS  AND  FKRENNIALS. 

Transplanting  Bulbs — Advantage  of  Salt  Manures — Best  arrangement 
for  choice  Bulbs — Select  Lists — Fibrous-rooted  Flowers — Biennials 
— Their  Propagation — Protection  necessary 36 

CHAPTER  V 

ANNUALS. 

Sowing  and  gathering  Seed — Training  and  trimming  Plants — List  of 
Annuals 56 


VUl  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  Vr. 

ROSES  A'SD  JASMINES. 

Poetry  of  Flowers-  -Varieties  of  Roses — Pyramids — Climbing  Varieties 
Insec.ts  injurious  to  the  Rose — List  of  Roses — Luxuriant  appearance 
of  the  Jasmine — Devices  for  displaying  its  beauty 63 

CHAPTER  VIL 

SHRUBS  AND  EVERGREENS. 

On  Planting — Distance  between  each — Various  modes  of  Propagating — 

List  of  best  Garden  Sorts — Pruning 69 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

ON  HOUSE  AND  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Plants  proper  for  Window  Culture — Treatment  of  House  Plaiits — Mode 
of  Supply — Bulbs  in  Glasses — Nosegays  and  cut  Flowers — Diseases 
of  Plants 76 

CHAPTER  IX. 

DO.-\IESTIC    GREENHOUSES. 

Form  of  Apparatus — Preparing  the   Soil — Draining — Principles  Cv  the 

Invention — Situation  of  Plants   ...     91 

CHAPTER  X. 

MONTHLY  NOTICES. 

Recapitulation  of  Work  to  be  done  in  each  Month  ...........      ...    .   103 


CADIiLs    SLOWER    GARDENElC 


CHAPTER  I. 


INTRODUCTION. 


tT  has  been  well  remarked  that  a  garden  affords  the  pur«-sl  o{ 
human  pleasures.  The  study  of  Nature  is  interesting  in  all 
her  manifold  combinations :  in  her  wildest  attitudes,  and  in 
her  artful  graces.  The  mind  is  amused,  charmed,  and  astonished 
in  turn,  with  contemplating  her  inexhaustible  display;  and  we  wor- 
ship the  God  who  created  such  pure  and  simple  blessings  for  his 
creatures.  These  blessings  are  open  to  all  degrees  and  conditions 
of  men.  Nature  is  not  a  boon  bestowed  upon  the  high-born,  ut 
purchased  by  the  wealth)^  at  a  kingly  price.  The  poor,  the  blind, 
the  halt,  and  the  diseased,  enjoy  her  beauty,  and  derive  beneiit 
from  her  study.  Every  cottager  enjoys  the  little  garden  which 
furnishes  his  table  with  comforts,  and  his  mind  with  grateful  febl- 
ings,  if  that  mind  is  susceptible  of  religious  impressions.  He 
contemplates  the  gracious  Piovidence  which  has  bestowed  such 
means  of  enjoyment  upon  him,  as  the  Father  whose  all-seeing 
eye  provides  for  the  lowliest  of  his  children ;  and  who  has  placed 
the  "  purest  of  human  pleasures  "  within  the  reach  of  all  whc  are 
not  too  blind  to  behold  his  mercy.  With  this  blessed  view  before 
his  mental  sight,  the  cottager  cultivates  his  little  homestead.  The 
flowers  and  fruits  of  the  earth  bud,  bloom,  and  decay  in  their 
season ;  but  Nature  again  performs  her  deputed  mission,  and 
1* 


10  ladies'  FLo\n!:u  gai!Dk^ek. 

spring  succeeds  the  dreary  winter  with  renewed  beauty  and  two- 
fold increase.  Health  accompanies  simple  and  natural  pleasures. 
The  cultm-e  of  the  ground  affords  a  vast  and  interminable  field  of 
observation,  in  which  the  mind  ranges  with  singular  pleasure, 
though  the  body  travels  not.  It  surrounds  home  with  an  un- 
ceasing interest ;  domestic  scenes  become  endeared  to  the  eye 
and  mind  ;  worldly  cares  recede  ;  and  we  may  truly  say — 

"  For  us  kind  Nature  wakes  her  genial  power, 
Suckles  each  herb,  and  spreads  out  every  flower ! 
Annual  for  us,  the  grape,  the  rose,  renew 
The  juice  iiectariouSj  aud  the  balmy  dew : 
For  us,  the  mixie  a  thousand  treasures  brings; 
For  us,  health  gushes  from  a  thousand  springs." 

Eth.  ep.  i.  ver.  129. 

The  taste  for  gardening  in  England  began  to  display  itself  in 
the  reign  of  Edward  III.,  in  whose  time  the  first  work  on-  the 
subject  was  composed  by  Walter  de  Henly.  Flower-gardening 
followed  slowly  in  its  train.  The  learned  Linacre,  who  died  in 
1524,  introduced  the  damask  rose  from  Italy  into  England.  King 
James  I.  of  Scotland,  when  a  prisoner  in  Windsor  Castle,  thus 
describes  its  "  most  faire  "  gaiden  : — 

"  Now  was  there  maide  fast  by  the  towris  wall, 
A  garden  faire,  and  in  the  corneris  set 

An  herbere  green,  with  wandis  long  and  small 
Railit  aboul,  and  so  with  treeis  set 
Was  all  the  place,  and  hawthorn  hedges  knet, 
That  lyfe  was  now,  walking, there  forbye, 
That  might  within  scarce  any  wight  espie, 

So  thick  the  bowis  and  the  leves  grene 

Bercandit  all,  the  alleyes  all  that  there  were; 

And  myddis  every  herbere  might  be  sene 
The  scharpe  grene  swete  junipere 
Growing  so  fair,  with  branches  h.<re  and  there, 
That,  as  it  seymt  to  a  lyfe  without. 
The  bowis  spred  the  herbere  all  about." 

The  Qiiair. 

Henry  VIII.  ordered  the  formation  of  his  garden  at  Nonsuch 
about  the  year   1509,  and  Leland  says"  it  was  a  "Nonpareil." 


INTRODUCTION.  11 

Hentyner  assures  us  of  its  perfect  beauty,  describing  one  ol  its 
marble  basins  as  being  set  round  with  "  lilac  trees,  which  trees 
bear  no  fruit,  but  only  a  pleasant  smell." 

The  pleasure-gardens  at  Theobalds,  the  seat  of  Lord  Burleigh, 
were  unique,  acording  to  the  report  of  Lyson.  In  it  were  nine 
knots  exquisitely  made,  one  of  which  was  set  forth  in  likeness  of 
the  king's  arms.  "  One  might  walk  two  myle  in  the  walks  before 
Ite  came  to  an  end." 

Queen  Elizabeth  was  extremely  fond  of  flowers,  and  her  taste 
ever  influenced  that  of  her  court.  Gilliflowers,  carnations,  tulips, 
Provence  and  musk  roses,  were  brought  to  England  in  her  reign. 
"William  III.  loved  a  pleasaunce  or  pleasure-garden ;  but  he 
introduced  the  Dutch  fashion  of  laying  them  out,  which  is  still 
horrible  in  our  eyes.  His  Queen  superintended  in  person  all  her 
arrangements  in  the  flower-garden, — an  amusement  particularly 
delightful  to  her.  In  those  days,  "  knottes  and  mazes  "  were  no 
longer  the  pride  of  a  parterre,  with  a  due  allowance  of  "  pleasant 
and  fair  fishponds." 

Queen  Anne  remodeled  the  gardens  at  Kensington,  and  did 
away  with  the  Dutch  inventions.  Hampton  Court  was  also  laid 
out  in  a  more  perfect  state  in  her  reign,  under  the  direction  of 
Wise. 

Since  that  period,  flower-gardening  has  progressed  rapidly ; 
and  the  amusement  of  floriculture  has  become  the  dominant  /as- 
sion  of  the  ladies  of  Great  Britain.  It  is  a  passion  most  blessed 
in  its  efi'ects,  considered  as  an  amusement  or  a  benefit.  Nothing 
humanizes  and  adorns  the  female  mind  more  surely  than  a  taste 
for  ornamental  gardening.  It  compels  the  reason  to  act,  and  the 
judgment  to  observe ;  it  is  favorable  to  meditation  of  the  most 
serious  kind  ;  it  exercises  the  fancy  in  harmless  and  elegant  occu- 
pation, and  braces  the  system  by  its  healthful  tendency.  A 
flower-garden,  to  the  young  and  single  of  my  sex,  acts  upon  the 


12  ladies'  flower  gardexer. 

heart  and  affections  as  a  nursery  acts  upon  the  matronly  feelings. 
It  attaches  them  to  their  home ;  it  throws  a  powerful  charm  over 
the  spot  dedicated  to  such  deeply-interesting  employment ;  and 
it  lures  them  from  dwelling  too  deeply  upon  the  unavoidable  dis- 
appointments and  trials  of  life,  which  sooner  or  later  disturb  and 
disquiet  the  heart. 

An  amusement  which  kings  and  princes  have  stamped  with 
dignity,  and  which  has  afforded  them  recreation  under  the  toils 
of  government,  must  become  for  ever  venerated,  and  will  bo 
sought  for  by  every  elegant  as  well  as  by  every  scientific  mind. 
Floriculture  ranges  itself  under  the  head  of  female  accomplish- 
ments in  these  our  days ;  and  we  turn  with  pity  from  the  spirit 
which  will  not  find  in  her  "garden  of  roses"  the  simplest  and 
purest  of  pleasures. 


GENEKAL   REMARKS.  13 


CHAPTER  II. 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


tN"  the  laying  out  of  a  garden,  the  soil  and  situation  must  be 
considered  as  much  as  the  nature  of  the  ground  will  admit. 
Let  no  lady,  however,  despair  of  being  able  to  raise  fine  flow- 
ers upon  any  soil,  providing  the  sun  is  not  too  much  excluded,  for 
the  rays  of  the  sun  are  the  vital  principle  of  existence  to  all  vege- 
tation. The  too  powerful  rays  can  be  warded  off  by  the  arts  of  in- 
vention, but  we  have  yet  no  substitute  for  that  glorious  orb.  Unless 
its  warm  and  forcing  influence  is  allowed  to  extend  over  the  surface 
of  the  garden,  all  flowers  wither,  languish,  and  die.  Sun  and  air 
are  the  lungs  and  heart  of  flowers.  A  lady  will  be  rewarded  for 
her  trouble  in  making  her  parterre  in  the  country ;  but  in  large 
towns,  under  the  influence  of  coal  smoke,  shade,  and  gloom,  her 
lot  will  be  constant  disappointment.  She  can  only  hope  to  keep 
a  few  consumptive  geraniums  languishing  through  the  summer 
months,  to  die  in  October,  and  show  the  desolating  view  of  rows 
of  pots  containing  blackened  and  dusty  stems. 

Many  soils  which  are  harsh  or  arid,  are  susceptible  of  improve- 
ment by  a  Uttle  pains.  Thus,  a  stiff"  clay,  by  digging  well  and 
leaving  it  to  become  pulverized  by  the  action  of  the  frost,  and 
then  mixing  plenty  of  ashes  with  it,  becomes  a  fine  mould,  which 
1  have  ever  found  most  excellent  for  all  flowers  of  the  hardier 
kind.  The  black  soil  is  the  richest  in  itself,  and  requires  no  assist- 
ance beyond  changing  it  about  a  foot  in  depth  every  three  years, 
as  a  flower  garden  requires  renewing,  if  a  lady  expects  a  succes- 


14  LAi)]K.s'    li.OWKR    GARDENER. 

sion  of  handsome  fiowei-s.  The  ground  should  be  well  dug  ths 
latter  end  of  September  or  October,  or  even  in  November,  and  if 
the  soil  is  not  sutHcientlj  fine,  let  it  be  dug  over  a  second  or  third 
time,  and  neatly  raked  with  a  very  fine-toothed  vake. 

Stony  ground  requires  riddling  well,  and  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  keep  it  neat  by  picking  up  the  little  stones  which  con- 
stantly force  themselves  to  the  surface  after  rains.  Nothing  is  so 
unbecoming  as  weeds  and  stones  in  parterres,  where  the  eye  seeks 
flowers  and  neatness. 

Almost  every  plan*  loves  sand  ;  and  if  that  can  be  procured,  it 
eniiches  and  nourishes  the  soil,  especially  for  bulbs,  pinks,  carna- 
tions, aui'iculas,  hyacinths,  &c.  Let  it  be  mixed  in  the  proportion 
of  a  third  pai't  to  the  whole. 

If  the  dead  leaves  are  swept  into  a  mound  every  autumn,  raid 
the  soap  suds,  brine,  &c.,  of  the  house  be  thrown  upon  it,  the 
mass  will  quickly  decompose,  and  become  available  the  following 
year.  It  makes  an  admirable  compost  for  auriculas,  &c.,  mixed 
with  garden  or  other  mould. 

If  the  ground  be  a  gravelly  soil,  the  flower-garden  should  not 
slope,  for  stony  ground  requires  all  the  moisture  you  can  give  it, 
while  the  sloping  situation  would  increase  the  heat  and  dryness. 
A  moist  earth,  on  the  contrary,  would  be  improved  by  being 
sloped  towards  the  east  or  west. 

The  south  is  not  so  proper  for  flowers,  as  a  glaring  sun  withers 
the  tender  flowers  ;  but  the  north  must  be  carefully  avoided,  and 
shut  out  by  a  laurel  hedge,  a  wall,  or  any  rural  fence  garnitlied 
with  hardy  creepers,  or  monthly  roses,  which  make  a  gay  and 
agreeable  defense.  Monthly  roses  are  invaluable  as  auxiUaiies  of 
all  kinds.  They  will  grow  in  any  soil,  and  bloom  through  tlie 
winter  months,  always  giving  a  delicate  fragrance,  and  smiling 
Gven  in  the  snow.  Monthly  roses  will  ever  be  the  floiist's  de- 
light :   they  are  the  hardiest,  most  delicate-looking,  and  greenest- 


GEJsERAL    KEMAIIKS.  16 

leaved  of  garden  productions  ;  they  give  no  t.  uble,  And  speedily 
form  a  beautiful  screen  against  any  oftViisive  object.  iNo  flowei; 
garden  should  exist  without-  abundance  of  monthly  roses. 

It  has  often '  been  a  disputed  point  whether  flower  gardens 
should  be  intersected  witli  gravel  walks  or  with  gi-ass  plots. 
This  must  be  left  entirely  to  the  taste  and  means  of  the  part)' 
fojming  a  garden.  Lawn  is  as  wet  and  melancholy  in  the  winter 
months,  as  it  is  beautiful  and  desirable  in  summer;  and  it  requires 
o-reat  care  and  attention  in  mowing  and  rolhng,  and  trimming 
round  the  border.  Gravel  walks  have  this- advantage  :  the  first 
trouble  is  the  last.  They  will  only  require  an  old  woman's  or  a 
child's  assistance  in  keeping  them  free  from  weeds  ;  and  a  lady 
has  not  the  same  fears  of  taking  cold,  or  getting  wet  in  her  feet, 
duiing  the  rains  of  autumn  and  spring. 

Many  females  are  unequal  to  the  fatigaie  of  bending  down  to 
flowers,  and  particularly  object  to  the  stooping  posture.  In  this 
case,  ingenuilv  alone  is  required  to  raise  the  flowers  to  a  conve- 
nient height ;  and,  by  so  doing,  to  inci-ease  the  beauty  and  pic- 
turesque appearance  of  the  garden.  Old  barrels  cut  in  half,  tubs, 
pails,  (tc,  neatly  painted  outside,  or  adorned  with  rural  orna- 
ments, and  raised  upon  feet  neatly  carved,  or  mounds  of  earth, 
stand  in  lieu  of  richer  materials,  such  as  vases,  parapet  walls,  and 
other  expensive  devices,  which  ornament  the  gardens  of  the 
wealthy.  I  have  seen  these  humble  materials  shaped  into  forms 
as  pleading  to  the  eye,  and  even  more  consonant  to  our  damp 
climate,  than  marble  vases.  They  never  look  green  from  time, 
and  are  renewed  at  a  very  trifling  expense.  A  few  pounds  of 
nails,  and  the  unbarked  thinnings  from  fir  plantations,  are  tiie 
sole  requisites  towards  forming  any  device  which  a  tasteful  fancy 
can  dictate  ;  and  a  little  green  paint  adds  beauty  and  durability 
when  the  bark  falls  from  the  wood  it  protects.  I  have  seen  fir 
balls  nailed  on  to  these  forn  s  in  tasteful  patterns ;  and  creepers 


16  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

being  allowed  to  fall  gracefully  over  the  brims,  give  a  remark- 
ably pleasing  and  varied  appearance  to  the  parterre. 

Where  mould  is  not  easily  to  be  procured — as,  for  instance,  in 
towns — the  tubs  or  receptacles  may  be  half  filled  with  any  kind 
)f  rubble,  only  space  must  be  left  to  allow  of  two  feet  of  fine 
nould  at  the  top,  which  is  quite  sufficient  for  bulbous  roots, 
reepers,  &c.  These  receptacles  have  one  powerful  advantage 
ever  ground  plots  ;  they  can  be  moved  under  sheds,  or  into  out- 
houses, d  uring  the  heavy  rains  or  frosts  of  winter ;  and  thereby 
finable  a  lady  to  preserve  the  more  delicate  flowers,  which  would 
deteriorate  by  constant  exposure  to  inclement  weather. 

A  lady  requires  peculiar  tools  for  her  light  work.  She  should 
possess  a  light  spade ;  two  rakes,  one  with  very  fine  teeth,  and 
the  other  a  size  larger,  for  cleaning  the  walks  when  they  are 
raked,  and  It-r  raking  the  larger  stones  from  the  garden  borders. 
A  light  garden  fork  is  very  necessary  to  take  up  bulbous  or  other 
roots  with,  as  the  spade  would  wound  and  injure  them,  whereas 
they  pass  safely  through  the  interstices  of  the  fork  or  prong.  A 
watering-pot  is  indispensable,  and  a  hoe.  Two  trowels  are  like- 
wise necessary  ;  one  should  be  a  tolerable  size,  to  transplant  pe- 
rennial and  biennial  flower  roots  ;  the  other  should  be  pointed 
and  small,  to  transplant  the  more  delicate  roots  of  anemones, 
bulbs,  &c. 

The  pruning-knife  must  be  always  sharp,  and,  in  shape,  't 
should  bend  a  little  inwards,  to  facilitate  cutting  away  straggling 
or  dead  shoots,  branches,  &c.  The  "  avroncator,"  lately  so  much 
in  request,  is  an  admirable  instrument ;  but  it  is  expensive,  and 
of  most  importance  in  shrubberies,  where  heavy  branches  are  to 
be  cut  awr.y.  The  Sieur  Louis  d'Auxerre,  who  wrote  a  work 
upon  gardening  in  1*706,  has  a  sketch  of  the  avroncator  of  the 
present  day,  which  he  designates  as  caterpillar  shears. 

A  light  pair  of  shears,  kept  always  in  good  order,  is  necessarr 


GENEJiAL  REMAllHb.  17 

to  keep  privet  or  liiurel  hedges  properly  clipped  ;  and  a  stout 
deep  basket  must  be  deposited  in  the  tool-shed,  to  contain  the 
weeds  and  clippings.  These  are  the  only  tools  absolutely  essen- 
tial to  a  lady's  garden.  I  have  seen  a  great  variety  decorating 
the  wall  of  an  amateur  tool-house,  but  they  must  have  been  in- 
tended for  show,  not  for  use.  A  real  artiste,  in  whatever  pro- 
fession she  may  engage,  will  only  encumber  herself  with  essen- 
tials.    All  else  is  superfluous. 

I  have  reserved  two  especially  necessary  recommendations  to  the 
last,  being  comforts  independent  of  the  tool-house.  Every  lady 
should  be  furnished  with  a  gardening  apron,  composed  of  stout 
Holland,  with  ample  pockets  to  contain  her  pruning-knife,  a  small 
stout  hammer,  a  ball  of  string,  and  a  few  nails  and  snippings  of 
cloth.  Have  nothing  to  do  with  scissors ;  they  are  excellent  in 
the  work-room,  but  dangerous  in  a  flower  garden,  as  they  wrench 
and  wound  the  stems  of  flowers.  The  knife  cuts  slanting, 
which  is  the  proper  way  of  taking  cff  slips ;  and  the  knife  is 
sufficient  for  all  the  purposes  of  a  flower  garden,  even  for  cutting 
string. 

The  second  article  which  I  pronounce  to  be  indispensable  is  a 
pair  of  India  rubber  shoes,  or  the  wooden  high -heeled  shoes 
called  "  sabots  "  by  the  French.  In  these  protections,  a  lady 
may  indulge  her  passion  for  flowers  at  all  seasons,  without  risk 
of  rheumatism  or  chills,  providing  it  does  not  actually  rain  or 
snow :  and  the  cheering  influence  of  the  fresh  air,  combined  with 
a  favorite  amusement,  must  ever  operate  beneficially  on  the  nsind 
and  body  in  every  season  of  the  year. 


18  ladies'  flower  gardeneb. 


CHAPTER,  ni. 


ON    LAYING    OUT. 


iHERE  are  many  modes  of  adDrning  a  small  piece  of  ground, 
50  as  to  contain  gay  flowers  and  plants,  and  appear  double  its 
real  size.  By  covering  every  wall  or  palisade  with  monthly 
roses  and  creepers  of  every  kind,  no  space  is  lost,  and  unsiglitly  ob- 
jects even  contribute  to  the  general  effect  of  a  "Plaisaunce."  The 
larger  flowers,  such  as  hollyhocks,  sunflowers,  &c.,  look  to  the 
best  advantage  as  a  back  ground,  either  planted  in  clumps,  or 
arranged  singly.  Scarlet  lychnis,  campanula,  or  any  second- 
sized  flowers,  may  range  themselves  below,  and  so  in  graduated 
order,  till  the  eye  reposes  upon  a  foreground  of  pansies,  auriculas, 
polyanthuses,  and  innumerable  humbler  beauties.  Thus  all  are 
seen  in  their  order,  and  present  a  mass  of  superb  coloring  to  the 
observer,  none  interfering  with  the  other.  The  hollyhock  does 
not  shroud  the  lowly  pansy  from  displaying  its  bright  tints  of  yel- 
low and  purple  ;  neither  can  the  sturdy  and  gaudy  sunflower  hide 
the  modest  double  violet  or  smartly  clad  anemone  from  observa- 
tion. Each  flower  is  by  this  mode  of  planting  distinctly  seen, 
and  each  contributes  its  beauty  and  its  scent,  by  receiving  the 
beams  of  the  sun  in  equal  proportions. 

If  the  trunk  of  a  tree  stands  tolerably  free  from  deep  over- 
shadowing branches,  twine  the  creeping  rose,  the  late  honey- 
suckle, or  the  everlasting  pea  round  its  stem,  that  every  inch  of 
ground  may  become  available.  The  tall  naked  stem  of  the 
young   ash  looks  well  festooned  with  roses  and  honeysuckles. 


ON   LAYING   OCT.  19 

Wherever  creeping  flowering  plants  can  live,  let  them  adcrn  every 
nook  and  corner,  stem,  wall,  and  post;  they  are  elegant  in  ap- 
pearance, and  many  of  them,  particularly  clematis,  are  delicious 
in  fragrant  scent. 

If  flowers  are  planted  in  round  or  square  plots,  the  same  rul'. 
applies  in  arranging  them.  The  tallest  must  be  placed  in  thi 
center,  but  I  recommend  a  lady  to  banish  sunflowers  and  holly 
hocks  from  her  plots,  and  consign  them  to  broad  borders  agains^'. 
a  wall,  or  in  clumps  of  three  and  three,  as  a  screen  against  the 
north,  or  against  any  unsightly  object.  Their  large  roots  draw 
so  much  nourishment  from  the  ground,  that  the  lesser  plants  suf- 
fer, and  the  soil  becomes  quickly  exhausted.  Like  gluttons,  they 
should  feed  alone,  or  their  companions  will  languish  in  starvation, 
and  become  impoveiished.  The  wren  cannot  feed  with  the  vul- 
ture. 

The  south  end  or  corner  of  a  moderate  flower  garden  should 
be  fixed  upon  for  the  erection  of  a  root  house,  which  is  not  an 
expensive  undertaking,  and  which  forms  a  picturesque  as  well  as 
a  most  useful  appendage  to  a  lady's  parterre.  Thinnings  of 
plantations,  which  are  everywhere  procured  at  a  very  moderate 
charge,  rudely  shaped  and  nailed  into  any  fancied  fihrm,  may 
supply  all  that  is  needful  to  the  little  inclosure  ;  and  a  thatch  of 
straw,  rushes,  or  heather,  will  prove  a  sure  defense  to  the  roof 
and  back.  There,  a  lady  may  display  her  taste  by  the  beauty  of 
the  flowers  which  she  may  train  through  the  rural  fraa^e-work. 
There,  the  moss-rose,  the  jessamine,  the  honeysuckle,  the  convol- 
vulus, and  many  other  bright  and  beautiful  flowers,  may  escape 
and  cluster  around  her,  as  she  receives  rest  and  shelter  within 
their  graceful  lattice-work.  There,  also,  may  be  deposited  the 
implements  of  her  vocation ;  and  during  the  severe  weather,  its 
warm  precincts  will  protect  the  finer  kinds  of  carnations,  puiks. 


20  LADIES'    FLOW  Ell   GARDENER. 

auricuiat",  &c.,  which  do  not  bear  the  heavy  rains,  or  frosts  of 
lengthened  duration,  without  injuring  the  plant. 

Flowers  are  divided  into  three  classes : — annuals,  biennials, 
and  perennials. 

Annuals  are  those  flowers  which  are  raised  from  seeds  alone,  in 
the  spring,  and  which  die  in  the  autumn.  They  are  again  divi- 
ded into  three  classes  : — the  tender  and  more  curious  kinds  ;  the 
less  tender  or  hardier  kinds  ;  and  the  hardiest  and  common  kinds. 

Biennials  are  those  flowers  which  are  produced  by  seed,  bloom 
the  second  year,  and  remain  two  years  in  perfection,  after  whicli 
they  gradually  dwindle  and  die  away. 

Some  sorts,  however,  of  the  biennials,  afi"ord  a  continuation  of 
plants  by  offsets,  slips,  and  cuttings  of  the  tops,  and  by  layers 
and  pipings,  so  that,  though  the  parent  flower  dies,  tlie  species 
are  perpetuated,  particularly  to  continue  curious  double-flowered, 
kinds,  as  for  instance,  double  rockets,  by  root  offsets,  and  cuttings 
of  the  young  flower-stalks ;  double  wallflowers  by  slips  of  the 
small  top  shoots  ;  double  sweet-williams  by  layers  and  pipings ; 
and  carnations  by  layers. 

Perennials  are  those  flowers  which  continue  many  years,  and 
are  pi-opagated  by  root  offsets,  suckers,  parting  roots,  &c.,  as 
will  be  more  fully  particulaiised  under  the  head  of  Perennials. 

It  has  been  a  debated  point  among  florists  whether  plots  or 
baskets  should  be  devoted  each  to  a  particular  variety  of  flower, 
or  receive  flowers  of  different  kinds,  flowering  at  separate  seasons. 
Thus,  many  ladies  set  apart  one  plot  of  ground  for  anemones  only 
— another  plot  receives  only  pansies,  and  so  on.  There  is  much 
to  be  said  on  both  sides  the  question. 

If  a  plot  of  ground  is  devoted  to  one  variety  of  flower  only, 
you  can  give  it  the  appropriate  mould,  and  amuse  your  eye  with 
its  expanse  of  bright  coloring.  Nothing  is  more  beautiful  than 
a  bed  of  pxnsies,  or  a  bed  of  the  bright  and  glowing  scarlet  ver- 


ON   LAYING   OUT.  21 

bina ;  nothing  can  exceed  the  gay  and  flaunty  '.ints  of  a  b&tlE  of 
tuHps,  or  the  rich  hues  of  the  lilac  and  the  white  petunia.  A 
large  space  of  garden  allows  its  possessor  to  revel  in  separate 
beds  of  flowers,  whose  beauty  is  increased  twofold  by  masses ; 
and  from  that  very  space,  the  eye  does  not  so.  easily  discover  the 
melancholy  appearance  of  one  or  more  plots  exhibiting  nothing 
but  dark  mould,  and  withered  stems,  arising  from  the  earlier 
sorts  being  out  of  bloom. 

But  in  less  spacious  gardens,  this  gloomy  and  mournful  vacuum 
must  be  avoided.  Every  border  and  plot  of  ground  should  ex- 
hibit a  gay  succession  of  flowers  in  bloom  ;  and  that  object  can 
only  be  effected  by  a  pretty  equal  distribution  of  flowers  of  early 
and  late  growth.  As  the  May  flowers  droop,  the  June  produc- 
tions supply  their  place  ;  and  these,  again,  are  followed  in  succes- 
sion, till  the  Golden  rod  and  Michaelmas  day  daisy  announce  the 
decadence  of  the  parterre  for  the  year. 

Yet  everj?-  flower  may  be  supplied  with  its  favorite  soil  with  a 
little  patience  and  observation.  A  light  soil  suits  all  descriptions 
very  well ;  and  I  never  yet  found  disappointment  in  any  descrip- 
tion of  earth  which  was  thoroughly  well  dug,  and  dressed  yearly 
from  the  mound  of  accumulated  leaves  and  soap-suds,  alluded  to 
in  the  first  chapter.  I  particularly  recommend  a  portion  of  sand 
mixed  with  the  heap.  All  bulbs,  carnations,  pinks,  auriculas, 
ranunculuses,  &c.,  love  a  mixture  of  sand.  I  know  no  flowers  of 
the  hardy  class  which  reject  it.  Mix  sand  well  into  your  borders 
and  plots,  and  you  will  not  fail  to  have  handsome  flowers. 

I  subjoin  a  list  of  common  flowers  appertaining  to  each  month, 
in  order  to  fill  the  borders  with  one  or  more  roots  of  each 
variety.     I  do  not  ir  elude  the  annuals. 


22 


LADIES    FLOWER   GARDENER. 


JANUARY. 

In  this  month  the  following  flowers  are  in  blow  :— 


Single  Anemones 
Winter  Cyclamens 
Michaelmas  Daisy 
Hepaticas 


Primroses 
Winter  Hyacinth 
Narcissus  of  the  Kasx 
Christmas  Rose 


Single  Anemones 
Forward  Anemones 
Persian  Iris 
Spring  Crocus 


rEBRUARY. 

I  Single  Yellow  Gilliflowcr 

I  Single  Liverwort 

I  Winter  Aconite 

I  Ilepatii-as 


Bulbous  Iris 
Anemones  of  all  soits 
Spring  Cyclamens 
Liverwort  of  all  sorl.s 
Daffodils 
Crowfoots 
Spring  Crocus 


JIAKCH. 

I     Hyaciiiilis  of  all  sorts 

Jonquils 

Yellow  Giliiilower 
j     Narcissus  of  several  kinds 
I     Forward  Bears'-eara 
I     Forward  Tulips 
I     Single  Primroses  of  iivere  rv  ors 


Daisies 

Yellow  Gillitlowers 
Narcissus  of  all  sorts 
Forward  Bears'-ear 
Spring  Cj^clamens 
Crocus,    otherwise     c.i 

flowers 
Anemones  of  all  sorts 
Iris 

Pansies 
Daflbdils 


lied     SiifTron- 


Double  Liverworts 

Primroses 

Honeysuckles 

Tulips 

Hyacinths 

Single  Jonquils 

Crown- Imperial 

Yellow    GjllitioM  ers, 

single 
Pasque-Fiowors 
March  Violets 


double     ind 


Anemones 

Gilliflowers  of  all  sorts 

Yellow  Gilliflowers 

Columbines 

Asphodils 

Orange,  or  flame-colored  Lilies 

Double  Jacea,  a  sort  of  Lychnis 

Cyanuses  of  all  sorts 

Hyacinths 

Day  Lilies 

Bastard  Dittarv 

Daisies 

Lily  of  th*  ^-'alley 


Mountain  Pinks 

Pansies 

I'eonies  of  all  sorts 

Ranunculuses  of  all  sorts 

Some    Irises  :  as  those  which   we 

call    the    Bulbous    Iris,  and    the 

C  ha  map- Iris 
Italian    Spiderwort,   a  sort  of  As- 

phodil 
Poet's  Pinks 
Backward  Tulips 
Julians,   otherwise   (ailed    English 

Gilliflowers 


ON    LAYING    OUT, 


28 


Snap-draj^ons  ol  all  sorts 

Wild  Tansies 

Pinks,  otherwise  caUed  Lychnises 

Irises 

Roses 

Tuberoses 

Pansies 

Larkspur 

Great  Daisies 


Climbers 

Cyanuses  of  all  sorts 

Foxgloves  of  all  sorts 

Mountain  Lilies 

GilliHowers  of  all  sort* 

Monk's-hoods 

Pinks  of  all  sorts 

Candy-tufts 

Poppies 


Tessamine 

Spanish  Brown 

Basils 

Bell-flowers 

Indian  Jacea 

Great  Daisies 

Monk's-hoods 

Pinks 

Scabiuses 

Nigellas 

Cyclamens 

Lobel's  Catch-liies 

Lilies  of  all  sorts 

Apples  of  Love 

Comfrey 

Poppies 

Snap-dragons 

Double  Marigolds 

Amaranthuses 

Hellebore 

Ox-eyes 


Pinks  of  the  Poets 

Bee-flowers 

Sea-hollies 

Foxgloves 

Vv'^ild  Poppies 

Everlastings 

Roses 

Ditta!:ies 

Bindweeds 

Lilies  of  St.  Bruno 

Tricolors 

Squills 

Motherworts 

Climbers 

Oculus  Christ! 

Camomile 

Sunflowers 

Belvederes 

Gilliflowers  of  all  soru 

Thorn-apple 

Valerian 


Oculus  Christi,  otherwise  called 

Starwort 
Belvederes 
Climbers  of  all  sorts 
Apples  of  Love 
Marvels  of  Peru 
Pansies 
Ranunculuses 
Double  Marigolds 
Candy-tufts 
Autumn  Cyclamens 
Jessamines 

Sunflowers,  vivacious  and  annual 
Indian  Narcissus 


Foxgloves 

Cyclamens 

Pas^sion  flov,ers 

Everlastings 

Tuberoses 

Monk's-hood 

Indian  Pinks  of  all  kinds 

Bindweed 

Passvelours 

Great  Daisies 

White  Bell-flower 

Autumnal  Meadow  SafFrofi 

Gilliflowers 


24 


LADBES'   FLOWER   GARDENER. 


SEPTEMBER. 


Tricolors 

Love-apples 
Marvel  of  Peru 
Monk's-hood 
Narcissus  of  Portugal 
Snap-dragons 
Oculus  Christi 
Basils 
Belvederes 
Great  Daisies  * 
Double  Marigolds 
Monthly  Roses 
Tuberoses 


Amaryllis 

Autumnal  Narcisrua 

White  Bell-flowers 

Indian  Pinks 

Indian  Roses 

Amaranthus 

Pansies 

Passion-flower 

Autumnal  Crocus 

Thoi'n-apple 

Carnations 

Ranunculuses  planted  in  May 

Colchicums 


Tricolors 
Oculus  Christi 
Snap-dragons 
Colchicums 
Autumn  Crocus 
Autumnal  Cyclamens 
Monk's-hood 
Indian  Pinks 


Pansies  that  were  sown  in  Auguil 

Passion-flower 

Passvelours 

Double  Marigolds 

Some  Pinks 

Amaryllis 

Autumnal  Narcissus 


NOVEMBER. 


Snap-dragons 

Double  and  Single  Gilliflowers 

Great  Daisies 

Pansies  sown  in  August 

Monthly  Roses 


Double  Violets 
Single  Anemones  of  all  sorts 
Winter  Cyclamens 
Forward  Hellebore 
Golden  Rod 


Rabbits  are  an  intolerable  nuisance  in  a  flower  garden,  and  in 
some  country  places  tbey  abound  most  destructively.  A  light 
wire  fence  about  two  feet  high,  closely  lattice-worked,  or  a  net 
of  the  same  height,  carried  round  the  garden,  is  a  sure  defense 
from  these  marauders.  But  where  these  conveniences  are  unat- 
tainable, there  are  other  modes  which  answer  the  purpose,  but 
they  require  a  little  trouble  and  patience. 

It  is  the  well-known  nature  of  Rabbits  and  Hares  to  dishke 
climbing  or  entangling  their  feet;  and  very  simple  inventions 
deter  them  from   attempting  to  gnaw   the  roots   and  hearts  of 


ON   LAYING   OLT.  25 

flowers.  They  will  not  walk  upon  straw  or  ashes  strewed  thickly 
round  any  plant :  they  equally  dislike  a  fence  of  sticks  placed 
round  a  plot,  with  bits  of  white  paper  or  card  fastened  to  each 
stick ;  or  a  string  carried  round  the  sticks  a  foot  or  two  high. 
If  they  cannot  creep  under  a  slight  fence,  they  never  attempt  to 
leap  over  it.  If  a  stick  is  run  into  the  ground  close  to  a  plant, 
and  other  sticks  are  slanted  from  the  ground  towards  the  center, 
the  plant  will  remain  untouched,  be  the  frost  of  ever  so  long 
duration. 

Snails  are  disagreeable  intruders,  but  the  following  method  is 
an  exterminating  war  of  short  duration  : — - 

Throw  cabbage  leaves  upon  your  borders  over  night ;  in  the 
morning,  early,  you  will  find  them  covered  underneath  with 
snails,  which  have  taken  refuge  there.  Thus  they  are  easily 
taken  and  destroyed. 

Earwigs  are  taken  in  great  numbers  by  hanging  gallipots, 
tubes,  or  any  such  receptacle,  upon  low  sticks  in  the  boi'ders  over 
night.  In  these  they  shelter  themselves,  and  are  consequently 
victimized  in  the  morning.  The  gallipots,  broken  bottles,  &c., 
should  be  placed  upon  the  stick  like  a  man's  hat,  that  the  vermin 
may  ascend  into  them. 

Ants  are  very  great  enemies  to  flowers  ;  but  I  know  no  method 
of  attacking  them,  except  in  their  ov/n  strongholds,  which  I  have 
always  done  with  cruel  intrepidity  and  success.  My  only  plan 
was  to  lay  open  the  little  ant-hill,  and  pour  boiling  water  upon 
the  busy  insects,  which  destroyed  at  once  the  commonwealth, 
and  the  eggs  deposited  within  the  mound.  In  some  places  ants 
are  extremely  large  and  abundant,  and  they  quickly  destroy  the 
beauty  of  a  flower  by  attacking  its  root  and  heart.* 

*  The  Emperor  Pagonatus,  who  wrote  a  treatise  upon  agriculture,  assures 
us,  tliat  to  clear  a  garden  of  ants,  we  should  burn  empty  snail  shells  with 
storax  wood,  and  throw  the  ashes  upon  the  ant-hills,  which  obliges  them  to 
remove.     I  never  tried  this  method. 


26  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

Mildew  and  blight  infest  roses  and  lioney-suckles.  Soap-suda 
thrown  over  rose  bushes ;  heavy  v?aterings  with  tobacco- water, 
or  the  water  in  which  potatoes  have  been  boiled,  is  successful  in 
a  degree,  but  the  best  way  is  a  very  troublesome  one  to  perse- 
vere in.  Pinch  every  leaf  well  which  curls  up,  by  which  you 
may  know  a  small  maggot  is  deposited  therein.  By  so  doing 
you  destroy  the  germ  of  a  thousand  little  monsters. 

Mildew  and  blight  come  from  the  east ;  therefore  honeysuckles 
should  be  sheltered  from  that  aspect ;  for,  as  they  rise  and  spread 
widely,  they  are  not  so  manageable  as  a  rose-bush.  A  mass  ot 
luxuriant  honeysuckles  is  beautiful  to  the  eye  and  delicious  in 
fragrance  :  but  covered  with  mildew,  it  is  a  blackened  and  miser- 
able object.  Mildew,  fortunately,  does  not  make  its  appearance 
every  spring ;  but  once  in  four  or  five  years  it  comes  as  a  plague, 
to  desolate  the  garden.  A  great  deal  may  be  raked  away  it 
taken  off  as  soon  as  it  spreads  its  cobwebs  over  these  lovely 
flowers  ;  but  it  should  be  done  without  dfilay. 

I  cannot  lay  too  great  stress  upon  the  neatness  in  which  a 
lady's  garden  should  be  kept.  If  it  is  not  beautifully  neat,  it  is 
nothing.  For  this  reason,  keep  every  plant  distinct  in  ihe  flower- 
beds ;  let  every  tall  flower  be  well  staked,  that  the  wind  may  not 
blow  it  prostrate  ;  rake  away  dead  leaves  from  the  beds,  and 
trim  every  flower-root  from  discolored  leaves,  weeds,  &c.  ;  re- 
move all  weeds  and  stones  the  moment  they  appear,  and  cleai 
away  decaying  stems,  which  are  so  littering  and  ofi'ensive  to  the 
eye.  There  is  always  some  employment  of  this  kind  for  ever^?- 
week  in  the  year. 

Old  iron  rods,  both  large  and  small,  are  to  be  procured  cheay 
at  the  ironmongers.  These  old  rusty  rods,  painted  green,  or  lead 
color,  are  excellent  stakes  for  supporting  flowers,  and  do  not 
wear  out.  The  slighter  rods  are  very  firm  upiight  supporters 
for  Carnations,  Pinks,  &c.,  while  the   taller  and  larger  rods  are 


ON   LAYING   OUT.  27 

the  firmest  and  best  poles  for  hollyhocks,  sunflowers,  and  the 
larger  class  of  plants.  Fix  the  flower  stem  to  its  stake  with 
string,  or  the  tape  of  the  bass  matting,  soaked  in  water  to  pre- 
vent its  cracking,  and  tie  it  sufficiently  light  to  prevent  the  wind 
tearing  it  from  its  position.  Tie  the  large  stems  in  three  places 
for  security. 

The  term  Deciduous,  applied  to  shrubs,  signifies  that  they 
shed  their  leaves  every  winter. 

Herbaceous  plants,  signify  those  plants  whose  roots  are  not 
woody,  such  as  stocks,  wallflowers,  &c.  <fec. 

Fibrous-rooiQ^L  plants,  are  those  whose  roots  shoot  out  small 
fibers,  such  as  Polyanthuses,  violets,  &c. 

Tuberous-rooie^  plants,  signify  those  roots  which  form  and 
grow  into  little  tubes,  such  as  Anemones,  Ranunculuses,  &c. 


PERENNIALS. 

Perennials  are  flowers  of  many  years'  duration  ;  and  they 
multiply  themselves  most  abundantly  by  suckers,  offsets,  parting 
the  roots,  tkc.  They  require  little  trouble  beyond  taking  care  to 
renew  the  soil  every  year  or  two  by  a  somewhat  plentiful  supply 
from  the  compost  heap ;  and  by  separating  the  ofisets,  and  part- 
ing the  roots  in  autumn,  to  strengthen  the  mother  plant.  Wher. 
the  flowers  are  past  and  the  stems  have  decayed,  then  the  opera- 
tion may  take  place.  Choose  a  showery  day  for  transplanting 
the  roots,  or  give  them  a  moderate  watering  to  fix  them  in  tlieir 
fresh  places.  When  you  transplant  a  flower  root,  dig  a  hole  with 
your  trowel  sufficiently  large  to  give  the  fibers  room  to  lie  freely 
and  evenly  in  the  ground. 

I  have,  throughout  my  little  work,  laid  great  stress  upon  pos- 
sessing a  heap  of  compost,  ready  to  apply  to  roots  and  shrubs 
every  spring  and  autumn.     Wherever  the  soil  is  good  the  flowers 


28  LADIES'     FLOWER    GARDENEK. 

will  bloom  handsomely ;  and  no  lady  will  be  disappointed  of  that 
pleasure,  if  a  compost  heap  forms  one  essential,  in  a  hidden  cor- 
ner of  the  flower  garden.  If  you  raise  your  perennials  from 
seed,  sow  it  in  the  last  week  in  March  in  a  bed  of  light  earth,  in 
the  open  ground.  Let  the  bed  be  in  a  genial,  warm  situation, 
and  divide  it  into  small  compartments ;  a  compartment  for  each 
sort  of  seed. 

Sow  the  seed  thin,  and  rake  or  break  the  earth  over  them  finely. 
Let  the  larger  seed  be  sown  half  an  inch  deep,  and  the  smaller 
seed  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  Water  the  beds  in  dry  weather  often 
with  a  watering  pot,  not  a  jug.  The  rose  of  the  watering  pot 
distributes  the  water  equally  among  the  seedlings ;  whereas, 
water  dashed  upon  them  from  a  jug  falls  in  masses,  and  forms 
holes  in  the  light  earth,  besides  prostrating  the  delicate  seedling. 

About  the  end  of  May,  the  seedlings  will  be  fit  to  remove  into 
another  nursery  bed,  to  gain  strength  till  October ;  or  be  planted 
at  once  where  they  are  to  remain.  Put  the  plants  six  inches 
apart,  and  water  them  moderately,  to  settle  the  earth  about  their 
roots. 

But  it  is  rarely  required  to  sow  seed  for  perennial  plants,— 
they  multiply  so  vigorously  and  quickly  of  themselves,  by  offsets; 
and  cuttings  may  be  made  of  the  flower  stalks  in  May  and  June 
in  profusion. 

The  double  Scarlet  lychnis,  and  those  plants  which  rise  with 
firm  flower  stems,  make  excellent  cuttings,  and  grow  freely  when 
planted  in  moist  weather.  Double  Rockets,  Lychnidea,  and  many 
others,  succeed  well. 

Carnation  and  pink  seedlings  must  be  taken  great  care  of. 
They  will  be  ready  to  plant  out  about  the  middle  of  June,  and  as 
innumerable  var.cties  spring  from  sowing  seed,  they  should  be 
planted  carefully  in  a  bed  by  themselves  six  inches  asunder,  and 
they  will  flower  tlie  following  year,  when  you  can  choose  the 


ON  LAYING   OUT  2^ 

colors  you  u.ost  approve.  Carnaiiuns  pro^..  .rly  rank  undet  the 
head  of  biennials ;  but  pinks  are  strictly  p  n-ennial  plants,  and 
much  has  been  written  upon  this  hardy  and  beautiful  flower.  It 
comes  originally  from  a  temperate  climate,  'therefore  the  pink 
loves  shade  :  the  fervid  sunbeams  cause  its  flowers  to  languish  and 
droop.     You  may  give  them  an  eastern  aspect. 

Be  careful  to  watch  pinks  when  they  are  budding,  and  do  not 
allow  two  buds  to  grow  side  by  side.  Pinch  off  the  smaller  bud, 
which  would  only  weaken  its  companion.  Keep  the  plants  free 
from  decayed  leaves,  and  gently  stir  the  earth  round  them  occa- 
sionally with  your  small  trowel.  This  operation  refreshes  them. 
Stake  them  neatly,  that  they  may  not  fall  prostrate  after  rain. 

If  you  wish  to  preserve  any  particular  pink,  let  it  grow  in  a 
pot,  or  upon  a  raised  platform,  that  it  may  be  placed  beyond  the 
reach  of  hares,  rabbits,  or  poultiy,  and  be  more  easily  sheltered 
from  long  and  severe  frost  or  rains  in  winter,  and  from  the  dry 
heats  in  summer,  either  of  which  destroys  the  beauty  of  the 
flower.  The  pots  can  be  sunk  in  the  ground  in  fine  weather.  Do 
not  hide  your  pinks  among  larger  flowers  :  let  them  be  distinctly 
seen.  If  you  water  pinks  too  much,  their  roots  become  rotten  ; 
and  if  you  suffer  them  to  be  too  dry,  they  become  diseased.  Be- 
w^are  of  extremes.  The  best  rule  is  to  keep  them  just  moist. 
A.  fine  pink  should  not  have  sharp-pointed  flower  leaves  ;  they 
should  be  round  and  even  at  their  edges,  and  the  colors  should  be 
well  defined,  not  running  one  into  the  other.  The  flower  should 
be  large ;  it  should  possess  a  great  many  leaves,  and  form  a  sort 
of  dome.  Piping  and  slipping,  is  the  most  expeditious  mode  of 
propagating  plants  from  any  selected  pink. 

Pansies,  violets,  &c.,  are  very  easily  propagated  by  parting  the 
roots  when  the  flowers  are  past.  Pansies  are  very  beautiful 
flowers  ;  and  cuttings  of  their  young  shoots  will  grow  very  freely 
if  kept  moist  and  shaded  for  some  little  time.     By  refreshing  the 


30  LADIES*  FLOWER  GARDENER. 

soil  every  year,  you  insure  large  flowers.  Pansies  and  violets 
bloom  early  in  the  spnng. 

IIe2n(icas  must  be  parted  like  violets.  They  appear  so  very 
early  in  the  year  that  no  garden  should  exist  without  these  gay 
and  modest  flowers.  The  leaves  appear  after  the  flower  has  past 
away. 

The  Polyanthtis  blooms  among  the  early  tribe.  In  planting 
this  flower,  be  careful  to  insert  the  roots  deep  in  the  soil,  so  that 
the  leaves  may  rest  upon  it,  for  the  roots  are  pi'oduced  high  upon 
the  stem,  and  those  roots  must  be  enabled  to  shoot  into  the  soil. 
The  polyanthus,  like  almost  every  other  flower,  loves  a  good  soil, 
with  a  mixture  of  sand. 

In  dividing  these  fibrous-rooted  perennial  plants,  take  only  the 
strong  ofi"sets,  with  plenty  of  fibers  attached  to  them. 

Polyanthuses,  auriculas,  double  daisies,  double  camomile,  Lon- 
don pride,  violets,  hepaticas,  thrift,  primroses,  gentianella,  &c., 
succeed  well,  taken  up  and  divided  in  September,  for  they  will 
all  have  done  flowering  by  that  time.  Indeed,  all  perennial 
fibrous-rooted  plants  may  be  taken  up  in  October  to  have  their 
roots  parted,  and  the  soil  refreshed  round  them. 

Peonies,  and  all  knob-rooted  plants,  should  be  taken  up  in 
October  to  part  their  roots  and  transplant  them  to  their  intended 
positions. 

The  saxifrage  has  very  small  roots,  which  are  apt  to  be  lost  in 
borders  if  not  very  carefully  looked  after.  Like  the  anemone, 
&c.,  sift  the  earth  well  for  them. 

Dahlias  require  a  word  or  two  upon  their  culture.  They  love 
sand,  therefore  allow  them  plenty  of  it,  but  do  not  put  manure 
to  their  roots,  Avhich  throws  them  into  luxuriant  leaf  and  stem, 
to  the  deterioration  of  the  flower.  Peat  mould  is  good,  if  you 
can  obtain  it,  to  mix  with  the  sand,  as  it  assists  the  flower  in  de- 
veloping stripes  and  spots.     Train  each  plant  upright,  upon  one 


ON   LAYING   OUT.  81 

gietn  only,  and  give  it  a  strong  stake  to  support  its  weight,  which 
soon  succumbs  under  gusts  of  wind.  Plant  them  in  open  and 
airy  places.  When  the  stems  become  black,  take  them  up,  sepa- 
rate the  roots,  and  plunge  them  into  a  box  of  ashes,  barley  chaff, 
or  sand,  to  protect  them  through  the  winter.  Plant  them  out  in 
May. 

Dahlias  grow  from  cuttings,  which  require  care  and  a  hot-bed 
to  do  well,  but  they  multiply  themselves  very  sufi&ciently  without 
that  trouble. 

It  is  a  great  perfection  to  see  every  tall  plant  in  a  flower-garden 
well  staked,  and  trimmed  from  dead  straggling  shoots.  Let  no 
branches  trail  upon  the  border,  but,  as  in  the  ease  of  Chrysan- 
themums, cut  away  the  lowest  branches  or  shoots,  that  each 
plant  may  stand  erect  and  neat  in  its  order,  without  intermed- 
dling in  its  neighbor's  concerns.  There  will  be  plenty  of  em- 
ployment all  through  the  simimer  in  watching  the  growth  of 
your  plants,  in  cutting  away  decayed  stems,  and  trimming  off 
dead  leaves.  Let  nothing  remain  in  the  flower's  way  after  the 
brightness  of  its  bloom  has  past  by  :  cut  off  the  drooping  flower 
befoz-e  it  runs  to  seed,  which  only  tends  to  weaken  the  other 
flowers,  and  leave  only  the  finest  flower  to  produce  seed  on  each 
plant. 

Perennials  grow  remarkably  fine  always  in  newly  turned-up 
ground,  but  they  gradually  degenerate  if  they  are  allowed  to  re- 
main above  two  years  without  replacing  the  substance  they  have 
exhausted  in  the  soil.  Add  every  year  to  that  substance,  by 
liberal  supplies  from  the  compost  heap. 

Be  careful  to  multiply  your  supply  of  jasmines,  honeysuckles, 
&c.,  by  cuttings  in  their  due  season. 

I  subjoin  a  list  of  the  hardier  sorts  of  fibrous  rooted  Perennials, 
eligible  to  adorn  a  garden,  from  which  my  readers  may  stock 
t];eir  borders. 


32 


ladies'  flowek  gardener. 


LIST    OF    HARDY    PERENNIALS. 


Aster,  or  Star  wort 

Large  blue  Alpine 

Coinmon  Starwort,  or  Michaelmas 
Daisy 
_  Early  Pyrcnean 

Blue  Italian  Starwort 

Catesby's  Starwort 

Dwarf  narrow-leaved  Starwort 

Midsummer  Starwort 

Autumnal  white    Starwort,  with 
broad  leaves 
Tripolian  Starwort 

Divaricated-branched 

Virginian    Starwort,   with   spiked 
blue  flowers 

Early  blue  Starwort 

Rose  Starwort 

Latest  Starwort,  large  blue  flowers 

New  England  Starwort 

Red-flowering 
jSpocynum,  Dogsbane 

Red-flowering 

Orange-colored 

Syrian 
Arum,  Italian  large-veined  leaf 
jlsdcpias,  Swallow-wort 

White 

Yellow 
Aslragahts,  Milk-vetch 
.dlysson,  White 

Yellow 

Violet 
Borage,  the  Eastern 
Bachelor^ s  Button 

Double  red 

Double  white 
Double  Ragged  Robin 
Campanula,  or  Bell-flower 

Double  blue 

Double  white 

Double    blue,   and   white    nettle- 
leaved 
Caliha,  double-flowered 

Marigold 
Cassia  of  Mai-yland 
Pinks,  double  pheasant's  eye 

Dobson 

Deptford 

Cob  white 


Red  cob 

White  stock 

Damask 

Mountain 

Matted 

Old  man's  head 

Painted  lady 

Clove     pink,    emd     many    otnei 
varieties  _ 

Stock  July-jlower,  the  brompton 

Double  scarlet  Brompton 

Single  scarlet 

Purple 

White  Brompton 

Queen  stock 

Purple  double 

Striped  double 

Single  of  each  sort 

Twickenham  stock 
Lichnidea,  early  blue 

Spotted-stalked,  with  purple  spikes 
of  flowers 

Virginia,  with  large  umbels 

Low  trailing  purple 

Carolina,  with  stifi^"  shining  leaves, 
and  deeper  purple  flowers 
Cyanus,  broad-leaved 

Narrow-leaved 
Lychnis,  or  Campion 

Single  scarlet  lychnis 

Double  scarlet  lychnis 

Catchfly,  double  floweis 
Hepaticas,  single  white 

Single  blue 

Single  red 

Double  red 

Double  blue 
Lineria,  toad  ilax 

Purple 

Yellow 
Bee  Larkspur 
Fraxinclla,  white 

Red 
Gentiania,  great  yellow 
Gcntianclla,  blue 
Globularia.  blue  daisy 
Fox-glove,  red 

White 

Iron- colored 


ON    LAVi^^G   OUT. 


33 


Perennial  Sun-flower 

Double  yellow,  and  several  other 
species. 
Cyclamen,  red 

White 
Goldy  Locks 
Chelo^ie,  white 

Red 
Li/y  of  the  Valley,  common 

Double-flowering 
Solotnori's  Seal,  single 

Double 
Filapendula,  or  Dropwort 
Columbines,  common  blue 

Double  red 

Double  white 

Double  striped 

Starry,  double  and  single 

Early- flowering  Canada 
Thalictrum,  feathered  columbines 
Pulsatilla,  blue  Pasque  flower 
O  rob  lis,  bitter  vetch 
3axifrage,  double  white 

Thick-leaved 

Purple 
Veronica,  upright  blue 

Dwarf  blue 

Hungarian 

Blush 
Golden  Rod,  many  species 
Valerian,  red  garden  Valerian 

White  garden 
Rudbekia,  American  sun-flower 

Dwarf  Virginia,  with  large  yellow 
flowers 

Dwarf  Carolina,  with  narrow  red 
reflexed  petals  and  purple  florets 

Virginia,  with  yellow  rays  and  red 
florets 

Tall  yellow,  with  purple  stalks 
and  heart-shaped  leaves 

Taller,  with  yellow  flowers  and 
large  five-lobed  leaves,  and  those 
on  the  stalks  single 

Tallest     yellow,    with    narrower 
leaves,   which    are    all    of   five 
lobes 
pulmonaria,  Lungwort 

Common 

American 

2* 


Monarda,  purple 

Scarlet 
Ephcmeron,  Spider-wort,  or  flowers 
of  a  day 

White 

Blue 
Jacea,  American  knapweed 
Primrose,  double  yellow 

Double  scarlet 

White 
Polyanthus,  many  varieties 
Auriculas,  many  varieties 
Violets,  double  blue 

Double  white 

Double  red 

Russian 

Banksia 
Violet,  the  Major 
London-pride,  or  None-so-pretty 
Day-lily,  red 

Yellow 
Fumitory,  the  yellow 

White 

Bulbous-rooted 

American  forked 
Aconite,  iMonk's-hood,  or  Wolf's-bane 

Blue  Monk's-hood 

Yellow 

White 

Wholesome  Wolf's-bane 
Winter  Aconite 
Hellebore,  or  Bear's-foot 

Common  black  hellebore 

Green-flowered 
White  Hellebore 
Christmas  Rose 
Geranium,  Crane's-bill 

Bloody  Crane's-bill 

Blue 

Roman 

Bladder-cupped 
Daisies,  common  double  red  garden 
daisy 

White 

Double  variegated 

Cock's-comb  daisies,  white  and  red 

Hen  and  chicken,  white  and  red 
Dahlias,  many  varieties 
Peony,  double  red 

Double  white 


u 


ladies'  flower  gardener. 


Double  purple 

Ma.e,  with  large  single  flowers 

Sweet-smelling  Portugal 

Double  rose-colored 
Silpuium,  bastard  Chrysanthemum 
^m,  Fleur-de-lis,  or  liags 

The  German  violet-colored 

Variegated,  or    Hungarian,  purple 
and  yellow 

Chalcedonian  iris 

Greater  Dalmatian  iris 

There   are  several  other  varieties 
of  Irises,  all  very  hardy  and  very 
beautiful  plants 
Cardinal  Flowers,  scarlet 

Blue 
Rockd,  double  white 
£alm  of  Gilead.  sweet-scented  ;  must 

be  sheltered  in  winter 


Everlasting  Pea 
Eupatorium,  several  varieties 
Eryngo,  blue 

White 

Mountain,  purple  and  violet 

There  are  some  other  varieties 
Snap  Dragon,  or  Calf 's-snout 

Red 

White 

Variegated 
Moth  Mullein 
Angelica 

Asphodclus,  King's-spear 
Lupins,  perennial,  blue-flowered 
Ononis,  Rest-har 

Large  yellow-flowered 
Tradescantia,    or    Virginia     Spideri 

wort 


The  Saxifrage  is  propagated  by  cuttings  and  offsets,  which  the 
roots  produce  abundantly.  Take  the  offsets  and  plant  them  out 
in  August.  The  double  white  saxifrage  is  a  beautiful  flower,  and 
blooms  early  in  the  spring.  The  pyramidal  saxifrage  is  a  very 
handsome  decorative  flower,  but  it  must  be  planted  in  little  clumps 
to  make  a  showy  appearance. 

October  is  the  busy  month  for  transplanting  and  removing  the 
offsets  of  all  perennial  and  biennial  plants.  In  this  month  every 
flower  of  summer  has  passed  away,  and  the  garden  is  free  to 
receive  all  new  arrangements  in  its  future  dispositions.  Golden 
rod,  Michaelmas  daisies,  everlasting  sun-flower,  and  other  branch- 
ing plants,  will  require  taking  up  eveiy  four  years,  to  part  the 
main  root  into  separate  plants,  and  replace  them  in  the  ground 
again.  Peonies,  lilies  of  the  valley,  fraxinellas,  monk's-hood,  flag- 
leaved  irises,  &c.,  must  be  increased  or  removed  when  required. 
All  this  is  most  effectually  done  in  October. 

In  the  same  month,  finish  all  that  is  to  be  eftected  among  the 
pei'onnial  tribe.  Campanulas,  lychnises,  polyanthuses,  vio'^its, 
Econites,  cyclamens,  gentianella,  yelbw  gentian,  double  daisies,- 


ON  LAYING  OUT.  35 

hepaticas,  saxifrage,  &c.,  must  be  attended  to,  and  propagated, 
by  dividing  the  roots,  before  October  closes.  November  is  tbe 
season  of  fogs  and  severe  frosts :  if  a  lady  is  prudent,  she  will 
perform  all  these  needful  operations  in  October,  and  November 
will  have  no  alarms  for  her. 

All  the  double-flowering  plants,  such  as  double  sweet-william, 
double  rockets,  double  scarlet  lychnis,  &c.,  should  be  placed  in 
sheltered  situations  in  October,  to  weather  out  the  storms  of 
winter.  Double  flowers  are  very  handsome,  and  deserve  a  little 
care. 

The  most  charming  little  perennial  flower  which  can  adorn  a 
lady's  garden  is  the  scarlet  verbena,  but  it  is  very  difficult  to  pre- 
serve through  the  winter.  Its  beauty,  however,  repays  the  care 
which  may  be  bestowed  upon  it.  This  tender  plant — the  onl}'- 
really  tender  root  which  I  admit  into  my  work — is  not  only  de- 
sirable from  its  fine,  full  scarlet  blossoms,  but  it  blooms  from 
April  to  November.  The  scarlet  verbena  loves  a  rich,  light,  dry 
border  or  bed,  in  a  sunny  situation  ;  they  delight  also  in  rock- 
work,  where  they  have  been  known  to  exist  through  the  winter. 
Plant  the  roots  about  six  inches  apart  in  the  middle  of  April,  and 
keep  pegging  down  the  shoots  as  they  throw  themselves  along 
the  bed.  A  profusion  of  flowers  and  plants  are  produced  by  this 
means.  A  bed  or  border  sloping  to  the  south  is  the  best  situa- 
tion fcr  the  scarlet  verbena. 


36  LAuIKS     ri.OWEP.    GARDENER. 


CHAPTER  IV 

BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  FLOWERS — PERENK1AL8. 

/^N  SHALL  ffive  the  bulbous  and  tuberous-rooted  flowers  a  Chan* 
>=^^  ter  to  themselves.  They  are  the  earliest  treasures  of  the 
^-^0  flower-garden,  and  deserve  especial  notice.  There  was  a  pe- 
riod when  two  hundred  pounds  was  ofiered  for  a  hyacinth  root,  and 
even  the  enormous  sum  of  six  hundred  pounds  was  given  for  a  Sem- 
fer  Augustus  tulip,  hy  the  Dutch  tulip  fanciers.  But  though  a  few 
florists  are  still  particularly  nice  with  respect  to  their  bulbs,  the 
time  is  past  for  paying  such  splendid  prices ;  and  such  an  inex- 
haustible variety  offer  themselves  to  our  notice  now,  that  we  are 
somewhat  puzzled  in  making  a  choice  collection.  Seed  produces 
immense  nunibei's  yearly,  and  an  infinite  vaiiety  of  new  colors  in 
each  species.  The  florist  is  lost  in  admiration  of  the  magnificent 
blooms  which  meet  the  eye  in  every  flower-garden  which  is  care- 
fully attended  to. 

Bulbs  love  a  mixture  of  garden  soil  and  sand,  well  mixed,  and 
dug  about  two  spades  deep  to  hghten  it.  Break  the  mould  fine, 
and  rake  the  surface  even.  Plant  the  bulbs  four  inches  deep, 
and  let  them  be  six  inches  apart,  placing  the  bulb  with  care  int(v 
the  dibbled  hole,  and  pressing  the  earth  gently  round  each.  All 
bulbs  should  be  replanted  in  September,  and  taken  out  of  the 
ground  when  Hiey  have  done  flowering.  When  the  leaves  and 
stems  decay,  dig  them  neatly  up,  in  dry  weather,  with  your 
fi^arden  fork  ;  take  the  offsets  carefully  from  the  main  root ;  spread 
them  out  to  dry  on  a  mat,  and  put  them  in  a  cool  dry  place  to 
plant  again  in  September. 


TEANSPL ANTING   BULBS.  37 

The  common  bulbs,  sucb  as  Snowdrops,  Crocuses,  &c.,  may  be 
left  two  or  three  years  untouclied  ;  but  at  tlie  end  of  that  peiiod 
take  them  up,  to  separate  the  offsets  and  small  roots  from  the 
mother  plants.  You  can  replant  them  immediately,  taldno-  care 
to  thin  the  clumps,  and  separate  each  root  six  inches  from  its 
neighbor,  that  they  may  rise  healthy,  and  throw  out  fine  blooms. 

JVcn-cissuses,  Jonquils,  and  Irises,  may  also  remain  two  years 
untouched ;  but  if  annually  taken  up,  they  will  flower  finer,  and 
for  these  reasons. 

By  taking  up  your  bulbs  as  soon  as  their  leaves  and  stems  de- 
cay, it  not  only  allows  you  to  separate  the  offsets,  which  weaken 
the  parent  bulb,  but  it  prevents  their  receiving  any  damage  from 
long  drought,  or  the  equally  destructive  moisture  of  heavy  rains, 
which  would  set  them  growing  again  before  their  time,  and  ex- 
haust them.  The  two  or  three  months  in  which  they  are  laid  by 
contributes  to  their  strength,  by  allowing  them  that  peiiod  of 
complete  rest. 

The  autumn-flowering  bulbs,  such  as  the  Colchicums,  the  Au- 
tumnal Crocus,  the  Yelloio  Autumnal  Narcissus,  &c.,  should  be 
taken  up  in  May  or  eaily  in  June,  when  they  are  at  rest.  Ti-ans- 
plant  them  now,  if  you  wish  to  remove  them  ;  part  the  offsets, 
and  plant  them  six  inches  apart.  If  you  keep  them  out  of  the 
ground,  put  them  in  a  dry,  shady  place,  till  the  middle  of  July 
or  August,  when  you  must  plant  them  again,  to  blow  in  the  au- 
tumn. 

Be  careful  to  take  up  bulbs  as  soon  as  the  leaves  decay.  If 
they  are  incautiously  left  in  the  ground  beyond  that  period,  they 
begin  to  form  the  bud  for  the  next  year's  flowers  ;  and  the  check 
of  a  removal  would  injure  them.  They  might  produce  flowers 
in  due  time,  but  they  would  be  weakly. 

The  httle  offsets  will  not  flower  for  a  year  or  two.     They  may 


38  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

be  consigned  to  a  nursery-bed  to  remain  for  that  time,  in  order  to 
swell  and  strengthen  by  themselves. 

If  you  wish  to  procure  new  varieties  from  seed,  it  must  be 
sown  in  August.  The  healthiest  flower-stalk  should  be  chosen, 
and  deposited  in  pots  or  boxes  of  fine  light  earth,  for  the  con- 
venience of  removing  under  shelter  in  wet  or  frost.  Keep  the 
pots  or  boxes  in  the  shade  during  the  heats,  but,  as  the  cold 
weather  advances,  remove  them  to  a  warm  sheltered  spot.  Litter 
will  shelter  them  from  the  frost,  if  you  cannot  command  any 
other  covering.  The  plants  will  appear  early  the  following  May : 
they  must  be  kept  very  clear  from  weeds,  and  be  moderately 
watered  in  dry  weather.  These  seedlings  must  be  transplanted 
every  summer  to  be  thinned,  and  placed  further  apart  from  each 
other  till  they  blow,  when  they  may  be  removed  into  the  flower- 
beds. 

This  method  is  troublesome,  and  requires  patience.  Tulip 
seedlings  are  seven  years  before  they  flower,  and  a  lady  may  find 
her  patience  severely  tried  in  waiting  for  their  blooms.  Seven 
years  is  a  large  portion  of  human  life.  If  you  can  persevere, 
however,  you  will  be  rewarded  by  beautiful  varieties  of  new  colors 
and  stripes. 

Fine  tulips  should  have  six  leaves,  three  on  the  outside  and 
three  on  the  inside,  and  the  former  should  be  broader  than  the 
latter.  The  stripes  upon  the  ttdip  should  also  be  defined  and  dis- 
tinct, not  mixing  with  the  ground  tints. 

Hyacinth  seedlings  are  four  years  before  they  flower ;  this  is 
not  so  harassing  a  period  as  the  Tulip  requires ;  but  every  plea- 
.sure  has  its  counterbalance.  If  you  will  have  fine  flowers,  you 
must  wait  for  them.     These  bulbs  love  a  sunny  situation. 

The  Orchis  tribe  prefer  a  moist  ground  and  a  northern  aspect. 
Columella  says,  that  when  orchis  bulbs  arc  sown  in  autumn,  they 
germinate  and  bear  flowers  in  April, 


BULBOUS  PLANTS.  39 

The  Colchicums  or  narcissus  are  hardy  bulbs,  and  will  grow  in 
any  sort  of  ground  ;  only,  the  better  the  soil  is,  the  finer  they 
will  flower. 

The  Guernsey  Lily  and  Belladonna  will  not  thrive  in  the  open 
ground,  therefore  it  is  needless  to  speak  of  those  very  splendid 
flowers. 

The  Lily  of  the  Valley,  though  scarcely  to  be  classed  among 
the  lily  tribe,  is  a  beautiful  flower,  and  as  fragrant  as  it  is  lovely. 
They  must  be  multiplied  by  dividing  the  roots,  which  should  be 
parted  with  a  knife,  as  they  are  very  intricate :  do  this  in  Decem- 
ber. Plant  them  three  inches  deep  in  the  ground,  and  disturb 
them  as  little  as  you  can  help,  as  they  do  not  like  to  be  often 
moved.  They  are  larger  in  their  flowers  when  grown  in  the 
shade,  but  they  are  sweeter  in  perfume  in  the  sun's  full  rays. 
Thin  broad  leaves  are  sufficient  shelter  to  the  flowers. 

All  bulbs  love  salt :  be  careful,  therefore,  to  throw  a  portion 
of  common  salt  or  brine  upon  your  compost  heap.  My  cousin, 
Cuthbert  W.  Johnson,  Esq.,  in  his  "  Observations  on  the  Em- 
ployment of  Salt,"  quotes  a  passage  in  a  letter  addressed  to  him 
Dy  Mr.  Thomas  Hogg,  the  eminent  florist,  upon  the  advantages 
of  salt  in  the  cultivation  of  flowers.     I  will  transciibe  it  here  : — 

"  From  the  few  experiments  that  I  have  tried  with  salt  as  a  garden  ma- 
nure, I  am  fully  prepared  to  bear  testimony  to  its  usefulness.  In  a  treatise 
upon  flowers,  published  about  six  years  since,  I  remarked,  that  the  applica- 
tion of  salt,  and  its  utility  as  a  manure,  was  yet  imperfectly  understood.  It 
is  d  matter  of  uncertainty,  whether  it  acts  directly  as  a  manure,  or  only  as  a 
kind  of  spice  or  seasoning,  thereby  rendering  the  soil  a  more  palatable  food 
for  plants. 

"  The  idea  that  first  suggested  itself  to  my  mind,  arose  from  contemplating 
the  successful  culture  of  hyacinths  in  Holland.  This  root,  though  not  in- 
digenous to,  the  country,  may  be  said  to  be  completely  naturalized  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Haerlem,  where  it  grows  luxuriantly  in  a  deep,  sandy,  allu- 
vial soil .  yet  one  great  cause  of  its  free  growth,  I  considered,  was  owing  to 
the  saline  atmos/^ere:  this  induced  me  to  mix  salt  in  the  compost;  and  '/ 


40  ladies'  flowek  gakdener. 

am  satisfied  that  no  hyacinths  will  grow  well  at  a  distance  irc»n  the  sea 
without  it.  I  am  also  of  opinion,  that  the  numerous  bulbous  tribe  of  Amaryl- 
lisses,  especially  those  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  ;  Ixias,  Aliums,  which 
include  Onions,  Garlic,  Shalots,  &c.,  Anemones,  various  species  of  the  Lily 
Antholyza,  Colchicum,  Crinum,  Cyclamens,  Narcissus,  Iris,  Gladiolus,  Ran- 
unculus, Scilla,  and  many  others,  should  either  have  salt  or  sea-sand  in  the 
mould  used  for  them. 

"  I  invariably  use  salt  as  an  ingredient  in  my  compost  for  carnations ;  a 
plant  which,  like  wheat,  requires  substantial  soil,  and  all  the  strength  and 
heat  of  the  summer,  to  bring  it  to  perfection ;  and  I  believe  I  might  say, 
without  boasting,  that  few  excel  me  in  blooming  that  flower." 

Colcliicums,  the  Autumnal  Narcissus,  Amaryllis,  and  the  Au- 
tumn Crocus,  should  be  planted  in  August,  to  blow  in  September 
and  October. 

Replant  all  the  bulbous  tribe  by  the  end  of  October,  at  the 
latest.  Choose  a  mild,  dry  day  to  put  them  in  the  ground,  and 
let  each  bulb  be  six  or  nine  inches  distant  from  its  companion. 
All  bulbs  become  weak  by  being  placed  too  closely  together,  the 
soil  becoming  soon  exhausted. 

Bulbs  of  the  more  choice  varieties  are  better  attended  to  if 
they  can  be  placed  in  beds  or  compartments  by  themselves ;  for 
they  are  more  easily  sheltered  from  frost  and  rain  when  in  a  bod3^ 
The  eye,  also,  is  more  delighted  by  the  beautiful  variety  en  masse. 
Their  favorite  soil,  too,  can  be  composed  and  preserved  for  them 
more  exclusively,  unexhausted  by  the  roots  of  larger  plants  around 
them.  Some  of  the  commoner  sorts  can  be  planted  out  in 
patches,  to  add  to  the  gay  appearance  of  the  borders,  among  the 
spring  flowers. 

Martagons,  orange  liUes,  and  bulbs,  of  tall  growth,  should 
never  be  planted  among  the  smaller  tribe  ;  their  large  bulbs 
would  exhaust  the  soil,  and  weaken  the  smaller  flowers.  They 
look  very  handsome  in  borders  and  plots,  placed  near,  or  in.  theit 
center. 


TUBEPOUS-ROOTED    FLOWERS. 


41 


LIST    OF    BULBOUS    AND    TUBEROUS-ROOTED    FLOWERS. 


Jimaryllis.,  comprising  the  autumnal 

yellow  Narcissus 
Spring  ditto 
Crocus  vcrnus,   or    spring-flowering 

crocus 
Common  yellow 
Large  yellow 
Yellow,  with  black  stripes 
White 

White,  with  blue  stripes 
Blue,  with  white  stripes 
Deep  blue 
Light  blue 

White,  with  purple  bottom 
Scotch,  or  black  and  white  striped 
Cream-colored 
Autumnal  flowering    Crocus,   of  the 

following  varieties : — 
True   saffron    crocus,   with  bluish 

flower,  and  golden  stigma,  which 

is  the  saffron 
Common    autumnal    crocus,  with 

deep  blue  flowers 
With  light  blue  flowers 
Many-flowered 
Siioii'drop,  the  small  spring  flowering 
Common  single 
Double 
Leucojum,  or  great  summer  snowdrop 
Great  summer  snowdrop  with  an- 
gular  stalk :    a   foot    high,    and 

two    or    three    flowers  in  each 

sheath 
Taller  great  snowdrop,  with  many 

flowers 
Ornithogalum,  or  Star  of  Bethlehem 
Great  white  pyramidal,  with  nar- 
row leaves 
White,    with    broadsword-shaped 

leaves  spreading  on  the  ground 
Yellow 
Pyrenean,     with    whitish     green 

flowers 
Star    of    Naples,    with     hanging 

flowers 
Umbellated,  producing  its  flowers 

in  umbels,  or  spreading  Dunches, 

at  the  top  of  the  stalk 
Low  yr  low  umbellated 


Erijthroninin,    Jens    canis,    or   dog's 
tooth 

Round-leaved,  wi*h  red  flowers 

Same,  with  white  flowers 

The  same,  yellow 

Long  narrow-leaved,  with  purple 
and  with  white  flowers 

Grape  hyacinth 

Purple 

Blue 

White 

Musk  hyacinth 

White 

Ash-colored 

Blue  feathered  hyacinth 

Purple 

Musky,  or  sweet-scented,  with  full 
purple  flowers 

The  same,  with  large  purple  and 
yellow  flowers 

Great  African  Muscaria,  with  sul- 
phur-colored flower 
Fritillaria  checkered  tulip 

Early  purple,  variegated,  or  check- 
ered with  white 

Black,  checkered  with  yellow  spots 

Yellow,  checkered  with  purple 

Dark  purple,  with  yellow  spots, 
and  flowers  growing  in  an  um- 
bel 

Persian  lily,  with  tall  stalks,  and 
dark  purple  flowers  growing  in 
a  pyramid 

Branching  Tersian  lily 
Corona  Imperialism  crown  imperial,  a 
species  of  Fritillaria 

Common  red 

Common  yellow 

Yellow-striped 

Sulphur-colored 

Large-flowering 

Double  of  each  variety 

Crown  upon  crown,  or  with  two 
whorls  of  flowers 

Triple  crown  upon  crown,  or  with 
three  tiers  of  flowers  one  above 
another 

Gold-striped  leaved 

Silver-striped  leaved 


i2 


ladies'  flower  gardener. 


Tulip,  early  dwarf  tulip 

Tall,  or  most  common  tulip 

Early,  yellow  and  red  striped 

White  and  red  striped 

White  and  purple  striped 

White  and  rose  striped 

Tall,  or  late-flowering,  with  white 
bottoms,  striped  with  brown 

White  bottoms,  striped  with  violet 
or  black  brown 

White  bottoms,  striped  with  red 
or  vermilion 

Yellow  bottoms,  striped  with  dif- 
ferent colors,  called  Bizarres 
Double  Tulip,  yellow  and  red 

White  and  red 
Gladiolus,  corn  flag,  or  sword  lily, 
common,  with  sword-shaped 
leaves,  and  a  reddish  purple 
flower  ranged  on  one  side  of  the 
stalk 

The  same,  with  white  flowers 

Italian  with  reddish  flowers  ranged 
on  both  sides  of  the  stalk 

The  same,  with  white  flowers 

Great  red  of  Byzantium 

Narrow  grassy-leaved,  and  a  flesh- 
colored  flower,  with  channeled, 
long,  narrow,  four-angled  leaves, 
and  two  bell-shaped  flowers  on 
the  stalk 

Great  Indian 
Anemone,  wood  anemone,  with  blue 
flowers 

White  flowers 

Red  flowers 

Double  white 
Garden  Double  Anemone,  with  crim- 
son flowers 

Purple 

Red 

Blue 

White 

Red  and  white  striped 

Red,  white,  and  purple 

Rose  and  white 

Blue,  striped  w^ith  white 
Ranunculus,  Turkey   with  a  single 
stalk,   and  large  double  bloo!> 
T'^d  flower 

Yelljw-flowered 


Persian,  with  branching  stalk,  ant 
large  double  flowers  of  innumer- 
able varieties,  of  which  there  are 

Very  double  flowers 

Semi,  or  half  double 

(The  double   are    most  beautiful, 
propagated  by  ofl^sets) 
Pancratium,  sea  daffodil 

Common  white  sea  Narcissus,  with 
many  flowers  in  a  sheath,  and 
tongue-shaped  leaves 

Sclavonian,  with  taller  stems  and 
many  white  flowers,  and  sword- 
shaped  leaves 

Broad-leaved  American,  with  large 
white  flowers,  eight  or  ten  in  a 
sheath 

Mexican,  with  two  flowers 

Ceylon,  with  one  flower 
Molij  {Allium),  species  of  garlic  pro- 
ducing flowers 

Broad-leaved  yellow 

Great  broad-leaved,  with  lily 
flowers 

Broad-leaved,  with  white  flowers 
in  large  round  umbels 

Smaller  white  umbellated 

Purple 

Rose-colored 
Fumaria  bulbosa,  or  bulbous-rooted 
fumitory 

Greater  purple 

Hollow-rooted 

American,  with  a  forked  flower 
Narcissus,  or  daffodil,  common  double 
yellow  daffodil 

Single  yellow,  with  the  middle  cup 
as  long  as  the  petals 

White,  with  yellow  cups 

Double,  with  several  cups,  one 
within  another 

Common  white  narcissus,  with 
single  flowers 

Double  white  narcissus 

Incomparable,  or  great  nonsuch, 
with  double  flowers 

With  single  flowers 

Hoop  petticoat  narcissus,  or  rush- 
leaved  daffodil,  with  the  middle 
cup  larger  than  the  petals,  and 
very  broad  at  the  b'ira 


TUBEROUS-ROOTED   FLOWERS. 


43 


Daffodil,  with  white  reflexed  pe- 
tals, and  golden  cups 

White  daflbdil,  with  jjuiple  cups 
Polyanthus  Narcissus^  ha\'ing  many 
snnall  flowers  on   a    stalk,  from 
the  same    sheath.     Of  this  are 
the  following  varieties  : — 

White,  with  white  cups 

Yellow,  with  yellow  cups 

White,  with  yellow  cups 

White,  with  orange  cups 

White,  with  sulphur-colored  cups 

Yellow,  with  orange  cups 

Yellow,  with  sulphur-colored  cups 

With  several  intermediate  varie- 
ties 

iVutumnal  narcissus 

iquil,  common  single 

.^arge  single 

Uommon  douhle 

Oouhle,  with  large  round  roots 
i   Mum,  the  lily,  comm^on  white  lily 

iVith  spotted  or  striped  llowers 

With  douhle  flowers 

With  striped  leaves 

White  lily,  with  hanging  or  pen- 
dent flowers 

Common  orange  lily,  with  large 
single  flowers 

With  double  flowers 

With  striped  leaves 

Fiery,  bulb-bearing  lily,  producing 
bulbs  at  the  joints  of  the  stalks 

Common  narrow-leaved 

Great  broad-leaved 

Many-flowered 

Hoary 

Martagon  lily,  sometimes  called 
Turk's-rap,  from  the  reflexed 
position  of  their  flower-leaves. 
There  are  many  varieties,  and 
which  differ  from  the  other  sorts 
of  lilies  in  having  the  petals  of 
their  flowe/s  reflexed,  or  turned 
backward.     The  varieties  are — 

Common  red  martagon,  with  very 
narrow  sparsed  leaves,  or  such 
as  grow  without  order  all  over 
the  flowe.~-stal?c 

Double  martagon 

White 


Double  white 

White  spotted 

Scarlet,  with  broad  sparsed  leaves 

Bright  red,  many-llowered.  or  pom 
pony,  with  short,  grassy,  sparsed 
leaves 

Reddish  hairy  martagon,  with 
leaves  growing  in  whorls  round 
the  stalk 

Great  yellow,  with  pyramidal 
flowers,  spotted 

Purple,  with  dark  spots,  and  broad 
leaves  in  whorls  round  the  stalk, 
or  most  common  Turk's-cap 

White  spotted  Turk's-cap 

Canada  martagon,  with  yellowish 
large  flowers  spotted,  and  leaves 
in  whorls 

Campscatense  ma-rtagon,  with 
erect  bell-shaped  flowers 

Philadelphia  martagon,  with   two 
erect  bright  purple  flowers 
Squills,  sea  onion,  or  lily  hyacinth, 
common    lily  hyacinth,   with  a 
lily  root  and  blue  flower 

Peruvian,  or  broad-leaved  hyacinth 
of  Peru,  with  blue  llowers 

With  while  lie  wers 

Early  white  starry  hyacinth 

Blue 

Autumnal  starry  hyacinth 

Larger  starry  blue  hyacinth  of  By- 
zantium 

Purple  star-flower  of  Peru 

Italian  blue-spiked  star-flower 
Asphodel  lily,  African  blue,   with  a 

tuberous  root  p 

Tuberose,  or  Indian  tuberous  hyacinth. 
It  produces  a  small  stem  three 
or  four  feet  high,  adorned  with 
many  white  flowers  of  great  fra- 
grance. 

The  varieties  are, — 
Fine  double  tuberose 
Single  tuberose 
Small-flowered 
Striped-leaved 
Iris  bulbosa,  or  bulbous  Iris,  Persian, 
with    three    erect    blue    petals 
called  standards,  and  three    re- 
flexed petals  called  falls,  which 


44 


LADIES'    FLOWER  GARDENER. 


ats  variegated,  called  Persian 
bulbous  iris,  with  a  variegated 
flower 

Common    narrow-leaved  bulbous 
iris,  with  a  blue  flower 

White 

Yellow 

Blue,  with  white  falls 

Blue,  with  yellow  falls 

Greater  broad-leaved  bulbous  iris, 
with  a  deep  blue  flower 

Bright  purple 

Deep  purple 

Variegated 

Great,  with  broad  and  almost  plain 
or  flat  leaves,  with  blue  flowers 

Purple 

Of  the  above  there  are  many  in- 
termediate varieties 
Hyacinth,  eastern,  with  large  flowers. 
Of  these  there  are  many  varie- 
ties, and  of  which  there  are  in- 
numerable intermediate   shades 
or  tints  of  color 
Of  double  sorts  there  are, — 
Blues 

Purple  blues 
Agatha  blues 
Whites 

Whites,  with  yellow  eyes 
Whites,  with  red  eyes 
Whites,   with  violet  or  purple 

eyes 
Whites,  with  rose-colored  eyes 
Whites,  with  scarlet  eyes 
Reds 
Incarnate,  flesh  or  rose-colored 

Of  single  sorts  there  are, — 

Blues,   of    various    shades,    as 

above 
Whites 
Reds 

Rose-colored 

With  many  intermediate  shades 
or  varieties 
(Muscaria)  ,  or  musk  hyacinth 

Ash- colored 

White 

Qbsolete  purple 

Greater  yellow  African 

Grape  hyacinth 


Purple 
Blue 
White 
Red 

Monstrous  flowering,  or  blue-fea- 
thered hyacinth 

Comosed,  or  tufted  purple  hyacinth 

Amethystine  blue  hyacinth 

Nodding,  spiked,  red  hyacinth 

Non-script  small  English  hyacinth, 
or  harebells,  of  the  following 
varieties : — 

Common  blue  flowers  arranged  on 
one  side  of  the  stalk 

White 

Bell-shaped  blue  hyacinth,  with 
flowers  on  every  side  of  the 
stalk 

Bell-shaped  peach-colored,  with 
flowers  on  one  side  of  the  stalk 

These  are  very  hardy,  propagating 
bj'  offsets 

Hyacinth,    with    a     pale    purple 
flower 
Colchicums  in  variety 
Leontke,   lion's  leaf,  largest  yellow, 
with  single  foot-stalks   to    the 
leaves 

Smaller  pale  yellow,  with  branched 
foot-stalks  to  the  leaves 
Cyclamen,  sow-bread,  European,  or 
common  autumn-flowering,  with 
a  purple  flower,  and  angular 
heart-shaped  leaves 

The  same,  with  a  black  flower 

The  same,  with  white  flowers 

Red  spring-flowering,  with  heart- 
shaped  leaves,  marbled  with 
white 

Entire  white,  sweet-smelling 

Purple  winter-flowering,  with 
plain  or  circular  shining  green 
leaves 

Purple  round-leaved  autumn-flow- 
ering 

Small,  or  anemone-rooted,  with 
flesh-colored  flowers  appearing 
in  autumn :  these  plants  have 
large,  round,  sclid  roots;  the 
flowers  and  leaves  rise  immedi* 
ately  from  the  root 


FIBROUS-ROOTED    FLOWERS.  45 

Co<wta  Rcgalis,  or  royal  crown ;  re-  I  jScmiite,  the  winter 
quires  shelter  in  the  winter  I  Sisyrinchium 


AURICULA,  RANUNCULUS,  ANEMONE. 

These  early  and  beautifu]  flowers  deserve  pecuiiai  notice,  for 
00  garden  looks  well  without  them,  and  their  bright  tints  delight 
the  eye  and  mind.  The  commonest  kinds  are  handsome  and  use- 
ful in  small  clumps,  and  a  little  care  and  trouble  will  raise  superb 
varieties. 

The  Auricula  loves  a  soil  composed  of  kitchen-garden  mould, 
sand,  and  cow-dung,  well  mixed  together ;  they  also  like  a  cool 
situation.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  September,  and  when 
sown  give  it  a  gentle  watering.  By  sowing  the  seed  in  pots  or 
boxes,  you  can  remove  them  from  heavy  rains,  <fec.,  without 
trouble,  and  shelter  them  in  the  outhouses  or  tool-house.  The 
seed  seldom  appears  under  six  months,  and  it  has  been  sometimes 
a  twelvemonth  producing  itself,  therefore  be  not  in  despair,  but 
remaiin  patient ;  these  freaks  of  nature  cannot  be  accounted  for. 
When  they  flower,  you  must  single  out  the  plants  which  bear 
the  finest  and  most  choice  blooms,  and  transplant  them  into  pots 
filled  with  the  compost  above  described.  The  common  sorts 
may  be  planted  in  the  borders,  to  remain  out  and  shift  for  them- 
selves. By  keeping  the  fine  auriculas  in  pots,  you  preserve  them 
through  the  winter  easily,  for  heavy  rains  and  cutting  winds  do 
them  harm.  You  can  sink  them  in  their  pots  during  summer  ic 
the  flower-beds,  but  let  them  be  sheltered  during  the  winter,  if 
you  wish  to  preserve  the  blooms  uninjured. 

Auriculas  multiply  also  by  suckers,  which  grow  on  their  roots. 
Take  oflF  these  in  February,  and  plunge  them  into  pots  of  the 
mould  they  like  best,  to  root  freely.  They  wi^l  do  so  in  two 
months.  Auriculas  should  not  be  too  much  watered,  as  it  makes 
them  look  sickly,  and  the  leaves  become  yellow.     When  you  pot 


46  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

the  auriculas,  sink  them  up  to  their  leaves  in  the  soil,  but  do  not 
press  the  mould  round  the  plant,  as  the  flowers  bloom  finest  when 
the  roots  touch  the  sides  of  the  flower  pot. 

The  auricula  is  esteemed  fine  that  has  a  low  stem,  a  stalk  pro- 
portioned to  the  flower,  the  eye  well  opened,  and  always  dry. 
The  glossy,  the  velvet,  and  the  streaked  auriculas  are  the  most 
admired.  The  stalk  should  be  decked  with  many  flower-bells,  to 
be  handsome  and  healthy. 

Take  care  to  pull  off"  all  dead  leaves  round  the  plant  at  all 
times,  that  it  may  appear  neat  and  clean.  Neatness  is  favorabk 
to  its  perfect  growth,  as  well  as  decorating  it  to  the  eye. 

The  Ranunculus  does  not  like  being  mixed  up  with  other 
flowers,  and  from  this  "  aristocratic  principle  "  it  is  always  planted 
in  separate  knots 

This  flower  loves  sun  and  warmth.  The  root  must  be  planted 
in  September,  to  bloom  early  in  the  summer,  and  it  delights  in 
a  rich,  moist  soil,  well  dug,  and  raked  soft  and  fine.  When  you 
plant  them  in  beds  or  pots,  they  must  be  sunk  two  inches  deep, 
and  dibble  the  hole  with  a  round,  not  pointed,  dibble.  Place  the 
roots  four  or  five  inches  apart,  in  the  warmest  situation  in  youi 
garden.  By  planting  ranunculuses  in  pots,  you  can  more  easily 
place  them  in  Avarm  situations,  and  withdraw  them  from  heavy 
rains.  The  more  room  you  give  these  roots  the  finer  they  will 
grow  and  blow.  If  your  plots  will  allow  of  so  doing,  let  the 
roots  be  planted  six  or  seven  inches  apart.  The  flowers  will 
repay  your  care.  When  ranunculuses  in  pots  have  flowered,  re- 
move them  from  the  August  rains,  or  take  up  the  roots,  to  re- 
plant in  September. 

The  Ranunculus  with  the  double  white  flower  must  not  be 
taken  up  until  September,  when  it  should  be  taken  up  rj^iickly^ 
its  roots  parted,  and  replanted  immediately 


ANEMCNKS.  47 

The  Yellow  Ranunculus  with  the  rue  leaf,  prefers  being  potted 
to  being  planted  in  beds. 

The  Ranunculus  propagates  by  seed  as  well  as  offsets.  Sow 
the  seed  as  you  do  that  of  the  auricula. 

The  most  admired  ranunculuses  are  the  white,  the  golden 
yellow,  the  pale  yellow,  the  citron-colored,  and  the  brown  red. 
The  red  is  the  least  esteemed.  The  yellow  ranunculus  speckled 
with  red,  is  handsome, — also  the  rose-color  with  white  inside. 

Great  varieties  are  obtained  by  seed. 

The  Anemones  love  a  light  soil,  composed  of  kitchen-gardea 
mould,  and  sand,  and  leaf  mould,  well  mixed,  and  sifted  line.  It 
should,  if  possible,  be  composed  a  year  before  it  is  used;  the 
lighter  it  is  the  better  for  anemones. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  September.  The  single  flowers 
alone  bear  seed,  which  is  fit  to  gather  when  it  appears  ready  to 
fly  away  with  the  first  gust  of  wind.  As  soon  as  the  seed  is 
lodged,  and  raked  smoothly  into  its  fine,  light  bed,  strew  the  bed 
over  with  straw  or  mattinsr,  and  oive  it  a  jjood  watering'.  In 
three  weeks  the  seed  will  begin  to  rise,  when  the  straw  may  be 
removed.     The  young  plants  will  flower  in  the  following  April. 

When  the  roots  are  to  be  planted  in  September,  sink  them 
iibout  thiee  inches  deep,  and  six  inches  apart,  that  they  may 
come  up  strong  and  flower  well.  Make  a  hole  in  the  ground  for 
them  with  your  finger,  and  set  them  upon  the  broadest  side, 
with  the  slit  downwards. 

Those  anemones  planted  in  September  will  flower  in  March 
And  April,  and  the  roots  planted  in  May  flower  in  autumn,  but 
the  flowers  are  never  so  fine. 

When  anemones  have  done  flowering,  it  requires  some  care  in 
taking  up  the  roots,  in  order  to  part  and  put  them  by  till  the 
time  for  replanting  ariives.  The  roots  or  flaps  are  so  small  and 
difficult  to  distinoruiy]),  that  the  earth  should  be  taken  no  and 


48  LADIES    FLOWER    GARDEKEK. 

laid  upon  a  sieve  to  be  sifted,  wlien  the  flaps  will  alone  remain 
behind,  or  the  earth  may  be  deposited  upon  an  open  newspaper 
or  cloth,  and  well  rubbed  with  the  hand  to  feel  for  the  minute 
dark-colored  flaps,  which  may  easily  escape  observation. 

The  beauty  of  this  flower  consists  in  its  thickness  and  roundness, 
especially  when  the  great  leaves  are  a  little  above  the  thickness 
of  the  tuft. 

Choose  your  seed  from  the  finest  single  anemone,  with  a  broad, 
round  leaf. 

The  remaining  tuberous-rooted  flowers  are  very  hardy. 

BIENNIALS. 

Biennial  flowers,  as  the  name  implies,  are  plants  that  exist 
only  two  years.  They  are  propagated  by  seed,  rising  the  first 
year,  and  flowering  the  second.  If  they  continue  another  year, 
they  are  sickly  and  languid.  The  double  biennials  may  be  con- 
tinued by  cuttings  and  slips  of  the  tops,  as  well  as  by  layers  and 
pipings,  though  the  parent  flower  dieS' — but  they  are  not  so  fine. 
A  lady  should  have  a  space  of  ground  allotted  to  biennial  seed- 
lings, so  that  a  fresh  succession  of  plants  may  be  ready  to  supply 
the  place  of  those  which  die  away.  The  seeds  should  be  sown 
every  spring  in  light,  well-dug  earth  ;  the  young  plants  should 
be  kept  very  clean,  and  some  inches  apart  from  each  other ;  and 
they  must  be  finally  transplanted  in  autumn  into  the  beds  where 
they  are  intended  to  remain. 

But  there  is  a  great  uncertainty  as  to  raising  the  double  flowers , 
therefore  it  is  better  to  make  sure  of  those  you  approve  by  per- 
petuating them  as  long  as  you  can,  by  any  root  oftsets  they  may 
throw  off, — by  pipings,  cuttings,  or  by  layers,  as  before  noticed. 
I  subjoin  a  list  of  the  principal  and  useful  biennials. 


HARDY   BIENNIALS. 


49 


LIST    OF    HARDY    BIENNIALS, 


Canterburti  Bells 

liiae-florrers 

White 

Purple 

Pyramidal 
Carnation.     All  the  varieties,  some- 

what  biennial-perennial. 
Clary,  Purple -topped 

Red-topped 
Colutea,  Ethiopian 
French  Honeysuckle 

Red 

White 
Globe  Thistle 

Hollyhocks.    Somewhat  biennial-per- 
ennial ;  all  the  varieties  ;  always 
by  seed 
Lunaria,  Moonwort  or  Honesty 
Mallow  (Tree) 

Red 

Scarlet 

Purple 

Red,  white-bordered 

Party-colored 

Variegated 

Painted  Lady 

Double  of  each 

Mule,  or  Mongrel  Sweet-william, 
or  Mule  Pink 
Tree  Mallow  (Lavatera  aj-borea) 
Tree  Primrose 
Night  Stock 


Poppy,  Yellow-horned   [Chelidonium 

glaucum) 
Rocket,  Dame's  violet 

Single  white 

Double  white 

Double  purple 

Single  purple 
Rose  Campion 

Red 

White 
Scabius,  double 

Dark  purple-flowered 

Dark-red 

White 

Starry  purple-flowered 

Starry  white 

Jagged-leaved  starry 
Stock  Gilliflower 

Brompton 

Queen 

Twickf;nham 
Sweel-william 

Common  upright  tall  yellow 

Small-flowered 
Wall-flower 

Yellow-flowered 

Bloody 

White 

Double  of  each 
Petunia 

White 

Lilac 


When  you  make  youi'  seedling-bed  or  nursery,  cover  it  over 
with  straw,  or  fern,  or  matting,  during  frost ;  and  to  prevent  the 
birds  pecking  up  the  seeds,  it  is  requisite  to  protect  the  bed  by 
strewing  hght  boughs  of  thorn  bushes  over  it,  or  fixing  a  net 
upon  sticks  as  a  covering,  till  the  plants  appear.  If  cats,  dogs 
or  poultry  intrude  into  the  flower  garden,  it  is  in  vain  to  hope  for 
enjoyment. 

Sow  your  biennial  seeds  in  March,  April,  or  May.  I  recom- 
mend May,  because  the  young  plants  in  thnt  month  germ  and 
3 


50  liADIES'   FLOWER  GARDENER. 

vegetate  quickly,  surely,  and  without  requiring  defcinses  from  the 
frost.  Plant  them  out  in  October,  -with  a  ball  of  earth  to  each 
root,  -where  they  are  to  remain. 

The  Stock  Gilliflowers  in  particular,  having  long,  naked  roots, 
must  be  planted  out  very  young,  otherwise  they  do  not  succeed 
well. 

Honesty  is  a  very  early,  rich-flowering  biennial,  which  requires 
no  care ;  they  shed  their  seed,  rise,  and  flower  without  any  assist- 
ance, in  profusion.  The  only  trouble  is  to  weed  it  out  of  the 
beds,  that  they  may  not  stand  in  the  way  of  other  flowers. 

Canterbury  Bells  are  handsome  flowers,  and  will  bloom  a  lon^ 
time,  if  you  cut  off"  the  bells  as  they  decay. 

The  deep  crimson  Sweet-williams  are  mofit  esteemed ;  though 
every  variety  looks  well. 

Sweet-williams  may  be  increased  by  layers  and  cuttings,  which 
is  the  only  sure  way  of  securing  the  sorts  you  like  ;  for  you  may 
sow  seed  every  year,  and  not  one  in  a  thousand  will  reward  you 
by  coming  up  double. 

Carnations  are  the  pride  of  a  garden,  and  deserve  great  care 
and  attention.  The  common  sorts,  which  are  planted  in  borders, 
should  have  a  good  rich  earth  about  them,  and  be  treated  like 
the  pink ;  but  the  finer  s»rts  should  always  be  potted,  to  protect 
and  shelter  the  plant  from  hares,  rabbits,  heavy  rains,  and  severe 
frost  in  the  winter.  Refresh  the  top  of  the  pots  with  new  soil  in 
June,  and  keep  the  plants  free  from  decayed  leaves.  Gently  stir 
the  earth  round  each  plant  occasionally ;  and  as  plants  in  pots 
require  more  water  than  if  placed  in  the  ground,  let  the  carna- 
tions be  gently  moistened  about  every  other  day  during  dry  wea- 
ther. Let  the  watering  take  place  in  the  evening  ;  no  flower  will 
endure  being  watered  during  the  heat  of  a  summer's  day.  Car- 
nations love  sand  and  salt  in  proper  proportions.  Tlie  brine  which 
is  deposited   upon  the  compost  heap  will  answer  every  purpose 


HOLLYHOCKS.  51 

of  salts,  (if  it  be  regularly  carried  out),  without  adding  common 
salt:  but  let  this  be  particularly  attended  to.  The  cook  should 
deposit  her  pickle  and  brine  to  good  purpose  upon  the  compost 
heap,  instead  of  splashing  it  down  in  front  of  her  kitchen  dooi-. 

Let  each  plant  be  well  staked,  and  neatly  tied  to  its  supporter ; 
and  do  not  allow  two  buds  to  grow  side  by  side  upon  the  same 
stem,  for  one  will  weaken  the  other.  Pinch  off  the  smaller  bud. 
vJarnations  love  warmth  ;  therefore  give  them  a  sunny  aspect  to 
blow  in.  The  seedling  plants  may  be  treated  like  young  pinks, 
but  this  difference  must  be  observed — pinks  love  shade,  and  car- 
nations love  warmth.  A  bed  of  carnations  is  a  beautiful  object. 
The  pots  can  always  be  sunk  in  a  border  or  bed  in  fine  Aveather. 
Carnations  may  be  layered,  or  piped,  or  slipped  for  propagation. 

Water  your  carnations  in  pots  once  a  week  with  lime  water,  if 
they  appear  drooping,  for  this  proceeds  from  a  worm  at  the  root ; 
but  the  brine  will  destroy  all  insects  quickly,  when  poured  upon 
the  compost  heap. 

In  propagating  double  Wall-flowers,  take  slips  of  the  young 
shoots  of  the  head  :  this  will  perpetuate  the  double  property  and 
color  of  the  flower,  from  which  they  were  slipped.  In  saving 
seed  for  wall-flowers,  choose  the  single  flowers,  which  have  five 
petals  or  flower  leaves.     Double  flowers  have  no  seed. 

Water  the  slips,  and  keep  them  shady  and  moist :  they  will 
root  by  September. 

Plant  your  Hollyhocks  in  September  or  October,  where  they 
are  to  remain.  Hollyhocks  are  a  noble  flower,  and  they  love  a 
strong  soil.  Let  a  succession  of  these  flower  plants  be  attended 
to  in  the  biennial  seed-bed.  Keep  them  some  inches  apart  from 
each  other  in  the  seedhng-bed,  for  they  form  large  straggling 
roots.  The  hollyhock  looks  well  in  clumps  of  three,  at  a  good 
distance  apart,  in  large  gardens  or  shrubberies,  but  they  are 
somewhat  too  overgrown  for  smaller  parterres. 


62  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

Be  particular  in  gathering  your  seeds  on  a  fine,  dry  day,  and 
put  each  sort  in  a  separate  brown  paper  bag  till  yoa  require 
them.  The  very  finest  seedlings  are,  after  all,  those  which  spring 
near  the  mother  plant  from  self-sown  seed,  therefore,  when  you 
weed  or  dig  your  flower  borders,  be  careful  not  to  disturb  any 
seedlings  which  may  have  sprung  up.  They  always  make  strong, 
fine  blooming  plants. 

Take  care  of  your  double-flowering  plants  in  winter.  The 
double  wall-flower  is  hardy  enough  to  exist  in  the  borders,  but 
the  other  double  biennials  deserve  to  be  sheltered,  for  double 
flowers  are  very  handsome,  and  heavy  rains,  snow,  or  severe  frost, 
injures  them.     Take  cuttings  every  year  from  them. 

The  Night  Stock  is  tolerably  hardy  if  sheltered  during  the 
frost  by  ashes  or  litter.  The  sweetness  after  night-fall  must 
recommend  it  to  all  the  lovers  of  fragrant  flowers. 

PROPAGATING    BIENNIALS. 

Every  young  lady  must  become  acquainted  with  the  manner 
of  operating  upon  plants,  to  preserve  the  finer  sorts,  which  they 
may  wish  to  perpetuate.  Raising  from  seed  is  slow,  but  it  pro- 
duces infinite  variety.  You,  however,  rarely  see  the  same  flower 
produced  twice  from  seed  ;  therefore  you  must  propagate  the 
biennial  and  perennial  flowers  by  layers,  slips,  pipings,  and  cut- 
tings, if  you  wish  to  preserve  any  particular  sorts. 

To  efi'ect  layers,  prepare  some  rich,  light  earth,  a  parcel  of 
small  hooked  sticks,  or  little  pegs,  and  a  sharp  penknife. 

Now  clear  the  ground  about  the  plant  you  are  going  to  layer ; 
stir  the  surface  well  with  your  trowel,  and  put  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  the  prepared  mould  round  the  plant  as  will  raise  the  sur- 
face to  a  convenient  height  for  receiving  the  layer. 

Cut  off  the  top  of  each  shoot  with  your  knife,  about  twc  inches, 


PROPAGATING  BIENNIALS.  53 

and  pull  off  the  lower  leaves ;  then  fix  upon  a  joint  about  the 
middle  of  the  shoot,  and,  j^kcing  your  knife  under  it,  slit  the 
shoot  from  that  joint,  rather  more  than  half  way  up,  towards  the 
joint  above  it. 

Now  make  an  opening  in  the  earth,  and  lay  the  stem,  and  slit 
or  gashed  shoot,  into  it,  and  peg  it  down ;  taking  care  to  raise 
the  head  of  the  shoot  as  upright  as  you  can,  that  it  may  grow 
shapely  ;  tlien  cover  it  with  the  new  mould,  and  press  the  mould 
gently  round  it.  Do  this  by  each  shoot  till  the  plant  is  layered — ■ 
that  is,  till  every  shoot  is  laid  down.  They  must  be  watered 
often  in  dry  weather,  but  moderately,  not  to  disturb  or  wash 
away  the  soil  round  the  layeis.  In  six  weeks'  time,  each  gashed 
or  sht  shoot  will  have  rooted,  and  become  a  distinct  plant.  They 
may  be  taken  away  from  the  old  parent  stem  in  September,  and 
dug  up  with  a  ball  of  earth  round  each  root,  to  be  transplanted 
into  the  plots  or  borders  where  they  are  to  remain. 

Carnations,  pinks,  sweet-williams,  double  wall-flowers,  &c.,  are 
the  flowers  most  deserving  of  layers. 

Piping,  which  belongs  almost  exclusively  to  carnations  and 
pinks,  is  a  most  expeditious  mode  of  raising  young  plants. 

Take  off  the  upper  and  young  part  of  each  shoot,  close  below 
a  joint,  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  cut  each  off  at  the  third  joift,  or 
little  knob  ;  then  cut  the  top  leaves  down  pretty  short,  and  take 
off  the  lower  and  discolored  ones.  When  you  have  piped  in  this 
way  as  many  as  you  require,  let  them  stand  a  week  in  a  tumbler 
of  water,  which  greatly  facihtates  their  doing  well.  Indeed,  I 
never  failed  in  any  pipings,  slips,  or  cuttings,  which  I  allowed  to 
soak  and  swell  in  water  previous  to  planting.  When  you  plant 
the  pipings,  let  the  ground  be  nicely  dug,  and  raked  very  fine  ; 
dibble  no  hole,  but  gently  thrust  each  piping  half  way  down  into 
the  soft  earth,  slightly  pressing  the  earth  round  each,  to  fix  it  in 
the  bed.     Water  them  often  if  the  weather  is  dry,  but  moder- 


54  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

ately,  just  to  keep  them  moist ;  and  shade  them  from  the  hot  sun 
in  the  day.  If  pipings  are  covered  Avith  a  hand-glass,  thev  root 
earlier,  by  three  weeks,  than  those  which  are  exposed. 

Laying,  piping,  and  slipping,  are  done  in  June  and  July.  The 
plants  will  be  well  rooted,  and  fit  to  plant  out,  in  October. 

The  operation  of  slipping  is  easy.  Tear  the  top  shoots  of  the 
plant  to  be  so  propagated,  gently  from  their  sockets ;  hold  the 
shoot  between  your  finger  and  thumb,  as  near  the  socket  as  you 
can,  and  it  will  tear  as  easily  and  neatly  as  you  carve  the  win^ 
of  poultry  or  game.  Place  the  slips  in  water  for  a  few  days 
previous  to  planting  them,  like  pipings.  They  will  root  in  six 
weeks  or  two  months,  if  kept  shady  and  moist. 

Cuttings  must  be  made  of  shoots  of  the  last  year's  growth  of 
roses,  honeysuckles,  &c.,  and  plaiited  in  February.  Choose  the 
strong  shoots,  and  do  not  cut  them  less  than  six  inches  long. 
Cut  them  with  your  knife  in  a  slanting  direction.  Plant  them  in 
a  shady  place,  each  cutting  half  way  in  the  ground,  which  should 
be  cleaned,  and  well  dug  and  raked,  to  receive  them.  Cuttings 
made  in  February  will  root  well  by  October. 

Cuttings  of  flower  stalks,  such  as  scarlet  lychnis,  should  be 
done  in  May,  June,  and  July.  Take  cuttings  from  the  youngest 
flo\i^r  stems,  and  plant  them  carefully  in  nice  mould,  like  pip- 
ings. These  flower  cuttings  should  be  in  lengths  of  four  joints 
each.  Covering  them  with  a  hand-glass  raises  them  very  quickly. 
They  root  in  two  months. 

Where  hand-glasses  are  not  to  form  any  part  of  a  lady's 
arrangements,  oil-papered  frames  are  equally  useful.  I  have 
seen  very  economical  and  useful  frames  made  of  bamboo,  in  the 
form  of  hand-glasses,  covered  neatly  with  glazed  white  cotton  or 
linen,  or  horn  paper,  made  by  a  lady  with  great  celerity  and  in- 
genuity ;  and  her  cuttings  and  pipings  succeeded  under  them 
adiairaWy.      Whatever  shelters  cuttings  apd  pipings  from  the 


PROTECTION   FOR   CUTTINGS.  56 

rays  of  the  sun  effects  a  material  purpose.  Linen  is  the  best 
shelter  in  the  world  from  heat,  but  oiled  or  horn  paper  resists 
rain  better. 

Dr.  Piiestley  is  of  opinion  that  salt  water  is  very  efficacious  for 
cuttings,  if  they  are  placed  in  it  for  a  few  days  previous  to  plant- 
ing. He  remarks  that  it  is  a  custom  with  the  importers  of  exotic 
plants  to  dip  cuttings  in  salt  and  water,  otherwise  they  would 
perish  on  the  passage. 


ladies'  flower  gardener. 


CHAPTER  V. 


ANNUALS. 


f^SNNUALS,  as  I  have  observed  before,  are  flowers  that 
1^  rise,  bloom,  and  die  in  the  same  year ;  and  must  there- 
fore be  raised  from  seed  every  year. 

The  first  class  of  annuals,  being  veiy  delicate,  and  requiring 
great  care,  with  the  constant  assistance  of  glass  frames,  I  shall 
not  even  name,  since  they  do  not  enter  into  the  nature  of  my 
"work. 

I  proceed  to  the  second  class,  whicb  are  hardier  than  the 
above,  though  they  should  be  raised  in  a  warm  border,  and 
be  covered  with  a  hand-glass,  if  you  wish  them  to  flower  in  good 
time. 

The  ten  weeks'  Stocks  will  grow,  if  sown  in  a  warm  border, 
towards  the  end  of  March,  and  should  be  afterwards  transplant- 
ed ;  but  if  brought  up  in  a  hot-bed,  they  will  flower  a  month  or 
six  weeks  earlier. 

The  China-aster,  Chrysanthemum,  white  and  purple  Sultan, 
African  and  French  Marigolds,  Persicarias,  &c.,  will  grow  Avell  in 
a  warm  border  of  natural  earth,  if  sown  in  April ;  but  they  also 
flower  a  month  earlier  if  they  are  assisted  by  a  hot-bed  or  glass. 
These  annuals  must  be  all  planted  out  when  tolerably  strong,  into 
the  spots  where  they  are  destined  to  remain  in  the  borders,  tak- 
ing care  to  allow  to  each  plant  plenty  of  space,  that  they  may 
not  crowd  each  other.  The  China-aster  branches  into  many 
stems  and  lowers,  therefore  they  may  be  planted  singly,  or  not 


ANNUALS.  57 

less  than  six  inches  apart.  The  July  flowers,  or  more  commonly 
called  gilliflowers,  become  expansive  as  they  increase.  They 
should  not  be  crowded  together;  three  in  a  group  are  quite 
sufficient,  and  they  should  be  six  inches  apart.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  the  stock  varieties. 

I  have  ever  found  the  hardy  annuals  grow  finest  by  allowing 
them  to  become  self-sown.  They  flower  some  weeks  earlier,  and 
invariably  produce  larger  and  brighter  flowers. 

When  gathering  my  flower  seeds  in  August  and  September,  I 
allow  one  half  to  remain  sprinkled  over  the  borders ;  and  the 
young  plants  never  fail  appearing  healthy  and  strong  above 
ground  in  March  and  April,  the  months  appropriated  to  sowing 
the  seed.  Thus,  my  Lavateras,  Larkspurs,  &c.,  are  in  beautiful 
blow,  while  the  second  crop,  or  seeds  sown  in  spring,  are  but 
showing  their  green  heads  above  the  surface.  I  weed  away  the 
superfluous  self-sown  plants  to  my  taste ;  but  the  birds  take  care 
that  no  one  shall  be  encumbered  with  a  superfluity.  I  have  by 
this  means  a  first  and  second  crop  of  the  same  annuals,  but  the 
crop  of  self-sown  are  far  superior.  They  are  up  before  the  heats 
come  on,  to  dry  the  earth,  and  dwindle  the  flower. 

Dig  the  ground  well  with  your  trowel,  and  rake  it  very  fine, 
before  you  put  in  the  seeds  in  spring.  Anmxals  love  a  light, 
friable  soil.  All  the  hardy  kinds  may  be  sown  in  March,  each 
sort  in  little  separate  patches,  as  follows  : — ■ 

Draw  a  little  earth  oft'  the  top  to  one  side,  then  sprinkle  in  the 
seed,  not  toe  plentifully,  and  cover  it  again  with  the  draAvn-ofF 
earth.  Half  an  inch  is  sufficient  depth  for  small  seed.  The 
larger  kind,  such  as  sweet-peas,  lupins,  &c.,  must  be  sown  an 
inch  in  depth.  When  the  plants  have  been  np  some  time,  thin 
them  well.  The  more  space  you  have,  the  finer  the  plants  will 
rise. 

The  hardy  annuals  will  not  bear  transplanting :  they  must  be 
3* 


58  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

left  to  flourish  Avbere  they  are  sown.  The  large  kinds,  such  as 
the  lavatera  or  mallow,  should  only  be  sown  in  groups  of  three 
plants  together.  The  lupin  tribe  should  not  exceed  five  plants  in 
a  group.  The  Convolvulus,  also,  requires  four  or  five  plants  only 
in  a  group.  Water  the  patches  in  dry  weather  moderately,  and 
be  careful  never  to  use  pump  water.  If  you  have  no  soft  water, 
a  tub  should  be  placed  in  the  garden  to  receive  rain  water ;  and 
if,  as  in  towns,  pump  water  must  be  chiefly  used,  let  it  remain  a 
day  or  two  in  the  tub,  to  soften  in  the  air  and  sunshine. 

The  first  week  in  April  is  the  safest  period  for  sowing  annuals, 
as  the  cutting  winds  have  ceased  by  that  time,  and  frost  is  not  so 
much  to  be  apprehended.  The  soft  rains,  also,  fall  in  warm 
showers,  to  give  life  and  germ  to  seeds  and  plants,  and  they 
appear  in  a  shorter  space  of  time. 

Those  ladies  who  live  in  the  vicinity  of  nursery  gardens  have  a 
great  advantage  over  the  more  remote  flower-fanciers.  They  can 
be  supplied,  at  a  trifling  expense,  with  all  the  tender  annuals 
from  hot-beds,  either  in  pots,  or  drawn  ready  for  immediate 
transplanting. 

If  you  do  not  raise  your  own  seed,  be  careful  how  you  pur- 
chase your  stock,  and  of  whom  you  receive  it.  Many  seedsmen 
sell  the  I'cfuse  of  many  years'  stock  to  their  youthful  customers, 
and  produce  great  disappointment.  ■  There  is  one  way  of  ascer- 
taining the  goodness  of  the  seed,  which  will  not  deceive.  Pre- 
vious to  sowing,  plunge  your  lupin,  sunflower,  &c.,  seeds  into  a 
tumbler  of  water :  the  good  seed  will  sink,  while  the  light  and 
useless  part  remains  floating  on  the  surface. 

If  you  grow  your  own  seed,  exchange  it  every  two  years  Avith 
your  neighbors.  Seeds  love  change  of  soil :  they  degenerate, 
if  repeatedly  grown  and  sown  upon  the  same  spot,  particularly 
sweet-peas. 

Sweet-peas  sho'dd  be  put  into  the  ground  early  in  March,  for 


ANNUALS.  59 

they  will  bear  the  wind  and  weather.  Make  a  circle  re  ind  a 
pole,  or  some  object  to  which  they  may  cling  as  they  rise  ;  and 
put  the  peas  an  inch  deep,  having  soaked  them  previously  in 
water  well  saturated  with  arsenic,  to  guard  them  from  the  depre- 
dations of  birds  and  mice.  Add  an  outer  circle  of  peas  every 
month,  so  that  a  continual  bloom  may  appear.  The  circle  first 
sown  will  ripen  and  pod  for  seed  in  the  center,  v/hile  the  outer 
vines  will  continue  flowering  till  late  in  the  autumn.  When  you 
have  gathered  a  sufficient  number  of  ripe  pods,  cut  away  all  the 
pods  which  may  afterwards  form  with  your  knife.  This  strength- 
ens the  vines,  and  throws  all  their  vigor  into  repeated  blooms. 

Be  very  careful  to  throw  away  the  arsenic  water  upon  your 
heap  of  compost,  and  do  not  put  that  powerful  poison  into  any 
thing  which  may  be  used  afterwards  in  the  house.  Soak  the 
peas  in  a  flower-pot  saucer  which  is  never  required  for  any  other' 
purpose,  and  keep  it  on  a  shelf  in  the  tool-house,  covered  up. 
Three  or  four  hours'  soaking  will  be  sufficient.  If  the  wind  and 
frosts  be  powerful  and  continued,  shelter  the  peas  through  March, 
by  covering  them  with  straw  or  matting  every  evening. 

I  have  got  sweet-peas  into  very  early  blow  by  bringing  them 
up  in  pots  in-doors,  and  transplanting  them  carefully  in  April, 
without  disturbing  the  roots.  In  doing  this,  push  your  finger 
gently  through  the  orifice  at  the  bottom  of  the  flower-pot,  and 
raise  its  contents  "  bodily."  Then  place  the  ball  of  earth  and 
plants  into  a  hole  troweled  out  to  receive  it ;  cover  it  round  gently, 
and,  if  the  weather  is  dry,  water  it  moderately. 

Ten-weeks'  Stock  is  a  very  pretty  annual,  and  continues  a  long 
time  in  bloom.  Mignionette  is  the  sweetest  of  all  perfumes,  and 
should  be  sown  in  September  for  early  blowing,  and  again  in 
March  for  a  later  crop.  It  is  always  more  perfumy  and  healthy, 
if  dug  into  the  ground  in  autumn  to  sow  itself.  Venus'  Looking- 
glass  is  a  very  pretf.y,  delicate  flower.     Indeed,  every  annual  is 


60 


LADIES     FLOWER   GARDENER. 


lovely ;  and  the  dift'erent  varieties  give  a  gay  and  lich  appearance 
to  the  flower  garden  during  the  three  summer  months. 

The  Clarkias  are  very  pretty  annuals,  with  a  hundred  other 
varieties  lately  introduced,  and  which  are  all  specified  in  Mrs. 
Loudon's  new  work  upon  annuals.  My  plan  is,  to  give  a  general 
idea  of  their  treatment  only,  under  the  classification  of  hardy 
annuals,  or  those  annuals  which  may  be  nurtured  without  a  hot- 
bed. 

Keep  your  annuals  from  looking  wild  and  disorderly  in  a 
garden  by  allotting  the  smaller  kinds  their  separate  patches  of 
ground ;  and  trim  the  larger  annuals  from  branching  among  other 
flowers.  For  instance,  cut  away  the  lower  branches  of  the  China- 
aster,  the  African  marigold,  &c.,  and  train  the  plsnt  erect  and 
neatly  to  a  slight  rod  or  stick ;  cut  away  the  flowers  as  they 
droop,  reserving  one  or  two  of  the  finest  blooms  only  for  seed  : 
and  let  each  plant  look  clean  and  neat  in  its  own  order.  By 
cutting  away  flowers  as  they  droop,  the  plant  retains  vigor 
enough  to  continue  throwing  out  fresh  flowers  for  a  long  peiiod. 


SECOND,    OR    LESS    TKNDER    CLASS    OF    ANNUALS. 


African  Marigold,  the  orange 

Yellow 

Straw-colored 

Double  of  each 

Double-quilled 
French  Marigold,  the  striped 

The  yellow 

Sweet-scented 
China-aster,  the  double 

Double  purple 

Double  white 

Double-striped 
Marvel  of  Peru,  the  red  striped 

Yellow-striped 

Long-tubed 
Chrysanthemum,  the  double  white 

Double  yellow 

Double-quilled 
Svr.et  Sultan,  the  yellow 


White 

Red 
Indian  Pink,  double 

Single 

Large  imperial 
^Ikekengi 
Pahna  Chi'isti,  the  common 

Tall  red-stalked 

Smaller  green-leaved 

Smallest 
Tobacco,  long-leaved  Virginia 

Broad-leaved 

Branching  perennial 
Love  Apple,  with  red  fruit 

With  yellow  fruit 
Gourds,  the  round  smooth  orange 

Rock,  or  warfed 

Pear-shaped  yellow 

Pear-shaped  striped 


ANNUALS. 


61 


Stone  colored 

Bottle  Gourd,  some  very  large,  from 
two  or  three  to  five  or  six  feet 
long,  and  of  various  shapes 

Momordica  Balsamina 

Persicaria 

Indian  Corn,  the  tall  Dvifarf 

Nolana  prostrata,  blue 

Convolvulus,  scarlet- flowered 

Yellow  Balsam,  or  Touch-me-not 

Capsicum,  long  red  podded 
Long  yellow-podded 
Red,  short,  thick,  roundish  podded 
With  heart-shaped  pods 
With  cherry-shaped  fruit,  red 
Cherry-shaped  fruit,  yellow 

Basil,  the  common,  or  sweet-scented 
Bush  basil 


Zinnia,  red 

Yellow 
Jlmaranthis 
Tree  Amaranihus 

Prince's  feather  amaranthus 

Love-lies-bleeding  amaranthus 
Cannacorus,  yellow 

Red 
Chinese  Hollyhock,  the  variegated 
Ten-ivcck  Stock  Gillifiower 

The  double  red 

Double  white 

Double  purple 
White  Ten-week   Stock,  with  a  wall- 
flower leaf 

With  double  and  single  flowers 

The  double  of  this  sort  makes  u 
pretty  appearance 


The  following  are  hardy  annuals,  requh'ing  no  assistance  of 
artificial  heat,  but  should  all  be  sown  in  the  place  where  it  is 
designed  they  shall  flower : — 

jldjnis  Flower,  or  Flos  Adonis,  the 
red-flowering 

The  yellow 
Candytuft,  the  large 

Purple 

White 
Larkspur,  the  double  rose 

Double-branched 

Large  double  blue 

Double  white 
Lupitis,  the  rose 

Large  blue 

Small  blue 

Yellow 

White 

Scarlet 

Marbled 
Sunflower,  the  tall  double 

Double  dwarf 
Lavatera,  red 

White 
Poppy,  the  double  tall  striped  car- 
ration 

Dwarf-striped 

Double  corn  poppy 

H  Jined  poppy 


Convolvulus,  major 

Minor 

Striped 

White 

Scarlet 
Ketmia  bladder 
Starry  Scabius 
Hawkweed,  the  yellow 

Purple,  or  red 

Spanish 
Carthamus    tinctorius,     or    saffron 

flower 
Nasturtium,  the  large 

Small 
Cerinthe  major,  or  great  Honey-worl 
Tangier  Pea 
Sweet  Pea,  the  painted  lady 

The  purple 

White 

Scarlet 
Winged  Pea 
Crowned  Pea 

Nigclla,  or  devil  in  a  busV   the  long 
blue,  or  Spanish 

The  white 

Oriental  mallow,  C'c'.c<t 


62 


ladies'    flower   GARDEISrER. 


Venetian  mallow 
LobePs  Catchjly,  white  and  red 
■drbiscus 
Pimpernel 
Dwarf  Lychnis 
Venus'' s  Navel-ivort 
Venus' s  Looking-glass 
Virginian  Stock 
Strawberry  Spinach 
Noli  me  iangcrc,  or  Touch-me-not 
Heart's  Ease 
Snail  Plant 

Large  ditto 
Caterpillar  Plant 
Hedgehog  Plant 

Antirrhinum,  snap-dragon,  ;he  annual 
Nolana,  blue 
Cyanus,  or  corn-bottle,  th?  red 

White 

Blue 
Eoman  Nettle 

Bclvidere,  or  summer  cypress 
Garden,   or   common,   Mangold,    the 
common  single 

Dcuble  orange 


Double  lemon-colored 

Double  lemon-colored  ranunculus 
marigold 
Annual  Cape  Marigold,  with  a  violet 

and  white  flower 
Mignionctte,  or   reseda,  the   sweet- 
scented 

The  upright 
Xeranthemum,  or  eternal  flower,  red 

and  white 
Purple  Clary 
Purple  Jacobcea 
Dracocephalum,  the  purple 

Blue 
Capnoidcs,  or  bastard  fumitory 
Ten- week  Stock  Gillijiowers,  in  variety 
Persicaria 
Tobacco  Plant 

Long-leaved, 

Round-leaved 
Indian  Corn 
Atnethystea 
Globe  Thistle 
Clarkias 


ROSES  AND  JASMINES.  •  63 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ROSES    AND    JASMINES. 

^HESE  most  delicious,  most  elegant  flowers — in  themselves 
,%^  a  garden — are  worthy  of  a  chapter  devoted  exclusively 
to  their  culture.  What  cottage  exists  without  its  roses 
twined  around  the  doorway,  or  blooming  up  its  pathway  ? 
What  is  sentiment  without  its  roses  ?  W  hat  other  flower  illus- 
trates the  beauty  and  excellence  of  a  loved  one  ? — 

"  Oh !  my  love  is  like  the  red,  red  rose, 
That  sweetly  blows  in  June." 

Every  gentle  feeling,  every  exquisite  thought,  every  delicate 
allusion,  is  embodied  in  the  rose.  It  is  absurd  to  say  the  rose  by 
any  other  name  "  would  smell  as  sweet."  It  is  not  so.  Poetry, 
painting,  and  music,  have  deified  the  rose.  Call  it  "  nettle,"  and 
we  should  cast  it  from  our  hands  in  disgust. 

There  are  innumerable  varieties  of  roses,  from  the  cottage  rose 
to  the  fairy  rose,  whose  buds  are  scarcely  so  large  as  the  bells  of 
the  lily  of  the  valley.  Mrs.  Gore  mentions  some  hundreds  of 
sorts,  but  such  a  catalogue  is  too  mighty  to  insert  in  my  little 
work.  I  will  name  only  the  well-known  hardy  kinds,  and  refer 
my  reader  to  Mrs.  Gore  herself  for  the  complete  collection.  Seed 
yields  such  inexhaustible  varieties,  that  a  new  list  will  be  required 
every  ten  years. 

The  Damask  rose  is  very  useful  from  its  properties,  as  well  as 
its  beauty  and  hardihood.  Rose-water  is  distilled  from  this 
bright,  thickly-blowing  flower 


64  ladies'  flower  sardenek. 

The  CaWa^c  roses  is  the  most  beautiful,  as  well  as  the  most 
fragrant  of  roses.  All  others  are  varieties  of  roses,  but  this  grand 
flower  is  the  "  rose  itself." 

It  throws  out  suckers  plentifully  for  propagating  its  kind  ;  and 
every  two  or  three  years,  the  root  of  each  bush  will  part  into 
separate  plants.  Cut  the  roots  slanting  with  a  sharp  knife  as 
you  divide  them.  A  very  small  bit  of  root  is  sufficient  for  a  rose- 
bush, as  they  are  hardy  in  their  nature.  Do  not  move  roses 
oftener  than  you  can  help :  they  delight  in  being  stationary  for 
years. 

In  pruning  roses  of  every  description,  which  should  be  effected 
in  January,  shorten  all  the  shoots  to  nine  inches  only,  and  cut 
away  all  the  old  wood,  which  becomes  useless  after  two  or  three 
years'  growth.     This  treatment  insures  fine  flowers. 

Roses  love  a  good  soil,  as,  indeed,  what  flower  does  not  ? 
Fresh  mould  apphed  to  them  every  two  or  three  years,  or 
manure  dug  round  them  annually,  preserves  them  in  constant 
vigor  and  beauty. 

Shoots  of  rose-bushes  laid  down  and  pegged  like  layers,  only 
"without  gashing,  when  the  flowers  are  in  bloom,  will  root  and 
become  plants  in  the  autumn.  Pinch  ofi"  their  buds,  that  they 
may  throw  their  strength  into  their  roots, 

Roses  are  often  observed  to  change  their  color,  which  efiect 
proceeds  chiefly  from  bad  soil.  When  this  occurs,  manure  the 
root  of  the  bush  or  plant.  A  clay  soil,  well  dressed  with  ashes, 
is  the  best  of  all  soils  for  the  hardy  roses. 

Moss  roses  love  a  cool  soil  and  a  cool  aspect.  They  soon  fade 
in  a  hot  sun. 

A  pyramid  of  climbing  roses  is  a  beautiful  object  in  a  garden. 
Iron  or  wooden  stakes,  twelve  feet  in  height,  gradually  approach- 
ing each  other,  till  they  meet  at  the  top,  with  cHmbing  roses 
trained  up  their  sides,  is  a  pleasing  and  easily  constructed  orna- 


ROSES  AND   JASMINES.  65 

raent.  Fancy  and  taste  may  range  at  will  in  inventing  forms  to 
ornament  the  parterre  with  roses.  Beds  of  roses,  raised  pyramid- 
ally, have  a  splendid  effect.  When  the  flowers  die  away  in  the 
autumn,  the  mass  may  be  clipped  again  into  form,  with  the 
garden  shears,  as  you  wjuld  clip  a  laurel  hedge. 

Standard  roses,  which  are  so  much  in  fashion  at  this  time,  and 
which  always  remind  one  of  a  housemaid's  long  broom  for  sweep- 
ing cobwebs,  are  beyond  a  lady's  own  management,  as  budding 
is  a  tronJjlesome  business,  and  very  frequently  fails.  I  will  not, 
therefore,  touch  upon  that  subject. 

The  double  yelloio  rose  is  very  elegant.  It  requires  a  western 
aspect,  and  even  prefers  north  and  east,  but  a  warm  aspect  in- 
jures its  beauty.  It  loves  a  good  substantial  soil,  and  will  not 
bear  much  cutting  or  removing.  Let  it  alone  in  its  glory,  only 
pruning  away  the  old  scraggy  wood  occasionally,  to  strengthen 
the  plant. 

The  monthly  rose  is  also  a  lover  of  the  north  and  east.  It 
blooms  through  the  autumn  and  winter,  has  an  evergreen  leaf, 
and  loves  a  strong  soil.  It  must  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  and 
parting  the  roots,  as  it  never  throws  up  suckers.  Prune  away 
the  old  wood,  and  make  cuttings  in  June,  July,  and  August,  of 
the  branches  you  clear  away.  Plant  the  cuttings  in  loose,  moist 
earth,  and  do  not  let  them  bud  till  the  following  year.  Let  the 
cuttings  be  sunk  two  joints  in  the  earth,  leaving  only  one  exposed. 
The  monthly  rose  climbs,  or  creeps. 

The  Austrian  briar,  or  rose,  will  not  flower  if  exposed  to  the 
south.  It  bears  a  rich  mass  of  flowers,  yellow  outside,  and  deep 
red  within.     Give  it  an  eastern  or  western  aspect. 

The  perpetual,  or  "  four-season "  rose,  requires  a  rich  soil. 
The  flower  buds  appearing  in  June  or  July  should  be  pinched 
off,  and  in  winter  the  plant  may  be  pruned  as  closely  as  its 


66  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

hardier  companions.  Place  the  four- season  rose  in  a  sheltered 
situation  from  winds. 

Among  the  hardy  climbing  roses,  the  Ayrshire  rose  is  the  most 
useful.  Its  foliage  is  rich,  and  it  covers  fences,  walls,  &c.,  wich 
astonishing  rapidity.  It  flowers  in  July.  Place  it  in  a  wirm 
situation,  and  it  will  extend  thirty  feet  in  one  season. 

Lady  Banks's  yelloiv  rose  is  a  pretty  climber,  and  flowers  early 
in  all  situations.     So  does  the  Rosa  sempervirens. 

Climbing  roses  will  grow  luxuriantly  under  the  shade  of  trees, 
and  form  a  mass  of  fragrant  underwood  in  shrubberies.  They 
grow  with  surprising  vigor  if  allowed  to  remain  prostrate.  Plant 
these  thinly,  and  lay  in  the  most  vigorous  shoots,  by  pegging 
them  down  into  the  ground.  This  process  increases  the  plants 
rapidly,  and  gives  the  gayest  possible  effect. 

The  Rosa  hyhrida  multifiora  is  a  hardy  and  rapidly  growing 
rose.  It  flowers  also  from  June  to  September.  So  does  the  red 
and  crimson  Boursault,  and  the  Rosa  Russeliana. 

Roses  are  subject  to  the  green  fly,  which  disfigures  their  beauty, 
particularly  the  white  roses.  An  excellent  remedy  for  this  annoy- 
ance is  effected  by  moistening  the  plant,  and  then  dusting  it  over 
with  equal  portions  of  sulphur  and  tobacco  dust. 

The  following  list  of  roses  will  not  prove  beyond  a  lady's  man- 
agement,  being  hardy,  and  requiring  only  pruning  every  January, 
and  giving  them  a  good  soil.  Prune  the  white  rose-trees  very 
sparingly,  as  they  do  not  love  the  knife : — 


Roses,  early  cinnamon 
Double  yellow 
Singlf  yellow 
Red  monthly 
White  monthly 
Double  white 
Moss  Provence 
Common  Proven  "3 
Double  velvet 


Single  Ditto 

Dutch  hundred-leaved 

Blush  ditto 

Blush  Belgic 

Red  ditto 

Marbled 

Large  royal 

York  and  Lancaster 

Red  damask 


ROSES  AND  JASMINES.  67 

Blusb  ditto  Virgin,  or  thornless 

Austrian,  with  flowers  having  one  Common  red 

side  red  and  the  other  yellow  Burnet  leaved 

White  damask  Scotch,  the  dwarf 

Austrian  yellow  Striped  Scotch 

Double  musk  |  Apple-bearing 

Royal  virgin  Single  American 

Rosa  mundi,  i.  e.,  rose  of  the  world,  Rose  of  Meux 

or  striped  red  rose  l  Pennsylvanian 

Frankfort  Red  cluster 

Cluster  blush  Burgundy  rose 

Maiden  blush  i  Perpetual,  or  four-season 


HARDY    CLIMBING    KOSES. 


The  Ayrshire  rose 

Double  ditto 
Rose  hybrida  multiflora 
Rose  Clair 
Rosa  Russeliana 
Re  versa  elegans 


Rosa  sempervirens,  three  sorts 

Rose  ruga 

Red  Boursault 

Crimson  ditto 

Lady  Banks'  yellow  rof^e 


JASMINES. 


Jasmines  grow  in  very  irregular  foims.  Perhaps  their  luxuri- 
ant wild  appearance  constitutes  their  chief  grace.  The  jasmine 
is  a  beautiful  screen  in  summer,  wreathing  its  festoons  through 
trellis-work ;  and  it  appears  to  me  that  Nature  presents  not,  in 
our  colder  climes,  a  more  fragrant  and  beautiful  bouquet  than  a 
mixture  of  roses  and  jasmines. 

The  common  jasmine  is  hardy,  and  loves  a  good  soil,  by  which 
t^;rm  I  mean  kitchen  garden  soil.  Trench  round  the  stem  occa- 
sionally to  lighten  the  earth,  and  it  will  grow  very  freely.  Put 
litter  round  the  jasmine  in  severe  frost ;  and  if  a  very  rigorous 
season  destroy  the  branches,  the  root  will  be  saved,  and  its  shoots 
in  the  spring  will  soon  replace  the  loss.  If  they  shoot  out  with 
displeasing  irregularity  and  confusion,  take  off  the  least  healthy 
looking  branches,  and  cut  away  those  which  grow  rumpled,  for 
they  only  consume  the  juices  of  the  plant  to  no  purpose.  The 
common  jasmine  is  propagated  by  layers  and  slips. 


68  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

The  Arabian  jasmine  is  very  fragrant,  but  it  does  net  endure 
cold,  or  much  heat,  therefore  an  eastern  aspect  suits  it  best.  If 
the  Arabian  jasmine  is  grown  in  a  large  pot  or  box,  it  could 
be  placed  under  cover  during  frost  in  the  winter  months  ;  but  do 
not  place  it  in  a  green-house,  which  would  be  in  the  other  ex- 
treme again. 

^\iQ  yellow  jasmine  m-Aj  he  treated  like  the  common  jasmine. 
It  is  not  very  fragrant,  but  it  forms  an  elegant  variety. 

I  have  seen  very  fanciful  and  beautiful  devices  invented  to  dis- 
play the  beauty  of  the  jasmine.  Their  shoots  grow  so  rapidly 
and  luxuriantly,  that  if  the  plant  is  allowed  to  luxuriate,  it  Avill 
soon  cover  any  frame- work  with  its  drooping  beauty.  The  jas- 
mine loves  to  hang  downwards  ;  and  I  have  admired  inventive 
little  arbors,  where  the  plant  has  been  trained  up  behind  them, 
and  the  branches  allowed  to  fall  over  their  front  in  the  richest 
profusion,  curtained  back  like  the  entrance  of  a  tent.  The  effect, 
during  their  time  of  flowering,  was  remarkably  elegant. 

When  you  prune  the  jasmine,  cut  the  brandies  to  an  eye  or 
bud,  just  by  the  place  from  Avhich  they  sprout,  and  that  in  such 
a  manner,  that  the  head  when  trimmed,  should  resemble  the  head 
of  a  willow.  This  method  makes  them  throw  out  abundance  of 
branches  and  fine  flowers. 

Give  fresh  soil  to  the  jasmine  every  two  years,  or  they  will 
gradually  become  weakened  in  their  blooms.  The  secret  of  hav- 
ing fine  flowers  is  in  keeping  up  the  soil  to  a  regular  degree  of 
strength,  as  the  human  frame  languishes  under  change  of  diet, 
and  becomes  weakened  for  want  of  food.  Thus  it  is  with  animate 
and  inanimate  nature. 


EVEEGREEN   SHRUBS.  69 


CHAPTER  VII. 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS   AND    EVERGREENS. 

SHALL  speak  now  of  the  ornamental  shrubs  which  de- 
corate a  flower  garden,  and  which  a  lady  may  superintend 
herself,  if  her  own  physical  powers  are  not  equal  to  the 
fatigue  of  planting.  A  laborer,  or  a  stout  active  girl,  may  act 
under  her  orders,  and  do  all  that  is  necessary  to  be  done,  in 
removing  or  planting  flowering  shrubs  and  evergreens. 

In  planting  flowering  shrubs,  be  very  particular  to  plant  them 
at  such  distances  that  each  plant  may  have  plenty  of  room  to 
grow,  and  strike  out  their  roots  and  branches  freely.  If  shnibs 
are  crowded  together,  they  become  stunted  in  growth,  and  lanky 
in  form. 

If  you  are  forming  a  clump,  or  even  a  plantation,  let  each 
shrub  be  planted  six  feet  apart  from  its  neighbor :  but  if  you 
wish  to  plant  roses,  syringas,  honeysuckles,  lilacs,  &c.,  in  your 
flower  borders,  they  should  be  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  distant 
from  each  other,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  flowers  growing 
below  them. 

Do  not  plant  tall  shrubs  promiscuously  among  low-growing 
ones.  Let  the  taller  shrubs  form  the  back-grounds,  that  each 
shrub  may  be  distinctly  seen.  The  shrubs  should  be  trained  up 
with  single  stems,  and  they  shouM  be  pruned  every  year, 
taking  up  the  suckers,  and  removing  disorderly  branches. 

By  allowing  each  shrub  plenty  of  room,  it  will  form  a  hand- 
some head,  and  throw  out  vigorous  shoots.     You  will  also  have 


70  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

space  to  dig  between  the  shrubs,  and  the  sun  and  air  can  benefit 
them. 

Some  of  the  more  beautiful  evergreens  look  extremely  well 
dotted  about  the  grounds  singly  or  in  clumps,  but  be  very  parti- 
cular in  planting  your  shrubs. 

For  instance,  when  you  wish  to  transplant  or  plant  a  shrub, 
dig  a  circular  hole  sufficiently  large  to  receive  the  roots  of  the 
plant,  which  must  be  laid  neatly  down,  while  some  person  holds 
the  shrub  in  its  proper  position,  straight  and  upright.  Cut  away 
any  dead  or  damaged  roots  ;  then  break  the  earth  well  with  your 
spade,  and  throw  it  into  the  hole,  shaking  the  plant  gently,  just 
to  let  the  earth  fall  close  in  among  the  roots.  When  it  is  well 
filled  up,  tread  the  earth  gently  round  the  shrub  to  fix  it,  but  do 
not  stamp  it,  as  I  have  seen  people  do. 

But  if  you  can  take  up  shrubs  with  a  ball  of  earth  round  their 
roots,  they  do  not  feel  the  operation,  and  their  leaves  do  not 
droop.  Water  each  shrub  after  planting :  give  each  of  them  a 
good  soaking,  and  let  each  plant  have  a  stake  to  support  it  dur- 
ing the  winter. 

October  is  the  autumn  month  for  transplanting  shrubs,  and 
February  and  March  are  the  spring  months.  I  always  prefer  the 
autumn  transplanting,  as  the  rains  and  showers  are  so  fructifying. 
March  is  the  last  month  for  transplanting  evergreens. 

Laurustinus,  Phillyreas,  and  Laurel,  are  excellent  shrubs  to 
plant  near  buildings,  or  to  hide  a  Avail.  They  are  evergreen 
summer  and  winter,  very  hardy,  and  quick  growing. 

The  Pyracantha  is  an  elegant  shrub,  with  its  clusters  of  red 
berries  ;  and  it  looks  gay  during  the  autumn  and  winter. 

The  Arbutus,  or  strawberry  tree,  is  loaded  with  its  strawber- 
ries in  August,  September  xnd  October.  This  is  a  beautiful 
shrub,  placed  singly  on  a  lawn,  kept  to  one  single  clean  stem, 
rtud  a  fine  branching:  head. 


EVEKGREEN  SHRUBS.  71 

Portugal  laurels  are  beautiful :  their  deep  green  leaves,  and 
scented  feathery  flowers,  make  them  an  important  shrub  ;n  all 
gardens. 

It  has  been  ascertained  by  the  late  severe  winter,  that  ever- 
greens are  extremely  hardy,  and  will  bear  any  severity  of  frost. 
All  those  evergreens  considered  most  tender,  such  as  Portugal 
laurels,  rhododendrons,  &c.,  were  observed  to  brave  the  frost  un- 
hurt, which  were  placed  in  high  unsheltered  places,  or  facing  the 
east  and  north.  It  was  observed,  also,  that  those  evergreens 
were  destroyed  whose  aspect  was  south  and  west,  and  which  lay 
in  warm  and  sheltered  situations.  The  cause  was  this.  The 
shrubs  did  not  suffer  which  were  not  subject  to  alternations  of 
heat  and  cold ;  while  those  which  lay  in  warm  situations,  being 
thawed  by  the  sun's  rays  during  the  day,  could  not  endure  the 
sudden  chill  of  returning  frost  at. night. 

Plant  your  evergreens,  therefore,  fearlessly  in  exposed  situa- 
tions ;  and  care  only,  in  severe  winters,  for  those  which  are  likely 
to  be  thawed  and  frozen  again  twice  in  twenty-four  hours. 

Rhododendrons  are  very  beautiful  shrubs,  and  grow  into  trees^ 
if  the  soil  agrees  with  them.     They  love  a  bog  soil. 

The  Caraelia  japonica  is  considered  a  green-house  plant,  but  it 
becomes  hardy,  like  the  laurel,  if  care  is  taken  to  shelter  it  for  a 
few  winters,  when  it  gradually  adapts  itself  to  the  climate.  Thi? 
is  troublesome,  perhaps,  as  most  things  are,  to  indolent  people  ; 
but  the  trouble  is  well  repaid  by  the  beautiful  flowers  of  the 
japonicas,  its  dark  leaves,  and  delicate  scent. 

The  gum  Cistus  is  a  handsome  evergreen,  and  looks  well  any- 
where and  everywhere.  Some  straw  htter  spread  round  their 
roots  in  winter  is  a  great  protection. 

All  evergreens  of  a  hard-wooded  nature  are  propagated  rapidly 
by  layers  in  June  or  July.  This  is  the  method  : — Dig  round  the 
tree  or  shrub,  a'ld  bend  down  the  pliable  branches ;  lay  them 


72  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

into  the  earth,  and  secure  them  there  with  hooked  or  forked 
sticks.  Lay  down  all  the  young  shoots  on  each  branch,  and 
cover  them  with  earth  about  five  inches  deep,  leaving  the  tops 
out  about  two,  three,  or  four  inches  above  ground,  according  to 
iheir  different  lengths.  If  these  branches  are  laid  in  June  or 
July,  they  will  root  by  Michaelmas  ;  but  if  they  are  laid  in 
October,  they  will  be  a  twelvemonth  rooting. 

The  layers  of  Alaternuses  and  Phillyreas  will  sometimes  be 
two  years  rooting,  if  done  so  late  as  October  ;  therefore  lay  down 
your  shoots,  if  possible,  in  June.  Let  the  shoots  which  are  lay- 
ered be  those  of  the  last  summer's  growth. 

You  may  propagate  shrubs  also  from  cuttings  in  February  and 
October.  Let  strong  shoots  be  chosen,  of  last  summer's  growth : 
choose  them  from  nine  to  fifteen  inches  long,  and,  if  you  can,  take 
about  two  inches  of  old  wood  with  the  shoots  at  their  base.  Trim 
oflf  the  lower  leaves,  place  the  cuttings  half  way  in  the  ground, 
and  plant  them  in  a  shady  border  to  root.  Do  this  in  February, 
in  preference  to  October,  as  everything  roots  earlier  from  spring 
operations.  You  may  also  plant  cuttings  in  June,  but  keep  them 
moist  and  shady. 

October  is  a  good  month  for  taking  up  suckers  of  lilacs,  roses, 
&c.,  and  for  all  sorts  of  transplanting  in  its  varieties.  It  is  also 
the  month  to  transplant  the  layers  of  such  shrubs  as  were  laid  in 
the  previous  October. 

I  subjoin  a  list  of  hardy  deciduous  shrubs  and  evergreens,  not 
too  tall  to  admit  into  a  moderately  sized  flower  garden : — 

DECIDUOUS    SHRUBS    OF    LESSER    GROVV'TH. 

Arbutus^  Strawberry  tree  ]  Almond^  common 


Common 
Double-flowering 
Red-flowering 
Eastern,  oi  Andrachne 


White-flowering 
Early  dwarf,  single  llowei 
Double  dwarf 
AHhoea  fnilcx.,  striped 


E \'EiiG k::k:>'  ?iir> u bs. 


73 


Red 

White 

Blue 

Purple 

Pheasant's  eye 
.  indromeda^  striped 

Evergreen 
Azalea,  with  rtd  flowers 

White 
Bsibcrnj^  common,  red  fruit 

Stoneless,  red  fruit 

White  fruit 
Bladder-nut^  three-leaved 

Five-leaved 
Broom,  the  Spanish 

Double-flowering 

Yellow  Portugal 

White  Portugal 

Lucca 
Bramble,  double-flowering 

American  upright 

White-fruited 

Dwarf 

Thornless 
Chi(ynantkus,Fnnge,  or  Snowdrop  tree 
Candkberry  Myrtle,  broad-leaved 

Long-leaved 

Fern-leaved 

Oak-leaved 
Cherty.  double-blossomed 

Cornelian 

Dwarf  Canada 
Currant,  with  gold  and  silver-blotch- 
ed leaves 

With  gooseberry  leaves 

Pennsylvanian 
Dogwood,  the  common 

Virginia 

Great-flowering 

Newfoundland 
Empelrum,  black-berried  heath 
Guelder  Rose,  common 

Double,  or  snowball 

Carolina 

Gold-blotched  leaf 

C^irrant-leaved 
Hydrangea,  white-flowering 
Honeysuckle,  early  red  Italian 

Early  white  Dutch 

Late  Dutch 

Late  red 


Long-blowing 

Large  scarlet  trumpet 

Small  trumpet 

Oak-leaved 

Early  white  Italian 

Early  red  Italian 
Ivy,  deciduous,  or  Virginian  creeper 
Jasmine,  the  common  white 

Common  yellow  Italian 

Gold-striped  leaved 

Silver-striped  leaved 
Lilac,  blue 

White 

Purple,  or  Scotch 

Persian,  with  cut  leaves 

Persian,  white-flowered 

Persian,  blue-fiowertj 
Lonkera,  upright  Honeysuckle 

Red-berried 

Blue-berried 

Virginian 

Tartarian 
Mezcrcon,  white 

Early  red 

Late  red 

Purple 
Mespilus,  spring-flowering 

Lady  Hardwick's  shrub 
Peach,  double-flowering 
Privet,  common 

Silver-striped 

Yellow-blotched  leaves 
Ptclea,  or  American  Shrub  Trefoil 
Pomegranate,  single-flowering 

Double 
Robinia,  or  false  Acacia 

Common 

Yellow-flowered 

Scarlet-flowered,  or  rose  acacia 

Caragana 
Rhamnus,  or  Buckthon. 

Common 

Sea  buckthorn 

Yellow-berried 

Creeping  evei'greeii 
Raspberry,  double-lioweimg 

Virginian  sweet-flowering 
Rose,  in  every  variety 
SpiriEU  frutex.^  common  red 

Scarlet 

White 


74 


ladies'  flower  gardenek. 


Si-umach,  scarlet 

Large  downy 

White 

Virginia 

Elm-leaved 

Myrtle-leaved 

Carolina 
Syringa,  common 

Dwarf  double-flowerin 
Scorpion  Senna 


Smitax,  broad-leavec 

Blotched-leaved 
Tulip  Tree 
Tamarisk,  the  Fref^;i 

German 
Viburnum,  or  Way/arer 

Common 

Stripe-leaved 

American  broad-leaved 

Maple-leaved 


EVERGREENS. 


Alaternus,  common 

Blotched-leaved 

Jagged-leaved,  plain 

Ditto,  striped 

Silver-striped 

Gold-striped 
Cisius,  or  Rock  Rose 

Gum  Cistus,  with  spotted  flowers 

With  plain  white  flowers 

Purple  sage-leaved 

Male  Portugal 

Bay-leaved  gum 

With  hairy  willow  leaves 

Black  poplar-leaved 

Waved-leaved 

Purple,   or    true    Gum   Cistus    of 
Crete,  with  other  varieties 
Jytisus,  Neapolitan 

Canary 

Siberian  and  Tartarian 
Laurustinus.  common 

Broad,  or  shining-leaved 

Rough-leaved 

Oval-leaved 
Bay,  broad-leaved 

Narrow-leaved 
Phillyrea,  the  true 

Broad-ieaved 

Privet-leaved 

Prickly-leaved 

Olive-leaved 

Gold-edged 

Silver-edged 

Rosemary  edged 
Juniper,  common 

Swedish 

Sclavonian 


Canada 
Jasmine,  evergreen 

Fyracanlha 
Ivy,  ccmmon 

Striped-leaved 

Virginian 

Irish,  or  quick-growing 
Honeysuckle,  evergreen 
Rose,  the  evergreen 
Rhododendron,  dwarf  Rose  Bay 
Kalmia,  olive-leaved 

Broad-leaved 

Thyme-leaved 
Coronilla,  narrow-leaved 

Broad-leaved 
Magnolia,  laurel-leaveil 

Lesser  bay-leaved 
Arbor  VitcB,  common 

China 

American 
Cypress,  commorj  upright 

Male  spreading 
Bignonia,  the  evergreen 
Widow  Wail 
Locust  of  Montpelier 
Medicago,  Moon  Trefoil 
Stonecrop  Shrub 
Ragwort,  the  sea 
Holly,  the  common 

Carolina  broad-leaved 

Yellow-berried 

Many  varieties 
Laurels,  common 

Portugal 

Alexandrian 
i  Ocik,  Ilex,  or  evergreen 

Ke.'mes,  or  scarlet-bparii);. 


EVERGREEN   SHRUBS. 


T5 


Gramuntian,  holly-leaved 

Carolina  live. 
Germander,  shrubby,  of  Crete 
Euonymus,  evergreen  Virginia 
Virginia  Groundsel  Tree 


Wormwood,  lavender-leaved 
Spurge,  or  wood  laurel 
Knecholm,  or  Butcher's  Broom 
Horse-tail,  shrubby 


In  pruning  shrubs,  be  careful  to  cut  out  the  long  rambling 
shoots  of  the  last  summer's  growth,  which  disfigures  their  appear- 
ance. Cut  away,  also,  branches  of  shrubs  which  interlace  each 
other,  that  every  shrub  may  stand  clear  and  well-defined.  Take 
away  their  suckers,  and  let  each  shrub  be  kept  to  a  single  stem, 
as  I  have  before  observed. 


76  ladies'  flowek  gardenee. 


CHAPTER  vni. 

ON    HOUSE    AND    WINDOW    GARDENING. 

(bT   sir.   CHARLES   MACKINTOSH.) 

iHE  culture  of  flowering  and  sweet-scented  plants,  as  orna- 
ments in  human  dwellings,  has  been  practiced  from  such 
remote  antiquity  that  no  one  can  name  the  date  of  its 
origin.  House  plants  are  also  a  kind  of  ornaments  which  all  the 
labors  of  the  most  refined  art  can  never  exceed  or  even  reach  ; 
and  hence  in  the  most  refined  and  luxurious  states  of  society, 
flowers  maintain  a  high  place  among  the  leading  ornaments  ;  and 
the  assembly-rooms  of  beauty  and  fashion,  and  the  banqueting- 
halls  of  the  noble  and  the  great,  would  look  tame  and  barren 
without  those  most  beautiful  and  most  appropriate  decorums. 

Farther,  it  is  one  of  the  great  merits  of  these  lovely  produc- 
tions of  nature,  that  they  are  for  the  humble  as  well  as  for  the 
high.  The  humblest  winduw  in  the  most  obscure  and  crowded 
court  of  a  city  may  have  its  flower-pot ;  and  they  who  are  cut 
off  by  occupation  or  other  circumstances  from  the  free  range  of 
growing  nature,  may  still  command  a  little  vegetable  kingdom  of 
their  own  in  a  few  well-selected  and  carefully-attended  flowers. 

A  species  of  ornament,  which  is  in  its  own  nature  so  pleasing 
and  so  innocent,  which  requires  far  less  labor  and  expense  than 
many  other  ornaments  of  very  inferior  value,  and  which  adapts  itself 
to  every  imaginable  class  of  society,  is  surely  worthy  of  the  study, 
the  encouragement,  and  the  cai'e  of  all  who  seek  happiness  to 
themselves,  or  wish  to  promote  the  happiness  of  others. 


HOUSE   PLANTS.  17 

That  there  is  no  want  of  love  for  such  plants  is  evident  from 
the  places  in  which  they  appear ;  but  the  kind  and  state  of  the 
plants  very  g  nerally  show  that  there  is  a  great  want  of  know- 
ledge, both  in  their  selection  and  their  management.  In  order 
to  contribute  a  little  to  the  supplying  of  this  defect,  we  propose 
to  offer  a  very  brief  compendium  of  what  the  French  and  Ger- 
mans call  "  Window  Gardening  ;"  and  in  order  to  render  what 
we  state  as  clear  as  possible,  we  shall  divide  it  into  several  heads, 
or  points. 

PLANTS  PROPER  FOR  WINDOW  CULTURE. 

As  the  situation  of  these  plants  is  different  from  what  they 
occupy  in  their  natural  state,  it  becomes  necessary  to  select  such 
as  are  capable  of  accommodating  themselves  to  circumstances  ; 
and  as  the  unfavorable  circumstances  of  house  plants  are  chiefly 
want  of  free  and  pure  air,  and  of  light,  and  in  those  species  which 
are  accustomed  to  long  seasons  of  repose  in  the  winter,  to  uniform 
temperature,  these  circumstances  must  be  kept  in  mind  in  the 
selection.  Rooms,  especially  in  crowded  cities,  are  the  most 
unnatural,  and,  on  that  account,  the  very  worst  situations  in 
which  plants  can  be  placed  ;  and  therefore,  if  healthy  plants  and 
an  abundance  of  bloom  are  sought  for,  variety  must  be  saciificed. 

Plants  which  will  continue  healthy  for  a  long  time  in  the  con- 
fined air  of  rooms,  are  generally  those  which  have  a  peculiar 
surface,  or  texture  in  the  foliage  :  such  are  many  of  the  Aloes, 
Cactuses,  Mesembryanthemums,  among  what  are  called  succulent 
plants  ;  and,  in  a  higher  temperature,  some  of  the  curious  Epi- 
■phytoc,  or  the  natural  order  Orchidece.  We  recollect  once  seeing 
a  very  interesting  collection  of  more  than  two  hundred  species, 
growing  in  a  high  state  of  perfection,  in  the  house  of  an  amateur 
of  succulent  plants,  living  in  the  Grand  Sablon  at  Brussels.     The 


78  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

room  containing  them  was  fitted  up  mucli  in  the  same  way  as  an 
ordinary  hbrary,  with  abundance  of  light  shelves  round  the  walls, 
and  a  large  table  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  on  which  were  placed 
the  pots  containing  the  plants.  At  night,  the  room  was  lighted 
up  by  an  elegant  glass  lamp,  and  it  was  heated  by  one  of  those 
ornamental  stoves  which  are  so  common  on  the  Continent.  Alto- 
gether, it  had  a  very  handsome  appearance. 

The  Chinese  are  very  attentive  to  the  house  culture  of  many 
of  the  orchideous  epiphytse,  and  thereby  greatly  increase  the 
beauty  and  the  fragrance  of  their  apartments ;  they  have  them 
in  ornamental  vases  and  baskets,  and  even  suspended  in  the  air, 
where  they  last  for  many  years  and  flower  beautifully.  Some  of 
them  continue  in  flower  for  many  months,  and  difi^use  the  most 
delightful  fragrance  during  the  night.* 

The  reason  why  the  succulent  and  epiphytous  plants  answer 
so  well  for  house  culture  is,  that  their  winter  is  one  of  drought 
and  not  of  cold,  and  that  the  latter  especially  have  little,  and 
some  of  them  no  mould  at  the  roots  in  their  natural  situations. 
But  there  has  been  hitherto  a  prejudice  against,  or  at  all  events 
an  ignorance  of,  and  want  of  attention  to,  the  culture  of  succu- 
lent plants  in  this  country.  This  is  unwise ;  for  many  of  them 
are  exceedingly  beautiful,  highly  fragrant,  and  better  adapted  for 
house  culture  than  any  plants  whatever.  They  are  singularly 
curious  and  varied  in  their  structures  ;  and,  generally  speaking, 
they  require  less  light,  air,  and  moisture,  than  other  plants. 

Next  to  them,  in  point  of  eligibility  for  house  culture,  may  be 
reckoned  such  plants  as  have  coriaceous  leaves,  that  is,  have  their 
leaves  firm,  and  with  a  smooth  and  compact  epidermis, — such  as 
oranges,  pittosporums,  myrtles,  and  others  of  similar  texture ; 
these  are  found  to  have  organs  much  better  adapted  to  confined 

*  Ri-nanthera  coccinea  is  one  of  the  finest  of  these,  and  was  first  tJowereJ 
in  this  :ountry  by  the  author  of  this  paper. 


HOUSE   PLANTS.  79 

air  than  plants  which  have  the  leaves  small  or  of  delicate  texture. 
Some  tribes,  as  the  heaths,  the  Epacrideoe ,  and  the  whole  race  of 
pinnate-leaved  and  papilionaceous  flowered  plants,  are  wholly 
unfit  for  house  culture. 

TREATMENT  OF  HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Water,  heat,  air,  and  light,  are  the  four  essential  stimulants  to 
plants  ;  water,  heat,  and  air,  to  promote  growth  ;  and  light  to 
render  that  growth  perfect. 

Water,  heat,  and  air,  man  can  command  at  his  pleasure  by 
artificial  means  ;  but  over  light,  as  an  element  of  the  perfect 
growth  of  plants,  we  have  less  control.  To  be  beneficial  to  plants, 
light  must  come  directly  from  the  sun  ;  and  therefore  the  plants 
should  be  so  placed,  as  that  it  may  act  upon  them  with  as  little 
as  possible  of  that  refraction  and  decomposition  which  it  suffers 
when  it  passes  obHquely  thi'ough  glass,  or  any  other  medium 
except  the  air.  Plants  grown  in  the  open  air,  and  with  such  free 
exposure  to  the  light  as  their  habits  require,  not  only  develop  all 
their  parts  in  their  proper  form,  but  their  leaves,  flowers,  and 
fruits,  have  their  natural  colors,  odors,  and  flavors.  Plants  ex- 
cluded from  light  have  not  their  natural  color,  odor,  nor  flavor, 
they -make  little  or  no  charcoal  in  the  woody  part,  the  leaves  are 
not  green,  and  if  they  do  flower  and  fruit,  which  is  rarely  the 
case,  the  flowers  are  pale  and  scentless,  and  the  fruit  is  insipid. 
This  has  been  proved  by  many  experiments,  of  which  the  blanch- 
ing of  celery  and  endive  by  earthing  up,  and  that  of  a  cabbage 
by  the  natural  process  of  hearting,  are  familiar  instances.  A 
geranium  placed  in  a  dark  room  becomes  first  pale,  then  spotted, 
and  ultimately  white ;  and  if  brought  to  the  light  it  again  ac- 
quires its  color. 

If  plants  kept  in  the  dark  are  exposed  to  the  action  of  hydrogen 
gas,  they  retain  their  green  color,  though  how  this  gas  acts  has 


80  ladies'  flower  gakdenek. 

not  been  ascertained.  Some  flowers,  too,  such  as  the  crocus  and 
tuhp,  are  colored  though  grown  in  the  dark. 

Light  seems  to  be  fully  as  essential  to  plants  as  air  or  heat,  and 
while  it  acte  beneficially  on  the  upper  surfaces  of  the  leaves,  it 
appears  to  bd  injurious  to  the  under  surfaces,  at  least  of  some 
plants ;  for  in  wliatever  way  a  plant  is  placed,  it  contrives  to  turn 
the  upper  surfaces  of  its  leaves  to  the  light.  Professor  Lindiey 
is,  we  believe,  making  some  experiments  on  this  subject. 

Plants  in  rooms  turn  not  only  their  leaves,  but  their  branches 
to  the  window  at  which  the  light  enters,  and  a  plant  may,  by 
turning  it  at  intervals,  be  made  to  bend  successively  to  all  sides ; 
but  such  bendings  weaken  the  plant,  and  thus  it  is  an  excessive 
or  unnatural  action.  This  turning  of  the  plant  to  the  light  is 
always  of  course  in  proportion  to  the  briglitness  of  that  lig-it  as 
compared  with  the  other  sides  of  the  plant.  Flowers,  too,  open 
their  petals  to  the  light,  and  close  them  in  the  dark,  or  in  oome 
cases,  as  in  that  of  the  crocus,  when  a  cloud  passes  over  the  sun. 
The  same  flower,  and  also  some  others,  will  open  their  petals  to 
the  light  of  a  lamp  or  candle,  and  close  them  again  when  that  is 
■withdrawn. 

It  follows  as  a  necessary  consequence,  that  in  rooms,  plants 
should  be  placed  as  near  the  window  as  possible,  that  the  win- 
dows should  have  a  south  exposure,  and  that  they  should  be  as 
seldom  as  possible  shaded  with  blinds  or  otherwise.  K  piaced 
at  a  distance  from  the  v/indows,  plants  should  be  frequently 
changed,  and  to  place  them  permanently  on  tables  or  man  el- 
shelves  is  bad  management. 

Air  is'as  necessary  to  the  health  of  plants  as  light ;  but  air  A\n 
find  its  way  where  light  cannot,  and  therefore  it  requires  less  c?re 
from  the  cultivator.  If  the  air  is  too  close,  opening  the  door  and 
windows  produces  a  change,  the  warm  air  escaping  at  top,  antl 
cold  air  coming  in  below  ;  but  on  opening  the  windows  of  a  warm 


HOUSE   PL.-y^TS.  81 

room  in  cold  ■wea:her,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  chill  the  plants 
by  leaving  them  in  the  cold  current. 

The  heat  of  ordinary  dwelling-houses  is  quite  enough  for  such 
plants  as  we  would  recommend  for  general  culture  in  rooms,  only, 
hi  very  cold  weather,  the  plants  should  be  removed  a  little  further 
from  the  windows.  The  blinds  and  shutters  are  usually  a  suffi- 
cient protection  during  the  night ;  and  we  may  remark  that  plants 
w  rooms  are  more  frequently  killed  by  too  much  heat  than  by  too 
much  cold. 

Spring  and  autumn  are  the  times  of  the  year  at  which  window 
plants  require  the  greatest  attention.  It  is  usual  to  have  the 
plants  outside  the  windows  even  diu'ing  the  night  in  the  summer 
season,  and  kept  in  the  house  both  night  and  day  in  the  winter 
season.  In  the  intermediate  seasons  of  spring  and  autumn  tha 
plants  are  frequently  placed  in  their  summer  situation  during  the 
day,  and  it  is  desirable  that  then  they  should  be  placed  in  their 
winter  situation  during  the  night.  Our  climate  is  so  variable  at 
those  seasons,  that  we  not  only  have  summer  during  the  day,  and 
winter  during  the  night,  but  whole  days  of  summer  and  winter 
alternating  with  each  other.  Sometimes  we  have  warmer  days  in 
April  than  in  May  or  June,  and  occasionally  we  have  more  severe 
frosts  in  the  beginning  of  September,  than  any  which  occur  again 
till  November  is  nearly  over.  Now  it  is  not  the  a'bsolute  heat  or 
cold,  but  the  rapidity  of  the  transition  from  one  to  the  other 
which  is  injurious  to  plants,  and  therefore  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
for  all  sucli  as  would  have  their  house  plants  in  the  perfection  ol 
beauty,  to  attend  to  those  circumstances.  This  is  more  especially 
necessary  in  towns,  where  the  people  are  much  less  interested  in 
the  changes  of  the  weather,  and  therefore  much  less  observant  of 
them  than  they  are  in  the  country ;  and  we  have  no  doubt  that 
more  plants  are  destroyed  from  want  of  attention  to  those  varia- 
ble periods  of  the  year  than  from  any  other  cause.     It  is  a  safo 


82  LADIES'  FLOWER   GARDENER. 

rule  to  trust  no  plant  less  hardy  than  a  common  Geranium  tiut- 
side  tJie  wuidow  all  night,  earlier  than  about  the  twentieth  of 
June,  or  later  than  the  first  of  September.  No  doubt  there  are 
many  nights  before  the  first  of  these  times,  and  after  the  latter, 
during  which  the  plants  might  remain  in  the  open  air  without 
injuiy.  There  is,  however,  no  knowing  what  a  night  may  bring 
forth  at  those  inconstant  seasons,  and  therefore  the  safe  plan  is 
not  to  leave  the  plants  to  chance. 

When,  as  often  happens,  plants  get  slightly  injured  by  rost, 
cold  water  should  be  sprinkled  on  them  before  the  sun  reaches 
them,  and  this  sprinkling  ought  to  be  continued  as  long  as  any 
appearance  of  frost  remains  on  the  foliage. 

Water  is  often  very  injudiciously  applied  to  plants  in  rooms, 
and  tlie  evil  arises  from  falling  into  the  opposite  extremes  of  too 
much  and  too  little.  Fear  of  spoiling  the  carpet,  forgetfulness, 
and  sometimes  a  dread  of  injuring  the  plant,  are  the  chief  causes 
of  an  under  supply  of  water.  On  the  other  hand,  many  have  a 
notion  that  sucli  plants  should  be  watered  every  day,  or  at  stated 
periods,  without  inquiring  whether  it  be  necessary  or  not.  Saucers 
or  pans  are  often  placed  under  flower- pots  to  prevent  the  water, 
■A^hich  escapes,  from  soiling  the  apartment,  but  in  these  cases  the 
saucers  should  be  partly  filled  with  gravel,  to  prevent  the  roots 
from  being  soaked  with  water,  or  the  water  which  lodges  in  the 
saucer  should  be  removed. 

Fanciful  and  elegant  baskets  of  wire  or  wicker-work,  and  plant- 
tables  are,  perhaps,  preferable  to  common  stages.  The  baskets 
should  have  a  pan,  of  zinc,  copper,  or  other  metal,  and  over  this 
a  bottom  pierced  with  holes,  or  a  grating  of  wire,  on  which  the 
pots  are  to  be  placed.  The  pan  is  generally  about  an  inch  deep, 
and  has  a  plug  or  other  contrivance  by  which  the  surplus  water 
may  be  drawn.  Plant- tables  can  be  constructed  in  the  same  man- 
ner, and  admit  of  an  endless  variety  of  forms,  according  to  the 


HOUSE  PLANTS.  83 

taste  of  the  owner.  In  either  of  these  the  pots  may  be  wholly 
concealed  by  green  moss,  or  cut  paper,  so  that  nothing  but  the 
plants  themselves  may  appear. 

Water  is  as  essential  to  the  whole  plant  as  it  is  to  the  roots,  be- 
cause they  are  hable  to  collect  diit,  and  thereby  to  be  injured; 
they  should,  therefore,  be  frequently  washed  over  with  a  syringe 
having  a  rose  to  it,  and  in  order  to  perform  this  operation  pio- 
perly,  the  plants  must  generally  be  removed  to  some  other  apait- 
ment  where  they  should  remain  till  they  are  dry.  In  winter  this 
operation  must  be  performed  in  mild  weather  only ;  it  should  be 
done  in  an  apartment  not  colder  than  that  in  which  the  plants 
■usuallj'-  stand,  and  the  water  should  be  about  milk  warm.  When 
the  plants  are  in  baskets  or  on  tables,  thej''  can  be  removed  and 
washed  without  deranging  their  order.  Plants  which  have  large 
and  leathery  leaves,  such  as  oranges,  pittosporums,  camellias,  and 
myrtles,  may  be  washed  with  a  sponge,  or  if  very  foul  they  may 
be  washed  with  soap,  and  the  soap  carefully  removed  by  pure 
water.  Loose  dust  may  be  removed  by  a  pair  of  bellows.  At- 
tention to  cleanliness  greatly  increases  the  vigor  of  the  plant. 

House  plants  are  greatly  benefited  by  being  placed  out  of 
doors  in  the  summer  months,  especiallj-  during  gentle  showeis  . 
and  such  as  have  no  other  convenience  may  advantageously  place 
them  outside  the  windows.  They  may  also  be  syringed  and 
washed  in  this  position,  and  if  the  owner  is  not  in  possession  of 
one,  a  common  watering-pot,  held  high,  so  that  the  water  may 
fall  on  the  plant  with  considerable  force,  is  a  tolerable  substitute. 

Plants  respire  by  their  leaves,  as  animals  do  by  their  breathing 
apparatus,  and  it  is  on  this  account  that  keeping  the  leaves  clean 
is  so  very  essential  to  the  health  of  plants.  Indeed,  the  dust 
which  collects  on  them,  and  interrupts  their  respiration,  is  one  of 
the  greatest  evils  which  can  befall  plants,  especially  in  rooms  and 
on  balconies  in  towns.     The  respiring  pores  are  generally  large 


84  ladies'  fj-oweu  gaedexee. 

in  proportion  as  the  leaves  are  so  ;  and  this  is  one  of  the  reasons 
why  delicate-leaved  plants  are  not  so  well  adapted  for  house  cul- 
ture as  those  which  have  the  leaves  larger  and  firmer. 

Light  has  also  a  considerable  effect  in  promoting  tlie  healthy 
action  of  leaves,  and  many  plants  fold  up  their  leaves  in  the  dark, 
or  even  when  the  sky  is  lowering.  This,  though  it  has  no  resem- 
blance to  sleep  in  animals,  has  been  called  the  sleep  of  plants, 
and  the  curious  reader  may  find  an  interesting  notice  of  it  in  the 
"  Amcenitates  Academicae"  of  Linnseus. 

THE    SUPPLY    OF    HOUSE    PLANTS. 

There  are  many  ways  of  doing  this  ;  but  to  those  who  have 
the  opportunity,  and  choose  to  be  at  the  expense,  there  is,  per- 
haps, none  better  than  that  of  contracting  for  the  year  with  some 
skilfull  and  respectable  nurseryman  ;  in  this  case  the  plants  will 
be  attended  by  the  contractor,  and  kept  in  the  best  condition. 
Much  pleasure  is,  however,  sacrificed  by  those  who  adopt  this 
mode,  inasmuch  as  the  chief  enjoyment  of  plants  arises  from  the 
feeling  that  they  are  the  nurslings  of  our  own  care  ;  and  it  is 
astonishing  how  strongly  the  judicious  treatment  of  plants  leads 
to  judicious  management  in  all  other  matters. 

Plants,  except  such  as  are  novelties  and  sought  only  by  the 
curious,  may  always  be  had  at  moderate  prices  from  respectable 
growers.  Covent  Garden  furnishes  an  abundant  supply  for  Lon- 
don, and  those  who  are  not  so  particular  may  have  them  of  the 
hawkers.  In  dealing  with  these  people,  some  care  is  however 
necessary  ;  very  many  of  the  plants  which  they  offer  for  sale  arc 
thrown  away  or  stolen,  and  in  both  cases  they  are  taken  up  with- 
out any  regard  to  the  preservation  of  the  roots,  and  thus  there  is 
a  considerable  chance  against  their  success.  Those  injured  plants 
^re  made  to  look  healthy  for  a  little  time  by  means  of  an  over 


HOUSE    PLANTS.  85 

supply  of  water,  but  they  soon  languish  in  the  possession  of  the 
purchasers. 

Another  veiy  hazardous  mode  of  purchasing  plants  is  at  those 
sales  which  are  very  frequently  got  up  in  the  spiing  and  autumn. 
At  these,  purchasers  have  no  security  that  the  plant  is  healthy, 
or  that  it  is  what  it  professes  to  be,  and  thus  they  often  pay  a 
higher  price  for  a  worthless  article  in  a  diseased  state,  than  a  re- 
gular nurseryman  would  charge  them  for  a  good  plant  in  the 
finest  condition.  Such  a  nurseryman  has  always  character  at 
stake,  but  the  other  parties,  generally  speaking,  have  none. 

MANAGEMENT    OF    BULBS    IN    GLASSES. 

This  is  a  favorite  mode  of  house  culture,  and  the  bulbs  best 
adapted  for  it  are  hj'acinths,  polyanthus-narcissus.  Van  Thol,  and 
other  tulips,  crocus,  Persian  iris,  narcissus,  colchicum,  Guernsey 
lily,  jonquil,  and  others. 

Spring-flowering  bulbs  are  usually  purchased  in  September, 
and  the  autumnal  ones  in  July  and  August,  and  the  largest  and 
best-formed  bulbs  should  be  chosen  ;  an  abundant  supply  may 
be  obtained  at  little  cost  at  the  seed-shops  and  nurseries.  To  be 
blown  in  winter  or  spring,  the  bulbs  are  placed  in  water  in  Octo- 
ber, and  so  on  in  succession  till  Febiuary  or  March ;  and  for 
autumn  and  early  winter,  they  are  placed  in  the  water  in  August 
and  September.  Dark-colored  glasses  are  the  best,  as  they  pre- 
vent the  light  from  decomposing  the  roots  of  the  plants.  Rain 
water  is  prefei'able  to  any  other,  and  it  should  be  changed  fre- 
quently, not  less  than  once  every  third  or  fourth  day,  to  prevent 
its  getting  putrid  ;  and  in  performing  this  operation  care  must  be 
taken  both  in  withdiawing  and  in  replacing  the  roots.  This  is 
necessary  only  till  the  flowers  have  expanded  ;  for  after  this  the 
plants  maj'  be  left  undisturbed  until  the  flowers  have  decayed. 


J6  LADIES    FLOWER   GARDENER. 

The  water  -which  is  supplied  must  not  be  colder  than  that  which 
is  withdra^^n,  or  than  the  general  temperature  of  the  apartment. 
Much  heat  is  not  necessary  for  such  plants,  because  tliey  flower 
better  the  more  slowly  their  vegetation  proceeds.  Chimney- 
pieces  and  other  warm  situations  are  not  nearly  so  well  adapted 
for  those  bulbs  as  stages  near  the  window,  or  the  window-sill 
itself. 

A  better  mode  of  growing  those  bulbs  than  the  common  mode 
in  glasses,  would  be  in  a  table  with  a  deep  pan,  and  a  wire  grat- 
ing on  the  top.  This  might  be  placed  about  nine  inches  from  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  and  the  roots  arranged  on  it,  the  tailer  ones 
in  the  center,  and  those  of  more  lowly  growth  towards  the  sides. 
The  water  in  the  pan  might  be  drawn  off  by  a  plug,  and  fresh 
water  supplied,  without  in  the  least  disturbing  the  plants. 

Bulbs  may  also  be  grown  in  fine  white  sand,  kept  constantly 
moistened,  and  in  this  way  very  beautiful  blooms  may  be  obtained. 

KOSEGAYS    AND    CUT    FLOWERS. 

Though  these  are  very  acceptable  to  most  persons,  there  art 
few  who  rightly  understand  the  art  of  keeping  them  long  in  a 
fresh  state,  or  of  reviving  them  when  they  have  faded.  It  is 
true,  that  when  a  flower  or  bi-anch  is  cut  off  from  its  parent  plant, 
its  support  is  thereby  destroyed  ;  but  still  some  flowers  may  be 
kept  in  great  beauty  for  a  mucli  longer  period  than  others,  and 
many  for  a  far  longer  time  than  is  generally  done,  or  even  sup- 
posed possible. 

For  this  purpose,  flowers  should  be  gathered  early  in  the 
morning,  but  not  till  the  dew  be  nearly  dried  off  tnem.  They 
should  be  placed  in  a  flat  basket,  or  on  a  tray,  so  as  not  to  press 
Upon  and  crush  each  other  ;  and  they  should  be  neatly  cut,  and 
not  mangled  or  bruised.     When  thus  gathered,  they  should  be 


HOUSE   PLANTS.  87 

covered  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  immediately  conveyed  to  the 
apartment  where  they  are  to  be  used,  if  that  apartment  be  near 
at  hand.  But  if  they  are  to  be  sent  to  any  distance,  they  should 
be  placed  in  tin  cases,  sucli  as  botanists  use  when  collecting  spe- 
cimens. We  have  sent  flowers,  in  such  cases,  for  several  hundred 
miles,  and  found  most  of  them  iu  good  condition  at  the  end  of  a 
journey  of  three  or  four  days'  continuance.  In  this  way  the 
Dutch  florists  send  specimens  of  their  finest  flowers  not  only  to 
England,  but  to  more  distant  parts  of  continental  Europe.  Our 
own  florists  send  to  the  metropolis,  for  competition  at  exhibitions, 
flowers  from  Cornwall,  from  the  north  of  England  and  from  Scot- 
land, and  they  arrive  without  the  least  decay.  They  are  placed 
in  wooden  or  tin  boxes,  having  an  internal  arrangement  of  small 
phials,  fixed  under  a  covering  of  tin  or  wood,  perforated  with 
holes,  just  large  enough  to  admit  the  stalks  of  the  flowers,  the 
ends  of  which  are  placed  in  the  water  of  the  phials,  and  in  this 
way  they  are  conveyed  with  perfect  safety. 

Flowers  should  not  be  cut  during  sunshine,  or  kept  exposed  to 
the  solar  influence  ;  neither  should  they  be  collected  in  large 
bundles  and  tied  tightly  together,  as  this  invariably  hastens  their 
decay.  When  in  the  room  where  they  are  to  remain,  the  ends 
of  the  stalks  should  be  cut  clean  across  with  a  very  sharp  knife 
(never  with  scissors),  by  which  means  the  tubes  through  which 
they  draw  the  water  are  left  open,  so  that  the  water  ascends 
freely,  which  it  will  not  do  if  the  tubes  of  the  stems  are  bruised 
or  lacerated.  An  endless  variety  of  ornamental  vessels  are  used 
for  the  reception  of  such  flowers,  and  they  are  all  equally  well 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  so  that  the  stalks  are  inserted  in  pure 
water.  This  water  ought  to  be  changed  every  day,  or  once  in 
two  days  at  the  furthest,  and  a  thin  slice  should  be  cleanly  cu', 
off  from  the  end  of  each  stalk  every  time  the  water  is  removed, 
which  will  occasion  fresh  action  and  reive  the  flowers.     Water, 


88  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

about  milk  warm,  or  containing  a  small  quantity  of  camphor,  will 
sometimes  revive  decayed  flowers.  The  best  method  of  applying 
this,  is  to  have  the  camphor  dissolved  in  spirits  of  wine,  for  which 
the  common  camphorated  spirits  of  the  druggists'  shops  will  be 
quite  sufficient ;  and  to  add  a  drop  or  two  of  this  for  every  half 
ounce  of  water.  A  glass-shade  is  also  useful  in  preserving  flowers  ; 
and  cut  flowers  ought  always  to  be  shaded  during  the  night,  and 
indeed  at  all  times  when  they  are  not  purposely  exhibited.  The 
following  are  some  of  the  genera  of  plants  the  flowers  of  which 
remain  longest  after  being  cut : — Gnaphalmm,^  Astelma,  Heli- 
chrysum,  Pkcenocoma,  Aphelexis,  and  others,  which  the  French 
have  designated  "immortal  flowers,"  from  remaining  unchanged 
by  decay,  hold  the  first  rank.  Next  to  these  come  the  whole 
natural  order,  Proteacece,  many  of  Graminece,  several  of  Cruciferce, 
several  in  Mhamneacce,  several  in  C'assuvice — the  genus  Acacia  in 
Leguminosce,  all  Calycanthacece,  most  of  Myrtaceoe^  most  of  Dip- 
sacece,  several  of  CompositcB,  most  of  Ericeoe — the  genei'a  Laven- 
dula,  S'lderitis  and  Phlomis,  in  Labiatce,  all  Oi'obanchece,  all 
Plumhaginece,  all  Amaranthacem,  many  of  Orchidece,  Strelitzia, 
and  Heliconia  in  Musacece. 

INSECTS    AND    DISEASES    OF    HOUSE    PLANTb. 

Plants  in  rooms,  especially  geraniums  and  roses,  are  very  liable 
to  be  attacked  by  aphides.  These  may  be  easily  removed  by 
tobacco  smoke  or  tobacco  water ;  and  where  the  smell  is  not 
offensive,  smoke  blown  from  a  common  tobacco  pipe  is  as  effec- 
tual as  any  other  method.  Camphorated  water  may  be  used  by 
those  who  dislike  the  smell  of  tobacco.  Mildew,  occasionally, 
though  raiely,  attacks  house  plants.  It  appears  like  a  white 
powder,  and  is  supposed  to  consist  of  minute  fungi ;  but  these 
fungi  are  not  the  original  disease,  but  its  consequences,  and  theii 


HOUSE    PLANTS.  89' 

appt'iirance  shows  that  the  plant  has  been  in  impure  air  or  olner- 
wise  improperly  treated.  Sulphur  or  camphor  will  efiectually 
remove  this  mildew  ;  and  a  scaly  insect  of  the  coccus  tribe,  which 
appears  occasionally  on  oranges,  camellias,  and  similar  plants, 
may  be  removed  by  a  sponge  and  water. 

Many  persons  have  a  dislike  to  plants  in  houses  as  being  un- 
Kealthy ;  and  as  this  dishke  is  in  a  great  measure  groundless,  we 
may  notice  it.  Dr.  Priestley  was  the  first  to  show  that  the  leaves 
of  plants  absorb  carbonic  acid  gas  by  their  upper  surfaces,  and 
give  out  oxygen  by  their  under  ones,  thereby  tending  to  purify 
the  air  in  as  far  as  animal  life  is  concerned  ;  because  carbonic  acid 
gas  is  pernicious  to  animals,  and  oxygen  is  what  that  hfe  acquires. 
It  is  in  the  light,  however,  that  these  operations  are  carried  on  ; 
for  in  the  dark,  plants  give  out  cai-bon  ;  and  this  may  be  one 
reason  why  plants  grown  in  the  dark  have  little  or  no  charcoal  in 
their  substance.  It  does  not  appear,  however,  that  any  of  the 
scentless  products  given  out  by  plants  are  injurious  to  human 
beings ;  because  those  who  live  among  accumulated  plants  are 
not  less  healthy  than  others  ;  though  many  persons  feel  dislike 
ind  even  pain  from  the  odors  of  particular  plants,  in  a  way  not 
very  easily  accounted  for. 

On  the  Continent  in  general,  and  in  France  and  Germany  in 
particular,  flowers  of  all  sorts,  but  particularly  the  most  fragrant, 
are  admitted  into  the  saloons,  chambers,  and  even  bed  rooms  of 
people  of  all  classes  ;  and  they,  rather  than  complain  of  any  ill 
3fiects  arising  from  their  presence,  complain  more  of  the  difficulty 
of  procuring  them  in  sufficient  abundance.  The  flowers  most  in 
demand  for  the  chambers  of  the  French  and  Germans  are,  oranges, 
jasmine,  carnations,  honey-suckle,  mignonette,  olive,  rocket,  rose, 
violet,  wall-flower,  rosemary,  stock,  lavender,  savory,  oleander, 
hyacinth,  lilac,  syringa,  heliotrope,  narcissus,  &c.,  all  sweet-smell 


90  LADIES*  FLOWER    3ARDENER. 

ing  flowers;    and  these  they  indulge   in  to  a  veiy  considerable 
extent. 

We  may  safely  conclude,  then,  that  plants  admitted  into  rooms 
to  the  extent  that  they  are  in  general,  can  produce  no  effect  in- 
jurious to  the  health  of  persons  in  general,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
•will  afford  amusement  to  the  mind  and  exercise  to  the  body,  both 
of  which  are  so  necessary  towards  the  enjoyment  of  good  health. 
The  mind  will  be  agreeably  exercised  in  contemplating  the  beaut'* 
of  the  flowers,  but  more  so  still  if  the  study  of  their  respectiv< 
parts,  natures  and  structures,  in  a  botanical  or  physiological  point 
of  view,  be  at  the  same  time  attended  to.  An  agreeable  and 
rational  exercise  will  be  provided  for  the  body,  if  the  proprietor, 
particularly  if  of  the  softer  sex,  take  the  entire  management  of  h'vr 
little  Wmdow  Garden  into  her  own  hands. 


DOMESTIC   GREE]SrHO^«SES.  91 


CHAPTER  IX. 


DOMESTIC    GREENHOUSES.' 


^^>^EFORE  entering  on  a  description  of  this  apparatus,  the 
^^•^  circumstances  under  which  it  was  discovered  may  be 
^-^-— '  briefly  adverted  to.  Mr.  Ward,  the  gentleman  to  whom 
we  are  indebted  for  the  discovery,  is  a  surgeon,  residing  in  Well- 
close  Square,  London.  From  his  earliest  youth  Mr.  Ward  has 
been  attached  to  botanical  pursuits  ;  but  living  in  a  densely  popu- 
lated neighborhood,  surrounded  with  manufactories,  and  enve- 
loped in  the  smoke  of  London  in  its  very  worst  form,  he  had  been 
compelled  to  give  up  the  cultivation  of  plants,  until  the  following 
simple  incident  seemed  to  point  out  a  mode  by  which  he  could 
follow  his  favorite  amusement  with  some  degree  of  success.  He 
had  buried  the  chrysalis  of  a  sphinx  in  some  moist  mould,  which 
was  inclosed  in  a  glass  bottle  covered  with  a  top.  In  watching 
the  bottle  from  day  to  day,  he  observed  that  when  exposed  to 
the  warmth  of  the  sun  the  moisture  rose  from  the  mould,  and 
became  condensed  on  the  inner  surface  of  the  glass,  and  again 
fell  back  upon  the  mould  during  the  night,  thus  keeping  up  a 
continual  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  within  the  glass  ;  he  also  ob- 
served about  a  week  prior  to  the  final  change  of  the  insect,  a 
seedling  fern  and  grass  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  mould. 
A-fter  having  secured  the  insect,  Mr.  Ward  set  himself  to  observe 

*  The  materials  for  this  paper  are  chiefly  from  Chambers's  Edinburgh 
Journal,  with  some  slight  additions  from  Mr.  Ellis's  paper  read  to  the  Bo- 
tanical Society  of  Edinburgh. 


92 


LADIES    FLOWER   GARDENER. 


the  development  of  these  plants  in  this  confined  situation.  He 
placed  the  bottle  outside  the  window  of  his  study,  where  the 
plants  continued  for  several  years  to  exhibit  a  healthy  vegetation, 
suggesting  at  the  same  time  further  experiments,  which  have  led 
to  a  most  extraordinary  result,  when  we  consider,  that  by  this 
simple  application  of  the  laws  of  nature  as  regards  atmosphere, 
the  most  forbidding  local  circumstances  may  be  overcome,  and 
that  any  person,  whether  inhabiting  the  most  humble  or  the  most 
splendid  dwelling,  provided  it  be  freely  exposed  for  a  few  hours 
every  day  to  the  sun's  light,  has  it  in  his  power  to  rear  and  cul- 
tivate a  miscellaneous  collection  of  plants,  to  enjoy  the  beauty  of 
their  appearance,  and  to  watch  their  progress  through  all  tlie 
stages  of  their  growth,  at  an  expense  so  insignificant  as  to  be 
within  the  means  of  every  man  even  in  very  moderate  circum- 
stances. 

To  do  this  he  must  provide  an  apparatus  consisting  of  a  box, 
a  stand,  and  a  glass  roof,  of  a  size  according  to  his  desires  and 
means.  We  shall  suppose  one  is  wanted  of  a  small  size  to  stand 
i:i  a  window  in  an  apartment  of  limited  dimensions.     The  stand. 


we  will  suppose,  is  one  foot  ten  inches  in  height,  the  box  whic 
is  to  contain  the  mould  eight  inches  and  a  half,  and  the  glass 
frame  cue  foot  seven  inches  and  a  half ; — in  all  four  feet  two  in- 


DOMESTIC   GREENHOUSES. 


93 


tnes  in  heig'tit  »)  fhree  feet  in  length  and  a  foot  and  a  half  in 
breath.  If  elegari;e  is  aimed  at,  the  box  should  be  made  of 
mahogany,  and  supported  on  four  legs,  furnished  with  movable 
castOJ's;  the  box  which  is  to  contain  the  soil,  eight  and  a  half  in- 
ches in  height,  shonld  be  made  of  well-seasoned  St.  Domingo 
mahogany,  steeped  in  Kyan's  composition,  for  a  fortnight ;  the 
sides,  one  and  a  quarter  inches  thick,  mitered  and  dove-tailed  to- 
gether at  the  corners.  The  bottom  of  the  box  should  be  Hon- 
duras mahogany,  one  inch  thick,  formed  of  numerous  small  pieces. 


framed  and  flush-paneled,  and  arranged  so  as  best  to  resist  the 
yielding  of  the  wood.  To  give  it  greater  strength,  two  cross 
pieces  or  ties  stretch  from  side  to  side  at  equal  distance  from 
each  other;  these  are  dove-tailed  on  each  side,  thus  dividing  the 
box  into  three  compartments,  but  leaving  open  spaces  imder  the 


94  I.ADIES'   FLOWER  GARDENER. 

ties  and  boles  through  their  centers  to  permit  the  moisture  to  per- 
colate freely  tlrough  the  whole  of  the  mould.  The  bottom  being 
properly  fitted,  the  sides  are  fixed  to  it  with  brass  nails — no  iron 
being  used  in  any  part.  When  completed  and  filled  with  plants, 
the  apparatus  appears  something  like  the  cut  on  p.  93. 

At  the  upper  edge  of  the  box  a  groove  is  sunk  to  receive  the 
lower  edge  of  the  glass  roof  which  rests  securely  in  it.  This 
groove  is  lined  with  brass ;  its  inner  lip  is  one  sixteenth  of  an 
inch  lower  than  the  outer,  and  at  each  end  is  a  notch  one  fifth  of 
an  inch  only  above  the  bottom  of  the  groove  to  allow  the  con- 
densed moisture  which  trickles  down  the  inside  of  the  glass  to 
flow  back  into  the  mould. 

The  frame-work  cover  of  which  we  have  now  to  speak  is  made 
of  brass,  with  a  door  on  one  side,  made  to  fit  close.  The  glass 
used  for  it  may  be  of  flattened  crown-glass  ;  that  for  the  dooi 
should  be  plate-glass.  The  panes  must  be  fitted  in  the  frames 
with  great  care,  and  with  a  putty  specially  made  for  the  purpose, 
which  should,  when  dry,  receive  three  coats  of  paint.  Along  the 
top  of  the  roof,  hooks  or  brass  rods  may  be  placed,  from  which 
small  pots  may  be  suspended.  The  whole  of  the  frame-work 
should  be  well  fitted,  and  nicely  put  together,  so  as  to  preclude 
as  far  as  possible  all  interchange  between  the  air  in  the  case  and 
that  in  the  room. 

We  now  come  to  the  preparation  fcr  the  plants.  Lay  the 
bottom  of  the  box  with  pieces  of  broken  earthenware,  to  a  depth 
of  two  inches,  as  an  open  subsoil.  Next,  lay  a  stratum  of  turfy 
loam  one  inch  deep,  and  fill  in  the  remainder  of  the  space  with 
soil,  composed  of  equal  portions  of  peat  and  loam,  mixed  with 
about  one-twentieth  part  of  rough  white  sand,  free  from  iron. 
The  artificial  garden-plot  is  now  ready  to  receive  the  plants. 
Plant  these  in  the  usual  manner,  and  then  shower  over  them,  with 
a  fine  iof.3  watering-pot,  from  three  to  four  gallons  of  water,  til] 


DOMESTIC   GREENHOUSES.  95 

the  soil  be  pretty  well  saturated,  and  the  liquid  begins  to  run  off 
by  the  two  openings  in  the  bottom.  After  draining  thus  for 
twenty-four  hours,  cork  up  the  holes,  place  the  glass-case  on  the 
box,  and  the  operation  will  be  finished. 

After  the  first  preparation,  the  plants  require  little  or  no  care  ; 
the  case  need  only  be  opened  for  the  removal  of  dead  leaves,  or 
for  a  httle  trimming,  when  required.  Plants  in  open  flower-pots 
are  exposed  to  the  vicissitudes  of  change  of  climate,  and  require 
constant  watering  ;  but  the  plants  in  these  cases  seem  to  be  in- 
dependent of  any  change  of  temperature  in  the  air,  and  water 
themselves.  The  moisture  rises  by  the  sun's  influence  from  the 
moistened  earth,  cherishes  the  leaves  of  the  plants  in  its  aerial 
condition,  and  during  the  cool  of  night  falls  to  the  earth  again 
like  rain  or  dew.  In  this  manner  there  is  a  constant  succession 
of  rising  and  falling  of  moisture,  in  imitation  of  the  great  processes 
of  nature,  daily  going  on  in  the  fields  around  us.  The  plant-case 
is  a  little  world  in  itself,  in  which  vegetation  is  supported  solely 
by  the  resources  originally  communicated  to  it. 

Not  the  least  remarkable  part  in  the  economy  of  the  case  is 
the  preservation  of  atmospheric  purity.  To  all  who  reflect  for 
the  first  time  on  this  subject,  it  will  seem  incomprehensible  how 
the  plants  can  possibly  thrive  and  blossom  without  the  occasional 
interchange  of  fresh  air  with  the  atmosphere.  This  certainly  does 
appear  extraordinary,  yet  it  is  ascertained  by  experiment  that  no 
such  reinvigoration  is  requisite.  To  account  for  the  phenomena, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  explain  the  constitution  of  atmospheric  air, 
and  the  means  adopted  by  nature  for  its  purification. 

Air  consists  of  three  gases  in  close  mechanical  union — nitrogen, 
oxygen  and  carbonic  acid,  in  the  proportion  of  about  79  of  nitro- 
gen, 20  oxygen,  and  1  of  carbonic  acid,  in  100  parts  of  pure  air. 
In  this  mixed  composition,  the  essential  element  for  the  support 
of  respiration  in  both  animals  and  plants,  and  also  for  combustion, 


96  ladies'    FLOVfEK   GARDENIlll. 

is  the  oxygen,  the  nitrogen  being  little  else  than  a  diluent  tc 
modify  the  strength  of  the  oxygen.  It  was  long  believed  by  men 
of  science  that  plants  possessed  the  power  of  exuding  oxygen, 
and  so  formed  a  prime  agent  for  restoring  vitiated  air  to  purity. 
Later  investigations,  however,  chiefly  by  French  chemists,  have 
made  it  evident  that  plants  have  no  such  power,  unless  when 
placed  under  the  influence  of  the  sun's  rays,  or,  in  other  words, 
that  solar  light  is  the  grand  cleanser  of  the  atmosphere,  and  with- 
out which  both  plants  and  animals  languish  and  die.  With 
respect  to  plants  in  particular,  it  is  ascertained  that,  while  inhaling 
oxygen  and  expiring  carbonic  acid,  their  leaves  possess  the 
remarkable  property,  in  conjunction  with  the  sun's  light,  of 
re-transforming  the  carbonic  acid  into  oxygen.  At  night,  when 
the  light  of  daj'^  has  departed,  the  expired  carbonic  acid  may  be 
detected  in  the  neighborhood  of  plants  ;  and  hence  one  cause  of 
injury  to  health  by  breathing  night  air  ;  but  when  the  morning 
sun  again  bursts  upon  the  scene,  a  great  chemical  process  com- 
mences in  the  atmosphere — the  carbonic  acid  is  decomposed, 
oxygen  is  evolved,  and  all  nature  i-ejoices  in  a  recreation  of  its 
appropriate  nourishment. 

A  question  will  here  readily  occur — what  species  of  plants  are 
best  adapted  for  these  domestic  greenhouses  ?  We  are  fortu- 
nately enabled  to  answer  this  inquiry  by  referring  to  a  learned 
paper  on  the  subject  by  Mr.  Ellis,  which  was  read  to  the  Botani- 
cal Society  of  Edinburgh,  January  13,  1839,  and  afterwards 
published  in  the  Gardener's  Magazine,  and  also  as  a  separate 
pamphlet.  According  to  this  gentleman's  statement,  the  plants 
most  suitable  are  "  those  which  partake  largely  of  a  cellular 
structure,  and  possess  a  succulent  character,  and  especially  those 
which  have  fleshy  leaves  ;  whilst,  on  the  contrary,  the  continued 
humidity  is  unfavorable  to  the  development  of  flowers  of  most 
exogenous  plants,  except  such  as  naturally  grow  in  moist  and 
6hady  situations."     Plants,  therefore,  which  have  to  grow  and 


DOMESTIC   GREE^'HOUSES. 


97 


bloom  in  cavernous  and  moist  situations,  or  in  moist  and  warm 
climates,  are  best  adapted  for  these  cases.  However,  within  this 
class  of  vegetables  there  are  many  beautiful  and  highly  luxuriant 
plants,  which  it  would  afford  no  small  pleasure  to  contemplate. 
The  following  is  a  list  of  plants  from  various  countries,  which 
were  set  in  a  box,  under  Mr,  Ellis's  directions,  and  examined  from 
nine  to  twelve  months  afterwards  : 


BOTANICAL  NAMES. 

Chamae'rops  humilis 

Centiana  vema 

.^dianlum  Capillus  Veneris 
Primula  farinosa 

Primula  scotica 

Ferbascum  Myconi 
./?ndrosace  villosa 
Chamae'rops  Palmetto 
Dionse'a  Muscipula 
Sarracema  purpurea 

Epigae'a  repens 
Testudinaria  elephantipes 
^ loe  retusa 
JRhododendron  chrysanthum 

Chamascistus 
Cycas  revoluta 
iVepenthes  distillatoria 
Cypripedium  venustum  in- 

signe 
Agave  geminiflora 
*Goodyera  discolor 
^Echinocactus  multiplex 
♦peruviana 

myriacantha 
*i'ormosa 

O'ttonj 

Candida 
Epiphyllum  truncatum 
Cereus  flagelliformis 
Lycopodium  stoloniferum 


COUNTRY. 

Italy,  Sicily,  Spain 

England 

England 
Scotland 

Scotland 

Scotland 
Scotland 
Carolina 
Carolina 
Carolina 

Carolina 

Cape  of  Good  Hope 

Cape  of  Good  Hope 

Siberia 

Austria 

China 

Ceylon 

Nepal 

Nepal 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Mexico 

Brazil 

Peru 

Cuba 


REMARKS. 

Increased  l-4th  its  original 
size 

Flowered,  but  no  difference 
in  size 

Increased  1-Sth 

Flowered ;  atmosphere  ra- 
ther damp  for  it 

Flowered ;  atmosphere  ra- 
ther damp  for  it 

Increased  l-8th 

Flowered ;  not  very  healthy 

Increased  l-3d 

Made  1-Sth 

Increased  4  times  its  origi- 
nal size 

Increased  one-half 

Made  a  shoot  10  inches  long 

Made  l-3rd,  showing  flower 

Increased  one-half     [spikea 

Increased  l-3d 

Increased  l-8th 

Increased  2-3ds 

Increased  l-5th 

Increased  l-4th 

Increased  l-3d 

No  perceptible  difference 

Increased  one-half 

Increased  one-half 

Increased  one-half 

Increased  l-3d 

Increased  ]-4th 

Increased  one-half 

Increased  2-3ds 

Increased  one-half 

Very  luxuriant 


Those  marked  thus  *  are  growing  in  fancy  pots,  and  suspended  froiE 
the  roof  of  the  plant-case. 


98  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

The  alternate  action  of  vitiation  and  purification  is  emphatically 
described  as  follows  by  Mr.  Ellis,  in  the  pamphlet  before  us  : — 
"  Under  a  bright  sunshine,  the  two  processes  by  which  carbonic 
acid  is  alternately  formed  and  decomposed  go  on  simultaneously ; 
and  their  necessary  operation,  in  as  far  as  regards  the  condition 
of  the  air,  is  that  of  counteracting  each  other.  Hence,  though 
both  may  be  continually  exercised  in  favorable  circumstances,  the 
effects  of  neither  on  the  atmosphere  can  be  ascertained  by  ordi- 
nary means  ;  and,  consequently,  though,  in  the  experiments  of 
De  Saussure  with  common  air,  the  production  and  decomposition 
of  carbonic  acid  by  plants  in  sunshine  must  have  been  continually 
going  on,  yet,  in  all  the  analysis  which  he  made,  the  air  was 
found  unchanged,  either  in  purity  or  volume  ;  in  other  words,  the 
processes  of  formation  and  decomposition  of  this  acid  gas  exactly 
counterbalanced  each  other. 

"  Of  the  two  processes  which  have  now  been  described  (con- 
tinues our  authority),  each  may  be  considered  as  in  its  nature  and 
purpose  quite  distinct  from  the  other  ;  hence  their  efforts  may  be 
readil}'  distinguished ;  neither  do  they  necessarily  interfere,  when 
actually  working  together.  The  first  or  deteriorating  process,  in 
which  oxygen  gas  is  consumed,  goes  on  at  all  times  and  in  all 
circumstances  when  vegetation  is  active.  It  requires  always  a 
suitable  temperature  in  which  to  display  itself ;  and  when  that 
temperature  falls  below  a  certain  point,  which  is  very  variable  in 
regard  to  different  plants,  the  process  is  more  or  less  completely 
suspended,  again  to  be  renewed  when  the  temperature  shall  re- 
turn. This  conversion  of  oxygen  into  carbonic  acid  is  as  neces- 
sary to  the  evolution  of  the  seed  as  to  the  giowth  of  the  plant, 
and  is  all  that  is  required  for  germination.  But  the  plant  requires 
something  more  ;  for  if  light  be  excluded,  vegetation  proceeds 
imperfectly,  and  the  plant  does  not  then  acquire  its  proper  color, 
and  other  active  properties  which  it  ought  to  have.     The  chief 


DOMESTIC   GREENHOUSES.  99 

organs  by  whi:n  the  consumption  of  oxygen  gas  is  eff&oted  are 
the  leaves ;  and  its  pui-pose,  in  great  part  at  Ijast,  seems  to  be 
that  of  producing  some  necessary  change  in  the  sap  during  its 
transmission  through  those  organs,  on  its  way  from  the  vessels  of 
the  wood  to  those  of  the  inner  bark,  whereby  it  may  be  rendered 
fit  for  the  purposes  of  nutrition  and  growth.  In  its  nature  and 
object,  therefore,  as  well  as  in  the  specific  change  which  it  pro- 
duces in  the  air,  this  process  closely  resembles  the  function  of 
respiration  in  animals,  and  may  thus  with  propriety  be  deemed  a 
physiological  process.  The  second,  or  purifying  process,  in  which 
oxygen  gas  is  evolved,  differs  in  all  respects  from  that  which  has 
just  been  described.  It  is  in  a  great  measure  independent  of 
temperature  ;  at  least  it  proceeds  in  temperatures  too  low  to  sup- 
port vegetation,  provided  light  be  present — an  agent  not  required 
for  germination,  nor  essential  to  vegetable  development.  The 
organs  by  which  this  process  acts  on  the  air  are,  as  before,  the 
leaves  ;  not,  however,  by  changing  the  quaUties  of  the  sap  in  the 
vessels  of  those  organs,  but  by  producing  changes  in  the  chromule, 
or  colorable  matter,  in  their  cells,  to  which  it  imparts  color  and 
other  active  properties.  In  doing  this,  it  does  not  convert  the 
oxygen  gas  of  the  air  into  carbonic  acid,  but,  by  decomposing  that 
acid  gas,  restores  to  the  air  the  identical  portion  of  oxygen  of 
which  the  former  process  had  deprived  it.  The  former  process, 
carried  on  by  the  agency  of  the  oxygen  gas  of  the  air,  was  essen- 
tial to  living  action,  and  aflfected  the  well-being  of  the  whole 
plant ;  that  exercised  by  the  agency  of  light  is  not  necessary  to 
life,  is  local,  not  general  in  its  operation,  and  is  capable  of  pro- 
ceeding in  circumstances  and  under  conditions  incompatible  with 
living  action.  By  withdrawing  the  air  altogether,  or  depriving  it 
of  oxygen  gas,  vegetation  soon  ceases  through  the  whole  plant ; 
but  the  exclusion  of  light  from  any  part  of  the  plant  affects  that 
part  only ;   and  even  the  total  exclusion  of  that  agent  only  de- 


100  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

privcs  the  plant  of  certain  properties  necessary  to  its  perfection, 
but  not  essential  ^o  its  life.  These  differences  in  the  processes  by 
which  oxygen  gas  is  alternately  consumed  and  evolved,  during 
the  vegetation  of  plants  in  sunshine,  are  so  manifest,  both  in  their 
nature  and  effects,  as  to  satisfy  the  ascription  of  a  name  to  thG 
latter  process  distinct  from  that  given  to  the  former.  It  might, 
perhaps,  be  denominated  the  chemical  process,  in  contradistinc- 
tion to  that  named  physiological. 

"  It  would  contribute  much,  we  think,  to  simplify  our  inquiries 
concerning  vegetation,  to  bear  in  mind  these  distinctions;  to  con- 
Bider  the  one  process  as  accomplished  by  the  agency  of  the  air, 
and  essential  to  the  life  and  growth  of  the  plant ;  the  other,  as 
subordinate,  depending  on  the  agency  of  light,  and  though  neces- 
sary to  the  perfection  of  vegetation,  yet  not  essential  to  its  exist- 
ence. In  this  manner  each  process  may  be  followed  out  sepa- 
rately, both  in  regard  to  its  immediate  effects  and  remoter  con- 
sequences, without  clashing  with  the  other ;  and  the  apparently 
discordant  and  even  contradictory  phenomena  which  on  a  first 
view  they  seem  to  exhibit,  may  be  reconciled,  and  considered,  not 
less  in  theory  than  in  fact,  as  conspiring  together  to  form  one 
harmonious  and  perfect  \rnole." 

After  these  explanations,  little  need  be  added  respecting  the 
supply  of  pure  air  to  domestic  greenhouses.  The  deterioration 
of  the  atmosphere  in  the  case  is  daily  counteracted  by  an  oppo- 
site process  of  purification,  so  that  amidst  the  vicissitudes  of  per- 
petual change,  the  air  is  maintained  in  a  state  of  nearly  uniform 
composition  and  purity,  and  serves  over  and  over  again  for  all  the 
purposes  of  vegetation.  It  may,  however,  be  stated,  to  prevent 
misconception,  that  the  more  pure  the  air  of  the  apartment,  the 
plants  will  have  the  better  chance  of  thriving,  because  there  must 
necessarily  be  an  interchange  to  some  extent  betwixt  the  air  of 
the  room  and  the  case,  in  consequence  of  the  daily  expansion 


DOMESTIC   GREENHOUSES. 


101 


from  heat,  and  nigbtly  condensation  from  cold.  This  interchange 
will  be  efifected  by  the  minute  crevices  in  the  apparatus,  and 
therefore  requires  no  special  provision. 


102  ladies'  flower  gabdeneb. 


CHAPTER  X. 

MONTHLY    NOTICES. 

RECAPITULATION  of  the  work  which  each  month 
presents  to  the  gardener's  notice  will  be  useful.  By 
occasionally  glancing  over  the  Monthly  Notices,  the  me- 
mory is  refreshed ;  and  it  will  be  found  that  even  the  three  winter 
months  allow  the  young  gardener  no  remission  from  labor. 
There  is  something  to  be  done  in  every  week  in  the  year — some- 
thing to  be  attended  to,  which  amuses  the  mind,  interests  the 
imagination,  and  benefits  the  general  tone  of  mental  and  physical 
health. 

JANUARY. 

Let  your  lawn  and  c/rass  walks  be  kept  neat  and  smooth,  by 
rolling,  this  month  ;  and  if  any  part  of  the  grounds  require  fresh 
turf,  this  IS  the  season  for  cutting  and  laying  it  down.  If  you 
live  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  common,  that  is  the  best  ground 
for  cutting  turf,  as  the  herbage  is  short,  and  free  from  nettles, 
docks,  &c.  Lay  it  down  firm  and  even,  allowing  for  the  sinking 
of  the  newly-laid  earth,  about  an  inch  or  two.  Roll  it  well,  after 
having  laid  down  the  turf. 

Keep  the  gravel  walks  also  from  weeds  and  moss,  and  roll 
them  in  dry  weather.  If  you  attempt  to  roll  gravel  in  wet  wea- 
ther, the  gravel  clings  to  the  roller. 

Dig  the  clumps  or  spots  where  you  mean  to  plant  evergreens, 
in  February  and  March,  that  the  ground  may  be  trenched  ia 


MONTHLY   NOTICES.  103 

readiness.     The  frost  of  this  month  will  render  newly-dug  earth 
more  fiiable,  and  the  snow  will  enrich  it. 

If  the  weather  is  very  settled  and  mild,  you  may  still  plant 
out  hardy  deciduous  shrubs,  such  as  sweetbriars,  double 
bramble,  double-blossomed  cherry,  dwarf  almond,  jasmines, 
honeysuckles,  roses,  lilacs,  laburnums,  guelder  rose,  Spiraea  frutex, 
mezereons,  &c.  Transplant  each  shrub  with  a  good  ball  of  earth 
round  its  roots. 

Prune  flowering  shrubs  now,  where  they  require  it,  with  a 
sharp  knife,  not  with  shears.  When  I  say  "  flowering  shrubs," 
I  do  not  mean  shrubs  in  flower,  but  shrubs  that  do  flower. 

Transplant  suckers  from  the  hardy  flowering  shrubs,  if  they 
have  not  been  done  before.  Take  them  up  with  good  roots,  and 
support  them  neatly  with  stakes. 

Cuttings  of  young  shoots  of  hardy  deciduous  shrubs  may  be 
planted  in  mild  weather,  to  root,  and  form  good  plants  in  the 
autumn.     Layers  may  be  also  formed. 

Protect  all  the  choicer  kinds  of  flowering  shrubs,  and  all  cut- 
tings of  every  kind,  from  severe  frosts,  by  spreading  litter  over 
them. 

Plant  tulips  now — always  providing  the  weather  is  mild — to 
blow  late  in  the  year  ;  but  they  will  not  be  so  handsome  as  those 
which  were  planted  again  in  September  and  October. 

Plant  any  ranunculuses,  anemones,  &c.,  you  may  have  out  of 
the  ground,  to  come  in  late  blowing ;  but,  like  the  tulips,  they 
will  not  bear  such  fine  blooms.  Protect  everything  from  severe 
weather,  as  well  as  you  can,  this  month,  particularly  your  choicer 
sorts  of  bulbs,  and  tuberous-rooted  perennials. 

FEBRUARY. 

February  is  the  first  spring  month,  and  the  parterre  will  begin 
to  make  gradual  approaches  to  gaiety  and  life.     The  anemones. 


104  ladies'  flower  gardener, 

hepaticas,  &c.,  will  now  bud  and  flower,  if  the  weather  is  genial ; 
and  the  crocus  and  snowdrop  will  put  forth  their  blooms  to  meet 
the  sun  on  his  returning  march. 

About  the  end  of  this  month,  you  may  begin  to  sow  the  hardy 
annuals.  I  prefer  April,  but  it  may  not  be  convenient  always  to 
wait  so  long  ;  therefore  sow  now  the  seeds  of  hawkweed,  lavatera, 
Venus's  looking-glass,  Venus's  navelwort,  candytuft,  larkspurs, 
lupines,  convolvulus,  flos  Adonis,  dw^arf  lychnis,  nigelia,  annual 
sunflowers,  &c. 

This  month,  you  may  plant  and  transplant,  fearlessly,  all  hardy, 
fibrous-rooted  flowering  perennials  and  biennials,  such  as  saxifrage, 
gentianella,  hepaticas,  violets,  primroses  of  all  sorts,  polyanthuses, 
double  daisies,  thrift,  &c. ;  rose  campions,  rockets,  campanulas, 
sweet-williams,  hollyhocks,  scarlet  lychnis,  carnations,  pinks, 
monk's-hood,  perennial  asters  and  sunflowers,  &c. 

Plant  cuttings  of  roses,  honeysuckles,  and  jasmines. 

If  the  weather  is  mild,  you  may  transplant  many  kinds  of 
evergreen  shrubs,  such  as  phillyreas,  alaternuses,  laurels,  laurus- 
tinus,  pyracanthas,  cistuses,  &c.  Let  there  be  a  ball  of  earth 
round  their  roots,  when  you  take  them  out  of  the  ground. 

If  box  edging  is  i-equired,  plant  it  now ;  water  it,  and  the  plants 
will  soon  root. 

Dig  the  borders,  carefully  and  lightly,  with  your  garden  fork  ; 
make  the  garden  look  neat,  and  free  from  weeds ;  clear  away 
dead  leaves  ;  sweep  the  lawn  and  walks  ;  and  let  spring  advance 
in  its  proper  order. 

MARCH. 

Now  plant  away.  Evergreens  cannot  be  moved  at  a  better 
period.  Deciduous  flowering  shrubs  may  also  be  still  planted, 
Euch  as  Althaea  frutex,  syrir/gas,  roses,  honeysuckles,  mezereons, 


MONTHLY  NOTICES.  105 

Bumach,  laburnums,  lilacs,  jasmines,  candleberry  myrtles,  guelder 
roses,  &c. 

Where  the  borders  require  filling  up,  the  following  plants  may 
still  be  moved,  but  do  it  early  in  this  month  : — ■ 

Lychnises,  campanulas,  Canterbury  bells,  tree  primroses, 
rockets,  sweet-williams,  wallflowers,  columbines,  monk's-hood, 
rose  campions,  perennial  asters  and  sunflowers,  foxgloves,  &c. 

Sow  perennial  and  biennial  flower  seeds  about  the  last  week 
in  this  month.  Stake  your  hyacinths,  when  the  flower  stems  are 
tall. 

Plant  out  layered  carnations  of  last  year,  into  the  places  where 
they  ought  to  remain. 

Give  fresh  earth  to  any  plants  in  pots,  such  as  carnations,  pinks, 
auriculas,  double  sweet-williams,  double  stock  gillyflowers,  rock- 
ets, &c. 

Sow  annuals  of  all  hardy  kinds. 

Transplant  any  hardy  roses,  which  you  may  wish  should  blow 
late  in  the  year. 

Plant  box,  for  edgings,  still ;  and  roll  the  lawn  and  grass  walks. 

Transplant  any  tenderer  kinds  of  annuals  which  you  may  have 
been  at  the  pains  of  raising  in,  or  procuring /rom,  a  hot-bed. 

Keep  the  garden  quite  free  from  weeds  and  dead  leaves. 


Now  place  sticks  to  every  plant  or  stalk  i-equiring  support. 
Fix  the  sticks,  or  light  iron  rods,  firmly  in  the  ground  ;  and  tie 
the  stems  to  each  stick  neatly,  in  two  or  three  places. 

Some  evergreens  may  yet  be  removed,  as  laurels,  laurustinus, 
Portugal  laurel,  cistuses,  arbutus,  magnolias,  pyracanthas,  (fee. 

Propagate  auriculas,  by  slipping  off  their  suckers  and  offsets, 
this  month. 

b* 


106  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

Sow  carnation  and  polyanthus  seeds  still.     Sow,  also,  perenoial 

and  biennial  seeds. 

Where  any  perennial  or  biennial  fibrous-rooted  flowers  are 
wanted,  transplant  them  only  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  and 
they  must  have  each  a  good  ball  of  earth  attached  to  them ;  but 
this  work  should  be  completed  in  February,  or  March  at  farthest. 

Every  sort  of  annual  may  now  be  sown. 

Take  care  of  your  hyacinths,  tulips,  ranunculuses,  and  ane- 
mones now,  for  they  will  be  hastening  into  bloom. 

Place  your  auriculas,  hyacinths,  &c.,  which  may  be  in  pots,  ia 
a  sheltered  place,  during  heavy  rains  or  winds  ;  and  shelter  those 
flowers  which  are  in  the  borders  as  well  as  you  can.  Trim  them 
from  dead  leaves. 

Keep  your  lawn  and  grass  walks  nicely  mown  and  rolled,  and 
your  borders  free  from  weeds  and  rubbish. 


Propagate  perennial  fibrous-rooted  plants  by  cuttings. 

Propagate  double  wall-flowers  by  slips  of  the  young  shoots  of 
the  head. 

Sow  annuals  for  succession ;  such  as  sweet-peas,  nasturtiums, 
lavatera,  lupines,  flos  Adonis,  &c. 

Take  up  those  hyacinths,  tulips,  &c.  which  have  done  flower- 
ing, and  dry  them  in  the  shade  to  put  away. 

Weeds  grow  quickly  now :  hoe  them  up  wherever  you  see 
them.  Support  all  flowers  with  sticks  ;  train  them  upright.  Clear 
away  all  the  dead  leaves  from  your  carnations,  and  gently  stir 
the  earth  round  them  with  your  smallest  trowel. 

Look  round  the  borders  now,  and  take  oft'  inegular  shoots. 


MONTHLY  NOTICES.  107 

JUKE. 

Propagate  carnations  by  layers  and  pipings.  Propagate  double 
sweet-williams  and  pinks  by  layers  and  cuttings,  or  slips. 

Propagate  perennial  fibrous-rooted  plants  by  cuttings  of  the 
stalks. 

Transplant  the  large  annuals  from  the  seedling  bed  to  the 
places  where  they  are  to  remain.  Let  this  be  done  in  showery 
weather,  if  possible. 

Take  up  all  bulbs,  ranunculuses,  and  anemone  roots,  (fee,  as  the 
flowers  and  leaves  decay. 

Water  the  delicate  plants,  if  tlie  weather  proves  dry :  give  a 
moderate  watering  every  evening,  but  never  in  the  heat  of  the 
day. 

Sow  yet  some  hardy  annuals,  such  as  ten-week  stocks,  virgin 
stock,  &c. 

Plant  out  China-asters,  Chinese  hollyhocks,  ten-week  stocks, 
large  convolvolus,  &c.,  but  let  each  root  have  a  ball  of  earth 
round  it. 

Examine  the  perennial  and  biennial  plants,  to  cut  off  all  dead, 
broken,  or  decaying  shoots.  Trim  the  African  and  French  mari- 
golds from  their  lower  straggling  shoots,  that  they  may  present  a 
neat,  upright  appearance.  Trim  the  chrysanthemums,  which  are 
apt  to  branch  too  near  the  root,  and  stake  them  neatly. 

Plant  out  carnations  and  pink  seedlings  into  their  proper  places. 

Keep  everything  just  moderately  moist,  if  there  is  a  long 
drought  in  this  month, 

JULY. 

You  may  lay  carnations  and  double  sweet-williams  still ;   but 
let  it  be  done  before  the  end  of  the  second  vreek  in  this  month. 
Propagate  pinks  by  slips  and  pipings 


108  ladies'  plowek  gardener. 

Transplant  tlie  seedling  auiiculas  which  were  sown  last  year, 
as  also  the  seedling  pol3'anthus. 

Transplant  the  perennial  and  biennial  seedlings  which  were  not 
done  last  month,  to  remain  till  October. 

Take  up  all  bulbs  as  fast  as  they  decay  their  leaves.  If  this 
month  prove  hot  and  dry,  place  your  potted  carnations  in  a  shel- 
tered situation,  and  keep  them  just  moist. 

Support  flowering  shrubs  and  plants,  and  cut  away  decayed 
stems.  Keep  the  borders  clean.  Mow  the  lawn  and  grass  walks. 
Plant  autumnal  bulbs. 


You  may  now  begin  to  propagate  some  double-flowered  and 
approved  fibrous-rooted  plants  the  end  of  the  month,  if  they  have 
done  flowering — such,  for  instance,  as  the  double  rose  campion, 
catchfly,  double  -scarlet  lychnis,  double  rocket,  double  ragged 
robin,  bachelor's  buttons,  gentianella,  polyanthuses,  auriculas,  &c. 

Sow  auricula  and  polyanthus  seed  on  a  warm,  d.y  day ;  and 
remove  carnation  layers  to  some  place  where  they  may  remain 
till  October  to  srain  strenryth. 

Sow  seeds  of  bulbs. 

Sow  anemone  and  ranunculus  seed. 

Remove  all  bulbs  which  have  done  flowering. 

Cut  and  trim  edgings  of  box.  Clip  holly,  yew,  and  privet 
hedges. 

Gather  flower  seeds. 

Plant  autumnal  bulbs,  if  any  are  etill  above  ground,  such  as? 
colchicums,  autumnal  narcissus,  amaryllis,  and  autumn  crocus. 

Trim  the  flower  plants  ;  mow  the  lawn  and  grass  walks,  and 
ke.ep  every  department  in  neat  order. 


MONTHLY  NOTICES.  109 


SEPTEMBER. 

Transplant,  in  any  moist  or  showery  weather  this  month,  tlie 
perennial  and  biennial  seedlings  to  their  proper  situations,  with  a 
ball  of  earth  round  their  roots. 

Propagate  fibrous-rooted  plants. 

Prepare  the  spots  where  you  mean  to  deposit  anemone  and 
ranunculus  roots  any  time  between  the  end  of  this  month  and  the 
and  of  October ;  and  dig  all  beds  and  borders  which  are  vacant, 
to  prepare  them  also  for  receiving  roots  and  plants  next  month. 

Transplant  peonies,  flag  irises,  monk's-hood,  fraxinella,  and 
such  like  plants,  to  part  their  roots  and  remove  each  root  to  its 
destined  posiLion. 

Transplant  evergreens. 

Plant  cuttings  of  honey-suckles,  and  other  shrubs. 

Plant  hyacinth  and  tulip  roots  for  early  spring  bloom. 

Plant  box  by  slips  or  roots. 

Mow  grass  lawn  and  walks.  Clear  away  flower  stems,  and 
trim  flowering  plants. 

Sow  seeds  of  bulbous  flowers,  if  not  done  last  month. 


This  i.=  a  very  busy  month ;  for  the  garden  should  now  be 
cleared  and  arranged  for  the  season. 

Transplant  all  sorts  of  fibrous-rooted  perennial  and  biennial 
plants  now  where  they  are  intended  to  remain. 

Put  the  bulbs  into  the  ground  again ;  and  transplant  the 
different  layered  plants  into  their  respective  places. 

Prune  flowering  shrubs  of  all  sorts.  Plant  and  transplant  all 
bardy  deciduous  shrubs,  and  their  suckers. 


110  ladies'  flower  gardener. 

Dig  up  and  part  the  roots  of  all  flowers  which  require  so  doing, 
and  replant  them. 

Plant  cuttings  of  honeysuckles,  laurels,  &c. 

Take  up  the  roots  of  dahUas,  and  put  them  carefully  away  till 
May. 

Tiim  evergreens. 

Plant  box  edgings  ;  cut  away  the  long,  sticky  roots,  and  trim 
the  tops  even. 

Mow  grass  walks  and  lawns,  and  weed  gravel  walks. 

NOVEMBER. 

Prepare  compost  for  a  new  year  by  raking  dead  leaves,  so'.l, 
sand,  &c.,  in  a  heap,  to  turn  well  over  occasionally.  Pour  the 
brine,  soap-suds,  <fec.,  from  the  house  over  it. 

Transplant  still  all  hardy  kinds  of  flowering  shrubs,  suckers,  (fee. 

Clear  the  borders  from  dead  annuals,  leaves,  stumps,  <fec. ; 
shelter  the  choice  bulbs  and  double-flowering  plants. 

DECEMBER. 

Take  care  of  every  thing.  Protect  the  more  delicate  roots 
from  severe  frost,  by  strewing  ashes,  sand,  or  litter  over  them. 
Prune  shrubs,  and  dig  between  them. 

If  the  weather  is  open,  you  may  still  plaut  hardy  sons  of 
flowering  shrubs. 


INDEX 


A.C0NI1ES 

Alaturnus,  Layers  of 

Amelioration  of  Soils  . . 

Amaryllis 

Annuals 

self-sown    . . 
to  sow- 
how  to  water 
when  to  sow 
how  to  transplant 
to  trim 

List  of  less  tender     . , 
List  of  hardy     .  • 

Ants,  to  destroy 

Anemone 

April,  List  of  Perennials  for 
Monthly  Notices  of 

Arrangement  of  Shrubs 
of  Flowers 

Arabian  Jasmine    . .  . , 

Arbutus 

Arbor  Vits 

Arsenic  Water,  to  use ' . . 

Aspect  for  Flowers 

Auriculas 

Compost  for 

Austrian  Briar 

August,  Monthly  Notice  for 
List  of  Perennials  for 

Avroncator 

Ayrshire  Rose 


33,34,45 

74 

..  21 

4( 

20,  sy 

57 
..  58 

58 
..  58 

58 
..  60 

60 
..  61 

25 
..  47 

22 
..  105 

69 
..  19 

67 
..  70 

74 
..  59 

14 
30,45 

14 

..  65 

108 

..  23 

16 
..  66 


112 


INDEX. 


Beds,  planting 

Beds  of  Roses                ..             .. 

Belladonna             ..              ..             .. 

Biennials         ..             ..             ,, 

Propagation  of           , .             . , 

Seeds,  when  to  sow          f . 

to  shelter    ..             .,             ,, 

when  to  transplant 

List  of  hardy 

Bligh 

Brine 

Bulbs              

soil  for 

when  to  take  up 

autumn-flowering     . . 

Seed  of 

to  replant   . . 

arrangenaent  of  . . 

List  of 

Cabbage  Rose                . .             . . 

Camellia  Japonica 

Canterbury  Bells          . .             . . 

Carnations 

China  Asters  . . 

to  train 

Chrysanthemums 

Cistus,  Gum 

Clay,  how  to  improve  . . 

Clarkias  . . 

Climbing  Rose 

Colchicums,  Soil  for 

when  to  plant   .. 

Compost  for  Flowers 

Convolvulus  . . 

Creepers,  as  decorations 

Crocus 

autumnal,  when  to  plant 

, 

Cuttings 

mD£:X. 


118 


Cutting,  of  Perennials 

Protection  for     . . 
of  Shrubs,  when  to  make 
Dahlias 
Daisies,  double 
Damask  Rose 
Dead  leaves,  to  collect 
Deciduous,  terna  explained 

Shrubs,  List  of 
Decennber,  Monthly  Notice  for  . . 
•Devices  for  training  Jasmine 
Dii!;ging,  when  to  be  done 
Domestic  Greenhouses         . . 
Double-flowering  Plants 

to  shelter    . . 
Dress,  working 
Earwigs,  to  destroy 
Employnnent  in  Summer  . . 

Evergreens 

how  and  when  te  transplant 
how  to  layer 
to  make  Cuttings  of 
to  prune 
Remarks  on 
List  of 
February,  Monthly  Notice  for     , . 

list  of  Perennials  for 
Fences  against  Hares  and  Rabbits 
Fibrous  root,  term  explained 
Flowers,  Aspect  for      . . 

how  to  arrange 
Flower  Seeds,  how  to  sow 

self-sown,  how  to  treat 
Flowering  Shrubs,  how  to  plant 
Fly,  to  destroy  the  Green    . . 
Gardening,  remarks  on 
Gardens,  notices  of  old  English 
ftirden  general  remarks  upon  the 


28 
54 
72 
30 
34 
63 
14 
27 
72 
109 
68 
14 
91 
35 
52 
17 
25 
31 
69 
70 
71 
72 
75 
71 
74 
?03 
22 
24 
27 
14 
18 
38 
57 
69 
66 
10 
10 
13 


114 


INDEX 


Garden,  laying  oul  a     . . 

Soil  for        . .  . . 

Connpost  for 

Tools  necessary  for  . . 

Working  Dress  for 
Gentian  . . 

Gentianella    . .  « . 

Gillyflowers 
Golden  Rod  . .  . . 

Gravel  Walks 
Green  Fly,  to  destroy  . . 
Ground,  management  of 

to  prepare  for  Seeds 
Gum  Cistus 
Guernsey  Lily 

Hand-glasses,  substitute  for  . . 
Hares,  to  protect  against 
Hepaticas 

Herbaceous,  term  explained 
Hollyhocks 
Honesty 

Honeysuckles,  to  increase    , . 
Hyacinths 

Improvement  of  Soils 
Irises 

flag-leaved  . . 
Iron  Rods  for  Flowers  . . 

Stakes  for  Roses 
January,  Monthly  Notice  for 

list  of  Perennials  for 
Jasmines 

to  increase  . . 

to  renew  the  Soil  for 

to  prune 

devices  for  training 
I^onquils  . . 
Tuly,  Monthly  Notice  for 

List  of  Perennials  for 


INDEX. 


115 


June,  Monthly  Notice  for    . .  . . 

List  of  Perennials  for      . .  •  • 

Knob-rooted  Plants  . .  . . 

Ladies'  Garden  fools  •  •  . . 

working  Dress  . .  .  t 

Lawn  . .  . .  . .  . . 

Laurel         ..  ..  ..         .. 

Laurel,  Portugal 

Laurestinas 

Layering,  when  to  be  done         . .  . . 

Layers  of  Biennials  . .  . . 

of  Evergreens    . . 

of  Alaturnus,  &c.,  when  to  be  done 
Lilies  of  the  Valley 

Llanagement  of 

Orange 

Guernsey  smd  Belladonna        ■, . 
Linen  as  a  covering,  advantages  of 
List  of  Flowers  for  each  month 

hardy  Perennials 

Roses 

hardy  climbing  ditto 

bulbous  and  tuberous-rooted  Flowers 

hardy  Biennials 
London  Pride 
Lychnis  . .  . .  . .  , , 

double  scarlet 
Lychnidea      . .  . .  . .  , . 

March,  Monthly  Notice  for  . . 

List  of  Perennials  for        . ,  . . 

Martagons  ...  . .  . . 

Marigolds       . .  . .  . .  , . 

May,  Monthly  Notice  for    . . 

List  of  Perennials  for        . .  . . 

Michaelmas  Dais}'  . ,  . . 

Mignionette  ..  ..  .. 

Mildew 

M  onthly  Rose 


il6 


INDEX. 


Monthly  Rose,  noticed 

Remarks  on       . .  . . 

Moss  Roses  . .  . . 

Narcissus       . .  . .  . 

yellow  autumnal 
Neatness  essential  in  a  Garden   . . 
NiHht  Stock 
November,  Monthly  Notice  for 

List  of  Perennials  for 
October,  Monthly  Notice  for 

List  of  Perennials  for 
Offsets  of  Perennials  and  Biennials 

Bulbs 
Oil  paper  frames 
Orange  Lilies 
Orchis  tribe 
Pansies 

Peonies  . .  . .  . , 

Perpetual  Rose 
Perennials 

how  to  sow  . . 

how  to  propagate  . . 

how  to  divide 

when  to  add  soil  to  . . 

list  of  hardy 
PcLsecarias     . .  . .  . . 

Pinks      . . 

general  management  of  . . 
Pickle  and  Brine  good  for  Flowers 
Pipings,  when  to  make 

how  to  make 
Phyllerias 
Planting  Beds 

Shrubs,  method  of 
Polyanthus 
Portugal  Laurel 
Primroses 
Propagating  Biennials  . . 


pyramid  of  Roses 

•  • 

•  •                •  • 

64 

Pyracantha    . .               .             . . 

. 

• 

..     70 

Qualities  of  Pinks 

.. 

.. 

29 

Rabbits,  to  guard  against             . , 

. 

i 

..     24 

Ranunculus            ..             .. 

, , 

.. 

46 

Remarks  on  Gardens    • .             . . 

. 

.                .. 

.     13 

Rockets,  double     . .             . . 

. 

..                .. 

28 

Rods,  for  Flowers,  Iron               . . 

, 

•  . 

..     26 

Root-house,  to  construct  a  . . 

,  , 

•  •                .. 

19 

Rhododendrons              . .             . . 

, 

•                «•                • 

..     71 

Roses      . .              . .              . . 

, , 

•  •                •• 

63 

monthly              . .             . . 

. 

•                • »                • 

..     65 

Remarks  on 

.. 

..                .. 

15 

damask 

, 

»                .. 

..     63 

cabbage      . .              . . 

.. 

.. 

64 

moss                   . .             . . 

, 

c                      .. 

..     64 

standard 

•  • 

..                      •• 

65 

double  yellow    . . 

. 

.                      .. 

..     65 

Austrian 

.. 

.. 

65 

perpetual,  or  four-season 

. 

. 

..     65 

Ayrshire 

.. 

^ 

66 

Lady  Banks 

. 

•                      •• 

..     66 

climbing     . . 

.. 

•  •                      .  • 

66 

soil  for 

. 

..                      . 

..     64 

when  and  how  to  prune 

64 

to  layer 

. 

•  • 

..     64 

disease  of   . . 

.. 

•  . 

64 

pyramids  and  beds  of 

. 

• 

..      64 

list  of 

,, 

C    .                                      .    . 

66,  67 

Rosa  hybrida  multiflora 

. 

>                                     •• 

.      66 

liustic  stages 

..                                     •. 

15 

advantages  of    . . 

. 

.      16 

Salt,  observations  on 

.. 

..                                      •• 

39 

water  for  cuttings 

. 

.< 

..      56 

Sand,  good  effects  of 

.. 

.. 

. .        14,  21 

Saxifrage 

. 

. 

30,34 

Seed  to  sow,  when  and  how.  Perennials 

. 

27,  28 

Bulbs 

.                                      •    . 

..      37 

J 18 


INDEX. 


Seed,  Biennials     . . 

Annuals  •  • 

how  to  prune  . . 

when  to  gather 
Seedlings,  when  to  remove 

Pink  and  Carnation 
See'Jling-bed,  to  protect  the 
September,  Monthly  Notice  for 

List  of  Perennials  for 
Shrubs,  arrangement  of 

how  to  plant 

when  to  transplant 

to  make  cuttings  of 

when  to  take  suckers  off 

to  prune     . . 

notices  of  several 

list  of  deciduous 

evergreen 
Slipping,  how  V>  perform 
Snails,  to  destroy 
Snowdrops  .  i 

Soapsuds,  to  use 
Soils,  improvement  of 

amelioration  of 
Stages,  rustic 
Staking  plants 
Stocks,  ten-week 
Stock,  gilliflower 

night 
Stony  ground,  to  manage 
Sultan,  white  and  purple 
Sunflower,  everlasting 
Sweet  Peas 

to  raise  early  • .  •• 

Sweet-williams 
Thrift 

Tools,  Ladies'  garden  • . 

Transplant  Perennia's  and  Biennials,  when  to 


INDEX. 


119 


Trees,  to  ornament  the  trunks  of 
Tuberous  root,  term  explained 

rooted  J^lowers 

rooted  Flowers  and  Bulbs,  list  of 
Tulips     .. 

Veius'  Looking-glass  . . 

Verbena,  scarlet  ..  .. 

Violets  ..  ,.  ., 

Wall-flowers         . .  . .  , , 

Window  Gardening     ..  ., 


18 
,.     27 

36 
.       41 

. . 

38 

.. 

.c     59 

.. 

35 

.. 

.,     29 

.. 

51 

•  • 

.c   7e 

SAXTON'S    COTTAGE    AND    FARM    LIBRARY. 
THE 

AMERICAN  ROSE  CULTURIST; 

BEING   A 

PEACTICAL    TREATISE 

ON   THE 

PROPAGATION,     CULTIVATION,     AND     MANAGEMENT 

OF 

THE     ROSE 

or   ALL    seasons;    with    a   list    of    choice    and    approved    -VkUarrit^ 
ADAPTED    TO    THL    CLIMATE    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES  • 

TO    VTHTCH   ARE   ADDE3 

FULL  DIRECTIONS  FOR   THE   I'REATMENT  0» 

THE     DAHLIA. 

Illustrated    by    Engravings, 


"——No  flower  that  blows 
Ib  like  the  Rose,  nor  scatters  such  perfume." 

NEW   YORK: 
C.    AT.    SAXTON    AND     COMPANY 

AGRICULTURAL    BOOK    PUBLISHERS, 

No.  140  Fulton  Street. 

1857. 


'Rntc  ed  according  to  Act  of  Congress  ic  the  year  "i  .^.V2,  07 

0.  M.   SAXTON. 

in  the  Cl'jrk's  Office  of  'i'e  District  Gonit  t1)r  the  Southern  District 

of  New  T  orl<. 


ADYBETISEMENT. 


The  marked  effect  with  which  the  "  Cottage  Bee  Keeper "  was 
received,  as  the  first  of  the  series  of  "  Saxton's  Cottage  and 
Farm  Lilirary,"  has  led  the  PubHsher  to  issue  the  present 
treatise  on  the  Rose  and  the  Dahha. 

No  pains  will  be  spared  in  bringing  out  the  succeeding  volumes 
agreeably  to  the  plan  of  the  original  design;  and  if  practicable,  it  is 
hoped  that  they  will  be  still  more  deserving  of  success  than  those 
which  have  already  appeared. 

The  pubUsher  acknowledges  his  indebtedness  to  Messrs.  Lea  and 
Blanchard,  of  Philadelphia,  for  the  permission  granted  for  using  Lan- 
dreth's  "  Dictionary  of  Modern  Gardening,"  in  the  compilation  of  this 
work.  He  also  takes  this  occasion  to  thank  Mr.  William  H.  Starr  for 
the  use  of  several  engravings  herein  employed. 

C.  M.  SAXTON, 
Agricultural  Book  Publisher, 
152  Fulton  Street. 


INDEX. 


THE    ROSE. 


PAOB 

Brierg 19,30 

Budding 51 

Spring 65 

Calendar  of  Operations 73 

Flowering  of  Seedlings,  Hastening  of 47 

Retarding  of. 49 

Forcing 39,42,43,  44 

Graf  tin  g 57 

Root 58 

Hints,  G  eneral,  on  Cultivation 67 

Insects  infesting  the  Rose 80 

Manures  proper  for  the  Rose 37 

Pillar  Roses 64,  65 

Planting  of  the  Rose 37 

Poetical  Allusions  to  the  Rose 5,  6,  7,  8 

Potting  of  Roses 39,  41 

P  opagation  by  Budding 51 

Cuttings 49 

Grafting 57 

Layers 50 

Seed 45 

Suckers 49 

Properties  of  Climbing  Roses 35 

Moss  Roses 32 

Noisette  Roses 34 

Roses  for  Stands 34 

Pruning 60,  65,  66 

Standards 61 

and  Trailing  Pillar  Roses 64,  65 

Root  Grafting 53 

Roses,  Austrian  Brier 19 

Banksian 21,  26 


FAOB 

Roses,  Bengal 3 

Bourbon 11,21,  24 

Boursault 20 

Burgundy 23 

China 17,22 

Climbing 14,20,  21,35 

Damask 18 

Double  Yello-w 19 

Evergreen 20 

French 17,  28 

Hardy  Garden 15 

Hybrid 12, 17,  21 

Jaune  Desprez 25 

Macartney 23 

Miorophylla 25 

Miniature 22 

Moss 17,34 

Musk 15,  23 

Noisette 13,  23,  34 

Perpetual 12,  21 

Pillar 64 

Provence 16 

Scotch 19 

Species  of. 8 

Sweet  Brier 19,30 

Tea-scented 9,  22 

Varieties  of 8 

Village  Maid 29 

White 18 

Williams'  Yellow  Sweet  Brier 30 

Soil  proper  for  the  Rose 36 

Species  and  Varieties 8 


THE    DAHLIA. 


PAGE 

After  Culture 94 

History 78 

Mulching 93 

Planting  out 92 

Propagation  by  Grafting  and  Slips 90 

Seed 89 

Slips 90 

Requisites  of  a  Fine  Flower 88 


PAOB 

Situation 91 

Soil,  Preparation  of. 91 

Treatment,  Autumnal 94 

of  Slips 91 

Spring 92 

when  flowermg 94 

"Watering 93 


THE    HOSE. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Rosa  !  thou  art  the  sweetest  flower 
That  ever  drank  the  amber  shower  ; 
Rose  !  thou  art  the  fondest  child 
Of  dimpled  Spring,  the  wood  nymph  wild. 

Anacrbok. 


|HE  Rose,  the  emblem  of  beauty  and  the  pride 
of  Flora,  reigns  Queen  of  the  Flowers  in  every 
part  of  the  globe  ;  and  the  bards  of  all  nations 
and  languages  have  sung  its  praises.  Tet 
what  poet  has  been  able,  or  language  sufficient, 
to  do  justice  to  a  plant  that  has  been  denom- 
inated the  Daughter  of  Heaven,  the  glory  of 
spring,  and  the  ornament  of  the  earth  ?  As 
it  is  the  most  common  of  all  tliat  compose  the 
garland  of  Flora,  so  it  is  the  most  delightful. 
Every  country  boasts  of  it,  and  every  behold- 
er admires  it.  Poets  have  celebrated  its  charms  without  exhausting 
its  eulogium  ;  for  its  allurements  increase  upon  a  familiarity,  and  every 
fresh  view  presents  new  beauties,  and  gives  additional  delight.  Hence 
it  renovates  the  imagination  of  the  bard,  and  the  very  name  of  the 
flower  gives  harmony  to  his  numbers,  as  its  odors  give  sweetness  to 
th?  air. 


6  INTRODUCTION. 

To  paint  this  universal  emblem  of  delicate  splendor  in  its  own  hues, 
the  pencil  should  be  dipped  in  the  tints  of  Aurora,  when  arising  amidst 
her  aerial  glory.  Human  art  can  neither  color  nor  describe  so  fair  a 
flower.  Venus  herself  feels  a  rival  in  the  Rose,  whose  beauty  is  com- 
posed of  all  that  is  exquisite  and  graceful.  It  has  been  made  the 
symbol  of  sentiments  as  opposite  as  various.  Piety  seized  it  to  deco- 
rate the  temples,  while  Love  expressed  its  tenderness  by  wreaths ;  and 
Jollity  revelled  adorned  with  crowns  of  roses.  Grief  strews  it  on  the 
tomb,  and  Luxury  spreads  it  on  the  couch.  It  is  mingled  with  our 
tears,  and  spread  in  our  gayest  walks ;  in  epitaphs,  it  expresses  youth- 
ful modesty  and  chastity,  while  in  the  songs  of  the  Bacchanalians 
their  god  is  compared  to  this  flower.  The  beauty  of  the  morning  is 
allegorically  represented  by  it,  and  Aurora  is  depictured  strewing 
roses  before  the  chariot  of  Phoebus : 

"  When  morning  paints  the  orient  skies, 
Her  fingers  burn  with  roseate  dyes." 

The  Rose  is  thought  to  have  given  name  to  the  Holy  Land  where 
Solomon  sang  its  praises,  as  Syria  appears  to  be  derived  from  /S'wn,  a 
beautiful  and  delicate  species  of  Rose,  for  which  that  country  has  al- 
ways been  famous ;  and  hence  called  Suristan,  or  the  "  Land  of  Roses." 
The  island  of  Rhodes  owes  its  name  to  the  prodigious  quantity  of 
roses  which  formerly  grew  upon  its  soil. 

Of  the  birth  of  the  Rose,  it  is  related  in  fable,  that  Flora  having 
found  the  corpse  of  a  favorite  Nymph,  whose  beauty  of  person  was 
only  surpassed  by  the  purity  of  her  heart  and  chastity  of  her  mind, 
resolved  to  raise  a  plant  from  the  precious  remains  of  this  daughter  of 
the  Dryads,  for  which  purpose  she  begged  the  assistance  of  Venus 
and  the  Graces,  as  well  as  of  all  the  deities  that  preside  over  gardens, 
to  assist  in  the  transformation  of  the  Nymph  into  a  flower,  that  was 
to  be  by  them  proclaimed  Queen  of  all  the  vegetable  beauties.  The 
ceremony  was  attended  by  the  Zephyrs,  who  cleared  the  atmosphere, 
in  order  that  Apollo  might  bless  the  new-created  progeny  by  his 
beams.  Bacchus  supplied  rivers  of  nectar  to  nourish  it,  and  Vertumnus 
poured  his  choicest  perfumes  over  the  plant.  WTien  the  metamor- 
phosis was  complete,  Pomona  strewed  her  fruit  over  the  young 
branches,  which  were  then  crowned  by  I'lora  with  a  diadem,  that  had 
been  purposely  prepared  by  the  celestials  to  distinguish  this  Queen  of 


I 


INTRODUCTION.  f 

Anacreon's  birth  of  the  Rose  stands  thus  translated  by  Moore : 

"  Oh  !  whence  could  such  a  plant  have  sprung? 
Attend — for  thas  the  tale  is  sung; 
When,  humid  from  the  silvery  stream, 
Venus  appeared,  in  flushing  hues, 
Mellowed  by  ocean's  briny  dews  — 
When,  in  the  starry  courts  above, 
The  pregnant  brain  of  mighty  Jove 
Disclosed  the  nymph  of  azure  glance — 
The  nymph  who  shakes  the  martial  lance  ! 
Then,  then,  in  strange  eventful  hour, 
The  earth  produced  an  infant  flower. 
Which  sprung,  with  blushing  tinctures  drest, 
And  wantoned  o'er  its  parent's  breast. 
The  gods  beheld  this  brilliant  birth, 
And  hailed  the  rose— the  boon  of  earth  ! 
With  nectar  drops  a  ruby  tide, 
The  sweetly-orient  buds  they  dyed, 
And  bade  them  bloom,  the  flowers  divine 
Of  him  who  sheds  the  teeming  vine  ; 
And  bade  them  on  the  spangled  thorn 
Expand  their  bosoms  to  the  morn."' 

The  first  Rose  ever  seen  was  said  to  have  been  given  by  the  god  of 
love  to  Harpocrates,  the  god  of  silence,  to  engage  him  not  to  divulge 
the  amours  of  his  mother  Venus ;  and  from  hence  the  ancients  made  it 
a  symbol  of  silence,  and  it  became  a  custom  to  place  a  Rose  above  their 
heads  in  their  banqueting  rooms,  in  order  to  banish  restraint,  as  no- 
thing there  said  would  be  repeated  elsewhere ;  and  from  this  practice 
originated  the  saying,  suh  rosa,  (under  the  rose,)  when  anything 
was  to  be  kept  secret. 

Oriana,  when  confined  a  prisoner  in  a  lofty  tower,  threw  a  wet  Rose 
to  her  lover  to  express  her  grief  and  love ;  and  .  in  the  floral  language 
of  the  East,  the  presenting  a  rose  bud  with  thorns  and  leaves,  is  under- 
stood to  express  both  fear  and  hope ;  and  when  returned,  reversed,  it 
signifies  that  one  must  neither  entertain  fear  nor  hope.  If  the  thorns 
be  taken  off  before  it  is  returned,  then  it  expresses  that  one  has  every- 
thing to  hope;  but  if  the  leaves  be  stripped  off,  it  gives  the  receiver  to 
understand  that  he  has  everything  to  fear. 

The  Moss  Rose  is  made  the  emblem  of  voluptuous  love ;  and  the 
creatii  e  imagination  of  a  German  poet  thus  pleasingly  accounts  foi 
this  Rose  having  clad  itself  in  a  mossy  garment : 

The  angel  of  the  flowers  one  day 
Beneath  a  rose  tree  sleeping  lay. 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES. 

That  spirit  to  whose  charge  is  given 

To  bathe  young  buds  in  dews  from  hearen, 

Awaking  from  his  light  repose, 

The  angel  whispered  to  the  rose, — 

'  Oh,  fondest  object  of  my  care, 

Still  fairest  found  where  all  are  fair, 

For  the  sweet  shade  thou'st  given  to  me, 

Ask  what  thou  wilt,  'tis  granted  thee.' 

'  Then,'  said  the  rose,  with  deepened  glow, 

'  On  me  another  grace  bestow.' 

The  spirit  paused  in  silent  thought — 

What  grace  was  there  that  flower  had  not  ? 

'Twas  but  a  moment — o'er  the  rose 

A  veil  of  moss  the  angel  throws  ; 

And,  robed  in  nature's  simplest  weed, 

Can  there  a  flower  that  rose  exceed  ?' 


SPECIES    AND    VARIETIES 

Botanists  enumerate  at  least  eighty  distinct  species  of  the  RcBe,  aad 
&  fists  an  almost  innumerable  number  of  varieties  and  «iub-varieties, 
most  of  which  are  hardy,  deciduous,  or  evergreen  shrubs.  To  attempt 
a  description  or  even  to  give  a  list  of  the  names  of  all  of  these  would 
be  foreign  to  the  design  of  this  little  treatise,  and  would  bf»  a  needless 
waste  of  time,  for  the  simple  reason  that  many  of  them  are  unworthy 
of  preservation,  while  in  others,  nothing  short  of  the  nicest  and  the 
most  minute  inspection  can  discover  any  difference. 

The  following  are  the  names  and  characters  of  the  more  importaol 
and  desirable  members  of  this  family,  best  adapted  to  this  coimtry 
and  may  be  purchased  at  any  of  our  principal  florists: — 

aftcnflal  or  IBailj  3Si03ts. 

Names.  Color  and   C  h  ttract  er  > 

Animated,  Rosy  blush. 

Arsenie,  Light  rose. 

Augustine  Hersent,  Superb  rose. 

Assuerus,  Crimson. 

Admiral  Duperre,  Dark  rose. 

Belle  Isidore,  Crimson. 


SPECrES   AND   VARIETIES. 


Names, 

Belle  de  Monza, 

Belle  violet, 

Bisson, 

Burette, 

Cameleon, 

Cramoisi  superieur, 

Cels, 

Comble  de  gloire, 

Don  Carlos, 

Duchess  of  Kent, 

Eugene  Beauharnais, 

Fabvier, 

Grandral, 

Grandida, 

Hortensia, 

Indica  alba, 

Jacksonia, 

Louis-Philippe, 

Lady  Warrender, 

Laurencia, 

MarjoUn, 

Mrs.  Bosanquet, 

Napoleon, 

Reine  de  Lombardie, 

Samson, 

Triomphant, 

Vanilla, 


Color  and  Charaettr, 

Dark  rose. 

Violet  purple. 

Eosy  blush. 

Dark  red. 

Rose. 

Crimson. 

Blush. 

Crimson. 

Dark  rose. 

Pink. 

Crimson. 

Scarlet. 

Crimson. 

Rose. 

Light  rose. 

Pure  white. 

Bright  red. 

Crimson. 

White. 

Pink. 

Crimson. 

Large,  blush. 

Rose,  fine. 

Cherry  red. 

Light  rose. 

Crimson. 

Dark  rose. 


a:ea=sccntc6  jRoses. 


jya  mes. 

Archduchess  Theresa, 
Aurora, 
Alba, 
Arkinto, 
Adelaide, 
Antherose, 
Adam, 

Belle  Marguerite, 
1* 


Color   and  C hnracter. 

White. 
Blush. 
Pure  white. 
Flesh  color. 
Blush. 

Blush  white. 
Rosy  blusL 
Rosy  purple. 


10 


SPECIES  AND  VARIETrES. 


Na  met, 
Bougere, 
Boutrand, 
Bon  Sil^ne, 
Bourbon, 
Barbot, 
Camellia, 
Caroline, 

Countess  Albemarle 
Due  d' Orleans, 
Devoniensis, 
Devaux, 

Delphine  G-audot, 
D'Arrance  de  Navarre, 
Eliza  Sauvage, 
Flon, 

Flavescens, 
Golcondi, 
Goubault, 

Gigantesque  de  Lima, 
Gloria  de  Hardi, 
Hymenee, 
Jaune  Panache, 
La  Sylphide, 
Lilicina, 
Lyonnais, 
L  a  Pactole, 
La  Renomme, 
Madame  Desprez, 
Mansais, 
Niphetos, 
Odoratissima, 
Princesse  Maria, 
Princesse  d'Esterhazy, 
Strombio, 

Triomphe  de  Luxembourg, 
Victoria  modeste, 
William  Wallace, 


Color  and  C  hara  ct*r 

Light  rose. 

Rosy  blush. 

Superb  red. 

White. 

Blush. 

White. 

Bright  rose. 

Straw  color 

Bright  rose. 

Creamy  yellow. 

Blush. 

White. 

Light  pink. 

Pale  sulphur. 

Buff. 

Yellow. 

Blush  white. 

Rosy  blush. 

Light  yellow. 

Light  rose. 

White. 

Straw  color. 

Rosy  buff. 

Lilac. 

Rose. 

Yellow. 

White. 

White. 

Rosy  buff. 

White. 

Rich  blush. 

Blush. 

Light  rose. 

White. 

Rosy  blush. 

Blush. 

Pale  blush. 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES. 


II 


3Souriion  Hosts. 


Names. 


Augustine  Lelieur, 

Acidalie, 

Comte  de  Rambuteau, 

Ceres; 

Cytherea, 

Comte  d'Eu, 

Doctor  Rocques, 

Dumont  de  Courset, 

Du  Petit  Thouars, 

Emilie  Courtier, 

Gloire  de  Rosamene, 

Gloire  de  Paris, 

Grand  Capitaine, 

Gloire  de  France, 

Hermosa, 

Henri  Plantier, 

Imp^ratrice  Josephine, 

Lady  Canning, 

Madame  Desprez, 

Madame  Souchet, 

Madame  Lacharme, 

Madame  Nerard, 

Marechal  de  Villars, 

Ninon  de  rEnclos, 

Paul  Joseph, 

Princesse  Clementine, 

Phoenix, 

Pierre  de  St  Cyr, 

Queen, 

Reine  de  Fontenay, 

Souchet, 

Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison, 

Th^resita, 


Color  and  C karaeter. 

Bright  rose. 

White,  large,  and  fine. 

Violet  purple. 

Dark  rose. 

Rosy  pink,  very  fragrant 

Bright  carmine. 

Purple  crimson. 

Deep  purple. 

Rosy  red. 
BriUiant  crimson. 
Bright  red. 
Brilliant  scarlet 
Rose,  very  fragrant 
Light  pink. 
Pale  rose. 
Creamy  white. 
Deep  rose. 
Rosy  lilac. 
Blush,  fine. 
Blush  white. 
Light  rose. 
Rosy  purple,  fine. 
Dark  rose. 
Velvet  crimson. 
Deep  rosy  purple. 
Rose  red. 
Light  rose. 
Dehcate  blush. 
Brilliant  rose. 
Deep  crimson. 
Creamy  white,  fine. 
Bright  carmiae. 


12 


SPECIES    AND    VARIETIEa 


3£lemontant  or  ^jlirili  33e»^petual  3£loses. 

In  Europe,  these  Roses  are  highly  esteemed ;  here,  their  reputation 
as  "  perpetuals,"  has  been  seriously  lajured,  in  consequence  of  their 
having  been,  in  many  instances,  worked  on  stocks  unsuited  either  to 
them,  or  to  our  chmate. — Landreth. 


J^Tame  s . 
Antinous, 
Aubernon, 

Augustine  Mouchelet, 
Baronne  Provost, 
Comte  de  Paris, 
Claire  du  Chatelet, 
Clementine  syringe, 
Comtesse  Duchatel, 
Crimson  or  rose  du  roi, 
D' Angers, 
Doctor  Marjolin, 
Due  d'Aumale, 
Duchesse  de  Nemours, 
Duchesse  de  Sutherland, 
Edouard  Jesse, 
Isaure, 
Israel, 

Insigne  D'Estotells, 
Josephine  Antoinette, 
Louis  Bonaparte, 
Lady  Fordvsrich, 
Lady  Alice  Peel, 
La  Reine,  or  Queen, 
Madame  Laflfay, 
Marquise  Bocella, 
Mrs.  EUiott, 
Melanie  cornu, 
Newton, 
Palmyre, 
Princesse  Hellne, 
Prince  Albert, 
Prudence  Tloeser, 


Color  and  Character . 
Dark  crimson. 
Clear  red,  very  fine. 
Clear  bright  rose. 
Fine  rose  color. 
Dark  crimson. 
Purple  red. 
Pale  rose. 

Light  crimson. 
Delicate  rose. 


Pale  rose. 

Bright  rose. 

Dark  purple  crimson. 

Bright  pink. 

Sable. 

Rosy  blush- 
Deep  Rose. 
Rosy  carmine. 
Rose  color,  superb. 
Brilliant  rose. 

Rosy  red. 
Deep  crimson. 

Blush. 

Large  deep  rose. 

Very  dark  crimson,  fine. 

Rosy  pink. 


SPECIES    AND    VARIETIES. 


13 


Names. 

Prince  de  Salm, 
Prince  of  Wales, 
Eeine  de  la  Guillotiere, 
Desquermus  or  Eoyal, 
Stanwell, 
Sisley, 

Wotsctte  or  ffiluster= 

Names . 
*Alba, 

*Aimge  Vibert, 
Bengal  Lee, 
Cadot, 

Charles  Tenth, 
Conque  de  Venus, 
Coeur  Jaune, 
Champneyana, 
*Comtesse  de  Grillion, 
Chromotelle, 
*Euphrosine, 
Fellenberg, 
*Gabriel, 
Jaune  Desprez, 
*J"ulienne  le  Sourd, 
Julie  de  Loynes, 
Lamarque, 
La  Biche, 
Lady  Byron, 
Lutea,  or  Smithii, 
Landreth's  carmine, 
*La  Nymphe, 
Miss  Simpson, 
Orloff, 
*Ophire, 

Sir  Walter  Scott, 
Solfatare, 
Vitellina, 


Color  and  Character. 
Dark  crimson. 
Eose  carmine. 
Brilliant  crimson. 
Large  rose. 
Blush,  very  fine. 
Large  bright  red. 

•Jflotoerins  2£loscs. 

Color  and  Character . 

Creamy  white. 

Pure  vs^hite. 

Blush,  fragrant. 

Blush  hlac. 

Purple. 

White  rose  centre. 

White  yellow  centre. 

Eosy  white. 

Blusn, 

Large  yellow,  fine. 

Pale  yellow. 

Crimson,  superb. 

Blush,  fine. 

Eosy  yellow. 

Eose. 

White. 

Creamy  white,  fine. 

Flesh  color. 

Pink,  fine. 

Fine  yellow. 

Carmine. 

Pale  rose. 

Blush. 

Pink,  fine. 

Yellow,  fragrant. 

Deep  rose. 

Superb  dark  yellow. 

White. 


•  ThoB8  marked  ♦  are  dwarfs. 


I« 


SPECIES  AND   VARIETIEg. 


Climbing  jJXoses. 

These  flower  annl.ally  in  immense  clusters,  grow  rapitUy,  and  are 
quite  hardy. — Lanch-eth. 


Names. 
Banksia  lutea, 
Banksia  alba, 
Boursault, 
Boursault  purpurea, 
Boursault  blush, 
Boursault  gracilis, 
Bengalensis  scandens, 
Felioite  perpetuelle, 
Grevillia, 


Multiflora, 

Multiflora  alba, 

Rubifolia,   Single  Michigan  or 

Prairie, 
Rubifolia  elegans, 
Rubifolia  purpurea, 
Rubifolia,  Queen  of  the  Prairies, 
Rubifolia  alba, 
Russelliana, 
Sempervirens  plena, 
Triomphe  de  Bollwyler, 
Laura  Davoust, 


Color  and   C haractet . 

Double  yellow. 

White. 

Rose  color. 

Purple. 

Large  blush. 

Bright  rose. 

Large  rosy  white. 

Blush  white. 

G-reville  produces  im- 
mense clusters,  of  vari- 
ous colors  and  shades, 
from  white  to  crimson. 

Pmk. 

Blush  white. 


Double  pink. 
Double  purple. 
Double  pink. 
Double  blush  white. 
Crimson  cottage  roso. 
Superb  white. 
Blush  white. 
White. 


Jtt(ct;op|)slla  3Sioaz3. 


Namet. 
Maria  Leonida, 
Miorophylla  rosea, 
Microphylla  oiiorata  alba. 


Color  and  Charaetn 

White,  extra  fine. 
Rose  color. 
Creamy  white. 


SPKCIE3  AND   VARIETIES. 


16 


iiau3fe««cctrtcO  3Xosts. 


Namti. 

Moschata, 
Moschata  superba, 
Princesse  de  Nassau, 


Color  and.  Character . 

White  semi-double. 
Pure  white,  very  double. 
White  double. 


TQarDs  €racDen  a£loses. 


Karnes. 

MiauUs, 

Coronation, 

Reine  des  roses, 

Due  d' Orleans, 

Painted  Damask, 

Brennes, 

Eivers'  George  IV., 

Hybride  blanche, 

Heureuse  surprise, 

Eanunculus, 

La  capricieuse. 

Royal  Provins, 

Du  Roi, 

Harrisonii, 

Moss,  Single, 

Moss,  Common, 

Moss,  Luxembourg, 

Moss,  White, 

Moss,  Crested, 

Moss,  Adelaide, 

York  and  Lancaster, 

Provins  Belgic, 

Four  Seasons, 

Moretti, 

Burgundy, 

Persian, 

Village  Maid,  or  La  Belle  Villa 

geoise, 
Austrian  Brier 


Color  and   Character. 
Rosy  purple. 
Purple  crimson. 
Bright  crimson. 
Dark  rose. 
White. 
Dark  pink. 
Superb  crimson. 
White. 
Carmine. 
Purple,  compact. 
Purple  crimson. 
Superb  pink. 
Perpetual,  bright  red. 
Yellow  Austrian  brier. 
Crimson,  very  mossy. 
Rose. 
Crimson. 
Perpetual. 


Red  and  white. 
Large  pink. 
Pink. 

Light  rose. 
Rose,  compact. 
Double  yellow. 

Rose,  striped  with  lilac. 
Deep  yellow 


J  6  SPECIES   AND    VARIET^pS. 

In  contemplating  some  cf  the  best  Roses  from  the  various  families, 
we  cannot  help  admitting,  that,  compared  with  the  old  and  still  valued 
varieties,  more  than  two-thirds  even  of  our  selections  are  not  so  good 
in  character.  The  love  of  novelty  is  all-powerful ;  a  shade  of  color, 
the  slightest  difference  in  habit,  a  different  season  of  bloom,  an  alter- 
ation in  the  size  or  color  of  the  foliage,  the  distinction  between  a  slow 
and  a  fast  growth,  have  always  been  considered  sufficient  by  sellers  to 
warrant  a  new  name  and  a  place  in  the  catalogues ;  and  the  Rose, 
unlike  all  other  flowers,  began  with  better  varieties  than  hundreds  of 
their  successors,  or  rather  their  younger  rivals,  proved  to  be. 

Notwithstanding  many  of  the  early  Roses  were  really  beautiful, 
and  hardly  admitted  of  much  improvement,  we  had,  at  a  very  early 
period  of  the  fancy,  such  Roses  as  the  Tuscan,  the  Cabbage,  the  Cab- 
bage Moss,  the  Maiden's  Blush,  White  Provence,  and  Double  Yellow. 
These  have,  it  is  true,  been  succeeded  by  a  few  worthy  of  ranking 
with  them,  but  they  have  to  be  selected  from  thousands  infinitely 
worse,  and  hundreds  which  ought  not,  for  the  raiser's  honesty,  or  the 
buyer's  good  sense,  to  have  even  passed  the  seed  bed.  If,  therefore, 
we  were  to  select,  to  lessen  our  readers'  difficulty  in  choosing,  we 
could  not  recommend  them  as  Roses  equal  to  old  favorites ;  for  not 
one  in  fifty  would  beat  the  few  we  have  mentioned,  and  which  ought 
to  be  the  first  they  furnisL 


Tlie  Provence  Rose. 

The  Provence  Rose,  or,  as  it  has  been  called,  the  Hundred-leaved 
Rose,  is  a  distinguishing  title  for  every  Rose  that  has  a  remarkably 
double  flower,  unless  there  is  something  in  the  habit  or  character  that 
claims  for  it  another  title.  If  this  were  understood,  we  should  know 
what  we  are  about.  The  Moss  Rose  would  clearly  come  under  this, 
were  it  not  for  the  moss;  for  the  old  Cabbage  Rose,  and  the  Moss 
Rose  strongly  grown,  would  not  be  known  from  each  other,  except  for 
the  Moss;  and  the  Moss  Rose  would  be  a  Moss  Rose,  if  ever  so  single, 
chough  its  original  were  double  and  fine.  Now,  the  Provences,  of 
which  the  old  Cabbage  Rose  is  a.  sort  of  type,  and  generally  called  the 
Hundred-leaved  Rose,  ceases  to  deserve  this  name,  if  semi-double.  So 
that  although  the  origin  of  the  family  is  rightly  named,  many  pushed 
into  the  same  list  do  not  deserve  the  name. 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES.  -  17 


Moss    Rose. 

This  family  is  distinguished  by  the  mossy  appearance  of  their  stems 
and  the  calyx,  and  therefore  there  is  no  difficulty  in  recognising  any 
member  of  the  family. 

The   Frencli    Rose. 

This,  to  some  of  our  readers,  would  appear  to  mean  roses  raised  in 
France.  It  happens,  however,  that  the  original  was,  as  many  of  the 
leading  ones  were,  raised  by  Van  Eden,  in  Holland,  and  it  was  years 
before  the  French  raised  a  single  seedling  from  them ;  nevertheless 
some  of  the  so-called  varieties  were  raised  in  France,  but  as  there  are 
hundreds  raised  in  that  country  which  are  not  belonging  to  this  family, 
the  distinguishing  name  fails ;  and  were  it  not  so,  they  are  so  unlike 
each  other  that  one  could  not  recognise,  in  any  particular  feature, 
«.nough  to  decide,  nor  do  the  rose  growers  themselves  appear  more 
certain. 

Hybrid  Provence   Roses. 

These  are  said  to  be  intermediate  between  French  and  Provence 
roses,  because  they  have  the  long  shoots  of  one  and  the  dense  foliage 
of  the  other ;  the  said  long  shoots  and  dense  foliage  being  the  charac- 
teristics of  roses  of  other  famiUes  in  quite  as  large  a  degree,  and  even 
in  this  very  family,  we  have  varieties  which  seem  to  be  between  the 
Boursault  and  Provence.  So  that  all  is  indecision,  change,  uncertainty, 
and  frivolity.  In  this  family,  the  distinguishing  character  is  that  they 
"are  robust  and  hardy  ;"  so  are  hundreds  that  do  not  belong  to  it. 

Hybrid  China  Roses. 

We  are  told  of  this  family,  that  the  numerous  varieties  give  a  com- 
bination of  all  that  is  beautiful  in  a  Rose.  They  are  said  to  owe  their 
origin  to  all  sorts  of  crosses ;  but  there  is  a  distinguishing  feature  in 
these,  if  it  be  adhered  to:  "leaves  smooth,  glossy,  and  sub-evergreen; 
branches  long,  luxuriant,  and  flexible."  Then,  again,  we  are  informed 
"that  hybrids  produced  from  the  Rose,  impregnated  with  the  China 


1.8  SPECIES   AND    VARIETIES. 

Rose,  are  not  cf  such  robust  and  vigorous  habits  as  when  the  China 
Rose  is  the  female  parent."  This  looks  like  plain,  straightforward 
information ;  but  it  is  followed  by  the  same  incertitude  as  some  of  thr 
other  distinguishing  features  of  families.  Mr.  Rivers  adds:  "But,  per 
haps,  this  is  an  opinion  not  borne  out  by  facts ;  for  the  exceptions  are 
numerous,  and  like  many  other  variations  in  roses,  and  plants  in  gen- 
eral, seems  to  hid  defiance  to  systematic  rules."  Of  course,  they  do  ; 
and,  with  the  exception  of  those  names  which  bespeak  a  distinct  char- 
acter, the  splitting  of  this  beautiful  flower  into  so  many  different  fam- 
iUes  at  all,  was  a  very  injudicious  measure.  Athelin,  a  Rose  classed  in 
this  group,  is  called  also  a  Hybrid  Bourbon,  and  as  it  blooms  in  clus- 
ters, would  have  been  much  better  understood  if  called  a  Noisette. 
It  comprises  other  roses  as  unlike  each  other  as  can  be  well  imagined, 
and  many  of  them  will  shoot  ten  feet  in  a  season,  and  would  be  much 
more  at  home  if  classed  as  Climbing  Roses.  Belle  de  Rosny,  among 
this  family,  is  nevertheless  called  also  a  Hybrid  Bourbon,  and  many 
others  of  this  family  are  destined  to  be  removed,  if  the  senseless  dis- 
tinctions by  name  are  to  be  kept  up. 


White   Roses. 

Here  we  have  an  illustration  of  the  extreme  folly  of  the  present  dis- 
tinctions. We  are  told  the  roses  of  this  division  may  be  easily  dis- 
tinguished by  their  green  shoots,  and  leaves  of  a  glaucous  green, 
looking  as  if  they  were  covered  with  a  grayish  impalpable  powder ; 
and  flowers  generally  of  the  most  delicate  colors,  graduating  from  a 
pure  white  to  a  bright  but  delicate  pink. 


The    Damask  Rose. 

,  .ud  is  as  incongruous  a  group  as  any.  Blanche  borde  de  rouge 
has  flowers  sometimes  a  pure  white,  at  others  margined  with  red. 
Claudine  has  flowers  of  a  pale  rose  cclor.  York  and  Lancaster,  also 
classed  among  them,  has  flowers  striped  with  red  and  white.  Coralie 
is  flesh  color.  Then  we  have  Madame  Hardy,  which,  we  are  fairly 
told,  "  is  not  a  pure  Damask  Rose ;"  perhaps  not,  as  it  is  white,  and 
unlike  all  the  rest.     Then,  there  is  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  which  Mr. 


SPECIES   AND    VARIETIES.  10 

Ilivers  "  at  firfil  thought  a  Hybrid  China,"  and  says,  "  will,  perhaps, 
be  better  grouped  with  the  Damask  Roses. ' 

Scotch    Roses. 

So  long  as  this  family  was  allowed  to  be  kept  select,  these  roses 
were  very  distinct ;  they  make  long  briery  shoots,  and  flower  with 
small  blooms  almost  like  briers,  the  whole  lensrth  of  stems.  They  are 
exceedingly  pretty,  formed  as  a  bank,  or  in  clumps.  They  are  not 
adapted  for  standards.  They  bloom  early,  and  the  Scotch  nurserymen 
now  boast  of  two  or  thre  e  hundred  varieties :  but  like  all  the  other 
families,  there  are  many  among  them  that  have  hf-en  raised  from  seed, 
and  others  imported,  which  are  neither  by  name  nor  nature  Scotch. 
Amiable  etrangere  is  a  French  hybrid.  Adelaide  is  a  large  Red  Double 
Rose.  La  Cenomane  is  a  French  hybrid  with  large  flowers,  "not  so 
robust  as  the  pure  Scotch  varieties." 

The   Sweet   Brier. 

This  lovely  ornament,  or  rather  tenant  of  the  garden,  is  universally 
admired  for  the  delicious  fragrance  of  its  foliage,  and  for  nothing  else. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  say  here,  that  others  whose  leaves  are  not  fra- 
grant have  been  placed  with  it  to  make  a  family ;  some  of  the  new 
members  having  but  little  fragrance,  and  one,  the  Scarlet  Sweet  Brier, 
none  at  all. 

The   Austrian   Brier. 

Here  we  have  the  same  evidence  of  indecision  as  to  where  things 
ought  to  be  placed.  In  this  scentless  family  we  have  WiUiams'  Double 
Yellow  Sweet  Brier.  In  fact,  the  Sweet  Brier  and  the  Austrian  Brier 
are  muddled  together  so  completely  that  catalogues  do  not  agree,  and 
the  further  we  go,  the  more  confusion  we  get  into,  and  more  instances 
occur  of  removal  from  one  division  to  another. 

The    Double    Yellow   Rose 

Here  we  have  only  two  individuals,  the  old  Double  Golden  Yellow, 
sc  beautiful  and  double  as  to  be  universally  admired,  and  the  Jaune, 
a  dwarf  kind,  both  shy  bloomers  under  ordinary  management,  or, 


20  SPECIES    AND    VARIETIES. 

when  we  come  to  the  right  of  it,  never  blooming  vs^ell  till  they  are 
matured,  which  takes  some  years.  Of  course,  there  are  many  Double 
Yellow  Roses,  but  only  two  are  admitted  into  this  select  family. 

Clim'bing    Roses. 

Here  we  might  expect  to  find  all  those  roses  which,  from  their 
habits,  were  adapted  to  the  fronts  of  houses,  pillars,  trellises,  and  other 
lofty  stations.  One  would,  at  least,  expect  that,  if  Climbing  Roses 
mean  anything,  it  means  all  roses  that  will  climb.  No  such  things 
Having  pushed,  we  know  not  how  many  roses  that  climb  into  other 
families,  of  course  they  cannot  be  here.  We  have  various  divisions 
in  this  family  notwithstanding:  First,  we  have  the  Ayrshire  Rose, 
which  is  said  to  be  a  hybrid,  accompanied  by  several  others  called 
Ayrshire  Roses  also ;  next,  we  have  the  second  division,  called  Rosa 
multiflora,  said  to  be  a  native  of  Japan,  and  a  number  of  companions 
as  unhke  it  as  may  be ;  not  that  there  are  any  among  this  family  that 
do  not  climb,  but  there  are  very  many  as  good  Climbing  Roses  shut 
out  from  it. 

The  Queen  of  the  Prairies,  or  Michigan  Rose,  is  remarkable  for  its 
perfectly  hardy  growth,  flourishing  equally  well  in  Canada  at  the 
north,  and  in  Texas  at  the  south.  It  grows  with  unparalleled  rapid- 
ity, exceeding  all  other  roses  of  this  family,  covering  an  entire  arbor 
or  an  old  building  in  a  short  space  of  time.  It  blooms,  also,  after  other 
summer  roses  are  mostly  gone,  its  flowers  occurring  in  large  clusters 
of  different  shades. 

JSvergreen   Roses. 

Here  there  can  be  no  mistake :  an  Evergreen  Rose  must  be  an 
Evergreen  Rose ;  but,  although  we  have  some  enumerated,  there  are 
plenty  of  Evergreen  Roses  not  admitted  into  this  family,  but  pushed 
about  in  all  directions,  some  crammed  into  the  China,  and  some  into 
the  Hybrid  China. 

Boursault  Roses. 

This  is  said  to  be  "a  most  distinct  group  of  roses,  with  long  red- 
dish flexible  shoots;"  yet  Gracilis  is  affirmed  to  be  "unlike  the  other 
varieties  of  this  division."  They  are  said  to  be  good  Climbing 
making  ten  feet  of  growth  in  the  season. 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES.  21 

Banisian    Rosea. 

The  T\'hite  and  Yellow  Banksian  Eoses  are  very  beautiful  plants, 
with  small  foliage  and  flowers,  very  graceful,  and  distinct  as  any 
in  cultivation ;  yet  we  have  a  rose-colored  hybrid  introduced  with 
them  ;  a  plant  acknowledged  to  partake  "  as  much  of  the  character 
of  the  Boursault  Rose,  as  of  the  Banksian." 

Hybrid  Climbing  Rosea. 
These,  one  would  think,  are  neither  Climbing  nor  Dwarf;  but  be- 
tween both.  Not  so,  however ;  because  Rosa  craculum  makes  shoots 
from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  a  season.  Madame  d'Arblay,  or  Well's 
White,  has  been  formerly  placed  among  the  Evergreen  Roses ;  but 
whether  she  misbehaved  herself  there,  or  was  a  great  favorite  here,  is 
of  no  consequence.  She  was  removed  from  that  family  to  this.  We 
are,  however,  informed,  with  regard  to  her  sojourn  among  the  family 
of  Evergreens,  and  subsequent  removal,  that  her  "habit  is  so  different 
and  her  origin  so  well  ascertained,  that  Mr.  Rivers  removed  her  to  the 
present  family." 

Perpetual  Roses. 
These,  if  the  rose  gentlemen  would  stick  to  the  character,  would 
be  very  easily  defined— roses  which  have  a  complete  season  of  bloom; 
which  go  off  but  a  short  time ;  make  a  fresh  season  of  bloom,  and  so 
on.  Not  like  the  China  Roses,  always  "growing  and  blooming,"  but 
fairly  making  different  seasons  of  bloom,  as  complete  as  if  a  winter 
intervened. 


The  Bourbon  Rose. 
The  original  Bourbon  Rose  was  a  hybrid  between  the  Common 
China  and  the  Red  Four  Seasons.  Of  course,  this  was  quite  enough 
reason  for  rose  growers  to  add  to  the  family  all  that  were  something 
like  it,  and  others  that  were  nothing  like  it.  Here  let  Mr.  Rivers 
speak  :  "Diaphane  is  a  small  high-colored  Rose,  almost  scarlet.  This 
is  not  a  true  Bov-rbon."  The  fact  is,  there  is  nothing  like  the  Bourbon 
Rose  about  it.  Here  we  have  also  Gloire  de  Rosam^nc.  unlike  the 
Bourbon  Rose  in  everything.    It  is  a  robust  Climbing  Rose,  of  which 


22  SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES. 

even  Mr.  Rivers  himself  says,  "  As  a  Pillar  Rose,  it  will  form  a  splendid 
object."  The  White  Bourbon,  which  the  French  cultivators  are  at 
war  about,  "some  swearing,"  as  Mr.  Rivers  tells  us,  "by  all  their 
saints  that  it  is  a  veritable  Bourbon,  while  others  as  strongly  maintain 
that  it  is  a  Noisette ;"  and  from  its  clustered  flowers  the  latter  are 
nearest  right.     But  all  this  arises  from  the  multipUcation  of  famiUes. 

Cliina  Rosea. 

Everybody  knows  the  Pale  China  and  the  Dark  China  Roses,  which 
may  be  seen  decorating  the  cottages  of  our  industrious  classes  as  well 
as  the  gardens  of  the  rich.  They  were,  however,  Bengal  Roses,  and 
not  natives  of  China.  Now  the  distinguishing  characteristic  of  the 
Bengal,  or,  as  now  called,  China  Rose,  is  smooth  bark,  with  the  thorns 
distant  from  each  other ;  shining  leaves,  and  constant  growing  and 
blooming.  These  features  could  be  well  understood  by  everybody ; 
but  everything  that  can  be  at  all  traced  to  have  any  one  of  these  fea- 
tures, and  cannot  be  easily  placed  in  other  families,  must  come  to  this ; 
and  so  we  have  plenty,  and  a  most  beautiful  family  it  is. 

Tea-acented  Cliina  Iloaes. 

This  is  an  acknowledged  variation  of  the  Bengal,  or,  as  the  rose 
dealers  will  have  it,  China  Rose  ;  but  it  is  a  true  China,  imported  into 
England  from  that  empire  in  1810.  It  is  said  to  have  been  the  parent 
of  this  large  family ;  but  here  we  have  the  same  difficulty  that  pre- 
sents itself  in  other  families — there  is  no  place  to  draw  the  line ;  they 
are  China  Roses,  and  only  China  Roses,  but  they  are  stronger  scented 
than  the  Bengal,  called  Common  China,  and  it  is  difficult  to  detect  the 
difference  between  the  highest  perfumed  of  the  former  class  and  the 
lowest  perfnmed  of  the  China  Tea  Roses,  as  now  classed. 

Winiature   Boaes. 

This  family  is  also  said  to  be  China,  possessing  all  the  marked  fea- 
tures ;  but  it  is  smaller  than  the  others,  and  is  acknowledged  by  Mr. 
Rivers  to  be  only  a  dwarf  variety  of  the  Common  China,  or,  as  we 
insist,  Bengal  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  all  those  so-called  China 
Rosea  have  the  characteristics  we  have  mentioned,  the  constant  grow- 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES.  23 

ing  and  blooming,  if  kept  in  order  under  proper  protection ;  and  are 
iii)t  deciduous. 

The    Noisette  Rose. 

The  distinguishing  ckaracter  of  this  Rose  is  that  it  flowers  ia 
bunches,  and  this  ought  to  be  the  character  of  every  one  added  to  the 
family.  But  here  we  have  Lamarque,  which  is  anything  but  a  Noi- 
sette ;  it  does  not  flower  in  bunches,  unless  every  Rose  which  has  two 
or  three  flowers  on  a  stem  is  to  be  called  Noisette ;  and  Smith's  Tel- 
tow  Noisette  is  about  as  much  entitled  to  the  name  of  Lamarque.  But 
they  are  not  alone ;  too  many  which  have  no  claim  on  the  family  have 
aevertheless  been  forced  on  them. 

The   Musk  Rose 

This  is  an  old  favorite,  and  many  which  nave  been  supposed  to 
come  from  its  seed  are  fastened  on  it  as  a  family,  and  many  not  very 
like  the  parent.  The  family,  like  some  of  the  others,  is  greatly  con- 
fused, and  there  is  nothing  so  distinct  as  to  connect  it  as  a  separate 
class. 

The   Macartney   Roea. 

The  characteristic  of  this  Rose  is  its  very  bright  thick  evergreen 
foliage,  and  therefore  any  other  Hybrid  Roses  which  have  that  char- 
acteristic might,  according  to  other  classifications,  be  put  among 
these.  Maria  Leonida  is  perhaps  the  best  of  them ;  Rosa  berberifolia 
hardii,  of  whose  origin  Mr.  Rivers  makes  a  sad  muddle,  is  classed  with 
this  family.  ^Mr.  Rivers'  story  is,  that  "  Rosa  hardii  was  raised  from 
seed  by  Mons.  Hardy,  of  the  Luxembourg  Gardens,  from  Rosa  involu- 
cre, a  variety  of  Rosa  bracteata,  fertilised  with  that  unique  rose,  Rosa 
berberifolia  which  was  very  firequently  exported  from  Persia,  and  comes 
always  true  to  the  parent ;  some  of  the  Persian  seed  was  sent  to 
Mons.  Hardy,  and  from  that  he,  like  others,  raised  the  true  Rosa  ber- 
berifoha,  which  Mr.  Lee,  of  the  Hammersmith  Nursery,  raised  from 
Persian  seed  likewise,  more  than  twenty  years  before  Mr.  Hardy  was 
a  rose  raiser  at  all."  "Well  may  Mr.  Rivers  say,  in  continuation,  "This 
curious  hybrid,  like  its  Persian  parent,  has  single  yellow  flowers,  with 
a  dark  eye,  and  evergreen  foliage."     The  fertilising  part  of  the  busi- 


24 


SPECIES    AND    VARIETIES. 


ness  is  the  mere  work  of  a  fertile  imagination.  When  any  one  has 
got  Eosa  berberifolia,  he  need  not  trouble  himself  about  whether  hi 
has  it  from  the  seed  raised  by  Mons.  Hardy,  or  the  seed  raised  by  his 
predecessors.  There  is  no  more  variation,  and  no  more  hybrid  about 
either,  than  thei-e  is  in  two  plants  of  small  salad. 

RoBu  Microphylla. 

This,  we  are  told,  is  nearly  allied  to  the  Macartney  Rose ;  so  are 
the  varieties  of  it,  and  ought  not  to  have  been  separated. 


Qtjxsk  (Rosa  'bourboniana). 


ii.. 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES. 


25 


Jadnk  Dkspbez    (Tello'w  Rose) 


8 


26 


SPECIES  ADD   VARISXIES. 


YMr.i^ov  Banksian  Boss   (Rosa  banlrsia  lut«A 


SPECIES   AND   VARIETIES. 


27 


SlfAxt  Leaplkttkd  Rosb    (Roaa  mierophyll*). 


SPECIES  AND  VARIETIia. 


^^x 


BnRotTKDT  KosK    (Boss  s*llio*). 


SPECIES    AND   VARIETIES. 


29 


Thz  Villaob  Ma.id    (La  Belle  VillageoiseK 


30 


SPKCIKS    AND   VARIETIES 


W1LI.IAM8   DouBLB  Yellow  Swkkt   Ssibb. 


CHARACTERISTICS   OF   A   FINE   ROSE.  31 


CHARACTERISTICS    OP    A  FINE    ROSE. 

There  is  no  flower  more  difficult  to  define  than  the  Rose,  and  the 
difficulty  arises  out  of  several  curious  facts.  First,  it  is  the  only  flower 
that  is  beautiful  in  all  its  stages — from  the  instant  the  calyx  bursts  and 
shows  a  streak  of  the  corolla,  till  it  is  in  full  bloom.  Secondly,  it  is 
the  only  one  that  is  really  rich  in  its  confusion,  or  that  is  not  the  less 
elegant  for  the  total  absence  of  all  uniformity  and  order.  The  very 
fact  of  its  being  beautiful  from  the  moment  the  calyx  bursts,  makes 
the  single  and  semi-double  roses,  up  to  a  certain  stage,  as  good  as 
the  perfectly  double  ones;  and  there  is  yet  another  point  in  the  forma- 
tion of  some  varieties,  which  makes  them  lose  their  beauty  Avhen  they 
are  full  blown.  For  instance,  the  Moss  Rose  is  a  magnificent  object 
so  long  as  the  calyx  is  all  seen,  but  so  soon  as  the  flower  fully  expands, 
all  the  distinction  between  a  Moss  Rose  and  a  common  one  has  de- 
parted, or  is  concealed.  This  brings  us  at  once  to  an  acknowledg- 
ment that  the  grand  characteristic  of  a  Moss  Rose  is  its  calyx.  These 
properties  must  never  be  estimated  by  full-blown  flowers,  and  there- 
fore, all  varieties  of  Moss  Roses  must  be  exhibited  before  they  expand 
enough  to  hide  the  calyx. 

There  are  some  properties,  however,  which  apply  to  all  roses,  what- 
ever be  their  characteristics  in  other  respects,  and,  therefore,  must  be 
taken  as  an  estimable  point  in  the  construction  of  a  flower. 

1.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  broad,  and  smooth  at  the  edges. 
Whether  this  be.  for  a  Moss,  which  is  never  to  be  shown  fully 

opened,  or  the  florist's  favorite,  which  is  to  be  shown  as  a  dahlia,  thif 
property  is  equally  valuable,  be  use  the  thicker  the  petal,  the  longei 
it  is  opening,  and  the  longer  does  it  co  tinue  in  perfection,  when  it  is 
opened.  There  is  another  essential  point  gained  in  thick-petalleo 
floAvers:  The  thicker  the  petal,  the  more  dense  and  decided  the  shad" 
or  color,  or  the  more  pure  a  white,  while  the  most  briUiant  scarlet 
would  look  tame  and  watery  if  the  petal  were  thin,  transparent,  and 
flimsy.  Hence,  many  semi-double  varieties,  with  these  petals,  look 
bright  enough  while  the  petals  are  crowded  in  the  bud,  but  are  watery 
and  tame  when  opened,  and  dependent  on  their  single  thickness. 

2.  The  flower  should  be  highly  perfumed,  or,  as  the  dealers  call  it, 
franrart. 


32  CHARACTERISTICS   OF   A   FINE   ROSE. 

Whether  this  is  to  climb  the  front  of  a  house,  bloom  on  the  ground, 
or  mount  poles  or  other  devices,  fragrance  is  one  of  the  great  charms 
which  place  the  Rose  on  the  throne  of  the  garden  as  the  Queen  of 
Flowers. 

3.  The  flower  should  be  double  to  the  centre,  high  on  the  crown, 
round  in  the  outline,  and  regular  in  the  disposition  of  the  petals. 

This  would  seem  to  be  a  little  contradictory,  after  saying,  that  in  a 
Moss  Rose,  the  full-blowu  flower  cannot  be  allowed,  because  it  con- 
ceals the  grand  characteristic  of  the  plant.  But  it  is  not  contradictory, 
because  we  defend  it  on  grounds  which  render  doubleness  equally 
valuable  to  the  Moss  family,  which  should  not  be  shown  in  full  bloom, 
as  to  those  which  are  so  exhibited.  The  more  double  the  flower,  even 
when  amounting  to  confusion,  the  more  full  and  beautiful  the  bud  in 
all  its  stages.  Those  who  have  noticed  the  single  and  semi-double 
Moss  Roses  will  remember  that  the  buds  are  thin  and  pointed,  and 
starved-looking  affairs,  while  the  old  common  Moss  Rose,  which  is 
large  and  double  as  the  Cabbage  Rose,  is  bold,  full,  rich,  and  effective, 
from  the  instant  the  calyx  bursts.  At  this  point,  we  shall  have  to 
branch  off  and  take  families;  perhaps  the  Moss  Rose  family  is  the  best 
to  commence  with.  Those  who  now  follow  through  the  different 
species  or  varieties,  will  find  the  first  three  rules  are  essential  to  all, 
and  are  therefore  repeated  with  each  division. 


Propertieo    jf  Moss   Roses. 

1.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  broad,  and  smooth  at  the  edges. 

2.  The  flower  should  be  highly  perfumed,  or,  as  the  dealers  call  it, 
fragrant. 

3.  The  flower  should  be  double  to  the  centre,  high  on  the  crown, 
round  in  the  outline,  and  regular  in  the  disposition  of  the  petals. 

4.  The  quantity  of  moss,  the  length  of  the  spines,  or  prickle.s,  which 
form  it,  and  its  thickness,  or  closeness,  on  the  stems,  leaves,  and  calyx, 
canaot  be  too  great. 

This  being  the  distinguishing  characteristic  of  Moss  Roses,  the 
more  strongly  it  is  developed  the  better. 

5.  The  length  of  the  divisiais  of  the  calyx,  and  the  ramifications 
at  the  end,  cannot  be  too  great.     As  the  entire  beauty  is  in  the  unde- 


CHARACTERISTICS   OF   A   FINE   ROSE. 


3d 


r eloped  bad.  the  more  tha  calyx  projects  beyond  the  opening  flower, 
or  rather  tlie  more  space  it  covers,  the  better. 

6.  The  plant  should  be  bushy,  the  foliage  strong,  the  flowers  abun- 
dant and  not  crowded,  and  the  bloom  well  out  of  the  foUage. 


Diagram   of  a   Pinb  Double   Rosb. 


7.  The  color  should  be  bright  or  dense,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  if 
ihe  color  or  shade  be  new,  it  will  be  more  valuable ;  and  the  color 
must  be  the  same  at  the  back  as  the  front  of  the  petals. 

These  seven  properties  would  constitute  a  Moss  Kose  a  valuable 
acquisition,  and  probably,  at  present,  the  greatest  acquisition  would 
be  a  yellow  one. 

8.  The  stem  should  be  sti'ong  and  elastic,  the  footstalks  stiff,  so  as 
to  bold  the  flower  well  up  to  view. 

2* 


«M  CHARACTERISTICS   OF   A   FINE   ROSE. 


Properties   of  Roses   for   Stands,    sho-wing   the    Single  Bloom 
like   Dalilias. 

1.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  broad,  and  smooth  at  the  edges. 

2.  The  flower  should  be  highly  perfumed,  or,  as  the  dealers  call  it, 
fragrant. 

3.  The  flower  should  be  double  ti  the  centre,  high  on  the  crown, 
round  in  the  outhne,  and  regular  in  the  disposition  of  the  petals. 

4.  The  petals  should  be  imbricated,  and  in  distinct  rows,  whether 
they  be  reflexed,  like  some  of  the  velvety  Tuscan  kind,  or  cupped  hke 
a  ranunculus ;  and  the  petals  to  the  centre  should  continue  the  same 
f-^rm,  and  only  be  reduced  in  size. 

5.  The  color  should  be  distinct  and  new,  and  stand  fast  against  the 
sun  and  air,  till  the  bloom  fail. 

6.  The  stem  should  be  strong,  the  footstalk  stiflf  and  elastic  ;  the 
blooms  well  out  beyond  the  foliage,  and  not  in  each  other's  way. 

The  very  worst  habit  a  Rose  can  have,  is  that  of  throwing  up  sev- 
eral blooms  close  together,  on  short  stiff  footstalks,  some  of  which 
must  be  cut  away  before  the  othei's  can  be  fully  developed  ;  as  show 
flowers,  they  are  bad,  and  as  plants,  they  are  very  untidy.  The  side 
buds  prevent  the  centre  flowers  from  opening  circularly,  and  when 
the  first  beauty  is  oS",  they  exhibit  dead  roses  held  fast  between  two 
living  ones. 

Properties    of  Noisette   Rosea. 

However  singularly  some  catalogues  class  these  varieties,  we  intend, 
by  this  name,  to  distinguish  those  roses  which  bloom  in  clusters. 

1.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  broad,  and  smooth  at  the  edges. 

2.  The  flower  should  be  highly  perfumed,  or,  as  the  dealers  call  it^ 
fragrant. 

3.  The  flower  should  be  double  to  the  centre,  high  on  the  crown, 
round  in  the  outline,  and  regular  in  the  disposition  of  the  petals. 

4.  The  cluster  should  be  sufficiently  open  to  enable  all  the  flowers 
to  bloom  freely,  and  the  stems  and  footstalks  should  be  firm  and 
elastic,  to  hold  the  flower  face  upward,  or  face  outward,  and  not 
bang  down,  and  show  the  outside,  instead  of  the  inside  of  the  blooma 

5.  The  bloom  should  be  abundant  at  the  end  of  every  shoot. 


CHARACTERISTICS    OF    A    FINE    ROSE. 


35 


G.  The  blooming  shoots  should  not  exceed  twelve  inches  before 
they  flower. 

■".  The  bloom  should  stand  o  .t  beyond  the  foliage,  and  the  plant 
should  be  compact  and  bushy. 

We  now  proceed  to  a  family  which  we  shall  designate  Climbing 
Roses,  and  which  comprise  blooms  of  the  Noisette  kind,  that  is,  in 
bunches ;  blooms  which  come  singly,  large  and  small ;  flowers  early 
and  late ;  and,  in  fact,  which  comprise  all  sorts  of  roses  that  grow  tall 
enough  for  training. 

Properties    of  ClimlDing    Roses. 

1.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  broad,  and  smooth  at  the  edges,  with 
the  outer  ones  curving  shghtly  inwards. 

2.  The  flower  should  be  highly  perfumed,  or,  as  the  dealers  call  it, 
fragrant. 

3.  The  flower  should  be  double  to  the  centre,  high  on  the  crown, 
round  in  the  outUne,  and  regular  in  the  disposition  of  the  petals. 

4.  The  joints  should  be  short  from  leaf  to  leaf.  The  blooms  should 
oome  on  very  short  branches,  and  all  up  the  main  shoots.  The  plant 
should  be  always  growing  and  developing  its  flowers,  from  spring  to 
autumn,  and  the  fohage  should  completely  hide  all  the  stems,  whether 
the  plan  be  on  front  of  a  house  or  on  any  given  device. 

Concluding   Remarks. 

Having  now  travelled  through  the  chief  of  the  families,  which 
require  separate  notices  of  their  properties,  the  first  three  properties 
numbered  being  required  in  all  of  them,  we  add,  by  way  of  a  finish 
for  all,  except  Moss  Roses,  that 

The  foliage  should  be  bright  green  and  shining,  and,  though  not 
hkely  to  be  found  in  many  varieties,  it  should  be  permanent,  and  con- 
stitute an  evergreen. 

By  this,  we  mainly  estabhsh  a  point  in  favor  of  an  evergreen.  We 
mention  nothing  about  size,  because  size  forms  the  distinction  between 
many  roses  which  have  no  other  difference,  and  has  little  or  nothing 
to  do  with  the  properties  of  the  Rose,  except  uniformity  in  the  same 
variety. 


PROPER   SOIL   FOR   THE   ROSE. 


PROPER  SOIL  FOR  THE  ROSE. 

The  proper  soil  for  the  Eose  is  strong  rich  loam,  and  well  decom- 
posed vegetable  mould,  cow  dung,  or  horse  dung;  but  as  we  arc 
too  often  already  provided  with  the  kind  of  soil  we  are  obliged  to  use 
and  the  gardens  and  situations  for  our  roses  are  generally  ready 
made,  all  we  can  do  is  to  modify  and  supply  the  deficiency,  if  any, 
as  well  as  we  can.  If  the  soil  be  light,  holes  must  be  dug,  and  loam 
and  dung  forked  in  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  as  well  as  the  hole  be 
filled  up  with  the  same  mixture;  for  troublesome  as  this  may  be,  it  is 
the  only  way  to  secure  a  good  growth  and  bloom,  and  it  is  next  to 
useless  to  plant  roses  in  poor  fight  soil  without  this  precaution. 
Kitchen  gardens  well  kept  up,  will  always  grow  the  Rose  well,  and 
unless  the  soil  be  very  poor  and  very  light,  a  good  spadeful  of  rotten 
dung,  mixed  with  the  soil  where  the  Rose  is  planted,  wiU  answer  all 
the  purpose.  Among  the  evils  of  poor  soil  for  the  Rose,  it  is  not  the 
least,  that  it  frequently  makes  the  flower  that  would  otherwise  be 
double  come  single  or  semi-double,  so  as  to  destroy  aU  identity  of  the 
variety  by  its  bloom ;  and  although  many  thousands  of  roses  of  no 
value  have  been  sent  out,  many  others  which  did  not  deserve  it  have 
been  condemned,  because  the  party  who  was  growing  them  knew 
nothing  about  their  cultivation,  and  starved  them  into  a  false  charac- 
ter. As  it  is  difficult,  however,  to  give  the  Rose  too  rich  a  soil,  it 
may  be  as  well,  even  if  you  think  it  good  enough,  to  work  in  a  spade- 
ful of  dung  with  it ;  for  it  will  do  no  harm,  even  if  the  state  of  the 
ground  be  ever  so  good.  We  have  no  doubt  that  the  Rose  Avould 
flourish  in  rotten  turf,  and  when  they  are  to  be  grown  in  pots,  it  is 
practicable  to  give  them  this  invaluable  stuff  to  grow  in ;  but  unless 
it  be  a  recently  turned-up  pasture,  there  is  nothing  approximating  to 
it  out  of  doors,  and  even  this  is  far  less  supplied  with  the  rotted  grass, 
than  when  turfs  are  cut  thin  to  rot  for  use.  As  a  general  principle, 
then,  '  may  be  laid  down  that  the  Rose  requires  rich  soil ;  and  that  if 
you  have  it  not,  you  must  change  the  nature  of  what  yc  i  have,  by 
means  of  dung,  or  loam,  or  both 


MANURES — PLANTING   OF  THE   KOSa  37 


MANURES    FOR    THE    ROSE. 

One  of  the  best  manures  for  the  rose  is  a  mixture  of  one  part  of 
Peruvian  guano,  three  parts  charred  turf  and  earth,  and  six  parts  of 
coAV  dung.  A  thin  dressing  of  this  should  be  pointed  in  with  a  trowel 
every  spring. 

Roses  may  also  be  watered  at  any  period  of  their  growth  with  a 
mixture  of  one  fourth  of  a  pound  of  Peruvian  guano  and  eight  gallons 
of  water,  to  be  appUed  with  a  watering  pot  in  the  evening  or  on  a 
cloudy  day. 


PLANTING    OF  THE    ROSE. 

To  plant  the  rose  properly,  the  root  must  first  be  examined,  and 
every  particle  of  it  that  has  been  bruised  should  be  cut  oflf  with  a 
sharp  knife  just  above  the  bruise;  all  the  torn  and  ragged  ends  should 
be  made  smooth,  and  cut  away  as  far  as  they  are  split  or  damaged. 
If  any  root  has  been  growing  downward,  it  should  be  shortened  up ; 
for  it  is  better  to  discourage  any  from  growing  downright.  This 
preparation  being  made,  and  the  holes  dug  large  enough  to  take  the 
root  in  without  cramping  it,  fork  or  dig  up  the  bottom  of  the  hole  to 
loosen  it,  and,  if  necessary  to  make  any  addition  to  the  present  soil, 
to  mix  it  properly  with  the  soil  taken  out,  and  work  it  some  way 
into  the  soil  at  the  bottom.  Let  one  hold  the  tree  or  plant,  if  it  be  too 
large  to  manage  properly  alone,  and  the  other  throw  in  the  soil  be- 
tween the  roots.  By  moving  the  stem  backward  and  forward,  and 
pulling  upward  a  little,  it  is  easy  to  work  the  soil  well  between  the 
roots,  and  on  this  much  depends.  When  it  is  adjusted,  the  top  of  the 
root  must  be  pretty  close  to  the  top  of  the  ground ;  there  must  be 
none  of  the  stump  or  stem  buried ;  and  when  trodden  down,  the  root 
must  be  fixed  steady  and  solid.  If  you  have  to  manage  the  planting 
by  yourself,  you  must,  as  soon  as  the  hole  is  prepared,  lay  hold  of  the 
stem  just  above  the  root,  and  return  the  soil  with  your  other  hand, 
continuing  to  move  the  head  first  one  way  and  then  the  other,  until 


38  PLANTING   OF   THE   ROSE. 

the  soil  has  worked  well  between  the  roots,  when  it  may  be  trodden 
in  as  mentioned  before. 

Dwarf  plants  there  is  no  difficulty  in  planting,  but  you  must  be 
careful  to  keep  the  crown  of  the  root  near  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
the  treading  in  of  all  fair  and  soHd  being  a  necessary  operation  with  aU 
the  kinds  of  plants.  With  the  standard  sorts  you  should  drive  stakes 
into  the  ground  pretty  firmly,  and  fasten  the  stems  of  the  roses  to 
them,  to  prevent  the  wind  from  removing  them ;  as  when  your  roots 
have  been  once  firmly  trodden  in,  you  cannot  move  a  tree  one  way 
nor  the  other  without  breaking  the  fine  fibres,  and  thus  lessening  the 
capacity  of  the  root  to  carry  strength  to  the  head.  If  you  are  plant- 
ing a  group  of  standard  roses,  you  should  place  the  highest  in  the  cen- 
tre, and  the  lower  ones  nearer  the  outside ;  in  fact,  a  handsome  clump 
of  roses  might  have  six-foot  standards  in  the  middle,  four  feet  six  inches 
in  the  next  row,  three-foot  ones  nearer  the  front,  and  eighteen-inch 
ones  outside ;  these,  if  at  proper  distances,  and  with  picked  sorts,  of 
something  near  the  same  habit  of  growth,  will  form  a  superb  mountain 
of  roses  in  the  proper  season. 

Rows  of  Standard  Roses  may  be  planted  with  advantage  on  each 
side  of  a  coach  road,  in  a  park,  or  on  both  sides  of  a  path  on  a  lawn, 
but  at  proper  distances,  so  that  each  shall  form  a  specific  object  in 
itself,  as  well  as  a  portion  of  a  row  of  rose  trees.  Roses  also  form  very 
beautiful  objects  planted  in  isolated  situations  on  lawns,  and  especially 
when  the  sort  of  rose  is  distinct  from  others,  or  blooms  at  difi'erent 
periods ;  for  whatever  forms  a  portion  should  be  of  a  similar  habit  to 
the  rest  of  the  whole.  Thus,  if  a  particular  walk  in  a  garden  or  shrub- 
bery were  bounded  by  two  rows  of  roses,  they  should  all  flower  at 
once.  If  a  clump  of  roses  is  planted,  they  should  flower  at  one  season. 
A  mixture  of  spring,  summer,  and  autumn  roses  would  be  very  bad  ; 
the  place  never  looks  right ;  therefore  some  pains  must  be  taken  to 
keep  all  those  which  flower  at  the  same  period  of  the  year  together. 
One  portion  of  the  garden  may  then  be  always  garnished  with  ro*es, 
and  it  is  far  better  than  having  them  stragghng  about,  with  here  and 
there  a  flowerless  one  among  those  in  bloom,  or  a  blooming  one  among 
those  not  in  flowef. 

Planting  of  roses  which  are  on  their  own  bottoms,  or  worked  low 
down  for  dwarfs,  or  for  climbers  where  flowering  wood  is  always 
vanted  from  tla  ground,  d'iffers  in  nowise  from  any  other  planting 


POTTING   OF   ROSES.  39 

exoept  as  lO  the  situation,  which  should  be  chosen  not  too  much 
exposed  to  the  wind,  as  in  the  most  sheltered  spot  they  always  have 
enough  to  encounter.  They  must  be  planted  firmly,  and  in  good 
soil:  and  whatever  they  have  to  cHmb  up  should  be  firmly  placed  by 
rights  before  they  are  planted,  but  certainly  before  they  shall  have 
grown  much,  as  the  roots  spread  a  good  deal,  and  if  damaged  by  vio- 
lence after  they  have  begun  to  grow  vigorously,  they  will  receive  a 
check  which  they  may  not  get  over  the  same  season. 


POTTING  OF    ROSES. 

To  the  cultivators  of  the  Rose,  any  improvement  in  pots  is  of  im- 
portance. Those  designed  to  grace  a  haU  or  a  window  of  a  dwelhng, 
may  be  made  in  fine  stone  and  earthenware  of  various  patterns,  and 
should  be  so  constructed  as  to  possess  advantages  over  the  common 
old  red  porous  ones  made  of  clay.  One  reason  why  plants  potted  the 
usual  way  do  not  flourish  well  in  the  house  during  the  winter  season 
is,  the  proper  want  of  leakage,  or  drainage,  and  a  due  circulation  of 
air  about  their  roots,  in  consequence  of  the 
close  connection  between  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  and  the  shelf  or  bench  on  which  it  rests. 

Mr.    M'Intosh,    gardener   of  the   Duke   of 
Buccleuch,  has  obviated  the  above-named  ob- 
jection by  making  pots  with  feet,  as  denoted 
m  the  adjoining  cut.     By  this  means,  the  plants  get  rid  of  their  mois- 
ture, and  freely  receive  air  about  their  roots  through  the  hole  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pot. 

Potting  Deciduous  Roses  for  Forcing. 
The  nearer  you  can  imitate  planting  in  the  open  ground  the  bet- 
ter. The  soil  should  be  the  same  or  richer,  with  dung  chiefly, 
because  yoi  cannot  water  soil  without  washing  away,  in  some  meas- 
ure, whatever  it  is  impregnated  with,  that  is  soluble.  By  a  parity  of 
reasoning,  you  cannot  moisten  with  water  impregnated  with  anythmg, 
without  imparting  the  vu-tue  or  mischief  of  the  solution  to  the  soS! 


40  POTTING   OF   ROSES. 

It  is  the  best  way  to  use  half  of  rotted  turf  and  half  of  rotted  do  ig ; 
if  it  be  not  too  light  to  let  water  pass  freely,  add  a  little  turfy  peat, 
broken  through  a  sieve  that  would  pass  a  hazel  nut.  Trim  the  roots, 
to  get  rid  of  all  bruises ;  acd,  in  the  first  instance,  choose  plants,  the 
roots  of  which  are  within  a  moderate  compass,  for  pot  culture,  and 
are  well  taken  up.  Selec  t  pots  that  will  receive  the  roots  without 
much  cramping ;  carefully  put  the  soil  between  and  among  the  fibres 
and  larger  roots ;  strike  the  pots  on  the  potting  table,  and  poke  the 
soil  down  so  as  to  be  firm. 

If  the  roses  be  dwarf,  follow  the  directions  about  pruning  at  once, 
and  let  them  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  watered,  to  settle  the  earth 
about  them,  and  covered  up.  This  should  be  done  in  the  Southern 
and  Middle  States  from  November  to  February,  when  those  for  forc- 
ing should  be  put  into  the  greenhouse,  gently  increased  in  tempera- 
ture, well  watered,  and  kept  growing  hard ;  any  buds  that  show 
should  be  removed,  and  they  should  be  allowed  to  complete  their 
growth,  and  then  be  plunged  in  the  open  ground,  and  there  the  wood 
be  permitted  to  ripen.  When  the  leaves  have  fallen,  and  the  wood  is 
fairly  ripe,  they  may  be  pruned,  by  removing  all  the  weak  shoats,  and 
shortening  the  strong  ones ;  the  balls  turned  out  to  examine,  and  if 
matted  with  roots,  pots  a  size  larger  be  given.  They  may  then  be 
placed  in  a  cold  frame,  plunged  to  their  rims,  until  the  period  you 
want  to  force  them.  They  will  flower  better  the  second  year  than 
they  could  have  flowered  the  first,  and  if  the  blooms  are  all  picked 
off  again  as  fast  as  they  show,  instead  of  being  allowed  to  perfect 
themselves,  the  growth  will  be  more  free ;  and  by  growing  hard  to 
complete  it  early,  and  leaving  them  out  again  to  ripen,  they  will  allow 
of  being  pruned  into  a  handsome  form,  being  carried  into  the  house 
sooner,  and  will  flower  most  abundantly,  instead  of  having  one  or  two 
sickly  shoots  with  their  miserable  half-starved  blooms.  At  the  end, 
they  will  have  as  many  as  you  please  to  leave  eyes  for,  pruning  them 
the  same  as  you  would  standards  or  bushes  out  of  doors,  and  the 
blooms  will  come  as  rich,  as  handsome,  and  as  well  colored  as  any  iu 
the  open  air.  Eoses  may  then  be  forced  at  almost  any  season,  only 
they  ought  to  undergo  the  same  forcing  a  season  or  two  without 
being  allowed  to  flower,  that  they  undergo  the  season  they  are  to  be 
forced  into  bloom.  And  this  will  answer  season  after  season  when 
they  ar?  once  well  established,  for  they  require  only  the  usual  shifts 


POTTING    ZF    ROSES.  41 

of  plants,  which  have  their  balls  matted  with  root;  but  of  the  forcing, 
more  hereafter. 

Potting  for   Sho-w. 

As  it  is  at  length  the  fashion  to  show  roses  in  pots,  the  only  proper 
plan  of  showing  any  but  single  blooms,  face  upward,  the  plan  of  pot- 
ting cannot  differ  from  those  potted  for  forcing.  Presuming  that  it 
they  are  late  roses  and  require  forcing,  they  will  be  treated  after  the 
plan  above  mentioned,  so  far  as  the  potting  is  concerned,  the  differ- 
ence between  what  the  perfectly  hardy  and  summer  or  autumn  bloom- 
ing roses  wiU  require  after  potting,  as  we  have  directed,  is  to  be  put 
out  in  an  open  situation ;  and  if  standards,  they  should  be  fastened 
to  a  railing,  or  treUis,  as  well  as  being  plunged  in  their  pots,  that  the 
wind  may  not  disturb  them.  Here  they  may  be  protected  various 
ways :  a  mat  thrown  over  the  head  of  a  rose  protected  it,  though  not 
a  very  hardy  one,  against  the  last  winter's  frost.  A  wisp  of  straw 
tied  at  one  end,  and  opened  cap-like  over  each  and  among  the  branches 
of  roses,  protected  them  a  good  deal,  and  probably,  had  they  not  been 
autumn  pruned,  might  have  protected  them  entirely  from  mischief, 
but  as  it  was,  some  of  the  pruned  branches  died  back,  though  the 
unpruned  ones  did  not. 

Potting  tHe  Small,   the  Smooth  Wooden,  and  Chinese  Varieties. 

Here,  from  the  first,  the  soil  should  be  one  third  rotted  dung,  one 
third  peat,  and  one  third  the  loam  of  rotten  turf  In  this  stuff,  the 
most  delicate  will  succeed.  From  the  period  of  their  having  struck 
root,  they  can  hardly  do  wrong  if  potted  in  this  soil,  in  a  proper-sized 
pot,  with  ordinary  drainage.  Small  plants  should  be  placed  in  pots 
no  larger  than  the  roots  require  to  hold  them,  with  a  moderate  share 
of  earth  to  live  in.  This  kind  of  rose  should  be  kept  growing  in  a 
oool  frame  or  greenhouse,  or  pit,  with  not  much  moisture ;  plenty  of 
air  in  dry  mild  days,  and  a  refreshing  shower  when  it  is  warm.  It  is 
safer  to  plunge  them  in  ashes,  if  you  can,  up  to  the  rims  of  their  pots : 
it  keeps  them  moist  longer  than  if  the  pot  is  exposed,  it  mostly  does, 
in  bad  weather ;  and  though  it  perhaps  does  not  kill  them,  it  makes 
them  weakly  for  some  time.  In  this  way.  they  may  grow  from  time 
to  time,  and  be  shifted  from  one  sized  pot  to  another,  requiring  only 


42  FORCING   OF   EARLY   ROSES. 

that  the  buds  should  be  plucked  off  directly  they  show,  sc  .ong  as  th« 
plant  is  wanted  to  grow  fast. 


FORCING  OP  EARLY  ROSES. 

This  art  consists  in  bringing  the  Rose,  by  degrees,  out  of  its  season, 
as  we  have  half  explained  under  the  head  of  "Potting  for  Forcing." 
We  know  that  a  Rose  can  be  potted  in  January,  and  made  to  produce 
flowers  in  May  ;  but  those  who  wish  to  force  should  know  the  best 
way. 

A  Rose,  then,  for  early  forcing,  requires  three  seasons  to  be  per- 
fect. The  first  season,  it  should  be  put  into  a  greenhouse,  and 
from  thence  into  the  stove,  as  early  as  November.  It  is  sure  to  grow, 
no  matter  what  sort  it  is ;  and  let  it  grow  its  best,  but  pluck  off  the 
buds  if  it  have  any,  yet  it  should  not  be  drawn ;  this  can  be  managed 
two  or  tliree  ways,  but  it  requires,  to  prevent  drawing,  Hght  and  air. 
These  will  have  grown  pretty  well  as  large  as  they  can  grow,  by  the 
time  they  may  be  turned  out  and  plunged  in  the  open  air.  The  wood 
will  ripen  well  in  the  summer  time ;  and  in  October,  re-pot  them  into 
a  size  larger  pots  ;  prune  them  by  taking  off  all  the  weak  shoots,  and 
all  the  least  valuable  of  those  in  each  other's  way ;  shorten  the  best 
wood  to  two  or  three  eyes,  thinning  the  inner  branches  all  that  may  be 
necessary  to  give  air,  light  and  freedom  to  the  new  wood.  Take  them 
into  the  greenhouse,  thence,  soon,  into  the  stove.  Let  the  bloom 
buds,  as  they  appear,  be  plucked  off,  and  the  growth  to  be  perfected 
again,  which  will  be  earlier  than  the  previous  season,  as  they  were  set 
growing  ©arlier.  Be  early  in  j'our  attendance  on  them,  when  they 
commence  growing,  so  as  to  remove  useless  buds,  instead  of  allowing 
them  to  form  useless  branches.  When  the  growth  is  completed,  re- 
move them  into  a  cold  frame,  to  be  kept  from  the  spring  frosts,  but 
where  they  can  have  all  the  fine  weather.  In  this  state,  they  may 
remain  till  they  can  safely  be  put  out  in  the  open  air,  plunged  into  the 
ground,  and  properly  fastened  to  protect  them  from  the  wind.  In 
September,  you  may  examine  the  balls  of  earth,  to  see  if  the  roots  have 
room ;  if  c  atted  at  all,  give  them  anotner  change.     Prune  the  plants 


FORCING   LATER   ROSES.  .43* 

well,  as  before  reino^  ing  altogether  such  of  the  present  year's  shoots 
as  are  at  all  weakly,  and  shortening  all  the  best  to  two  or  three  eyes. 
Let  them  now  be  taken  to  the  greenhouse,  or  conservatory,  or  a 
grapery,  or  all  in  turn ;  but  gradually  increase  the  temperature,  till,  by 
the  end  of  October,  they  may  go  into  the  forcing  house,  beginning  at 
the  temperature  the  house  was  that  they  came  from,  say  fifty  to  fifty- 
five,  and  continuing  it  till  they  are  fairly  growing ;  then  increasing  it 
to  sixty,  and  eventually  to  sixty-five ;  rubbing  off,  as  before,  all  useless 
shoots,  and  giving  plenty  of  air,  when  it  can  be  done  without  lowering 
the  temperature.  At  the  least  appearance  of  the  green  fly,  syringe  with 
plain  water;  fumigate  at  night,  for  too  strong  a  smoke  would  all  but 
destroy  the  plants  and  incipient  blooms.  In  this  way,  you  will  be  clear 
of  the  pest  without  damage,  and  your  reward  will  be  a  fine  show  of 
blooms  on  every  rose  tree  ;  strong  growth,  healthy  foliage,  handsome 
plants,  and  all  that  can  be  desired. 

Forcing  Later  Roses. 

The  principle  on  which  the  early  forcing  is  conducted  must  be  carried 
out  in  full,  not  only  in  potting  the  plants  then  pruning,  but  also  in  the 
period  of  removing  them.  If  you  wish  those  a  month  later  to  succeed 
the  first,  put  them  into  the  house  a  month  later,  each  of  the  years. 
If  you  want  others  to  succeed  these  second,  put  them  into  the  house 
a  month  later  still  each  year.  For  nothing  has  been  shown  yet  in  the 
way  of  pot  roses,  better  than  were  shown  several  years  ago,  and  all  of 
them  have  had  a  weakly  drawn  appearance,  and  have  been  anything 
but  creditable  to  the  taste  of  the  gardeners ;  for  they  have  been  staked 
all  over,  and  thin,  flimsy  roses  on  Hmp-lankey  stems,  bound  up  to  a 
thicket  of  unnatjral  wood.  Now,  by  the  plan  we  have  been  recom- 
mending, the  plant  is  longer  growing,  stronger  in  its  wood,  shorter  in 
its  joints,  and  more  abundant  in  branches,  foliage,  and  flowers.  The 
ordinary  mode  of  forcing  contemplates  no  more  than  removing  a  plant 
from  out  of  doors  to  in-doors  in  one  year ;  so  that,  without  having  the 
advantage  of  premature  ripeness  for  two  seasons,  or  even  one,  it  has 
to  perfect  its  flowers  before  their  time,  by  great  excitement,  with  a 
root  hardly  established.  "We  hold  that  a  Rose,  like  a  grape  vine,  can- 
not, after  bearing  in  the  usual  season,  be  changed  all  at  once  to  early 
forcing,  without  great  sacrifice  of  crop,  strength,  or  beauty.      Tho 


!4  THE    FORCINQ    OF    ROSES. 

fact  of  sudden  excitement  being  fatal  to  a  Rose  is  demonstra  ied  easlrf 
enough  by  the  result;  take  a  stong  plant,  well  estabhshed,  from  the 
cold  atmosphere  and  temperature  of  the  ground,  into  a  full-heated 
house,  and  every  bloom  will  be  bUghted  in  its  incipient  state.  If  a 
decided  change  like  this  is  universally  fatal,  which  is  the  fact,  every 
sudden  change,  and  all  approaches  to  it,  are  proportionally  mischiev- 
ous. We  do  not,  however,  mean  to  say  that  roses  cannot  be  forced 
in  a  single  season,  because  thousands  are  so  forced  and  sent  to  market ; 
and  the  usual  result  of  such  management  is,  three  or  four  long-drawn 
branches,  with  a  bud  or  two  at  the  end  of  one,  and  sometimes  of  two, 
with  scarcely  strength  to  open  into  a  flower.  There  are  exceptions 
to  the  choice  kinds  of  roses ;  in  these  remarks,  we  allude  only  to  gar- 
den roses.  The  China  kinds  are  of  a  different  nature,  always  growing 
and  blooming;  winter  and  summer,  if  they  are  kept  in  a  moderate 
temperature,  are  almost  ahke  to  them,  and  those  which  partake  of 
their  habit. 

The  FoTcing  of  Roses — the  Dwarf  China  Kinds. 

This  family  has  scarcely  any  rest  in  pots,  and  under  protection,  it 
may  be  merely  kept  over  the  winter.  There  is  no  place  so  well 
adapted  for  them  as  a  cold  pit,  with  a  good  dry  bottom,  and  shelves 
near  the  glass ;  but  a  stout  shallow  box,  with  a  regular  garden  light 
on  it,  placed  high  and  dry  on  a  paved,  slated,  or  warm,  gravell'^d  bot- 
tom, makes  a  good  shift. 

The  China  Eose,  and  all  the  short-jointed,  smooth-barked  kinds  that 
are  like  them  in  habit,  will  strike,  bud,  graft,  grow,  and  bloom  any 
month  in  the  year.  The  only  thing  necessary,  is  to  have  plants  m  all 
stages,  and  there  will  never  be  any  want  of  flowers.  In  the  green- 
house, they  continue  growing  on,  and  blooming  at  all  times ;  but  they 
cannot  be  kept  too  cool  generally,  and  if  abundance  of  flowers  are 
required  on  a  plant,  it  must  have  a  previous  rest,  and  be  shifted  to  a 
warm  temperature,  and  if  matted  in  the  roots,  a  lagre  pot,  and  the  heat 
gradually  increased  until  it  wiU  bear  that  of  a  moderate  stove.  All 
the  new  growth  will  flower  about  the  same  time,  or  at  least  sufli- 
cient  of  it  to  well  decorate  the  plant.  Cuttings  may  be  st  uck  in  the 
spring,  planted  out  in  beds  six  inches  apart,  to  grow  a  little ;  the  tops 
may  be  pinched  off,  and  the  buds  taken  away  all  the  summer,  to  make 
them  bushy ;  and  they  may  be  potted  up  with  a  compost  of  half  loem, 


PROPAGATION   OF   THE   ROSE.  45 

a  fourth  peat,  aud  a  fourth  cow  dung ;  trimmed  a  little  into  shape, 
and  placed  in  the  shade  a  while.  In  September,  they  may  be  put  into 
their  frames,  covered  up  at  night  against  frost,  and  opened  in  mUd 
weather,  until  the  gi  jund  freezes ;  they  may  then  be  removed,  a  few 
at  a  time,  into  an  increased  temperature,  and  about  a  month  apart. 
They  will  be  found  to  bloom  well,  and  succeed  each  other  admirably, 
aU  through  the  winter  and  spring,  before  those  out  of  doors  can  even 
fairly  start  into  leaf;  the  only  care  required  being  to  syringe  them 
against  attack  of  insects,  and  if  that  does  not  keep  them  under,  fumi- 
gate them ;  and  see  that  they  never  suffer  from  want  of  water.  These, 
however,  like  the  Summer  Roses,  will  force  better  the  second  year 
than  the  first,  by  shifting  them  into  pots  a  size  larger,  trimming  the 
plants  into  a  proper  shape,  taking  away  the  weak  shoots,  letting  them 
rest,  and  giving  but  little  water  towards  the  end  of  the  summer,  ex- 
cept to  keep  them  from  actually  flagging ;  putting  them  in  their  frames 
and  removing  them  into  heat,  as  before,  a  few  at  a  time,  and  a  month 
apart. 


PROPAGATION  OF  THE  ROSE. 

The  Eose  is  propagated  by  seeds,  by  cuttings,  by  layers,  by  suckers, 
and  by  budding  or  grafting. 

Propagation  frora  Seed. 

This  mode  is  adopted  for  the  purpose  of  raising  new  varieties  by 
crossing  different  kinds,  and  is  almost  exclusively  practised  by  profes- 
sional florists ;  it  is  also  employed  for  obtaining  Sweet  Briers  and 
stocks.  When  the  seed  is  gathered  in  the  autunm,  it  is  either  rub- 
bed or  washed  out  of  the  "  hips''  and  kept  in  dry  sand ;  or  the  hips 
are  laid  in  a  cool  room,  and  turned  over  from  time  to  time,  till  the 
shell  is  rotted;  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  succeeding  spring,  after  which 
it  will  come  up  the  same  year. 

Sowing  of  the  Seed.— Among  the  numerous  modes  of  sowing  the 
seed  of  the  Rose,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  very  plan  which  has 
been  adopted  for  fifty  perennials,  or  perhaps  more,  answered  as  com- 


46  PROPAGATION   OF   THE   ROSE. 

pletely  as  any.  For  i;  .stance,  Polyanthus  seed  and  Rose  seed  were 
sown  in  the  same  kind  of  soil,  loam  and  dung,  in  the  same  sort  of 
pan,  placed  in  the  same  garden  light,  watered  at  the  same  time ;  and, 
though  coming  up  at  a  different  period,  submitted  to  the  same  treat- 
ment in  other  respects;  shaded  from  the  same  noon- day  sun,  and, 
though  at  a  different  time,  pricked  out  into  pots,  four  or  five  in  a  pot, 
round  the  edge ;  kept  cool,  and  growing  right  on ;  and  when  the 
Polyanthuses  were  placed  in  their  single  pots,  the  Roses  were  also 
potted  in  theirs.  They  were  kept  dry  rather  than  otherwise  all  the 
ensuing  winter,  in  a  cold  frame,  with  their  neighbors,  well  protected 
against  frost ;  and  that  was  all. 

In  the  spring,  when  they  began  to  grow,  they  were  bedded  out  in 
rows,  in  a  shady  border,  six  inches  apart,  and  the  rows  a  foot  apart, 
and  here  they  remained  another  season,  making  considerable  growth  ; 
some  were  of  the  China  kind,  and  those  were  potted  up  and  kept 
growing ;  the  others  were  hooped  over  with  low  hoops,  which  kept 
the  covering  close  down  on  them  in  bad  weather,  and  there  were 
several  that  died  during  the  winter.  In  the  spring  they  were  pruned 
carefully,  so  far  as  to  remove  all  but  the  two  or  three  strongest  shoots, 
and  those  were  cut  about  half  way  back.  Several  bloomed  weakly, 
but  most  of  them  made  good  growth.  No  part  of  the  success,  how- 
ever, went  beyond  the  growth;  not  half  a  dozen  came  at  all  double, 
and  though  there  were  some  bright  colors,  there  were  none  in  our 
estimation  worth  saving.  The  China  ones  were  rather  better,  but  not 
good  enough ;  so  that,  after  giving  a  few  of  the  best  another  year's 
chance,  every  vestige  was  given  or  thrown  away.  The  experiments 
followed  up  season  after  season  led  to  the  following  confirmed  prac- 
tice : — The  berries  were  dried  all  the  winter ;  they  were  then  bruised 
in  a  bag,  and  the  seeds  carefully  picked  out ;  a  slight  hot  bed  was 
made  up  as  if  for  annuals ;  the  soil  put  six  inches  deep  all  over,  half- 
rotted  turf  and  half  cow  dung,  raked  smooth,  and  the  seed  sown  evenly 
and  thinly  all  over — occasionally  moistened ;  the  seeds  came  up  well, 
and  were  shaded  ;  had  plenty  of  air  given,  and  the  usual  attendance 
to  see  that  they  w«  re  not  dry,  but  not  much  watered.  Here,  as  soon 
as  they  were  large  enough,  they  were  thinned  a  little,  by  carefully 
removing  a  few  wherever  they  were  too  thick,  which  removed  ones 
were  as  carefully  potted  off  and  kept  in  the  greenhouse.  They  had 
no  other  care  during  the  season  than  protecting  them  from  too  muci 


PROPAGATIOX    OF    THE    KOSE.  47 

p\!i-. ;  bul  Ihey  were  allowed  to  be  quite  open  on  mild  cloudj  days, 
and  had  warm  showers  of  rain  at  all  opportunities.  Here  it  wa3 
found  necessary  to  fumigate  them  several  times  to  get  rid  of  the 
aphides,  which  partially  appeared  five  or  six  times  during  the  season, 
but  were  speedily  cleared  away.  The  lights  were  taken  off  towards 
autumn,  and  the  young  plants  looked  as  well  as  could  be  wished. 
At  the  period  when  frosts  were  expected,  they  were  removed  care- 
fully with  all  their  roots,  into  a  bed  made  of  the  same  compost,  and  a 
foot  deep ;  planted  a  foot  apart  every  way,  and  the  bed  being  four  feet 
wide,  took  four  across  it,  the  outer  ones  being  six  inches  from  the 
edge  of  the  bed.  The  same  precaution  was  taken  with  mats  and 
hoops  to  keep  off  heavy  falls  of  snow  or  hard  frosts,  and  they  were 
allowed  to  push  as  much  as  they  would,  without  pruning,  all  the  next 
season,  no  other  pains  being  taken  than  to  throw  the  mat  over  when 
the  sun  was  distressingly  hot,  and  to  water  them  freely  on  dry  parch- 
ling  weather,  every  night.  At  the  autumn,  they  were  replanted,  all 
the  weak  shoots  being  cut  out,  but  the  strong  ones  not  shortened  till 
spring.  Though  there  was  a  manifest  improvement  in  the  flowers 
each  season,  it  was  four  or  five  before  anything  like  the  quality  of 
some  present  roses  was  approached. 

This  practice  differs,  in  some  respects,  from  that  of  some  other 
nurserymen;  we  have  seen  healthy  seedlings,  since  all  these  pains 
were  taken,  where  the  seeds  were  sown  out  of  doors  in  a  common 
bed,  raked  in  like  so  many  onions ;  came  up  like  so  many  weeds ; 
grev/  well  and  stood  the  weather  without  even  a  shelter  from  hard 
frosts.  Some  may  have  been  kiUed  and  not  missed,  but  they  did  as 
well,  to  all  appearance,  as  those  more  tenderly  nursed. 

Hastening  the  Flowering    of  Seedlings. 

When  the  seedlings  come  up  in  May  or  June,  keep  them  well  moist- 
ened, but  not  too  wet,  until  you  can  get  hold  of  them  well  to  pot  off. 
.Put  one  each  into  small  pots,  and  let  them,  as  soon  as  they  are  estab- 
lished, be  placed  in  the  shade  out  of  doors ;  but  the  greatest  care  must 
be  taken  to  prevent  the  attack  of  the  fly,  or  vermin  of  any  kind. 
They  must  be  looked  at  almost  daily,  and  upon  the  least  appearance 
of  any  hisects,  you  must  remove  the  plants  under  cover,  where  you 
can  fumigate  and  syringe  them  regularly.     It  is  still  better,  if  you  have 


48  PROPAGATION    OF    THE    ROSE. 

frame  room,  to  put  them  in  when  potted,  because  it  gives  an  oppor- 
tunity of  shading,  of  keeping  off  too  much  wet,  protecting  them 
against  wind,  and  of  fumigating  without  the  least  difficulty,  when 
necessary.     They  should,  however,  seldom  have  the  glasses  on. 

After  the  seedlings  have  been  five  or  six  weeks  in  these  pots,  they 
may  be  bedded  out,  in  rich  beds  of  loam  and  dung,  without  disturbing 
the  balls  ;  they  should  be  about  a  foot  apart,  in  beds  of  four  feet  wide; 
by  planting  within  six  inches  of  the  side  of  the  bed,  four  rows  will  go 
in,  and  they  wDI  here  grow  rapidly.  Before  the  close  of  the  budding 
season,  many  will  have  grown  quite  large  enough  to  bud  from ;  and 
the  most  promising  may  be  cut  back,  and  three  or  four  buds  put  on 
remaikably  strong  stocks.  Select  a  strong  branch  for  budding  on, 
and  at  first,  you  must  let  some  portion  of  the  branch  beyond  the  bud 
be  left  on  to  grow ;  a  very  small  shoot  beyond  the  bud  will  do  to 
insure  the  growth.  These  buds  will  strike  off  vigorously  the  next 
season,  and  make  considerable  growth ;  but  before  the  bud  has  shot 
far,  cut  the  stock  away  everywhere  but  the  portions  budded  on.  The 
growth  they  will  make  this  summer  on  strong  stocks  will  insure  their 
Moom  the  next  season ;  and,  as  the  real  object  is  to  see  if  the  Rose  be 
good  for  anything,  they  should  not  be  pruned,  except  so  far  as  to  cut 
away  weak  branches  altogether ;  by  leaving  the  full  length  of  the 
strong  shoots,  the  blooms  will  be  hastened. 

In  the  mean  time,  those  in  the  bed  may  be  treated  as  directed ;  and 
though  not  generally  the  case  under  the  present  management,  they 
have  bloomed  these  years  on  their  own  bottoms,  though  there  were 
a  great  number  much  later  than  the  third  year,  and  some  even  went 
to  the  fifth.  This  mode  of  budding  the  promising  seedlings  hastens 
the  certainty  of  bloom  very  much,  as  it  is  very  rare  indeed  that  they 
niiso  coming  the  third  year.  If  they  are  worth  propagating,  the 
budding  greatly  increases  the  quantity  of  wood  to  work  from.  If,  on 
the  contrary,  they  turn  out  good  for  nothing,  the  instant  you  discov'^r 
Lt,  cut  away  all  the  wood,  and  the  stocks  will,  in  all  probability,  grow 
in  time  for  budding  other  sorts  upon  the  same  season  you  discover 
the  deficiency  of  those  already  worked.  In  this  way,  without  incur- 
ring much  trouble,  you  may  satisfy  yourself  as  to  the  quality  of  seed- 
lings for  a  certainty  the  third  year ;  therefore,  you  should  provide 
yourself  with  stocks  for  that  purpose,  whenever  you  sow  seedlings. 
For  China  sorts,  you  should  have  some  stocks  of  the  common  Cluna, 


PROPAGATION    OF    THE    ROSE.  49 

or  Boursault,  or  the  Dog  Rose,  in  good-sized  pots,  and  well  estab- 
lished; for  they  may  be  budded  later,  protected  better,  and  indeed 
some  of  the  seedUngs  which  partake  much  of  the  China  are  tender, 
and  really  require  protection  from  the  frost. 

Retarding  the    Flovrering   of  fhe    Rose. 

The  most  simple  method  of  retarding  the  flowei'ing  of  the  Provence 
and  Moss  Roses,  so  as  to  have  the  plants  in  bloom  late  in  autumn,  is 
to  cut  oif  the  tops  of  the  shoots  produced  in  the  spring,  just  before 
they  begin  to  show  their  flower  buds  ;  the  effect  of  this  treatment  will 
be  to  cause  the  plants  to  throAV  out  fresh  shoots,  which  will  bloom 
later,  according  to  the  period  in  which  the  operation  is  performed- 

It  may  also  be  done  by  transplanting  the  bushes  early  in  the  spring, 
as  soon  as  they  have  formed  their  buds,  which  should  be  cut  off.  The 
roots  must  not  be  allowed  to  dry  before  they  are  put  into  the  earth 
again;  and  they  will  require  artificial  watering  if  the  season  should  be 
dry.  to  make  them  flower  late  in  the  fall. 

Prop-igntior;  by  Cuttings. 

When  the  earliest  shoots  of  the  China  Rose  are  about  four  inches 
long,  cut  them  off  close  to  the  old  wood,  plant  them  in  pots  half  filled 
with  soil,  and  plunge  them  in  a  warm  situation,  placing  over  the  pot 
a  flat  piece  of  glass,  to  exclude  the  cold  air ;  the  glass  should  be  wiped 
occasionally.    Thus  treated,  they  will  make  blooming  plants  by  autumn. 

Indian  Roses,  and  climbing  kinds,  are  also  easily  propagated  by 
cuttings  and  slips,  protecting  them  as  above,  or  by  a  hand  glass,  when 
the  climate  is  cold. 

Propagation   by  Suckers 

Many  roses,  indeed  most  of  them,  growing  on  their  own  roots, 
instead  of  by  grafting  on  a  stock,  constantly  spread  at  the  roots,  and 
branches  force  their  way  up,  much  to  the  annoyance,  sometimes,  of 
the  men  in  charge  of  the  rosary.  In  the  spring  months,  their  suckers 
should  be  looked  for,  and  when  found,  they  should  be  taken  off  at 
once,  far  enough  under  ground  to  get  a  piece  of  root  with  them. 
The«e  should  be  replanted  instantly  on  the  removal ;  but  if  a  piece  be 

3 


50  PROPAGATION    OF    THE    ROSE. 

planted  out,  and  devoted  to  propagation,  the  proper  method  ia  to  dig 
up  the  plants  in  autumn,  tracing  the  roots  as  far  as  they  go,  and  tak- 
ing the  portions  whia  i  have  been  growing  above  ground  out  at  the 
same  time.  Some  kinds  will  have  half  a  dozen,  or  more,  perfect  plants, 
which  have  been  formed  by  the  spreading  at  the  root,  and  the  end 
growing  up  through  the  surface.  These  suckers  should  be  trimmec' 
and  planted  carefully,  at  such  distance  as  the  sizes  warrant ;  generally 
in  rows  a  yard  apart,  and  the  plants  eighteen  inches  from  each  other. 
Here  they  have  to  be  cut  down  in  spring  to  within  three  or  four  eyes 
of  the  ground. 

Propagation  "by  Layers. 

The  Rose  will  propagate  from  layers.  To  do  this,  some  merely  select 
a  lower  branch,  and,  bending  the  wood  sharp  between  two  joints,  peg 
that  down  under  ground  in  autumn ;  it  will  root  well  by  the  following 
fall.  Others  cut  a  notch  in  the  wood,  on  the  upper  side,  which  makes 
the  bend  sharper;  but  there  is  more  danger  of  breaking  it.  Another 
method  is,  to  run  a  knife  through  the  wood,  so  as  to  split  it,  and  then 
give  the  wood  a  little  twist ;  but  most  of  the  sorts  will  root  if  only 
pegged  under  the  surface.  That,  however,  is  rarely  resorted  to ;  and 
when  it  is  considered  what  facilities  for  propagation  are  offered  other- 
wise, it  is  no  wonder.  The  laying  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the 
wood  has  ripened,  and  the  pegs  to  be  used  should  be  like  a  miniature 
hooked  walking  stick,  which  it  is  easy  to  form  out  of  any  branch  of 
wood.  This  hook  is  thrust  into  the  ground  firmly,  to  hold  fast  the 
whole  winter  and  summer  season. 

In  dry  weather,  the  layers  should  be  watered,  as  the  trees  them- 
feelves,  or  bushes,  frequently  prevent  the  rain  from  coming  near  the 
surface,  where  the  branch  is  pegged  down,  and  they  would  in  such 
cases  have  no  encouragement  to  root.  In  the  autumn  of  the  next  year, 
examine  them  all  before  they  are  cut  off  from  the  parent  root,  and  if 
rooted,  of  which  there  will  be  little  doubt,  cut  the  new  plant  away, 
with  all  the  new  root;  and  in  planting  it  out  in  another  place,  shorten 
the  portion  above  ground  to  half  its  length;  and  at  prun'.ng  time,  m 
the  spring,  cut  it  down  within  three  or  four  eyes  of  the  ground,  in  order 
that  it  may  form  a  bush.  • 


PROPAaATION    OF    1U£    ROSE.  51 

Layers  of  seme  roses  strike  almost  immecliatel;y  ;  a:d  from  this 
facility,  it  is  a  common  practice  to  lay  them  all  over  a  bed  by  pegging 
down  the  branches  on  the  surface,  at  small  distances,  and  thus  cover 
a  whole  space,  which  have  rooted  at  almost  every  joint.  The  flowers, 
in  such  cases,  are  very  strong ;  but  a  bush  thus  treated,  and  every 
branch  layered,  would  cut  up  into  an  immense  number  of  plants. 

Propagation  ty  Budding    on    Briers. 

We  marry 
A  gentle  scion  on  the  wildest  stock, 
And  make  conceive  a  bark  of  baser  kind 
By  bud  of  nobler  race  ;  this  is  art 
"Which  does  mend  nature — change  it  rotting  ;  but 
The  art  iiself  is  nature.  Shakspsabr 

There  is  no  process  in  the  art  of  Practical  Gardening  more  interest- 
ing, nor  the  fruit?  of  which  are  more  gratifying  to  an  amateur,  than 
budding.  The  theory  is  this:  At  the  base  of  the  leaf  is  a  small  bud, 
which,  after  the  leaf  falls  away  from  it,  becomes  prominent,  and  event- 
ually, if  left  on  the  tree,  makes  a  branch.  By  taking  a  leaf  off  with 
part  of  the  bark,  this  incipient  bud  comes  with  it,  and  by  inserting 
this  bark  under  the  bark  of  another  rose  tree,  say  one  of  these  com- 
mon briers,  it  unites  as  if  it  were  originally  a  part  of  the  brier  itself; 
but  the  bud  retains  all  the  character  of  the  one  it  came  from,  and  is 
not  changed  in  the  smallest  degree  by  the  transfer  from  its  own  to 
another  stock.  This  is  the  fact  upon  which  all  propagation  by  bud- 
ding is  founded ;  and,  therefore,  we  1  ive  two  leading  points  to  consider 
in  setting  about  this  operation. 

First,  we  must  have  the  green  bark  of  the  stock,  into  which  the 
buds  are  to  be  inserted,  rise  easily,  which  it  does  all  the  while  the 
branch  is  green  and  growing;  and,  secondly,  we  must  wait  until  the 
bud,  small  and  almost  imperceptible  as  it  is  at  the  base  of  the  leaf  is 
old  enough  to  be  removed  with  safety.  In  a  general  vvay,  the  buds 
of  Summer  Ro=-e5  are  not  ready  till  nearly  mid-summer,  and  the  bark 
will  not  easily  rise  from  the  wood  of  the  stock  much  after  that.  The 
budding  season  may,  however,  be  called  from  the  middle  of  June  to 
the  middle  of  August,  and  not  very  much  longer.  What  is  meant  by 
the  bark  easily  rising  is,  easily  leaving  the  wood,  so  that  it  would  be 
easy  to  peel  a  branch  by  stripping  the  bark  oS. 


62  PROPAGATION    OF    THE    P.OSE. 

The  first  thing,  then,  to  look  to,  is  to  obtain  h  -anches  of  the  rose 
tree  from  which  we  want  to  produce  other  pla.its.  If  you  obtain 
these  branches  before  you  are  ready  to  use  them,  plant  the  thick  end 
in  the  ground,  and  do  not  let  the  sun  come  near  them,  as  it  would  soon 
destroy  them ;  but  the}'  ought  not  to  be  an  hour  longer  than  you  can 
help  unused.  Get  some  bass  matting  for  ties,  or  very  coarse  worsted, 
which  some  prefer,  because  it  gives  way  better  if  the  bud  swells,  and 
will  stand  the  weather  longer.  With  a  very  sharp  knife,  called  a 
"  budding  knife,"  if  you  have  one,  and,  if  not,  any  other,  and  a  thin  piece 
of  hard  wood  or  ivory,  like  a  diminutive  paper  knife,  you  may  go  to 
work,  •  The  knife  is  to  slit  the  bark  down  to  the  wood  wherever  you 
mean  to  put  in  the  bud,  and  the  piece  of  hard  wood  or  ivory,  with  a 
sort  of  blunt  edge  like  a  paper  knife,  is  to  divide  the  bark  from  the 
wood  by  running  it  along  under  the  bark,  on  each  side  of  the  slit. 

SlocJcsfor  Budding  and  Grafting, — The  great  call  for  these  articles 
has  made  it  somewhat  difficult  to  procure  them  anywhere  but  at  the 
nurseries ;  and  when  you  consider  you  can  pick  and  choose  at  some 
price  or  other,  the  nurseries  are  the  best  place  for  an  amateur  to  pur- 
chase. In  some  parts  of  the  country,  the  briers  are  plentiful,  but  they 
are  mostly  in  hedge  rows,  and  it  is  somewhat  perilous  work  to  grub 
fhem  up  without  permission ;  nevertheless,  many  men  get  their  living 
by  collecting  these  for  the  nursery  grounds.  The  stocks  should  be 
procured  at  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  and  be  straight,  strong,  well  rooted  and 
compact.  These  should  be  placed  in  rows,  eighteen  int.hes  apart  from 
each  other,  and  three-foot  or  three-foot-six-inch  vacancies  between 
the  rows ;  they  should  be  staked,  or,  Avhich  is  better,  stakes  should 
be  put  at  equal  distances,  and  a  rail  along  them,  to  which  rail  all  the 
stocks  should  be  fastened  by  strong  ties,  the  whole  being  well  trodden 
in  after  the  manner  that  new  roses  are  planted. 

The  preparation  of  the  roots  should  be  in  all  resj  ects  the  same,  and 
the  stocks  are  generally  shortened  before  you  get  them  to  the  height 
their  growth  best  adapts  them  for.  Here  they  remain  till  they  begin 
to  push  in  spring,  when  all  the  lower  buds  must  be  rubbed  oflF,  leav- 
ing the  three  or  four  that  are  highest  up  the  stock  to  see  which  will 
grow  best.  It  will  be  found  that  some  of  these  stocks  have  died 
down  to  a  considerable  distance ;  but  as  they  are  not  of  the  slightest 
importance  above  the  top  growing  bud,  you  may,  with  a  strong  knife, 
cut  right  down  to  the  bud,  or  leave  it  till  aftt-    the  summer  growth  of 


PROPAGATION    OF    THE    ROSE. 


53 


the  buds  has  considerably  advanced.  If  you  have  one  good  branch, 
it  will  do,  but  two  on  opposite  sides  are  bettei-,  because  you  can  work 
both,  and  be  safe  if  one  fails.  Several  times,  you  must  go  over  these 
stocks,  to  rub  ofl'  the  fresh  buds  that  will  be  springing  out  on  different 
parts  of  them,  where  they  are  not  wanted ;  and  two  good  buds  near 
the  top  are  all  you  need  save.  You  have  to  remember  that  all  the 
strength  of  the  plant  will  go  into  these  two  branches,  if  the  others  are 
taken  i  way  ;  but  that  every  leaf  that  is  allowed  to  grow,  besides  those 
wanted,  takes  greatly  from  their  strength,  on  Avhich  strength  the  value 
of  the  plant  entirely  depends. 

If  the  top  shoots  or  buds  happen  to  be  weak  in  the  first  instance, 
compared  with  some  lower  down  the  stock,  it  is  better  to  rub  off  the 
op,  and  lose  a  little  height  of  the  stoctc,  than  trust  to  dwindling 
!.  ranches,  so  that,  in  this  case,  your  two  branches  to  save  might  be 
half  way  down  the  stem ;  and  it  is  better,  in  such  case,  to  down  at 
once  to  it,  that  the  top  may  be  no  more  trouble,  and  may  not  mislead 
you,  in  going  over  them  a  second  time,  to  cut  or  pull  out  your  best 
branches  ;  for  the  top,  so  long  as  you  leave  it  on,  would  be  throwing 
out  its  green  shoots;  and  being  the  same  height  as  the  general  run  of 
them,  nothing  is  more  likely.  All  that  is  to  be  done,  besides  keepino- 
the  stocks  from  throwing  out  other  branches,  is  to  cut  away  from  the 
roots  any  suckers  that  may  come  up,  and  which  distress  the  stock 
nearly  as  much  as  the  dwarf  branches.  The  ground,  of  course  is  to 
be  kept  clear  of  weeds  until  mid-summer,  which  is  the  season  for  bud- 
ding, and  which  is  the  next  subject  for  consideration. 


Being  thus  provided,  go  to  your  stocks  with  your  branches  of  the 
trees  you  want  to  propagate,  in  your  apron ;  for  you  ought  to  have 
front  pockets,  and  the  V-ass  matting  should  be   tucked  in  the  apron 


54 


PROPAGATION    OF    THE    ROSR 


string ;  take  hold  of  the  stock  firmly,  and  shorten  both  the  branches 
to  a  toot,  or  even  less ;  then  with  your  knife,  cut  a  slit  in  the  bark, 
within  half  an  inch  of  the  base  of  the  branch  upward,  and  on  the  upper 
side,  an  inch  ami  a  half  long ;  about  the  middle  of  this  slit,  make  a 
small  cut  across;  then  with  your  ivory,  or  thin  wood — or  more 
propel  ly,  if  you  have  it,  with  the  handle  of  your  budding  knife — raise 
up  the  bark  on  both  sides ;  then  take  the   branch  of  your  rose  tree 


from  which  70U  take  your  buds,  and  with  your  sharp  knife,  shave  out 
of  the  brani.  h  a  thin  piece  of  the  wood,  beginning  half  an  inch  below 
a  leaf,  and  taking  the  knife  along  to  come  out  half  an  inch  above  the 
leaf.  This  small  bit  has  to  be  inserted  under  the  bai'k  on  both  sides, 
brinf^ing  the  leaf,  which  is  where  the  bud  is,  to  the  exact  place  where 
the  cross  cut  is  ;  when  it  is  neatly  inserted,  take  your  piece  of  matting 


and  place  the  middle  of  it  across  the  sUt  just  uuaer  the  leaf;  pass  it, 
under,  and  cross  it  backward  and  forward  along  the  branch  till  tho 
bark  is  completely  tied  down  close,  and  only  the  leaf  and  bud  exposed. 


PROPAGATION'    OF    TIIK    UO-K.  66 

A^  the  weatlu-r  at  this  time  is  often  very  hot,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  tie 
a  bunch  of  loose  moss  over  all,  and  Avater  the  moss  occasionally  the 
first  few  days,  because  it  keeps  off  the  burning  sun,  even  if  dry,  and 
greatly  preserves  the  nevi'ly-disturbed  bark.  It  will  be  easily  seen 
that  the  quicker  this  operation  is  performed  the  better;  because,  if  the 
sap  of  the  bud,  or  that  of  the  raised  bark,  has  time  to  dry,  the  union 
of  the  one  with  the  other  cannot  be  completed  with  any  degree  of  cer- 
tainty. 

The  bark  being  damped  immediately  by  the  application  of  wet  moss 
will  hardly  undo  any  mischief  already  done ;  so  that  a  sharp  knife,  a 
clean  cut,  and  rapid  action  are  necessary,  and  can  hardly  fail.  If  the 
bud  is  cut  out  of  the  branch  too  thick,  and  too  much  wood  is  taken 
out  with  the  bark  and  bud,  the  wood  ought  to  be  cut  thinner,  or  pulled 
out  from  the  bark  of  the  bud  altogether ;  but  there  is  danger  in  taking 
out  the  wood;  for  it  will  occasionally  bring  out  the  germ  of  the  bud 
with  it.  The  effect  of  this  would  be,  that  nothing  would  indicate 
outside  what  was  wrong,  but  the  bud  would  not  grow.  It  would 
look  as  green,  as  fresh,  and  as  completely  united,  as  if  tho  germ  were 
there.  On  this  account,  you  may  omit  the  practice  of  taking  the  little 
bit  of  wood  from  the  inside  of  the  bud,  and  with  the  greatest  success. 
This  operation  should  be  carried  through  all  the  stocks,  if  you 
have  plenty  of  buds  on  each  of  the  branches ;  because  two  buds  will 
ma'cc  a  head  sooner  than  one,  and  if  you  choose  to  do  so,  you  may 
]-iut  two  different  sorts  on  the  same  stock.  In  this  case,  you  must  be 
particular  about  having  two  of  about  the  same  habit;  for  a  fast-growing 
one  would  soon  deprive  a  slow-growing  one  of  all  the  necessary  nour- 
ishment; and,  besides  this,  it  would  grow  incongruously,  and  would  not 
be  controllable.  On  the  other  hand,  if  you  have  two  of  similar  habit, 
and  opposite  colors,  it  may  be  made  a  very  pretty  object.  But  the 
great  value  of  this  delicate,  though  simple  operation,  is  to  make  an 
old  China,  or  other  strong-growing  Rose,  long  established,  change  its 
face  altogether.  Many  kinds  of  roses  may  be  budded  on  such  a  tree, 
by  selecting  all  the  strong-growing  branches  of  the  present  year's 
growth,  putting  a  different  bud  in  eacli,  and  cutting  all  the  other  parts 
of  the  tree  away,  leaving  the  novelties  alone  to  grow;  or  the  buds 
may  be  all  of  the  same  sort,  so  it  be  some  choice  kind ;  but  different 
colored  roses  have  the  best  effect. 

Spring  Budding.— But  one  of  the  most  sure  and  expeditious  methods 


56 


PROPAGji ."  K)N    OF  THE    RC<?K. 


is  that"  called  "spring  budding,"  by  which  the  bark  of  the  stock,  as 
early  in  the  season  as  it  will  separate  from  the  wood,  is  cut  like  the 
letter  T  inverted,  (thus,  x, )  as  shown  by  a,  in  the  adjoining  figure ; 


wnereas,  in  "summer  budding,"  it  forms  a  T  in  its  erect  position. 
The  horizontal  edges  of  this  cut  in  the  stock,  and  of  the  "  shield  bark" 
containing  the  bud,  should  be  brought  into  the  most  perfect  contact, 
as  denoted  by  b;  because  the  union  of  the  bark  in  spring  takes 
place  by  means  of  the  ascent  of  the  sap ;  whereas,  in  summer  budding, 
it  is  supposed  to  be  caused  by  its  descent.  The  parts  should  then 
immediately  be  bound  with  water-proof  bass,  (c,)  without  applying 
either  grafting  clay  or  grafting  wax.  The  buds  may  be  inserted  either 
in  a  healthful  branch,  or  in  a  stock  near  the  ground.  In  general,  two 
bads  are  sufficient  for  one  stock,  and  these  should  be  of  the  same 
variety ;  as  two  sorts  seldom  grow  with  equal  vigor.  The  bass 
ligature,  which  confines  the  bud,  may  be  removed,  if  the  season  be 
moist,  in  a  month  after  budding;  but  if  it  be  hot  and  dry,  not  for  six 
weeks  at  least.  As  soon  as  the  inserted  buds  show  signs  of  vegetation, 
the  stock  or  branch  containing  them  should  be  pruned  down,  so  as  to 
leave  one  or  two  buds  or  shoots  above.  If  the  stock  is  allowed  to 
liave  a  leading  shoot  above  the  inserted  buds,  and  this  shoot  is  not 
shortene<l,  the  buds  inserted  probably  will  not  show  many  signs  of 
vcg-etat;  n  for  several  weeks. 


PROPAGATION   BY    GRAFTINa. 


57 


PROPAGATION  BY   GRAFTING. 

This  is  by  means  so  simple  an  operation,  though  not  a  very  difficult 
matter;  nev(^rthe]ess,  the  pith  in  the  centre  of  the  Avood  is  against  it, 
as  well  as  tho  discrepancy  in  general  between  the  stock  and  the  scion. 
The  act  of  grafting  is  adopted  for  the  same  purpose  as  that  of  budding 
— to  propagate  particular  varieties.  It  is  not  so  safe  nor  so  certain  a 
mode  as  budding,  but  in  the  spring,  there  is  no  other  means ;  and  as  in 
the  purchase  of  new  roses,  there  is  generally  a  good  deal  of  ripe  wood 
that  must  be  cut  off,  those  who  have  stocks  that  are  fit  for  grafting 
frequently  adopt  it.  There  are  various  modes  of  performing  this 
operation ;  one  or  two  ways  are  applicable  to  the  old  wood  of  the 
stock ;  other  modes  are  adapted  to  the  last  year's  branches.  In  the 
one  case,  a  cleft  is  made  in  the  stump  of  the  stock,  and  the  wood 
belonging  to  the  new  Rose  to  be  inserted  is  cut  in  an  angular  form  to 
fit  it.     It  is  then  bound  in  its  place  by  bass  matting,  or  some  other  tie, 


00 


and  the  joins  covered  with  grafting  clay,  or,  which  is  more  generally 
used  for  roses,  grafting  wax ;  a  composition  formed  of  beeswax  and 
resin,  in  equal  parts,  and  a  little  tallow,  to  render  it  easily  fusible 
at  a  low  heat,  because  the  real  object  of  this  wai  is  to  melt  at  a 
heat  which  will  not  hurt  the  trees,  but  that  will,  on  cooling,  be  suf- 
ficiently hard  to  keep  in  its  place,  and  bear  even  the  heat  of  the  sun 
without  running  away. 

There  are  various  mides  of  grafting  the  smaller  branches  of  the 
stock ;  that  is  to  say,  the  branches  of  the  last  year's  growth.  One 
mode  is,  to  .  _t  the  branch  down  to  two  inches  in  length,  and  then  cut 

3" 


38  PROPAGATION   BY   GRAFTING. 

this  short  piece  down  the  middle,  cutting  out  the  inside  of  tLe  wood 
sloping  outward,  so  as  to  receive  a  wedge-shaped  graft,  which  should 
he  about  the  same  size,  if  possible ;  cut  this  into  the  shape  of  a  wedge, 
and  insert  it  in  the  stock,  making  as  complete  a  fit  as  possible,  and  be 
careful  that  the  bark  of  both  scion  and  stock  exactly  join  on  one 
side,  whether  it  reach  the  other  side  or  not;  for,  unless  the  barks 
meet  on  o  le  side,  it  will  be  impossible  to  unite.  It  will  frequently 
happen  that  the  scion  is  smaller  than  the  stock;  the  one  must  be  used 
as  you  have  got  it,  the  other  you  must  get  as  good  as  you  can ;  and 
when  you  have  it,  make  the  best  of  it.  Others,  in  grafting,  cut  the 
branch  of  the  stock  into  a  wedge,  and  the  scion  is  cut  to  receive  it. 
The  effect  is  the  same  in  the  end,  if  well  done,  and  in  good  grafting,  the 
joint  is  soon  lost  in  the  growth. 

There  is  one  advantage  in  grafting  in  spring :  If  it  takes,  you  may 
have  roses  the  same  year,  and  thus  a  season  is  saved ;  but,  if  any  of 
them  fail,  the  stock  will  grow,  if  the  graft  does  not ;  and,  of  course,  if 
the  graft  does  not  grow,  you  must  allow  the  top  branches  of  the  stock 
to  grow,  and  rub  off  all  other  buds,  just  as  if  it  had  not  been  grafted. 
The  China  kinds  will  graft  at  any  time  of  the  year,  but  they  must  be  on 
China  stocks,  or  stocks  partaking  of  the  nature  of  China  stocks.  It  is 
only  the  deciduous  kind  of  stock  which  is  confined  to  the  spring 
grafting,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the  solid  stock  of  a  large  size 
cleft  to  make  room  for  a  small  bit  of  choice  wood ;    they  holding  it  to 


be  a  waste  to  throw  away  the  prunings  of  tl*e  Kose,  and  givmg  much 
attention  to  the  profitable  use  of  them. 

Root  Gh  ifiing. — It  will  be  always  found  in  a  plantation  of  roses  that 


rnuPAGAT.oN    F.V    GR.\1  IIXG.  59 

sucKers  spring  up  in  abundance  from  tlie  roots;  tliese  wo  ;ld  soon  rob 
the  head  or  worked  part  of  a  great  portion  of  its  nourishment ;  but 
theye  suckers  are  useful  when  taken  off  with  a  good  portion  of  root  to 
them,  because  there  is  not  a  more  certain  mode  of  propagating  the 
Ros ;  than  neatly  grafting  a  piece  of  the  wood  of  a  Rose  on  the  root 
just  under  the  surface ;  the  union  is  almost  certain,  if  at  all  dexterously 


done.  The  proper  mode  of  doing  this,  is  to  pull  up  the  sucker,  which 
will  expose  the  root  some  distance,  and  take  off  a  good  piece  of  root 
with  it  from  the  parent  stock ;  cut  the  sucker  completely  off  to  the 
part  that  was  on  the  surface  of  the  ground ;  get  a  piece  of  the  wood 
of  a  Rose  as  nearly  the  size  of  the  root  as  possible,  cut  a  slit  in  the 
root,  making  both  cuts  smooth  and  flat  inside ;  then  cut  the  scion 
wedge  fashion,  and  make  the  bark  fit  it  even  with  the  outer  cuticle  of 
the  root ;  tie  them  well  together,  and  plant  them  so  that  the  entire 
graft  goes  under  the  surface  of  the  ground.  These  root  grafts  are 
excellent  for  dwarf  plants,  for  they  are  worked  actually  under  ground, 
and  when  well  done  they  make  excellent  plants.  Grafting  the  Rose  is 
not  chosen  before  budding;  but,  as  there  is  always  a  good  deal  of 
waste  Avood  in  a  rose  tree  that  has  to  come  off  in  spring,  many  give 
grafting  a  chance ;  and  of  grafting,  root  grafting  is  one  of  the  most 
eifective.  There  is  never  any  scarcity  of  roots  among  a  collection  of 
roses ;  forking  the  ground  a  little  brings  up  these  straggling  shoots ; 
and  so  that  there  be  a  good  piece  of  healthy  stuff,  there  is  no  difficulty 
in  making  a  good  job.  There  is  no  occasion  to  clay  over  the  join  in 
root  grafting. 

There  is  another  advantage  in  root  grafting ;  it  is  apphcable  with 
the  C  lina  kinds  all  the  season  through,  if  you  make  sure  of  a  healthy 
root;  nor  is  there  any  difficulty  in  obtaining  proper  roots  for  the  pur- 


60  PRUNING. 

pose.  Wherever  a  sucker  comes  up  through  the  ground,  use  a  fork  and 
take  up  as  much  root  as  you  think  suck  a  plant  ought  to  have ;  the 
operation  must  be  performed  quickly,  and  with  a  very  sharp  knife, 
for  the  root  must  not  dry  under  the  operation,  and  they  must  be 
planted  directly.  The  graft  need  not  be  put  in  wedge  fashion ;  any 
other  way  is  as  good,  if  the  join  be  smooth,  well  fitted,  and  tied  firmly. 
But  we  do  not  recommend  grafting  of  any  kind  as  the  best  means  of 
propagation.  Nothing  is  so  simple  as  budding,  and  scarcely  anything 
so  efficacious.  The  propagators  of  roses  by  root  grafting  are  very  apt 
to  grow  the  suckers  in  pots  for  a  considerable  time,  so  that  they  get 
completely  established  after  being  broken  away  from  the  parent  root, 
before  they  are  submitted  to  the  operation  of  grafting,  and  this 
becomes  then  almost  a  matter  of  certainty  ;  whereas  we  have  known 
the  roots  of  suckers  bleed  so  much,  that  they  have  lost  the  roct, 
and  have  been  indebted  to  the  graft  striking  root  for  not  losing  it 
altogether. 


PRUNING. 

The  principal  objects  to  be  attained  by  pruning  roses  are— first,  to 
compensate,  by  reducing  the  part  to  be  nourished,  for  the  loss  of  the 
root  that  has  to  nourish  it,  which  loss,  greater  or  lesser,  is  always 
suffered  by  removal.  The  proper  way  to  do  this  pruning  depends 
much  on  the  state  of  the  plant  when  you  have  planted  it.  If  it  be 
very  bushy,  cut  away  all  tlie  weather  branches,  leave  not  more 
than  three  or  four  of  the  best  of  the  shoots,  and  shorten  even  those 
down  to  a  few  eyes.  If  you  wish  the  plant  to  continue  dwarf  and 
bushy,  you  may  cut  down  to  the  last  eye  or  two  of  the  new  wood, 
but  leave  no  thin  half-grown  shoots  on  at  any  rate.  If  the  plant  is  a 
matured  bush,  with  numerous  branches,  and  pretty  strong  generally, 
shorten  the  new  wood  down  to  two  eyes,  which  will  show  what  more 
you  need  do.  It  may  be  found  that  you  have  then  a  great  many 
more  branches  left  on  than  you  require;  cut  one  half  of  them  close 
off,  and  that  half  must  be  the  thinnest;  but  it  may  be  that  the  plant 
will  be  improved  by  cutting  ?jme  of  the  main  branches  clear  away, 


61 


and  all  that  are  on  it;  for  rose  trees  acd  bushes,  like  everything  else, 
are  easily  spoiled  by  bearing  too  much  wood,  and  being  over-crowded. 
The  regular  Ch'mbing  Kose  is  often  required  to  make  as  much  show 
as  possible  the  first  year  of  planting ;  but  unless  they  are  removed 
with  the  greatest  possible  care,  they  ought  to  be  cut  almost  to  the 
ground,  and  thinned  out  also.  None  but  the  strongest  wood  ought 
to  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  plant,  and  if  this  be  not  of  quite  first 
rate  excellence,  it  is  far  better  to  cut  out  all  the  weak  branches,  and 
cut  down  the  strong  ones  to  two  eyes  each. 

Pruning    Standards, 

With  regard  to  Standard  Roses,  we  cannot  help  thinking,  from  all 
we  have  seen  practised,  that  a  large  portion  of  them  are  grown  alto- 
gether upon  a  wrong  principle.  Standard  trees,  to  be  handsome, 
should  be  as  wide  in  the  head  as  their  entire  height ;  and  upon  the 
present  system  of  pruning  them,  they  enlarge  a  little  every  year. 

Wt.en  your  standards  are  planted,  you  need  do  nothing  to  them  until 


PissT  Tkar'8  Growth  of  Bud 


AprD ;  {hew*  cut  all  small  shoots  off  close ;   that  is  to  say,  clear  tbem 
riaht  away ;   cut  down  the  strong  ones  to  two,  three,  or  at  most,  four 


62  PRUNING. 

eyes,  care  ll  eing  taken  that  the  top  eye  is  pointing  onward ;  the  ob- 
ject of  this  is  to  obtain  strong  branches  growing  outward,  to  make  a 
wide  liead.  As  tlie  slioots  grow,  notice  the  best  and  strongest  that  are 
growing  in  a  position  to  widen  the  head,  and  leave  them  to  make  all 
the  growth  they  can ;  allow  any  shoot  that  is  growing  up  strong  in  the 
centre  to  grow  also ;  and  further,  a  most  important  point,  rub  ofl"  or 
cut  off  with  a  very  sharp  knife,  all  weakly  growing  shoots,  all  that 
grow  inward  and  cross  the  head,  and  wherever  two  cross  each  other, 
remove  the  weakest.     The  branches  that  grow  outward  will  be  good 


Second  Tear's  Growth  or  Bud. 


enough  and  well  enough  in  one  season's  growth  to  leave  any  length 
you  please  towards  making  a  proper  sized  head ;  but  as  five  or  six  of 
these  branches  will  not  make  a  full  head,  the  next  season  they  may  be 
shortened  to  half  their  growth,  taking  care  that  the  end  bud  must  be 
an  under  one,  for  all  the  tendency  of  the  Rose  is  to  grow  upward,  and 
it  is  only  when  the  natural  growth  is  outward,  or  downward,  that  the 
weight  prevails  to  keep  it  in  a  horizontal  or  drooping  position.  This 
second  year,  and  indeed  every  subsequent  year,  every  branch  that  does 
not  assist  to  form  a  handsome  head  without  crowding,  must  be  taken 


PRUNING. 


63 


away,  and  the  younger  it  is  when  taken,  the  more  good  it«  removal 
does,  because  the  other  branches  get  the  better. 

With  regard  to  any  one  or  two,  or  even  three  upright  branches, 
though  one  strong  one  is  worth  three  weakly  ones,  they  may  be  short- 
ened down  so  that  two  or  three  good  eyes  may  be  fairly  above  the 
other  branches,  and  that  when  they  grow  outward  the  next  season, 
they  may  help  fill  up  the  head  of  the  tree  above ;  when  the  eyes 
begin  to  shoot,  rub  out  all  that  come  where  they  are  not  required,  and 
leave  those  of  which  you  are  yet  doubtful,  as  Avell  as  those  you  know 
T-ill  be  wanted,  because  it  is  at  this  pei-iod  you  have  such  control  by 


Third  Tear's    Growth  of  Bud. 

driving  the  whole  strength  of  the  tree  into  the  branches  that  are 
wanted.  In  this  way,  you  proceed  until  the  head  of  the  tree  is  the 
proper  form  and  proportion,  instead  of,  as  we  now  see  them  every- 
where, a  small,  pimping,  ungraceful  head  to  a  tall  stem,  or  trunk. 
Whe"  once  it  has  arrived  at  this  perfection,  which,  with  very  little 
care  and  attention,  it  will,  you  may  cut  back  every  year's  wood  to  two 
eyes ;  cut  out  every  weak  shoot  altogether,  if  you  have  not  rubbed  it 
off  in  the  bud ;  cut  out  all  that  are  in  the  way  of  free  growth  for  the 
rest,  and  when  any  portion  is  confused  by  reason  of  the  number  of 


64  PRUNING. 

spars  or  shortened  branches  left  on,  clear  away  a  bit  by  cutting  them 
off.  Always  remember  that  Standard  Roses  for  appearance  should  not 
be  too  closely  pruned;  but  for  showing,  when  the  individual  blooms 
are  shown,  a  multiplicity  of  flowers  is  against  size.  We  can  hardly 
recommend  too  strongly  the  necessity  of  what  we  shaU  call  spring 
pruning,  which  is,  in  fact,  nipping  the  mischief  in  the  bud,  watching 
the  development  of  the  newly  coming  branches,  and  removing  all  but 
the  number  there  is  good  room  for ;  and  as  this  has  not  been  treated 
of  at  any  length,  if  at  all,  we  may  fairly  request  attention  to  it. 

The  three  cuts  which  are  in  illustration  of  this  article,  though  not 
very  accurate,  show  the  first  year's  growth  of  two  buds  placed  in  a 
stock,  with  dotted  lines  at  the  place  we  should  cut  them ;  the  second 
year's  growth  after  such  cutting,  with  dotted  lines  where  we  should 
cut  tliem  again;  and  the  third  year's  growth  is  indicated  by  lines 
which  give  some  idea  of  it.  But  neither  of  these  cuts  is  c  xactly  what 
we  like ;  first,  because  our  pen  and  ink  sketches  were  imperfect,  we 
being  unable  to  draw  exactly  what  we  wanted ;  and  secondly,  because 
the  artist,  who  oould  have  drawn  it,  did  not  know  what  we  wanted. 
There  is  enough,  however,  done  to  assist  in  our  lesson  on  Pruning 
Standards,  though  not  to  the  extent  we  wished. 

Pruning  and  Training  Pillar  Rosea. 

Although  we  have  touched  on  the  pruning  of  bushes,  and  upon  the 
pruning  of  climbers  when  first  planted,  it  only  related  to  the  mere 
operation  of  pruning  them  for  growth,  in  the  position  they  were  to 
remain  ;  and  here,  for  the  sake  of  the  poor  roses  themselves,  and  the 
pillars  they  are  to  ornament,  we  will  suppose  they  are  cut  down  to  the 
ground,  or  nearly  so,  and  have  made  a  fresh  growth,  or  rather  are 
making  fresh  growth.  Pillars  for  roses  ought  to  be  a  foot  in  diameter, 
and  are  best  made  of  treUis  work  or  rods  of  iron,  or,  if  it  must  be  so, 
of  wood;  but  tliey  ought  to  be  one  foot  through.  As  the  leading 
shoots  come,  they  ought  to  be  wound  spirally  round  the  pillar,  at  such 
distance  from  each  other  as  will  enable  them  to  fill  up  the  space  be- 
tween with  foHage ;  their  leading  shoots  then  constitute  the  tree,  and 
all  the  side  shoots  bear  their  blooms,  and  form  a  pillar  of  roses.  We 
do  no   mean  that  this  is  all  done  in  a  year,  though  some  kinds  go  a 


PRUNING.  65 

long  way  towards  it;  here,  as  in  all  other  cases  of  rose  pruning,  the 
little  weak  shoots  must  be  removed,  the  strongest  left  on  all  the  way 
up,  and  should  be  shortened  to  two  eyes.  If  the  tops  here  die  down 
at  all,  shorten  them  to  the  strong  top  eye,  not  to  the  top  eye,  for  seve- 
ral near  the  top  may  be  found  weak,  and  they  would  never  be  other- 
wise, whereas  the  stronger  one  will  grow  fast,  and  soon  supply  the 
place  of  the  old  top. 

When  the  buds  first  show  in  spring,  it  will  be  right  to  go  over  the 
roses  carefully,  to  remove  any  that  are  in  the  way ;  and  the  growth 
of  some  roses  will  be  found  so  different  to  that  of  others,  that  one  sort 
will  want  enormous  room  to  develop  its  shoots  and  blooms,  while 
another  will  make  but  short  branches  and  bloom  abundantly.  These 
characteristics  will  be  discovered  in  a  year's  growth,  if  not  well  ex- 
plained beforehand,  and  the  provision  can  be  made  accordingly.  Many 
Pillar  or  Climbing  Roses  are  made  to  run  over  arches  from  piUar  to 
pillar,  or  along  festoons  from  pillar  to  pillar ;  the  best  way  to  manage 
those  parts  which  form  the  arch,  or  festoon,  is  merely  to  thin  out  their 
weak  branches  without  shortening  their  strong  ones,  because  they 
will  bloom  more  abundantly,  which  is  the  great  charm ;  and  the  loose 
and  free  manner  in  which  they  hang  about  will  be  to  their  advantage, 
80  they  be  kept  within  bounds  a  little. 

Pruning   and   Training  Rosea   on  Flat  Trellises,    Walls,    and 
Fronts  of  Houses. 

The  management  of  this  family  is  very  similar  to  that  of  Pillar  Roses, 
except  that  the  leading  shoots  must  be  encouraged  to  grow  the  best 
way  to  fill  up  the  space  allotted  to  the  plant,  for  which  purpose  it  will 
be  advisable,  in  some  cases,  to  train  the  strongest  two  shoots  horizon- 
tally right  and  left  along  the  bottom ;  or  if  the  space  to  cover  be  only 
one  way,  to  train  one  strong  shoot  along  the  bottom,  and  turn  it  up  at 
the  end  ;  if  it  reach  further,  the  rest  of  the  strong  shoots  may  be  fanned 
out  at  equidistances,  and  all  the  weak  joints  removed.  The  next  year, 
rub  off  the  buds  that  are  coming  where  they  are  not  wanted.  Allow 
any  strong  shoots  that  come  up  from  the  bottom  horizontal  shoot,  to 
grow  as  much  as  they  will,  but  no  weaK.  ones.  A  fast-growing  Rose 
will  soon  cover  a  house  front,  a  trellis,  or  wall,  and  flower  all  over. 


When  the  space  gets  filled,  you  must  continue  cutting  out,  from  year 
to  3'ear,  all  thin,  spindley  shoots,  and  spare  the  strong  ones,  so  that  the 
stongest  eyes  only  are  developed,  instead  of  all  of  them ;  and  the  Roses 
are  closely  set  to  their  wall  or  treUis,  instead  of  hanging  lolloping 
about;  the  very  thi-ng  which  is  good  on  a  pillar,  or  an  arbor,  or  over 
an  archway,  or  on  festoons,  being  the  reverse  on  a  flat  surface.  As  a 
never-failing  operation,  however,  in  all  cases,  the  weak,  spindley  shoots 
may  always  be  removed,  whether  the  strong  wood  be  short'^ned  or 
not. 

Pruning  of  Standards  on  Their  Own  Bottoms,  or  Roots. 

It  is  very  common  to  see  among  Dwarf  or  Bush  Roses,  a  strong 
shoot  growing  upright,  a  sucker  from  the  root ;  and  it  is  frequently 
the  case  that  these  will  rise  up  to  five  or  six  feet  high.  In  the  Moss 
Roses,  this  is  often  to  be  found.  These  may  always  be  trained  into 
standard  trees,  with  heads  in  every  way  proportioned  to  the  stem. 
As  soon  as  a  vigorous  shoot  of  this  kind  makes  its  appearance,  cut  in 
the  bush  at  bottom  rather  hard,  as  it  will  tend  to  strengthen  the  root, 
which  will  be  relieved  of  some  of  its  work  by  the  operation.  When 
the  shoot  has  attained  the  required  height,  pinch  off  the  top  ;  this  will 
encourage  side  shoots,  all  of  which,  except  the  two  or  three  at  the  top, 
must  be  rubbed  off.  It  rarely  occurs,  however,  that  any  side  g\  owth 
is  made  the  first  season ;  so  that  the  better  way,  unless  the  shoot  be 
getting  too  long  early  in  the  season,  is  to  let  it  ripen  its  wood.  The 
latter  part  of  the  autumn,  you  may  look  at  the  root,  to  see  what  state 
it  is  in,  and  how  far  it  may  be  dependent  on  the  main  root.  If  it  be 
closely  joined,  so  that  there  would  not  be  sufficient  root  if  separated, 
the  old  bush  must  be  sacrificed,  and  the  root  secured  for  the  standard. 
As  the  upper  part  of  the  shoot  may  not  be  well  ripened,  it  will  be  as 
well  to  bind  a  hay  band  round  it,  or  tie  some  moss  or  other  litter,  to 
save  it  fiom  sharp  frost,  though  moderate  ones  will  not  injure. 

In  the  spring,  cut  the  end  off  as  low  down  as  will  do  for  your  pur- 
pose, and  when  the  buds  shoot  out,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  three  or 
four  upper  ones  come  first ;  all  others  on  the  stem  must  be  rubbed  off. 
Nor  is  it  any  great  use  having  two  buds  on  the  same  side  of  the  tree ; 
if  you  can  manage  to  have  three,  or  even  four,  within  a  few  inches  of 
tlie  ten.  --ointing  different  ways,  they  will  form  the  better  hold  of  it,  to 


GENERAL   BINTS.  67 

Strengthen  the  other  portion  of  the  tree.  Continue  to  be  watchful  as 
to  other  buds  that  wUl  be  continually  pushing  from  the  main  stem,  and 
let  not  one  grow  but  those  you  have  selected  for  the  head. 

At  the  end  of  the  year,  these  will  have  made  considerable  growth, 
and,  instead  of  being  cut  back  the  next  spring  to  two  eyes,  as  is  the 
case  with  many,  cut  them  back  only  so  far  as  to  insure  the  strength 
of  the  remainder,  say,  so  as  to  leave  five  or  six  eyes.  The  next  season 
of  growth,  there  will,  out  of  three  or  four  branches,  come  four  or  five 
branches  each.  Those  which  come  in  their  places,  to  help  form  a 
handsome  head,  may  be  allowed  to  grow;  but  if  any  come  so  as  to 
cross  others,  or  where  there  is  plenty  of  growth  akeady,  let  them  be 
rubbed  off;  but  it  is  quite  possible  for  an  eye  to  shoot  where  it  is  not 
wanted,  and  yet  the  first  or  second  eye  of  that  shoot  may  be  in  a 
direction  to  fill  up  a  vacancy  where  it  is  necessary ;  this  must,  of 
course,  be  looked  to  before  buds  are  rubbed  off.  These  branches,  when 
grown  another  season,  will  stretch  out  the  head  on  all  sides  to  a  re- 
spectable size,  and  enable  you  to  thin  out  the  weak  wood,  and  cutback 
the  strong;  so  that  instead  of  having  the  head  pimping  and  small,  it 
may  bear  a  proportion  to  the  stem ;  for,  as  we  have  said  before,  the 
head  ought  to  be  as  wide  across  as  the  stem  is  long  from  the  ground, 
to  the  under  part  of  the  head.  There  is  one  thing  to  be  observed  with 
regard  to  standards  on  their  own  bottom :  they  never  break  off,  nor 
df.'cay,  nor  canker,  half  so  much  as  budded  and  grafted  ones. 


GENERAL    HINTS. 

W"k  may  mention,  as  a  general  characteristic,  that  there  is  no  plant 
which  yields  more  willingly  to  culture  than  the  Rose,  nor  in  the 
growth  of  which  there  is  so  much  certainty.  If  you  desire  a  large 
quartity  of  bloom,  and  are  not  anxious  about  the  size  of  the  flowers, 
there  is  nothing  required  tut  to  spare  the  knife ;  take  out  weak  shoots, 
but  leave  plenty  of  wood  on  the  tree ;  for  every  eye  will  bloom,  and 


f)8  GENERAL    HINT3. 

the  more  you  leave  on,  the  better  for  that  purpose.  In  this  case,  the 
new  wood  made  is  but  short,  because  there  is  so  much  of  it.  If,  on 
the  contrary,  you  desire  large  blooms,  cut  away  all  the  strong  wood, 
of  the  year  previous,  down  to  two  eyes  at  the  most,  and  cut  all  the 
Aveak  Avood  out  altogether.  Indeed,  you  may  go  further;  for  you 
may  cut  away  half  the  strong  snoots,  and  lessen  the  number  of  eyes 
still  more. 

Again,  roses  in  poor  soil  will  grow  and  bloom ;  their  flowers  will  be 
smaller,  but  not  less  healthy ;  their  wood  will  be  weaker  and  shorter, 
but  still  sound.  The  principal  danger  when  a  Rose  is  starved  is,  that 
it  may  come  less  double ;  and  this  is  so  serious  a  fault,  that  it  has 
occasioned  many  to  be  thrown  away  that  did  not  deserve  it,  and 
caused  many  others  to  be  considered  wrong  varieties,  when  they 
wanted  nothing  but  good  growth  to  make  them  right  ones.  On  the 
other  hand,  rich  soils  will  cause  a  Rose  to  grow  enormously ;  and  all 
intermediate  growths  between  the  strongest  and  the  weakest  may  be 
secured  according  to  the  soil  they  are  put  in  to  grow.  Generally, 
people  fancy  that  dung  is  the  only  thing  required ;  this  is  a  mistake, 
loam  is  required  to  grow  the  Rose  in  perfection ;  and  if  the  ground  is 
poor  and  light,  a  spadeful  of  loam  and  a  spadeful  of  dung  will  be  far 
better  than  two  spadefuls  of  dung.  This  ought  to  be  always  mixed 
with  the  soil  a  little,  and  the  Rose  planted  in  it. 

Roses  are  sadly  injured  by  the  wind,  and  the  blooms  require  fasten- 
ing to  something  or  other,  to  prevent  their  being  frayed.  The  stakes 
of  roses  should  always  be  made  fast  to  the  Rose,  or  the  roses  made  fast 
to  the  stakes  with  leaden  or  copper  wire ;  because  bass  matting,  or 
other  perishable  stuff,  will  give  way  when  high  wind  takes  them,  and 
they  receive  a  good  deal  of  mischief  before  they  are  observed  and 
fastened  again. 

Of  the  roses  at  present  in  cultivation,  very  few  which  are  not  semi- 
double  will  open  out  boldly ;  and  those  which  are  semi-double,  are 
not  fit  to  show  as  single  flowers.  There  are,  however,  some  which 
will  bear  the  test  of  stand-showing,  and  they  not  of  the  dearest  or 
newest.  Those,  therefore,  who  desire  to  grow  none  but  perfect 
flowers,  should  state  to  the  dealer,  of  whom  they  mean  to  buy,  that 
their  object  is  to  have  none  but  such  as  will  expand  and  show  a  good 
face  when  fully  bloomed,  as  they  purpose  growing  none  others.     The 


GENERAL    HINTS.  69 

establishment  of  the  showing  in  stands,  like  dahlias,  will  cause  many 
old  and  fine  roses  to  be  appreciated,  and  a  great  many  new  ones  to  be 
discai-ded;  for  although  it  is  not  the  gayest  mode  of  exhibiting  roses, 
it  is  ';y  far  the  best  mode  of  testing,  and  it  is  curious  to  see  the  num- 
ber of  varieties  with  very  glaring  faults.  For  instance,  some  are  close 
balls  of  petals,  with  the  outer  ones  rolling  back  a  httle,  as  if  they  were 
shrivelhng;  bu^  never  opening  fairly.  Others  no  sooner  open  than 
they  show  their  yellow  seeds  and  their  paucity  of  petals;  some  are  on 
stems  too  weak  to  hold  tliem  in  their  position  ;  others,  again,  burst 
into  a  broken  mass  of  ill-formed  petals,  that  do  not  compensate  for 
their  sweetness.  Some  fall  to  pieces  the  instant  they  are  open,  and 
others  almost  before  they  open  ;  manj''  are  shapeless  masses  of  colored 
flims}'  texture,  that  neither  hold  themselves  in  form  nor  impart  fra- 
grance. It  is  worth  while  to  direct  the  attention  of  the  amateur  to 
the  large  collections  of  roses  sometimes  to  be  seen  at  exhibitions,  and 
to  the  very  few  which  are  to  be  found  among  them  of  a  fine  form. 
They  will  observe  bunches  of  half-bloomed  flowers,  that  dare  not  be 
shown ;  they  will  find  plenty  of  hard  lumps,  on  stems  not  strong 
enough  to  bear  th^  Avithout  lolloping  about;  they  will  find  some 
without  a  round  smooth  petal. among  them,  but  very  few  so  good  as 
the  Tuscan,  the  Cabbage,  the  Moss,  the  Provence,  and  the  oldest  of 
the  knoAvn  good  varieties.  This  shows  the  necessity  of  attention  to 
the  hints  we  have  thrown  out;  for  we  must  again  confess,  that 
although  we  have  selected  the  best  among  eleven  or  twelve  himdred 
roses,  there  are  many  that  we  shall  see  rejected  like  the  remainder  of 
the  entire  collection,  to  make  way  for  better  flowers  and  better  taste. 
As  a  concluding  observation  respecting  the  management  of  the 
JRose,  we  are  bound  to  say,  that  a  good  deal  that  is  done  now  is 
erroneous,  although  taught  by  rose  cultivators;  and  especially  with 
regard  to  roses  in  pots,  which,  however  pretty  they  may  look,  are 
very  much  drawn,  and  very  unnaturally  supported.  That  the  system, 
if  pursued,  will  lead  to  the  introduction  and  toleration  of  varieties 
which  cannot  support  themselves,  in  the  same  manner  as  it  did  to  the 
introduction  of  worthless  geraniums,  there  is  no  room  to  doubt ;  for 
in  the  specimens  exhibited  in  pots  at  various  shows,  the  total  inability 
of  the  flowers  and  stems  to  support  themselves  is  manifested,  as  well 
as  the  dispositions  lo  encourage  this  strange  mode  of  distorting  things. 
Some   allowance   should  be  made  for  any  forced  subject ;    but  that 


70  GENERAL    HINTS. 

gardener  who  can  produce  his  plants  without  supports,  is  .he  one 
who  deserves  a  prize  for  his  skill ;  not  the  man  who  draws  a  plant  till 
it  cannot  support  itself,  and  then  keeps  it  up  with  framework. 

There  is  much  to  be  done  in  the  choice  of  roses,  for  particular 
objects.  Those  inclined  to  droop  should  be  on  very  tall  stalks,  for 
their  pendulous  habit  is  very  handsome,  and  renders  the  tree  a  beau- 
tiful drooping  object;  those  for  bushes  ought  to  be  short  jointed  and 
close  habited,  as  best  suited  to  dwarfs,  and  so  also  will  they  be  found 
for  dwarf  standards. 

The  general  routine  for  rose  culture  is  given  both  as  respects  the 
general  collection,  and  also  for  seedlings ;  and  with  attention  to  what 
has  been  here  written,  we  think  a  mere  novice  may,  with  a  little 
enterprise,  beat  one  who  grows  upon  any  other  system. 

Tew  people  are  aware  of  the  injustice  sometimes  done  to  roses, 
which  are  condemned  as  worthless,  when  the  culture  alone  is  the 
cause  of  their  misbehavior.  The  Rose  is  a  fidgety  customer.  The 
French  people  are  famous  for  raising  new  varieties,  and  describing 
them  as  very  superb ;  the  English  and  American  nurserymen  buy 
them  as  soon  as  they  can  be  obtained,  and  describe  them  to  their 
customers  as  something  recherche;  they  are  purchased  by  amateur 
cultivators  upon  the  strength  of  such  characters,  grown  for  a 
year,  and  too  often  thrown  away  as  worthless.  Once  for  all,  let  us 
inform  our  readers,  that  no  Rose  can  be  depended  on  for  growing  to 
its  character  under  the  third  season.  The  effect  of  poor  culture  is  to 
make  a  Double  Rose  semi-double  and  single ;  and  that  which  would 
be  rich  culture  to  anything  else,  may  be  poor  to  the  Rose,  because  if 
it  be  not  suitable,  it  may  as  well  be  poor. 

There  are  many  things  which  affect  the  Rose,  but  the  principal  one 
is  tantamount  to  saying  that  it  does  not  feel  itself  at  home.  European 
nurserymen  often  propagate  roses  rather  too  mechanically  ;  the  greater 
part  of  them  are  "  made  to  sell."  So  long  as  the  stock  will  keep  the 
bud  alive,  and  let  it  grow,  that  is  all  the  nurseryman  asks  or  wishes. 
Now,  it  is  quite  certain  that  a  stock  without  mud  root  will  live,  and 
hundreds  of  plants  sent  from  abroad  are  of  this  description.  There 
may  be  strength  enough  in  the  stock  to  grow  and  bloom  the  kind 
upon  it,  but  as  the  stock  is  not  fairly  at  Lome,  the  first  year  is  often 
wasted  in  making  root  enough  to  lay  hold  of  the  ground,  and  during 
this  period,  the  head  is  grown  but  poorly. 


GENERAL    HINTS.  71 

As  to  blooming,  it  should  not  be  allowed  until  the  growth  is  vigor- 
ous, for  it  comes  miserably  poor,  if  at  all.  The  second  year,  it  is  more 
reconciled  to  its  place,  and  the  third  may  be  considered  a  fair  trial. 
Take  the  very  best  Rose  we  have,  and  grow  it  badly,  the  result  will 
be  bad  flowers ;  but,  if  this  be  the  case  with  well-known  varieties, 
iiow  cautious  ought  we  to  be  of  condemning  a  candidate  for  our  favors 
when  we  have  no  evidence  of  its  real  character.  Eose  growers  say 
it  is  impossible  to  tell,  after  a  removal,  what  a  Rose  ought  to  be  by 
what  it  is;  that  it  ought  to  be  tried  three  seasons  before  condemna- 
tion, and  not  be  discarded  imder  an  idea  that  it  is  useless,  merely 
because  it  flowers  badly,  which  is  not  always  the  case.  A  Rose  will 
sometimes  be  for  several  years  only  middling,  when,  if  it  liked  the 
ground,  it  would  be  excellent. 

When  you  have  a  Rose,  first  you  should  cut  away  all  bruised  parts 
of  the  root,  and  see  that  all  the  broken  ends  of  the  shoots  in  the 
ground,  or  root  shoots,  are  smooth ;  then  plant  it  the  first  year  in 
good  strong  fresh  loam,  from  a  pasture.  If  rotten  dung  be  at  the 
bottom,  so  much  the  better,  but  do  not  let  the  dung  touch  the  roots. 
Cut  nothing  back  of  the  head  or  bud  shoot,  or  if  it  be  an  established 
head,  cut  nothing  back  until  you  see  the  buds  swelling,  so  as  to  enable 
you  to  calculate  what  portion  is  alive,  and  what  has  died  back.  As 
soon  as  this  is  indicated  by  the  growing  of  the  buds,  cut  away  clean 
to  the  tree  all  the  branches  which  may  have  perished.  When  these 
are  removed,  you  see  what  head  you  have  to  depend  on,  and  how 
much  you  may  cut  back  without  losing  an  opportunity  of  forming  or 
improving  a  head  for  the  next  season.  For  instance,  all  the  branches 
but  one  will  often  die  back,  and  be  forced  to  be  removed  by  the  knife. 
Had  the  pruning  at  first  been  close,  and  each  branch  cut  back  to  two 
eyes,  there  Avould  be  but  two,  of  course,  left  on  the  only  living  one, 
and  but  two  shoots  could  be  had  from  them ;  having,  however,  dis- 
covered that  but  one  branch  is  left,  this  has  to  be  preserved  somewhat 
longer,  and  therefore  should  be  pruned  to  four  or  five,  instead  of  two 
eyes.  These  Tiay  be  managed  to  form  branches  all  round  the  tree,  or 
rather  at  such  distance  as  prudence  dictates,  due  regard  being  had  to 
the  strength  of  the  plant.  If  the  tree  takes  off  vigorously,  and  the 
wood  grows  very  strong,  the  bloom  is  pretty  sure  to  be  inferior,  as 
indeed  is  the  case  when  almost  any  plant  runs  to  wood ;  so  that  it  is 


tZ  GENERAL    HINTS. 

quite  as  unlikely  that  the  bloom  of  the  Rose  is  in  character  when  the 
plant  is  too  vigorous,  as  when  it  is  meagre  or  too  much  starved 

Hybridising  has  done  much  good  tor  roses,  but  it  has  also  done  its 
mischief;  for,  if  it  has  introduced  some  splendid  varieties,  it  has  teased 
us  with  hundreds  not  worth  growing ;  some,  which  are  close  hard 
lumps  of  roUed-up  petals,  turn  over  their  thin  edges  like  a  dog- 
eared book  ;  the  backs  of  the  petals  a  dull  color,  scarcely  any  scent  to 
them,  and  altogether  bad  openers,  and  bad  if  they  can  be  made  to 
open.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  Rose  should  not  be  as  pti-fect  a3 
the  Camellia  japonica.  There  are  some  of  the  Bourb»ns  with  petals 
as  smooth  and  as  thick,  and  almost  as  regular ;  and  these  are  the 
kinds  to  buy  and  grow.  They  hold  their  form  longer  and  better  than 
those  with  thin  petals ;  they  open  more  freely,  and  are  better  when 
they  do  open.  The  habits  of  these  fuU-fiowered  plants  are  better ; 
the  flowers,  instead  of  lolloping  their  heads  down,  show  themselves 
well.  All  the  full  free  opening  roses  of  old  age  are  of  this  descrip- 
tion ;  witness  the  Cabbage  Rose,  the  Maiden's  Blush,  the  Provence, 
and  some  others,  which  are  as  familiar  as  the  name  of  the  Rose  itself. 
It  is  true  that  the  bud  of  a  Rose  is  pretty,  and  that  a  bunch  of  roses 
is  pretty,  but  while  we  have  good  roses  that  will  open,  and  of  almost 
every  color,  it  is  unnecessary  to  grow  bad  ones ;  and  if  the  character 
of  roses  is  established  by  showing  single  blooms,  which  shall  be 
required  to  be  open,  there  will  be  but  little  difficulty  in  doing  all  the 
rest. 

Nevertheless,  on  receiving  roses  from  nurseries,  whether  American 
or  foreign,  pay  attention  to  these  directions  in  the  planting,  and  be 
not  in  a  hurry  to  condemn.  Let  them  fail  the  first  season,  and  be 
even  middhng  only  the  second,  but  give  them  the  benefitof  the  doubt, 
and  try  them  a  third  season.  Convince  yourself  that  the  variety  is 
incapable  of  becoming  better,  and  that  you  have  seen  their  natural 
habit,  before  you  throw  them  away.  If  a  petal  is  thin  and  curly, 
rough-edged  and  flimsy,  it  can  never  be  good  ;  if  the  petals  are  good, 
but  there  are  too  few  of  them,  there  is  great  hope  that  culture  will 
improve  it  from  a  semi-double  to  a  perfect  double,  which  is  all  that  li 
wanted. 


CALENDAR   OF   0PERATI0K3.  73 


CALENDAR    OF    OPERATIONS. 

The  following  Calendar  for  the  management  of  the  Rcise,  during 
each  month  of  the  year,  is  designed  for  the  central  parts  of  the  United 
States,  including  the  temperate  regions  of  Maryland,  Virginia,  Ohio, 
Kentucky,  Indiana,  Missouri,  and  Illinois.  The  season  of  spring  com- 
mences in  the  middle  latitudes  of  G-eorgia,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  and 
of  Texas,  and  the  northern  part  of  Louisiana,  and  the  southern  part 
of  Arkansas,  about  one  month  earlier ;  and  a  month  or  five  weeks 
later  in  Rhode  Island,  Massachusetts,  and  in  the  central  latitudes  of 
New  York,  Wisconsin,  and  of  Michigan.  The  period  of  sowing,  how- 
ever, will  admit  of  some  latitude,  on  account  of  the  degree  of  dryness 
of  the  soil,  and  of  its  exposure  to  cold  or  moist  winds,  and  to  the  solar 
warmth. 

It  has  long  been  observed  that  Nature,  in  her  operations,  is  so  uni- 
form, that  the  forwardness  of  trees,  in  unfolding  their  flowers  and 
leaves,  is  an  unerring  indication  of  the  forwardness  of  spring;  and 
that  the  period  at  which  the  shrub  red  bud  ( Cercis  canadensis)  puts 
forth,  is  the  proper  time  to  plant  Indian  corn,  and  sow  in  open  cul- 
ture the  seeds  of  the  Rose. 

3F  a  n  u  a  r  5  . 

Look  well  to  all  standard  roses ;  see  that  their  stakes  are  firmly  m 
the  ground,  and  the  stocks  or  trunks  are  well  fastened  to  them.  If  the 
heads  of  standards  are  very  large,  compared  with  the  hold  they  have 
upon  the  stock,  it  is  necessary  that  the  stock  to  which  the  tree  is  fast- 
ened should  reach  partly  through  the  head,  and  be  fastened  to  the 
head  itself  It  is  also  desirable,  when  very  large  growth  has  been 
made,  to  shorten,  though  not  properly  prune,  all  the  longest  branches, 
to  lessen  the  head,  that  the  wind  may  not  have  too  much  power.  If 
you  have  not  provided  yourself  with  stocks  before  this  month,  lose  no 
time,  and  when  procured,  prune  the  roots  into  moderate  form,  for  they 
will  frequently  be  found  straggUng  and  awkward.  Besides  planting 
out  a  number  in  rows,  to  be  worked  in  the  open  ground,  pot  some  of 
the  most  compact-rooted  in  pots,  and  plunge  them,  making  a  post-and- 
rail  sort  of  frame  along  them  to  fasten  the  stocks  to,  and  prevent  them 
■i 


li  CAIENDAK    OF    OPERATIONS. 

from  V  i'mg  disturbed  by  the  wind ;  also,  if  you  have  not  got  Ir  all  the 
roses  you  want,  order  them  and  plant. 

Protect  the  smooth-wooded  kinds,  budded  on  the  stocks,  in  pots, 
from  the  cold,  and  see  that  those  in  beds  are  well  covered  with  litter 
where  there  is  danger  of  their  suffering  from  frost ;  and,  as  the  smooth- 
wooded  varieties  budded  in  pots  will  be  growing,  support  their  shoots 
and  remove  all  other  eyes  from  the  stocks  the  instant  they  break. 

At  the  North,  where  roses  in  parlors  and  greenhouses  are  coming 
into  flower,  syringe  the  plants  freely  with  water,  and  occasionally  with 
a  solution  of  Peruvian  guano,  mixed  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  pint 
of  guano  to  eight  gallons  of  water.  Fumigate  often  with  tobacco,  in 
order  to  keep  down  the  green  fly;  and  with  sulphur,  to  kill  the  red 
spider. 

jFcftruarj. 

Look  over  the  established  stocks,  and  see  which  are  most  favorable 
for  grafting ;  and  if  you  have  any  wood  of  roses  you  intend  to  graft, 
leave  it  on  the  trees ;  but  if  you  have  to  obtain  wood,  seek  for  it  in 
time ;  and  if  you  get  it,  plant  the  thickest  end  downward  in  the 
ground,  in  some  shady  place,  because  they  ought  not  to  be  grafted  till 
next  month,  and  the  cuttings  will  keep  some  time.  The  China  Roses 
in  the  house,  and  roses  in  the  forcing  house,  must  be  kept  well  syringed, 
and  watched  carefully,  that,  in  the  event  of  the  green  fly  attacking  them, 
they  may  be  fumigated,  as  well  as  syringed.  Roses  in  pots  should  be 
kept  a  little  moist,  and  if  not  pruned  in  autumn,  should  be  pruned 
directly.  Look  to  a  supply  of  wild  stocks,  if  you  have  not  yet  com- 
pleted your  arrangements. 

Bruise  the  berries  which  have  been  saved  for  seed,  and  rub  out  the 
seed  ready  for  sowing  next  month. 

At  the  North,  continue  the  same  treatment  as  recommended  last 
month 

fE  a  r  c  1) . 

Prune  all  roses  which  were  left  half  done  in  the  aututu/i,  or  not  done 
at  all,  especially  grafted  and  budded  ones  of  last  year,  as  they  have 
this  year  to  make  some  growth.  Stocks  may  still  do  if  the  season  is 
backward,  but  not  a  day  must  be  lost     Look  over  all  the  standard 


CALENDAR    OF    OPERATIONS.  75 

trees,  examine  the  pushing  buds,  trim  out  all  weak  shoots  from  ihe 
buds,  and  cut  away  all  shoots  from  the  stock.  This  must  be  always 
considered  of  first  consequence,  for  the  growth  cf  a  branch  from  a  stock 
will  completely  check  the  growth  of  the  head.  All  grafted  and  budded 
trees,  when  once  fairly  growing,  should  be  deprived  of  all  means  of 
growth  from  the  stock  itself  It  is  not  wise  to  destroy  altogether  the 
growth  of  the  stock  above  the  graft  or  bud,  uutil  the  union  and  sub- 
sequent growth  of  the  graft  or  bud  itself  are  well  established  ;  but  this 
once  accomplished,  leave  no  vestige  of  growth  belonging  to  the  stock, 
and  constantly  rub  off  every  bud.  You  may  commence  grafting  this 
month. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  large  pots  or  deep  pans,  and  keep  them  from  once 
getting  dry,  or  being  frosted. 

At  the  North,  hardy  roses  may  be  safely  pruned  the  last  of  this 
month. 

^  p  V  i  I . 

If  any  suckers  appear  among  established  roses  or  stocks,  worked  or 
unworked,  remove  the  earth  down  to  where  they  join  the  root,  and 
cut  them  off  close.  If  the  rose  quarter  is  at  all  infested  with  snails  or 
slugs,  use  all  means  to  destroy  them.  Inverted  flower  pots,  tilted  on 
one  side,  will  catch  manj'-  snails ;  cabbage  leaves  laid  on  the  ground, 
and  examined  daily,  will  entrap  slugs.  All  stocks  on  which  grafts  or 
buds  failed  last  season  must  be  looked  upon  as  new  stocks,  and  cut 
down  to  where  they  appear  alive.  The  shoots  upon  which  buds  were 
placed  should  be  cut  off  close,  as  well  as  side  growths,  if  they  are 
intended  for  budding,  but  if  for  grafting,  the  inside  shoots  may  be 
strong  enough  to  graft  on  ;  if  the  grafts,  and  the  shoot  grafted  on,  be 
nearly  alike,  the  graft  may  be  all  the  safer,  and  the  place  of  union 
more  completely  healed  than  when  small  grafts  are  placed  in  large 
stocks.  This  month  is  a  good  one  for  grafting  or  spring  budding, 
though  the  operation  may  be  performed  successfully  in  March.  Cut 
back  to  two  eyes  all  that  have  been  left  unpruned,  by  which  late 
pruning  back,  the  blooming  will  be  protracted  considerably. 

Keep  the  seeds  sown  las'  month,  moist;  and  if  the  season  be  dry, 
moisten  them  by  laying  on  tne  surface  some  wet  moss.  Shade  them, 
also,  from  the  hot  sun. 

At  the  North,  hardy  roses  of  all  kinds  should  now  be  pruned.  Moss 


76  CAI^NDAR    OF    OPERATIONS. 

Eoses  cut  back  short.     Rose  seeds  may  be  sown  the  last  of  this  month 
or  early  in  May.     Spring  budding  may  also  be  performed. 

This  is  an  important  month  with  the  Rose.  First  and  foremost, 
the  vigilance  in  looking  for  the  breaking  buds  of  stocks,  which  would 
rob  the  head  of  its  growth,  must  be  doubled,  and  every  three  or  four 
days  they  must  be  examined  and  rubbed  off.  Suckers  must  also  be 
grubbed  up  the  instant  they  appear.  The  shoots  of  the  buds  of  last 
year  will  make  rapid  growth,  and  require  to  be  screened,  that  the 
wind  may  not  break  them  out  or  damage  them  ;  and  it  is  a  very  good 
plan  to  tie  a  stick  to  the  stem,  to  reach  a  foot  above  it,  and  this  does 
well  to  support  any  of  the  shoots.  But  when  a  bud  throws  up  a  very 
strong  shoot,  it  is  well  to  take  the  top  off  as  soon  as  there  are  two  pair 
of  leaves,  for  it  will  make  the  shoot  form  a  head  the  first  season ;  but, 
in  any  case,  the  shoots  must  be  supported  by  a  loose  tie  to  the  stick 
above  mentioned. 

The  young  seedlings  will  be  up  this  month,  and  will  require  great 
care  to  keep  them  from  damaging  by  too  much  wet,  or  burning  up  for 
want  of  moisture. 

At  the  North,  Tea,  Bengal,  Noisette  and  other  roses  may  now  be 
planted  out  in  borders.  Rose  seed  may  be  sown  early  in  this  month, 
and  spring  budding  performed. 

S  u  n  e . 

This  month,  great  dihgence  must  be  used  to  prevent  the  stocks  from 
growing  from  their  own  wood,  instead  of  throwing  all  their  stength 
into  the  grafts  and  buds.  It  is  time  also  to  be  looking  out  for  sorts  you 
intend  to  bud  with,  either  by  buying  the  plants  outright,  or  bespeak- 
ing buds  for  the  season ;  and  if  any  come  in  your  way  about  the  end 
of  the  month,-  do  not  be  afraid  of  budding  on  the  strongest  wood  you 
can  find  of  the  present  season's  growth  among  the  stocks,  tl  ough  you 
may  properly  choose  a  later  season,  if  you  have  nothing  to  hurry  you. 

The  young  seedlings  will  have  advanced  enough  to  pot  oS",  one  in 
a  pot,  with  loam,  peat,  and  decomposed  dung ;  they  must  be  placed 
m  the  shade  out  of  doors,  or  in  a  frame  and  light,  in  order  to  grow  five 
or  six  weeks.     See  that  they  are  watered  as  often  as  may  be  neces- 


CALENDAR   OF   OPKRATIONS.  77 

sary ;   and  on  any  appearance  of  the  green  fly,  fumigate  them  with 
tobacco. 

At  the  North,  roses  should  be  planted  out  in  borders  for  summer 
blooming. 

If  this  month  be  at  all  forward,  you  may  bud  ;  and  if  you  have 
wood  given  to  you  when  you  are  not  ready  for  it,  put  the  ends  in  wet 
sand,  and  a  hand  glass  over  them ;  but  the  sooner  you  can  use  the 
buds  after  you  have  got  them  the  better.  The  stocks  must  be  put  in 
completely  all  over,  except  one  or  two  eyes  beyond  the  bud  on  the 
branches  in  which  the  bud  is  inserted.  All  China  Roses  in  pots  or 
out  of  doors  may  be  budded,  and  so  also  may  all  the  smooth-barked 
kinds. 

Plant  out  the  young  seedlings  potted  last  month,  in  beds  four  feet 
wide,  in  the  same  soil,  without  disturbing  the  balls  of  earth ;  let  them 
be  six  inches  from  the  side  of  the  bed,  and  a  foot  apart  each  way. 
Protect  them  from  vermin  by  all  ordinary  means;  shade  them  from 
the  heat  of  the  sun  at  mid-day  ;  wate:  if  required. 

At  the  North,  roses  of  all  kinds  planted  in  open  ground,  may  be 
layered  the  last  of  this  month.  Perpetual  Roses  will  bloom  best  in 
autumn,  if  they  are  pruned  in  after  having  opened  their  first  flowers. 

^  U  fl  u  s  t . 

Continue  the  budding,  and  use  every  precaution  to  prevent  the 
stock  from  growing,  and  remove  suckers  the  instant  they  appear 
above  ground.  Nothing  should  be  allowed  to  grow,  except,  just 
beyond  the  bud ;  a  shoot  may  be  beneficial,  as  it  draws  the  sap  past 
the  bud;  but  as  soon  as  it  is  united  and  doing  well,  anything  growing 
beyond  it  may  be  broken  off,  or  bent  down  to  check  it  a  little.  Cut- 
tings of  the  smooth-barked  kinds  will  strike  almost  every  month  in  the 
year ;  but  at  the  end  of  this  month,  whatever  you  may  be  anxious  to 
propagate  may  be  struck  in  the  shade,  under  a  hand  glass,  or  even 
quicker  where  the-e  is  a  little  bottom  heat. 

The  same  directions  will  also  apply  to  the  North. 


78  CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS. 


Sep  tcmfier. 

You  may  now  examine  the  budded  plants,  and  undo  the  ties  of  any 
tliat  appear  to  swell,  tying  them  more  loosely,  although  tight  enough 
to  hold  in  the  bud.  If  any  of  the  buds  have  failed,  you  may  open  a 
fresh  place,  and  insert  others;  but  if  well  done,  this  will  seldom  be  the 
case.  Continue  to  remove  any  shoots  or  eyes  that  are  showing 
growth  in  the  stock,  for  on  this  much  depends.  Cuttings  from  the 
smooth-wooded  kinds  may  be  taken  and  struck,  and  any  that  are 
struck  may  be  potted  off  in  small  pots.  Weed  the  young  plants  in  the 
beds.     Water  them  if  the  season  be  dry. 

At  the  North,  roses  intended  for  early  forcing,  should  now  be 
repotted  and  pruned. 

©  c  toiler . 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  look  out  for  healthy  stocks,  or  get 
some  one  in  that  way  of  business  to  collect  for  you.  Always  choose, 
and  make  any  one  who  undertakes  to  supply  you  understand  that  you 
require  strong  stems,  perfectly  straight,  with  compact  roots,  that  have 
not  been  much  damaged  by  removal.  Any  that  you  get  should  be  at 
once  trimmed  and  planted  in  rows,  about  eighteen  inches  apart,  and 
the  rows  wide  enough  to  enable  you  to  go  up  and  down  them  well, 
to  operate  in  the  way  of  grafting  and  budding  when  required.  Many 
of  the  budded  stocks  may  now  be  untied  altogether,  but  it  is  not  well 
to  cut  the  branches  in  which  they  are  budded  close  down  to  the  bud 
until  the  spring  months.  As  they  would  be  more  susceptible  of 
damage  by  frost,  let  them  all  be  properly  sheltered,  and  fastened,  if 
they  have  become  loosened.  Shorten  the  longest  branches  of  standard 
roses,  that  they  may  not  hold  the  wind  so  much ;  and  although  it 
would  be  improper  to  prune,  their  close  back  branches  may  be  cut 
clean  away,  because  they  are  of  no  use  on  the  tree.  Cuttings  of  the 
China  and  smooth-wooded  kinds  may  be  taken  now  for  general 
propagation.  The  plants  will  be  the  better  for  losing  the  wood,  espe- 
cially all  the  dwarfs  in  pots. 

Examine  the  August-budded  plants,  and  loosen  the  ties,  if  necessary. 
Break  or  cut  off  the  wild  part  of  the  stock  above  the  bud,  all  except 
one   growing  eye^  to   keep  up   the   circulation;    remove   all   other 


CALENDAR    OF    OPERATIONS.  79 

biauclies  and  shoots.  Gather  the  "  hips,'"  or  berries,  of  any  desirable 
varieties  for  seed,  as  soon  as  ripe.  Look  to  those  roses  budded  oa 
stocks  in  pots. 

At  the  North,  all  tender  kinds,  growing  in  open  ground,  should  be 
takei;  up  and  potted,  and  hardy  roses  may  be  successfully  trans- 
planted the  last  of  this  month. 

Wobemhet. 

This  is  the  best  month  in  the  year,  if  the  weather  is  dry  and  open, 
for  planting  out  the  garden  sorts  of  rose  trees  and  bushes ;  therefore, 
all  removals  should  be  performed  as  soon  as  convenient,  according  to 
the  plan  pointed  out  in  the  foregoing  treatise.  The  leaves  of  all  the 
garden  sorts  are  falling,  or  have  fallen.  Some  of  the  perpetual?,  and 
the  China  and  hybrid  kinds,  are,  in  mild  autumns,  still  growing,  and 
perhaps  blooming.  Such  must  not  be  touched  till  the  leaves  have 
turned  yellow,  or  have  dropped  ;  but  in  all  other  cases,  where  the 
leaves  have  faded,  the  removal  is  kindly  and  beneficially  done.  Stocks 
may  be  procured  and  planted,  and  if  the  permanent  planting  cannot, 
for  any  particular  reasons,  be  done  now,  they  must  be  temporarily 
planted  or  laid  in  the  earth,  in  a  sloping  direction,  and  the  roots  well 
covered  with  mould,  which  must  also  be  well  shook  in  among  the 
roots  and  fibres.  Cuttings  may  still  be  made  of  the  smooth-wooded 
kinds,  and  placed  close  together  in  pots  of  mould,  with  half  an  inch 
thickness  of  sand  at  the  top.  These  pots  must  not  be  allowed  to  dry, 
but  may  be  put  in  a  pit  or  greenhouse,  or  plunged  under  a  hand 
glass  in  the  border,  which  will  answer  for  covering  them  well  from 
frost. 

In  all  situations  subject  to  frosts,  throw  light  litter,  as  pea  vines, 
pine  boughs,  or  straw,  over  the  beds  containing  tender  varieties,  at 
night ;  and  if  there  happen  to  be  frost,  do  not  remove  the  litter  during 
the  day.  Continue  to  gather  ripe  berries,  or  hips,  as  directed  last 
month.  Cut  out  the  weak  shoots  from  the  seedlings,  leaving  only  the 
robust  and  strong  ones  on  the  plant,  except  such  as  are  intended  for 
buds  in  the  spring. 

At  the  North,  tender  roses  should  all  be  taken  up  this  month.  Per- 
petuals  and  Bourbons,  in  the  open  ground,  if  in  a  well-drained  situa* 
tion,  with  a  httle  covering,  will  stand  'he  winter  witliout  injury. 


80 


JBecemter. 

Planting  goes  on  well  this  month,  if  the  weather  be  dry  and  open ; 
but  if  wetj  and  the  ground  does  not  work  well,  it  is  better  deferred ; 
for  if  ijlat  t:ag  is  done  when  the  soil  will  not  crumble  well,  and  go 
between  the  roots,  they  cannot  succeed.  Look  well  to  last  month's 
directions,  and  attend  to  them  in  all  respects,  if  not  done  before. 

Seed  berries,  designed  for  sowing  next  spring,  may  be  preserved 
by  patting  a  tile  at  the  bottom  of  a  flower  pot,  into  which  may  be 
put  those  hips  that  are  perfectly  ripe,  covering  them  three  or  four 
inches  with  sand,  and  let  them  remain  until  wanted ;  or  lay  them  on 
a  shelf  to  dry  out  the  moisture.  See,  also,  that  the  stocks,  which  have 
been  budded,  are  secured  to  stakes  against  the  effects  of  the  wind. 
Protect  the  smooth- wooded  kinds,  budded  on  the  stocks  in  pots,  from 
the  frost,  and  look  well  to  the  litter  on  those  in  beds. 

At  the  North,  those  roses,  taken  up  and  potted  last  month,  should 
now  be  headed  in,  cutting  away  all  small  shoots  to  one  good  eye. 
They  may  be  wintered  in  a  cold  frame,  or  taken  into  the  house,  where 
they  will  bloom  from  February  to  May. 


INSECTS. 

The  insects  which  infest  the  Rose  are  quite  numerous ;  but  as  their 
habits  are  comparatively  but  little  known,  it  has  thus  far  been  very 
difficult  to  arrest  their  ravages,  or  sensibly  diminish  their  number,  by 
artificial  means.  At  least  forty  distinct  species  are  described  by  Euro- 
pean naturalists,  but  many  of  them  do  not  exist  among  us.  The  only 
relicible  authority  on  this  subject,  in  this  country,  is  Dr.  T.  W.  Harris, 
of  Harvard  University.  From  his  "Report  on  the  Insects  Injurious 
to  "Vegetation  in  Massachusetts,"  we  copy  the  following,  which,  doubt- 
less, will  be  acceptable  to  all  who  are  not  in  possession  of  his  work : — 

The  saw  fly  of  the  Rose,  which,  as  it  does  not  seem  to  have  been 
described  before,  may  be  called  Selandria  rosce,  from  its  favorite  plant, 
so  nearly  resembles  the  slug-worm  sav^  fly  as  not  to  be  distinguished 


INSECTS.  81 

tli(;refrom  except  by  a  practised  observer.  It  is  also  very  much  like 
Selandria  barda,  vitis  and  pygmcea^  but  has  not  the  red  thorax  of  these 
three  closely-allied  species.  It  is  of  a  deep  and  shining  black  color. 
The  first  two  pairs  of  legs  are  brownish  grey  or  dirty  white,  except 
the  thighs,  which  are  almost  entirely  black.  The  hind  legs  are  black, 
with  whitish  knees.  The  wings  are  smoky  and  transparent,  with 
dark-brown  veins,  and  a  brown  spot  near  the  middle  of  the  edge  of 
the  first  pair.  The  body  of  the  male  is  a  little  more  than  three  twen- 
tieths of  an  inch  long,  that  of  the  female  one  fifth  of  an  inch  or  more, 
and  the  wings  expand  nearly  or  quite  two  fifths  of  an  inch.  These 
saw  flies  come  out  of  the  ground,  at  various  times,  between  the  twen- 
tieth of  May  and  the  middle  of  June,  during  which  period  they  pair 
and  lay  their  eggs.  The  females  do  not  fly  much,  and  may  be  seen, 
during  most  of  the  day,  resting  on  the  leaves ;  and,  when  touched, 
they  draw  up  their  legs,  and  fall  to  the  ground.  The  males  are  more 
active,  fly  from  one  rose  bush  to  another,  and  hover  around  their  slug- 
gish partners.  The  latter,  when  about  to  lay  their  eggs,  turn  a  little 
on  one  side,  unsheath  their  saws,  and  thrust  them  obUquely  into  the 
skin  of  the  leaf,  depositing  in  each  incision  thus  made  a  single  egg. 
The  young  begin  to  hatch  in  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  after  the  eggs  are 
laid.  They  may  sometimes  be  found  on  the  leaves  as  early  as  the 
first  of  June,  but  do  not  usually  appear  in  considerable  numbers  till 
the  twentieth  of  the  same  month. 

How  long  they  are  in  coming  to  maturity,  I  have  not  particularly 
observed ;  but  the  period  of  their  existence  in  the  caterpillar  state 
probably  does  not  exceed  three  weeks.  They  somewhat  resemble  the 
young  of  the  saAV  fly  in  form,  but  are  not  quite  so  convex.  They 
have  a  small,  round,  yellowish  head,  with  a  black  dot  on  each  side  of 
it,  and  are  provided  with  twenty-two  short  legs.  The  body  is  green 
above,  paler  at  the  sides,  and  yellowish  beneath ;  and  it  is  soft,  and 
almost  transparent  like  jelly.  The  skin  of  the  back  is  transversely 
wrinkled,  and  covered  with  minute  elevated  points;  and  there  are 
two  small,  triple-pointed  warts  on  the  edge  of  the  first  ring,  immedi- 
ately behind  the  head.  These  gelatinous  and  sluggish  creatures  eat 
the  upper  surface  of  the  leaf  in  large  irregular  patches,  leaving  the 
veins  and  the  skin  beneath  untouched :  and  they  are  sometimes  so 
'liick  that  not  a  leaf  on  the  bushes  is  spared  by  them,  and  the  whole 
toliage  looks  as  if  it  had  been  scorched  by  fire,  and  drops  off"  soon 
4* 


82  INSECTS. 

afterward.  They  cast  tiieir  skins  several  times,  leaving  them  extended 
and  fastened  on  the  leaves ;  after  the  last  moulting,  they  lose  their 
semi-transparent  and  greenish  color,  and  acquire  an  opaque  yellowish 
Hue.  They  then  leave  the  rose  bushes,  some  of  them  slowly  creeping 
down  the  stem,  and  others  rolling  up  and  dropping  off,  especially 
when  the  bushes  are  shaken  by  the  wind.  Having  reached  the 
ground,  they  burrow  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  or  more  in  the  earth, 
where  each  one  makes  for  itself  a  small  oval  cell,  of  grains  of  earth, 
cemented  with  a  little  gummy  silk.  Having  finished  their  transforma- 
tions, and  turned  to  flies,  within  their  cells,  they  come  out  of  the 
ground  early  in  August,  and  lay  their  eggs  for  a  second  brood  ot 
young.  These,  in  turn,  perform  their  appointed  work  of  destruction 
in  the  autumn;  they  then  go  into  the  ground,  make  their  earthen 
cells,  remain  therein  throughout  the  winter,  and  appear  in  the  winged 
form,  in  the  following  spring  and  summer. 

During  several  years  past,  these  pernicious  vermin  have  infested 
the  rose  bushes  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston,  and  have  proved  so  injurious 
to  them,  as  to  have  excited  the  attention  of  the  Massachusetts  Horti- 
cultural Society,  by  whom  a  premium  of  one  hundred  dollars,  for  the 
most  successful  mode  of  destroying  these  insects,  was  offered  in  the 
summer  of  1840.  About  ten  years  ago,  I  observed  them  in  gardens, 
in  Cambridge,  and  then  made  myself  acquainted  with  their  transforma- 
tions. At  that  time,  they  had  not  reached  Milton,  my  former  place 
of  residence,  and  have  appeared  in  that  place  only  within  two  or  three 
years.  They  now  seem  to  be  gradually  extending  in  all  directions, 
and  an  effectual  method  for  preserving  our  roses  from  their  attacks 
has  become  very  desirable  to  all  persons  who  set  any  value  on  this 
beautiful  ornament  of  our  gardens  and  shrubberies.  Showering  or 
syringing  the  bushes  with  a  liquor,  made  by  mixing  with  water  the 
juice  expressed  from  tobacco  by  tobacconists,  has  been  recommended; 
but  some  caution  is  necessary  in  making  this  mixture  of  a  proper 
strength,  for  if  too  strong,  it  is  injurious  to  plants  ;  and  the  experiment 
does  not  seem,  as  yet,  to  have  been  conducted  with  sufficient  care  to 
msure  safety  and  success. 

Dusting  lime  over  the  plants,  when  wet  with  dew,  has  been  tried 
and  found  of  some  use ;  but  this  and  all  other  remedies  will  probably 
yield  in  efficacy  to  Mr.  Haggerston's  mixture  of  whale-oil  soap  and 
watefj  in  the  proportion  of  tvo  pounds  of  the  soap  to  fifteen  gallons 


INSECTS.  83 

of  water,  f  articular  directions,  drawn  up  by  Mr.  Haggersttm  himself, 
for  the  preparation  and  use  of  this  simple  and  cheap  application,  may 
be  found  in  the  "Boston  Courier,"  for  the  twenty-fifth  of  June,  1841, 
and  also  in  mos  of  our  agrii^altural  and  horticultural  journals  of  the 
same  time.  The  utility  of  this  mixture  has  already  been  repeatedly 
mentioned  in  my  treatise,  and  it  may  be  apphed  in  other  cases  with 
advantage.  Mr.  Haggerston  finds  that  it  efiectually  destroys  many 
kinds  of  insects  ;  and  he  particularly  mentions  plant  lice  of  various 
kinds,  red  spiders,  canker  worms,  and  a  little  jumping  insect  which 
has  lately  been  found  quite  as  hurtful  to  rose  bushes  as  the  slugs  or 
young  of  the  saw  fly.  The  little  insect  alluded  to  has  been  mistaken 
for  a  species  of  tlirips,  or  vine  fretter;  it  is,  however,  a  leaf  hopper,  or 
species  of  Tettigonia,  much  smaller  than  the  leaf  hopper  of  the  grape 
vine,  {Tettigonia  vitis,)  and,  Uke  the  leaf  hopper  of  the  bean,  entirely 
cf  a  pale-green  color. 

In  treating  of  the  common  Rose  Bug,  or  Rose  Chafer,  {Melolontha 
Bubspinosa,)  Dr.  Harris  says: — 

The  natural  history  of  the  rose  chafer,  one  of  the  greatest  scourges 
with  which  our  gardens  and  nurseries  have  been  afflicted,  was  for  a 
long  time  involved  in  mystery,  but  is  at  last  fully  cleared  up.  The 
prevalence  of  this  insect  on  the  Rose,  and  its  annual  appearance  coin- 
ciding with  the  blossoming  of  that  flower,  have  gained  for  it  the  pop- 
ular name  by  which  it  is  here  known.  For  some  time  after  they  were 
first  noticed,  rose  bugs  appeared  to  be  confined  to  their  favorite,  the 
blossoms  of  the  rose;  but  within  thirty  years,  they  have  prodigiously 
increased  in  number,  have  attacked  at  random  various  kinds  of  plants 
in  swarms,  and  have  become  notorious  for  their  extensive  and  deplo- 
rable ravages.  The  grape  vine  in  particular,  the  cherry,  plum  and 
apple  trees,  have  annually  suffered  by  their  depredations  ;  many  other 
fruit  trees  and  shrubs,  garden  vegetables  and  corn,  and  even  the  trees 
of  the  forest  and  the  grass  of  the  fields,  have  been  laid  under  contri- 
bution by  these  indiscriminate  feeders,  by  which  leaves,  flowers,  and 
fruits  are  alike  consumed. 

The  unexpected  arrival  of  these  insects  in  swarms,  at  their  first 
coming,  and  their  sudden  disappearance,  at  the  close  of  their  career, 
are  remarkable  facts  in    their  history.     They  come  forth  from  the 


84  INSECTS. 

ground  during  the  second  week  in  June,  or  about  the  t.me  of  Ine 
blossoming  of  the  Damask  Rose,  and  remain  from  thirty  to  forty  days. 
At  the  end  of  this  period,  the  males  become  exhausted,  fall  to  the 
ground,  and  perish,  while  the  females  enter  the  earth,  lay  their  eggs, 
return  to  the  surface,  and,  after  hngering  a  few  days,  die  also.  The 
eggs  laid  by  each  female  are  about  thirty  in  number,  and  are  depos- 
ited from  one  to  four  inches  beneath  the  surface  of  the  soil ;  they  are 
nearly  globular,  whitish,  and  about  one  thirtieth  of  an  inch  in  diame- 
ter, and  are  hatched  twenty  days  after  they  are  laid.  The  young 
larvEB  begin  to  feed  on  such  tender  roots  as  are  within  their  reach. 
Like  other  grubs  of  the  Scarabaeians,  when  not  eating,  they  lie  upon 
the  side,  with  the  body  curved  so  that  the  head  and  tail  are  nearly  in 
contact ;  they  move  with  difficulty  on  a  level  surface,  and  are  contin- 
ually falling  over  on  one  side  or  the  other.  They  attain  their  full  size 
in  autumn,  being  then  nearly  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long,  and 
about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  They  are  of  a  yellowish- white 
color,  with  a  tinge  of  blue  towards  the  hinder  extremity,  which  is 
thick  and  obtuse  or  rounded ;  a  few  short  hairs  are  scattered  on  the 
surface  of  the  body ;  there  are  six  short  legs,  namely,  a  pair  to  each 
of  the  first  three  rings  behind  the  head ;  and  the  latter  is  covered  with 
a  horny  shell  of  a  pale  rust  color.  In  October,  they  descend  below 
the  reach  of  frost,  and  pass  the  winter  in  a  torpid  state.  In  the  spring, 
ihey  approach  toward  the  surface,  and  each  one  forms  for  itself  a  little 
cell  of  an  oval  shape,  by  turning  round  a  great  many  times,  so  as  to 
compress  the  earth  and  render  the  inside  of  the  cavity  hard  and 
smooth.  Within  this  cell,  the  grub  is  transformed  to  a  pupa, 
during  the  month  of  May,  by  casting  off  its  skin,  which  is  pushed 
downward  in  folds  from  the  head  to  the  tail.  The  pupa  has  some- 
what the  form  of  the  perfected  beetle:  but  it  is  of  a  yellowish-white 
rolor,  and  its  short  stump-like  wings,  its  antennas,  and  legs  are  folded 
upon  the  breast,  and  its  whole  body  is  inclosed  in  a  thin  film,  that 
Avraps  each  part  separately.  During  the  month  of  June,  this  filmy 
sldn  is  rent,  the  included  beetle  withdraws  from  its  body  and  its 
hmbs,  bursts  open  its  earthen  cell,  and  digs  its  way  to  the  surface  of 
the  ground.  Thus  the  various  changes,  from  the  egg  to  the  full  devel- 
opment of  the  perfected  beetle,  are  completed  within  the  spac^  of  one 
year. 

Such  being  the  metamorphoses  and  habits  of  these  insects,  it  w«Ti- 


denr  that  we  cannot  attack  them  in  the  egg,  the  grub,  nor  the  pupa 
state;  the  enemy,  in  these  stages,  is  beyond  our  reach,  and  is  subject 
to  the  eontrol  only  of  the  natural  but  unknown  means  appointed  by 
the  Author  of  Nature  to  keep  the  insect  tribes  in  check.  "When  they 
have  issued  from  tlieir  subterranean  retreats,  and  have  congregated 
upon  our  vines,  trees,  and  other  vegetable  productions,  in  the  com- 
plete enjoyment  of  their  propensities,  we  must  unite  our  efforts  to 
seize  and  crush  the  invaders.  The}-  must  indeed  be  crushed,  scalded, 
or  burned,  to  deprive  them  of  life  ;  for  they  are  not  affected  by  any  of 
the  appHcations  usually  found  destructive  to  other  insects.  Experi- 
ence has  proved  the  utility  of  gathering  them  by  hand,  or  of  shaking 
them  or  brushing  them  from  the  plants  into  tin  vessels  containing  a 
little  water.  They  should  be  collected  daily  during  the  period  of 
their  visitation,  and  should  be  committed  to  the  flames,  or  killed  by 
scalding  water.  The  late  John  Lowell,  Esq.,  states,  that  in  1823,  he 
discovered  on  a  solitary  apple  tree,  the  rose  bugs  "'  in  vast  numbers, 
such  as  could  not  be  described,  and  would  not  be  believed  if  they 
were  described,  or  at  least  none  but  an  ocular  witness  could  conceive 
of  their  numbers.  Destruction  by  hand  was  out  of  the  question"  in 
this  case.  He  put  sheets  under  the  tree,  and  shook  them  down,  and 
burned  them.  Dr.  Green,  of  Mansfield,  whose  investigations  have 
thrown  much  light  on  the  history  of  this  insect,  proposes  protecting 
plants  with  millinet,  and  says  that  in  this  way  only  did  he  succeed  in 
securing  his  grape  vines  from  depredation.  His  remarks  also  show 
the  utility  of  gathering  them.  ■'  Eighty-sis  of  these  spoilers,"  says  he, 
*•  were  known  to  infest  a  single  rose  bud,  and  were  crushed  with  one 
grasp  of  the  hand.""  Suppose,  as  was  probably  the  case,  that  one  half 
of  tliem  were  females ;  by  this  destruction,  eight  hundred  eggs,  at 
least,  were  prevented  from  becoming  matured. 

During  the  time  of  their  prevalence,  rose  bugs  are  sometimes  found 
in  immense  numbers  on  the  flowers  of  the  common  white  weed, 
or  ox-eye  daisy,  {Chri/sanihemum  leucanthemimi.)  a  worthless  plant, 
which  has  come  to  us  from  Europe,  and  has  been  suffered  to  overrun 
our  pastures,  and  encroach  on  our  mowing  lands.  In  certain  cases,  it 
may  become  expedient  rapidly  to  mow  down  the  infested  white  weed 
in  dry  pastures,  and  consume  it  with  the  sluggish  rose  bugs  on  the 
spot. 

Our  insect-eating  birds  undoubtedly  devour  many  of  these  insects. 


86  INSECTS. 

and  deserve  to  be  cherished  and  protected  for  their  services.  Rose 
bugs  are  also  eaten  greedily  by  domesticated  fowls ;  and  when  they 
become  exhausted  aad  fall  to  the  ground,  or  when  they  are  about  to 
lay  their  eggs,  they  are  destroyed  by  moles,  insects,  and  other  ani- 
mals, which  lie  in  wait  to  seize  them.  Dr.  Green  informs  us  that  a 
species  of  dragon  fly,  or  devil's  needle,  devours  them.  He  also  says 
that  an  insect  which  he  calls  the  enemy  of  the  cut  worm,  probably 
the  larva  of  a  Carabus,  or  predaceous  ground  beetle,  preys  on  the 
grubs  of  the  common  dor  bug.  In  France,  the  golden  ground  beetle, 
{Carabiis  auratus,)  devours  the  female  dor  or  chafer  at  the  moment 
when  she  is  about  to  deposit  her  eggs.  I  have  taken  one  specimen 
of  this  fine  ground  beetle  in  Massachusetts,  and  we  have  several  other 
Kinds,  equally  predacsous,  which  probably  contribute  to  check  the 
increase  of  our  native  Melolonthians. 


87 


THE    DAHLIA. 


INTRODUCTION. 

Though  severed  from  its  native  dims. 
Where  skies  are  ever  bright  and  clear, 

And  nature's  face  is  all  sublime, 
And  beauty  clothes  the  fragrant  air. 
The  Dahlia  will  each  glory  wear, 

With  tints  as  bright,  and  leaves  as  green, 

As  on  its  open  plains  are  seen. 

And  when  the  harvest  fields  are  bare, 

She  in  the  sun's  autumnal  ray, 

With  blossotas  deeks  the  brow  of  day. 

MABTm. 


BOUT  ten  years  before  the  close  of  the  last  century,  this  favor- 
ite flower  was  sent  from  Mexico  to  Spain,  and  a  few  speci- 
mens were  procured,  in  the  year  of  its  importation  to  that  country, 
from  Madrid,  by  the  then  Lady  Bute,  but  through  some  mismanage- 
ment the  species  was  lost,  until  Lady  Holland  obtained  seed  from  the 
same  city  in  1804 ;  while  in  1802,  another  species,  {Dahlia  coccinea,) 
had  been  brought  from  Mexico  through  France;  neither  the  latter 
nor  the  former,  (Dahlia  frustranea,)  seems,  however,  to  have  attracted 
much  attention  amongst  the  floricultural  world ;  and  it  was  not  until 


88  REQUISITES    OF    A    PERFECT    FLOWER. 

after  the  peace  of  1815,  that  it  became  an  object  of  professional 
care,  when  a  supply  was  obtained  in  England,  from  France,  wliere  its 
culti\  ation  had  already  been  carried  to  some  extent ;  since  which 
period,  an  indefinite  number  of  varieties  has  been  procured  by  the  per- 
severing ingenuity  of  the  florist,  and  a  monomania  for  this  flower 
existed  for  many  years  unsurpassed  in  inveteracy,  save  by  the  extra- 
ordinary "  Tuhpomania"  of  the  seventeenth  century.  This  has  in 
some  degree  subsided,  and  the  Dahha  is  taking  its  proper  rank  as  a 
deservedly  esteemed  flower,  blooming  at  a  season  of  the  year  Avhen 
the  number  of  flowering  plants  in  the  open  garden  is  very  limited. 

The  name  of  Dahha  was  given  to  it  in  honor  of  Dahl,  a  Swedish 
botanist  and  a  pupil  of  Linnaeus ;  there  was  an  attempt  to  change  it 
to  G-eorgina,  and  on  the  continent  this  has  prevailed  to  a  considerable 
extent ;  but  in  England  and  this  country,  it  has  been  entirely  rejected. 


REQUISITES    OF  A  PEBPECJT    FLOWER. 

The  following  characteristics  are  agreed  upon  by  the  London  Flori- 
cultural  Society  as  necessary  to  the  perfection  of  the  Dahha  : — 

1st.  The  general  form  should  be  that  of  about  two  thirds  of  a  sphere, 
or  globe.  The  rows  of  petals  forming  this  globe  should  describe  un- 
broken- circles,  lying  over  each  other  with  evenness  and  regularity, 
and  gradually  diminishing  until  they  approach  the  top.  The  petals 
comprising  each  succeeding  row  should  be  spirally  arranged  and  alter- 
nate, hke  the  scales  of  the  fir  cone,  thereby  concealing  the  joints  and 
making  the  circle  more  complete. 

2d.  The  petals  should  be  broad  at  the  ends,  perfectly  free  from  notch 
or  indention  of  any  kind,  firm  in  substance,  and  smooth  in  texture. 
They  should  be  bold  and  free,  and  gently  cup,  but  never  curl  or  quill, 
nor  show  the  under  sides;  they  should  be  of  uniform  size,  and  evenly 
expanded  in  each  row,  being  largest  in  the  outer  rows,  and  gradually 
and  proportionately  diminishing  until  they  approach  the  summit,  when 
they  should  gently  turn  the  reverse  way,  pointing  towards  and  form- 
mg  a  nea'  and  close  centre. 


PROPAGATION  S9 

3d.  Tlie  color  in  itself  should  be  dense  and  clear ;  if  in  an  edged 
flower,  concentrated  and  well  defined ;  and  in  both  cases  penetrating 
through  the  petal  with  an  appearance  of  substance  and  solidity. 

4th.  Size  must  be  comparative. 


PROPAGATION. 

The  Dahlia  may  br  propagated  from  tubers,  by  slips  or  cuttings,  or 
from  seed. 

Propagation  from   Seed. 

This  method  is  now  seldom  practised,  except  by  those  who  desire 
to  obtain  new  varieties  by  hybridising  between  two  distinct  species 
or  choice  varieties.  The  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  is  in  March 
or  April,  in  light  soil  in  shallow  boxes  or  pans,  which  are  placed  in  a 
moderate  hot  bed  to  promote  their  germination  ;  though  some  florists 
think  that  plants  as  vigorous,  if  not  more  so,  may  be  obtained  from 
seed  sown  in  a  warm  and  well-sheltered  border  toward  the  end  of 
April,  or  in  the  early  part  of  May,  provided  the  young  plants  are  pro- 
tected during  the  night  and  guarded  from  casual  frosts ;  or  the  seed 
may  be  sown  in  pans  in  March  in  the  house,  and  put  out  in  the  open 
air  on  mild  days,  to  accustom  them  to  the  external  atmosphere.  In 
any  treatment,  when  the  seed  leaves  are  fully  developed,  they  must  be 
allowed  plenty  of  fresh  air,  or  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  taking  care  that 
they  are  put  as  near  as  possible  to  the  glass,  to  prevent  their  being 
drawn  and  growing  lanky;  they  may  also  be  potted  singly,  or  three 
or  four  together,  as  soon  as  they  will  bear  handling.  When  they 
have  tour  leaves,  they  may  be  treated  in  every  respect  as  old  plants 
and  from  the  twentieth  of  May  to  the  middle  of  June,  they  may  be 
planted  where  it  is  intended  they  should  flower. 

Seed  Gathering. — The  seed  should  be  collected  in  Sej-  tember  from 
dwarf  plants,  where  no  preference  exists  on  other  accounts. ;  and,  when 
double  varieties  are  principally  sought  for,  from  semi-double  flowers. 
Seeds  procured  from  those  florets,  which  have  changed  their  form,  are 


90  PROPAGATION. 

supposed  to  have  a  greater  tendency  than  the  other  to  produce  plants 
with  double  flowers. 

Propagation  by  Tubers,  or  Slips,  and  by  Grafting, 

This  is  the  mode  most  commonly  adopted  for  the  propagation  of 
this  favorite  plant,  and  the  operation  is  begun  in  March  or  April,  by 
removing  the  tubers  from  the  place  where  they  have  been  deposited 
during  the  winter,  and  putting  them  in  pots,  or  in  loose  earth  on  a 
raild  hot  bed.  The  crown  of  each  tuber  is  left  uncovered  to  permit 
each  shoot  to  develop  itself,  under  the  full  influence  of  the  atmos- 
pheric air.  When  the  shoots  have  attained  the  length  of  about  three 
inches,  they  are  cautiously  separated  from  the  tuber  by  laying  hold  of 
the  slip  with  the  thumb  and  finger  near  its  base,  and  gently  moving 
it  backward  and  forward  until  it  comes  out  of  its  socket.  Mr.  Paxton 
recommends  that  where  the  shoots  are  numerous,  a  part  of  the  crown 
of  the  tuber  should  be  invariably  taken  oflf  with  the  shoot,  a  course 
more  likely  to  be  attended  with  success  than  by  extracting  the  slip. 

The  following  mode  of  increasing  choice  varieties  of  this  favorite 
flower  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Blake,  of  Kensington  Gore,  and  is  now 
commonly  practised  :•  — 

Select  a  good  tuber  of  a  single  sort,  taking  special  care  that  it  has 
no  eyes ;  then,  with  a  sharp  knife,  (for  a  dull  edge  would  mangle  tlie 
fleshy  root,  make  it  jagged,  and  so  prevent  a  complete  adhesion  of  the 
scion  and  stock,)  cut  off  a  slice  from  the  upper  part  of  the  root,  mak- 
ing at  the  bottom  of  the  part  so  cut  a  ledge  wherein  to  rest  the  graft. 
This  is  done  because  you  cannot  tongue  the  graft  as  you  would  do  a 
wood  shoot;  and  the  ledge  is  useful  in  keeping  the  cutting  fixed  in 
its  place  while  you  tie  it  Next  cut  the  scion,  (which  should  be  strong, 
short  jointed,  having  on  it  two  or  more  joints  or  buds,)  sloping  to  fit, 
and  cut  it  so  that  a  joint  may  be  at  the  bottom  of  it  to  rest  on  the 
aforesaid  ledge ;  a  union  may  be  efi'ected  without  the  ledge,  provided 
the  graft  can  be  well  fixed  to  the  tuber,  but  the  work  will  not  then 
be  so  neat.  It  is  of  advantage,  though  not  absolutely  necessary,  that 
a  joint  should  be  at  the  end  of  the  scion  ;  for  the  scion  will  occasionally 
put  forth  new  roots  from  the  lower  joint ;  the  stem  is  formed  from 
the  upper  joint ;  therefore  procure  the  cuttings  Avith  the  lower  join*<» 
as  near  togeic.er  as  possible. 


PROPAGATION.  91 

After  the  graft  has  been  tied,  a  piece  of  fine  clay,  su  Jh  as  is  used 
for  common  grafting,  must  be  placed  round  it ;  then  pot  the  root  in 
fine  mould  in  a  pot  of  such  a  size  as  will  bury  the  graft  half  way  in 
the  mould ;  place  the  pot  in  a  little  heat  in  the  front  of  a  cucumber  or 
melon  frame,  if  you  chance  to  have  one  in  work  at  the  time;  the  front 
is  to  be  preferred,  for  the  greater  convenience  of  shading  and  watering 
which  are  required.  A  striking  glass  may  be  put  over  the  graft,  or 
not,  at  pleasure.  In  about  three  weeks,  the  root  should  be  shifted 
into  a  large  pot,  if  it  be  too  soon  to  plant  it  in  the  border,  which  will 
probably  be  the  case,  as  the  plant  cannot  go  out  before  April  or  May, 
so  that  the  shifting  will  be  very  essential  to  promote  its  growth  till 
the  proper  season  of  planting  out  shall  arrive. 

Treatment  of  Slips. — The  shoots  having  been  carefully  separated  from 
their  parent  tuber,  they  are  immediately  placed  in  thumb  pots,  filled 
with  light  soil,  not  inserting  each  more  than  an  inch  deep ;  when  this 
is  done,  the  pots  are  plunged  in  the  hot  bed.  When  they  have  filled 
these  small  pots  with  roots,  they  are  shifted  into  others,  which  may 
serve  them  until  the  time  for  planting,  unless  that  be  protracted  by 
unfavorable  weather ;  in  which  contingency  it  will  be  desirable  to 
remove  them  again  into  a  size  larger,  to  allow  the  roots  to  grow  more 
freely,  and  to  prevent  their  becoming  a  close  and  compact  mass,  which 
would  be  highly  detrimental  to  their  vigorous  development,  and  the 
future  health  of  the  plant,  when  consigned  to  the  open  ground. 
Numerous  shoots  are  emitted  from  the  same  tuber  in  succession,  and 
these  are  treated  in  precisely  the  same  manner  when  arrived  at  the 
proper  length.  They  must  be  shaded  from  the  sun  while  making 
roots,  and  protected  from  vapor  and  frost.  The  best  compost  for  the 
Dahlia  in  pots  is  a  mixture  of  sifted  decayed  hotbed  dung,  light 
virgin  loam,  and  pure  white  sand,  in  equal  quantities. 

Situation  and  Preparation  of  the  Soil. 

The  natural  habitat  of  the  Dahlia  is,  we  are  informed,  in  a  rather 
hght  soil  and  on  open  plains.  English  cultivators  recommend  a  shel- 
tered situation ;  that  is,  sheltered  from  high  winds,  which  break  and 
shatter  their  lateral  branches,  however  much  they  may  be  strength- 
ened and  supported  by  stakes ;  yet  fully  exposed  to  the  sun,  and 
where  they  can  have  the  advantage  of  a  free  circulation  of  air,  the  soil 


92  TREATMENT. 

naturally  damp,  rich,  of  good  depth,  and  on  a  dry  bottom.  The  soil, 
however,  is  rarely  so  good  that  it  cannot  be  improved  for  the  purpose 
for  which  it  is  desired,  and  it  is  recommended  that  those  who  would 
grow  the  Dahlia  to  perfection  should  trench  the  ground  in  November, 
previous  to  its  being  required,  ty  first  removing  the  soil  to  the  depth 
of  twelve  inches,  and  replacing  it  with  equal  portions  of  good  yellow 
loam  and  peat  earth ;  and  then  trenching  it  again  to  the  depth  of  two 
feet,  mixing  the  original  sub-soil  an .'  the  loam  and  peat  thoroughly 
together,  with  a  large  quantity  of  staole  manure,  thoroughly  decayed, 
or  it  will  be  injurious.  This  may  seem  an  expensive  process,  but  once 
done  it  will  need  no  further  preparation  for  many  years,  except  the 
occasional  addition  of  manure. 

N.  B. — In  a  strong  clay  soil,  enriched  with  well-decayed  manure, 
the  Dahlia  produces  the  largest ^()it;ers;  in  a  light  soil,  the  plant  grows 
to  a  great  size,  but  the  flowers  are  comparatively  small 


TREATMENT. 

Those  who  hK.ve  no  hot  bed  wherein  to  start  their  DahUas  into  a 
growing  state,  may  do  so  with  equal  success,  and  may  obtain  even 
more  vigorous  and  better-blooming  plants  than  those  which  are 
excited  by  artificial  heat,  by  planting  them  in  March  or  April  in  a  box 
of  light  soil  or  decayed  leaves,  keeping  it  in  a  moist  state,  and  expos- 
ing them  to  the  full  heat  of  the  sun  throughout  the  day,  and  taking 
them  in-doors  at  night.  "When  ti^e  shoots  are  three  or  four  inches 
long,  they  may  all,  except  one,  be  taken  off  close  to  the  tuber,  and 
treated  as  slips ;  but  if  you  can  divide  the  tuber  into  as  many  pieces 
as  there  are  shoots,  it  is  to  be  preferred. 

Planting   Out. 

There  are  few  situations,  in  the  Middle  and  Northern  States,  where 
Dahlia  plants  can  be  planted  out  with  safety  before  April,  May,  or  the 
early  part  of  June.  When  the  operation  is  performed,  the  plants,  if  on 
beds  by  themselves,  which  is  desirable,  should  be  set  in  rows  not  less 


TRE^  FMENT.  93 

than  six  feet  apart  each  vr&j.  Due  regard  must  be  had  to  the  respec- 
tive heights  of  the  plants  and  the  colors  of  their  flowers ;  if  on  a  bed 
where  they  are  to  be  viewed  from  all  sides,  the  tallest-growing  kinds 
should  be  placed  in  the  centre ;  if  to  be  seen  only  from  the  front,  the 
'oftiest  must  be  set  at  the  back;  and,  in  reference  to  colors,  so  arranged 
that  they  will  produce  a  harmonious  effect  as  a  mass.  Your  plants, 
if  well  grown,  will  be  from  eighteen  inches  to  twenty-four  in  height, 
when  planted,  and  should  be  supported  by  stakes  immediately;  when 
they  are  full  two  feet  high,  the  top  of  the  leading  shoots,  or  upright 
stem,  should  be  cut  oS"  to  induce  the  plant  to  throw  out  laterals. 

It  is  a  very  common  error  to  keep  the  Dahlia  in  pots  too  small  for 
the  quantity  of  roots  the  plant  has  formed,  and  the  evil  consequences 
of  this  are  increased  in  seasons  when  it  is  most  desirable  they  should 
be  avoided ;  for  if  the  weather  be  so  unfavorable  as  to  put  off  the 
period  of  planting  out,  the  roots  have  been  meanwhile  increasing,  and 
filling  up  the  pot,  so  that  when  the  plant  is  taken  out  to  be  set  in  the 
open  ground,  the  ball  of  earth  cannot  be  removed  without  breaking 
some  of  the  fibres  ;  and,  fearful  of  doing  this,  many  persons  plant  them 
without  disturbing  it,  and  the  result  generally  is,  that  the  plant  does 
not  begin  to  grow  vigorously  until  near  the  time  when  it  ought  to  -be 
in  flower.  It  is  better,  indeed,  to  break  some  of  the  fibres,  and  get 
away  the  dried  and  baked  earth  from  around  the  roots ;  for  though  it 
seems  to  give  a  violent  check  to  the  growth  of  the  plant,  it  will,  when 
it  has  recovered,  thrive  far  better  than  those  planted  with  the  ball 
entire  ;  it  is,  however,  preferable  to  avoid  the  necessity  for  the  latter 
plan,  or  the  alternative  of  breaking  the  roots,  by  planting  them  in  pots 
of  a  larger  size  than  those  commonly  used.  The  crown  of  the  tuber 
should  be  placed  at  least  three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  in 
planting  out. 

Mulching   and  Watering. 

"When  the  plants  are  two  feet  high,  remove  the  earth  from  around 
the  base  of  the  stems  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches ;  supplying 
its  place  with  well-decomposed  manure,  which  must  be  slightly  cov- 
ered with  earth ;  in  dry  weather,  the  plants  must  be  watered  through 
this  mulching  twice  a  week  at  least,  or  every  other  day,  according  to 
the  state  of  the  weather ;  and  this  should  be  done  in  the  evening.     The 


94  AFTER    CULTURE. 

Dahlia  is  greatly  benefited  by  this  system  of  mulching  and  watering, ; 
for,  unlike  many  other  kinds  of  plants,  it  seeks  its  nourishment  chiefly 
from  the  surface  of  the  soil ;  and  its  roots  will  be  found,  in  favorable 
circumstances,  to  be  clustered  together  near  it.  Throughout  the  sum- 
mer it  is  also  advantageous  to  the  plants  to  have  the  earth  around  the 
roots  carefully  loosened  by  the  use  of  a  fork,  from  time  to  time. 


AFTER    CULTTTRB. 

Dahlias  should  never  be  pruned  until  the  bloom  buds  shovp-,  ajd 
then  but  few  branches  should  be  cut  out,  and  only  such  as  are  grow- 
ing across  others.  The  buds  should  be  thinned,  for  it  is  by  these  that 
the  strength  of  the  plant  gets  exhausted.  By  removing  all  that  are 
too  near  one  to  be  bloomed,  and  all  those  that  show  imperfections 
enough  to  prevent  them  being  useful,  much  strength  will  be  gained 
by  the  future  flowers.  So,  also,  by  pulling  ofi"  the  blooms  themselves, 
the  moment  they  are  past  perfection,  instead  of  letting  them  seed. 

AVinds  and  sun  are  both  detrimental ;  and  the  practice  of  fixing  the 
blooms  in  the  centre  of  a  flat  board,  and  covering  them  with  glass  or 
flower  pots,  as  they  may  want  light  or  shade,  is  becoming  general. 
The  more  easy  way  is  to  use  a  paper  shade  for  any  particular  fine 
bloom ;  for  however  the  flowers  may  be  coaxed  and  nursed  under 
cover,  a  stand  of  blooms,  grown  finely,  and  merely  shaded  from  the 
hottest  sun,  will  beat  all  others  in  brilliancy,  and  in  standing  carriage, 
and  keeping.  It  is  right  to  go  round  the  plants,  and,  wherever  there 
is  a  promising  bud  or  bloom,  to  take  away  all  the  leaves  and  shoots 
that  threaten  to  touch  it  as  they  grow ;  take  off  also  the  adjoining 
buds ;  and  if  the  weather  be  windy,  make  it  fast  to  a  stick  or  one  of 
the  stakes,  that  it  may  not  be  bruised  or  frayed ;  shade  it  from  the 
broiling  sun,  and  it  will  so  profit  by  the  air  and  night  dews,  as  com- 
parer" with  the  bloom  under  pots  and  glasses,  that  if  the  growth  be 
equal,  '■^le  blooming  will  be  superior.  Nevertheless  people  will  cover; 
and  where  there  is  a  disposition  to  a  hard  eye,  it  will  hardly  come  out 
perfect  unless  it  is  covered.     As  the  end  of  September  approaches,  or 


AFTER   CULTURE.  95 

as  soon  as  you  have  done  with  the  bloom,  earth  up  the  plants,  in 
order  that  when  the  frost  comes  it  may  not  reach  the  crown. 

Preserving   the    Roots. 

The  plants  may  be  raised  without  injury,  immediately  after  the 
blooms  are  cut  off  by  the  frost,  provided  that  they  are  hung  up  in  a 
dry  and  ordinarily  protected  situation,  with  the  roots  uppermost,  if  care 
is  taken  to  leave  six  or  seven  inches  of  the  stem  attached  to  each  tuber ; 
this  may  be  done  without  the  slightest  fear  of  their  withering  from 
having  been  lifted  in  a  green  state.  As  the  winter  advances,  and  the 
tubers  become  matured  and  firm,  the  ordinary  modes  of  protection 
against  frost  may  be  resorted  to. 

Treatmezit  "wlien  Flo'wering. 

When  the  buds  of  your  Dahlias  begin  to  appear,  you  must  take 
them  off  until  you  think  the  plants  have  attained  their  full  vigor,  and 
then  permit  only  every  third  bud  to  grow  to  maturity ;  by  doing  this, 
it  is  true,  you  will  not  have  so  numerous  a  show  of  flowers,  but  those 
which  you  have,  will  attain  the  highest  state  of  perfection  your  plants 
are  capable  of;  taking  into  account  their  situation  and  previous  treat- 
ment, and,  what  is  of  paramount  importance,  the  character  of  the 
season.  In  the  treatment  of  flowers  grown  for  exhibition  at  flower 
shows,  it  is  a  common  practice  to  bind  down  the  disk  of  the  flower 
towards  the  earth,  by  which,  it  is  said,  the  flowers  are  rendered  more 
perfect  in  form,  and  richer  in  color.  When  in  flower,  the  bloom  should 
be  shaded  from  the  sun,  during  the  hottest  parts  of  the  day. 

Siriped  Varieties. — The  striped  kinds  have  a  tendency  to  ''  run,"  ag 
it  is  termed,  into  self-colored  flowers,  if  not  carefully  treated,  and 
almost  invariably  do  so  when  planted  in  rich  soil ;  the  best  mode  of 
keeping  them  "  clean,"  that  is,  in  their  prime  estate  as  striped  flowers, 
is  to  plant  them  in  poor  soil. 

Autumnal  and  Winter  Treatment. 

It  is  the  practice  with  many  persons  to  take  up  their  Dahlia  roots 
as  soon  as  the  shrubs  are  cut  down  by  the  frost ;  this  is  not  desirable, 
because  if  the  tubers  are  taken  up  before  their  vital  powers  are  in  a 


yo  AFTER    CULTURE. 

quiescent  state,  they  are  more  easily  injured  by  the  dryrjss  of  the 
atmosphere  into  which  they  are  to  be  removed,  and  which  it  is  neces- 
sary they  should  be  able  to  bear  without  shrivelling;  as  in  a  moist 
atmosphere  they  are  apt  to  become  mildewed  and  mouldy ;  therefore, 
it  is  best  about  the  end  of  September  to  cover  the  stems  and  some 
distance  round  with  earth  and  littery  dung,  about  six  inches  thick,  so 
as  to  protect  the  crown  of  the  tuber  from  injury  by  the  early  frosts ; 
and  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  ground  till  November,  when  they 
must  be  taken  up  and  spread  singly  in  a  dry  open  shed  for  a  few  days, 
not  allowing  the  sun  to  shine  upon  them,  and  turned  occasionally 
during  this  period,  so  that  they  may  be  dried  gradually ;  as,  if  dried 
too  quickly,  they  shrivel,  or  too  slowly,  they  become  rotten. 

When  sufficiently  dry,  clear  away  the  earth  from  them,  and  place 
them  in  a  dry  under-ground  cellar,  where  the  frost  is  not  likely  to 
reach  them ;  and  these  should  be  examined  throughout  the  winter 
from  time  to  time,  and  if  there  be  the  least  symptom  of  damp  upon 
the  tubers,  they  should  be  carefully  wiped  with  a  dry  cloth,  and 
receive  almost  daily  attention.  Should  you  not  have  the  convenience 
of  such  a  cellar,  you  must  store  them  in  a  pit  in  the  garden,  which 
must  be  prepared  in  a  dry  spot,  and  be  of  sufficient  capacity  to  hold 
all  your  tubers.  Having  dug  the  pit,  cover  the  bottom  with  dry 
ashes,  then  pile  the  roots  thereon,  tier  upon  tier,  so  as  to  form  a  ridge ; 
then  cover  them  with  plenty  of  straw,  and  form  a  ridga  of  earth  over 
them  of  the  thickness  of  twelve  or  fourteen  inches. 


